[neilvan]

Originally Posted by freedomfries

Please post a follow up on the C pillar bracing. I wanted to install the same on my E90 but couldn't figure out how to mount them

I looked into it this morning; some of the interior down deadening will have to be cut to allow mounting of the plate.

Factory bolts are 2x M8x1.25 and 1x m12x1.75 thread. Ill be trying for ribbed rivnuts as holes are already drilled(cars that have it stock have nuts welded to the back side).

The holes are 1mm larger diameter than recommended for the rivnuts but its thickk metal on the chassis so i see no problem

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

There is nothing like real air tools, the electrics are OK but air is king. Problem is you don't need a "decent" compressor, you need a monster compressor with the 240v 3 phase power preferably. My breaker pops on my 13 gallon compressor when something else is running, and it has no hope of powering a impact gun for more than 10 second bursts.

Hmm.. I don't doubt your experience..

I run mine on a 4.5 gallon Dewalt Air compressor w/ no issues. I have it plugged into a 20amp Indoor/ outdoor.

No issues.

IMO - the key is :

Delivers 5 SCFM at 90 PSI so it recovers quickly after an initial tank charge

I think you probably need to have an electrician come out to the house and configure your breaker box. Not trying to be a smart ass here.

[Clammy]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

There is nothing like real air tools, the electrics are OK but air is king. Problem is you don't need a "decent" compressor, you need a monster compressor with the 240v 3 phase power preferably. My breaker pops on my 13 gallon compressor when something else is running, and it has no hope of powering a impact gun for more than 10 second bursts.

Oh, I don't know... I have an Ingersol Rand 1/2" 20V impact that produces 1100 ft-lbs of torque. Even the best Snap-On air impact doesn't come close.

I just looked, and they have a newer version, of the impact I have, that puts out 1500 ft-lbs!

Cheers!

[CTinline-six]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

There is nothing like real air tools, the electrics are OK but air is king. Problem is you don't need a "decent" compressor, you need a monster compressor with the 240v 3 phase power preferably. My breaker pops on my 13 gallon compressor when something else is running, and it has no hope of powering a impact gun for more than 10 second bursts.

Air has the ability to be more powerful with the right compressor and tools. I have a 3/4" air impact I use for Honda crank bolts, and nothing beats a good air hammer.

I love the convenience of my Harbor Freight 1/2" impact though. I can bring it to a friend's house to help them work on their cars, or out to my grandpa's property to work on a backhoe. Harder to do that with my compressor, and air hoses are constantly a pain in the ass.

[335IE90]

I have a Milwaukee Impact that that thing is an animal. Hasn't even not been able to get a bolt out. When we remodeled the house I ran a hose from the basement out to the drive way and have a hook up in the wall outside but between the noise and having to have the hose out in the way much rather use the battery powered stuff

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Hmm.. I don't doubt your experience..

I run mine on a 4.5 gallon Dewalt Air compressor w/ no issues. I have it plugged into a 20amp Indoor/ outdoor.

No issues.

IMO - the key is :

Delivers 5 SCFM at 90 PSI so it recovers quickly after an initial tank charge

I think you probably need to have an electrician come out to the house and configure your breaker box. Not trying to be a smart ass here.

Yes it's more than probable that is what I need, an electrician and a better air compressor. In the meantime it was easier to buy a electric impact wrench and TBH the old one did a large % jobs I'd need an air tool for, this new one does almost all of them plus no hose in the way. I bought air tools when I had access to a real shop and they're the best, air grinders and sanders too far superior to electric but guzzle even more air than a impact wrench. When I get my dream shop I'll be able to run them again. I'm doing my best to make my wife wish I wasn't rehabbing cars in the house garage, she's taking the hint and starting to get the permits for me from the township.

[unixnerd]

Playing with INPA today, wanted to check I had no vacuum leaks after my valve cover replacement and that seems OK.

However I'm interested in the differences in the rough running of my cylinders. I think my sticking tappet is cyl.1 so the low valve is maybe due to the valves being open for slightly less time. Car uses way too much oil (litre every 450 miles) despite a new CCV so I'm worried about worn piston rings as I've heard this is a common N52B25 issue.

[Gregrobin]

Trying owning a boat with twin 8.1s/496s big blocks crammed side by side with no room on the outsides to do anything. I am lucky if I can even get my hand on a spark plug, yet alone see it and remove it. And being 6'3"...

[Gregrobin]

Originally Posted by whyzee125

You should try owning a 4Runner. I swear there isn't a car on earth that's worse to work on than a 4Runner.

Trying owning a boat with twin 8.1s/496s big blocks crammed side by side with no room on the outsides to do anything. I am lucky if I can even get my hand on a spark plug, yet alone see it and remove it. And being 6'3"...

[YoMuS]

Originally Posted by unixnerd

Playing with INPA today, wanted to check I had no vacuum leaks after my valve cover replacement and that seems OK.

However I'm interested in the differences in the rough running of my cylinders. I think my sticking tappet is cyl.1 so the low valve is maybe due to the valves being open for slightly less time. Car uses way too much oil (litre every 450 miles) despite a new CCV so I'm worried about worn piston rings as I've heard this is a common N52B25 issue.

Hi unixnerd,

What option did you use to check for vacuum leaks? Thank you

[Clammy]

Been having rough idle, and some driveability issues lately. Got misfire codes, and a DISA code, so I bought a 6 pack of coils, and happened to have a latest revision large DISA (114) on hand.

After doing some reading, I learned that a bad DISA can cause the issues I'm having, so I decided to pull the large DISA first, and look what I found!

It's a 537, so I think that it had the plastic shaft, which is long gone... I also can't find the flap, which is concerning. I don't think it's small enough to fit down the runners... any idea where I should be looking? Do I NEED to pull the intake manifold?

HALP, please!!

Cheers!

[berniebrussee]

Put in an insurance claim for flood damage

[unixnerd]

Originally Posted by Clammy

Been having rough idle, and some driveability issues lately. Got misfire codes, and a DISA code, so I bought a 6 pack of coils, and happened to have a latest revision large DISA (114) on hand.

After doing some reading, I learned that a bad DISA can cause the issues I'm having, so I decided to pull the large DISA first, and look what I found!

It's a 537, so I think that it had the plastic shaft, which is long gