[pkdan167]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Did you replace your thermostat?

no. forgot to order it with the water pump. it's still fine. might replace it in 7500 miles when I'm back down there for an oil change.

[koches]

Change thermostat too!

[zerocypher]

Made it to about 73k miles until I experienced the same problem as the OP. Don't have time to replace the water pump myself so going to try a local BMW mechanic.

[gos]

Mine failed at 75,017 miles. $1119.53 parts & labor at the local dealership.

pump, thermostat, screws, coolant, and shop supplies, less a small CCA discount

dealership said they always replace the thermostat at the same time, unless the customer explicitly asks them not to

[Sergio]

My 335 xdrive 2009 with 51k miles water pump failure happened on highway

My wife panicked and got car towed to closest bmw dealer

Since I have extended warranty on USA car, Canadian dealer refused to fix under warranty.

I called my USA dealer for help, and no luck

I called BMW NA. And after pushing them I got them to confirm that extended warranty can work
Across border

I need to pay bill 950$ then submit to USA dealer for refund.

Original quote was 1400$.

Just got car yesterday.

What a relief!!!

[alexei]

From what it looks like, these waterpump issues are happening in the older models on the e90. Havent heard 2010-2011 getting these issues, do you guys think it had been fixed in the later models

[wired2ten]

After reading 7 pages of unfortunate water pump failures, I don't think I can pin what's been happening to my car solely on the water pump. Here's what's been going on...

We live in Tucson and the first time we had an overheating issue was when we were driving back from California to Arizona on I-10. Got the yellow high temp light along with a low coolant indicator, followed by the red light, then the car went into limp mode. Opened the hood and the reservoir and motor cover had coolant on it. Waited 20min, opened the reservoir cap and coolant level indicator was as low as possible. Added water (didn't have coolant) and limped back home after the same course of events happened 2 more times. I chalked this up to low coolant. Drove it around the city with A/C n full blast for several hours (running errands) and never had a problem. Thought all was good, fast forward a month.

We drive to vegas w/o issues but on the way back, same events happened several times again and we got it home. Both times, the top coolant hose was hot and the heater was blowing HOT air (using this to prevent overheating when we were driving the car in between overheating episodes). Read the forum and since the car has almost 70,000 miles, I changed out the coolant myself. Water pump worked during the bleeding process. Coolant level was not low and no signs of leaks either. Dealer here is TOO $$ for me and no availability for over a month anyway so I didn't go. Now fast forward 2 months.

Weather has been over a 100 degrees F here and again in city stop and go driving with A/C on, no issues. BUT I do notice that within 5 seconds of starting the car after its been sitting overnight, the fan comes on. We head to Phoenix yesterday and within 40min, yellow light, red light, then limp mode. Reservoir wet, right front wheel well is wet and on the bottom of the passenger door. Now wondering if its time to take to dealer before engine, transmission damage occurs from all this, replace water pump/stat and or reservoir since all this high pressure had probably made it a weak link.

The functioning heater and hot rad hose lead me away from a pump failure BUT the intermittent failing episodes some have mentioned is a possibility. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[wired2ten]

Wow, didn't realize that was my first post! Guess I should say hello to everyone. Hello! This is my first BMW and have been reading through this site's threads for some time. Already had to replace the window regulator, both headlights, oil change and coolant flush. Bought the car used in the mid 60,000 mileage range. I hope to learn much from this site.

Update: Just checked the water pump via the bleed procedure after you change the coolant, and the fluid would come out of the hose very strong for about 8 seconds, then the stream would get weaker and weaker until it stopped altogether. This happened 4-5 times. Then a long pause of nothing for about 30sec w/o noise from the pump either. Then it started up again with a consistent stream for about a minute and then it stopped again. I think it is the pump unless this is normal.

[mustangivore]

Originally Posted by alexei

From what it looks like, these waterpump issues are happening in the older models on the e90. Havent heard 2010-2011 getting these issues, do you guys think it had been fixed in the later models

Mine failed today at 45K. I'm a 2011 E90.

Now I hope for a failure at another 45k before my 100k warranty!

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by wired2ten

After reading 7 pages of unfortunate water pump failures, I don't think I can pin what's been happening to my car solely on the water pump. Here's what's been going on...

We live in Tucson and the first time we had an overheating issue was when we were driving back from California to Arizona on I-10. Got the yellow high temp light along with a low coolant indicator, followed by the red light, then the car went into limp mode. Opened the hood and the reservoir and motor cover had coolant on it. Waited 20min, opened the reservoir cap and coolant level indicator was as low as possible. Added water (didn't have coolant) and limped back home after the same course of events happened 2 more times. I chalked this up to low coolant. Drove it around the city with A/C n full blast for several hours (running errands) and never had a problem. Thought all was good, fast forward a month.

We drive to vegas w/o issues but on the way back, same events happened several times again and we got it home. Both times, the top coolant hose was hot and the heater was blowing HOT air (using this to prevent overheating when we were driving the car in between overheating episodes). Read the forum and since the car has almost 70,000 miles, I changed out the coolant myself. Water pump worked during the bleeding process. Coolant level was not low and no signs of leaks either. Dealer here is TOO $$ for me and no availability for over a month anyway so I didn't go. Now fast forward 2 months.

Weather has been over a 100 degrees F here and again in city stop and go driving with A/C on, no issues. BUT I do notice that within 5 seconds of starting the car after its been sitting overnight, the fan comes on. We head to Phoenix yesterday and within 40min, yellow light, red light, then limp mode. Reservoir wet, right front wheel well is wet and on the bottom of the passenger door. Now wondering if its time to take to dealer before engine, transmission damage occurs from all this, replace water pump/stat and or reservoir since all this high pressure had probably made it a weak link.

The functioning heater and hot rad hose lead me away from a pump failure BUT the intermittent failing episodes some have mentioned is a possibility. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

It is very easy to diagnose the water pump failure. Just have the car scanned with a BMW scan tool. If the pump has been failing, codes 2E81 and possibly 2E82 will be present in the ECU. The pump fails because the electronics that control it are in the back of the pump housing and overheat. Once they cool down the pump will work again until at some point the electronics totally fail.

What you described is exactly what the conditions are once the pump fails: overheat warning and coolant all over the engine bay. There is no doubt your pump has been failing. Get it replaced.

[mike-y]

wired2ten, the pump can fail intermittently. the symptoms are exactly what you have described - it works for a while, then fails, but works again after the power is cycled. Eventually, it will fail completely, so I recommend replacing it asap.

when it fails, your coolant boils over, so that's why you keep seeing low coolant afterward.

if you can get the codes read, you'll probably see an error code that has something to do with the water pump. like water pump speed differential or similar.

[wired2ten]

Thanks guys for your input! I found an All-in-one kit with a gallon of coolant for $480.48 and free S&H @ FCPeuro.com. For $10 more, get it in 1-5 days with insurance. Time to brush up on my DIY skills.

[mike-y]

don't forget to replace the thermostat while you're at it. They are right next to each other.

[techie182]

I got quoted $1050 for pump and stat.
I can save $200 by getting them pump and stat from online.

[wired2ten]

Originally Posted by mike-y

don't forget to replace the thermostat while you're at it. They are right next to each other.

Will do. The kit I purchased comes with the stat, pump, pump screws and a gallon of coolant. Has everything you need to DIY!

[tom9984]

'08 335i sedan, happened at 66k miles. Quoted $1,200 for parts and labor in SF Bay Area.

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by tom9984

'08 335i sedan, happened at 66k miles. Quoted $1,200 for parts and labor in SF Bay Area.

dang that sucks @ only 66K miles

[Hops128i]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

It is very easy to diagnose the water pump failure. Just have the car scanned with a BMW scan tool. If the pump has been failing, codes 2E81 and possibly 2E82 will be present in the ECU. The pump fails because the electronics that control it are in the back of the pump housing and overheat. Once they cool down the pump will work again until at some point the electronics totally fail.

What you described is exactly what the conditions are once the pump fails: overheat warning and coolant all over the engine bay. There is no doubt your pump has been failing. Get it replaced.

Thanks for posting this! I've always wondered if there are signs of failure before it happens. How much time do you usually have once the codes appear?

[TSM330i]

Mine was acting up at a recent track event (I was instructing at a compeition school). I started to push my car pretty hard and fluid came out of my vented hood and then the light came on my dash!
Let it cool off and it took a 1/2 gallon of distilled water. Went out for a slow session (3x3 around the entire track) and it was no problem. Next session I had to push again and it overheated again.
My buddy owns a shop, but I still pay him for the work he does. He still has a business to run. $1016 was what I paid.
I have 65K on my car with countless track days. I can't complain at all. I've tracked my car for over 6 years with no issues at all until this last time.

[Pauloxxi]

Mine is 2007 with 70,000 miles. The cost to replace the water pump was $1000. This was not a BMW dealer.

[josh-W]

2008 335 water pump failed 50k Miles. replaced the water pump at indy shop in DFW $880(water pump+thermostat+bolts+coolant+Labor).

[Thomas Wolf]

Originally Posted by omerfar23

mine failed today.. 2008 bmw 335i with 40k miles..so pissed.

Mine failed last week. (45,000 miles) Had to have it towed, even helped them push it into the garage.. This work would have cost me $1,400 if it wasn't for my 3rd party warranty (EasyCare). I paid my $100 deductible and was on my way. Monday morning comes around and my car is dead cold. Have it towed again and the next day they pinpoint the problem. The water pump failed again, it ran continuously until my battery died, it also leaked all over my wiring. Now they are ordering additional conduits to get it to start. Since they botched the job on the first water pump and caused even more damage to my car, are there any other issues I need to really watch out for as far as Electrical damage?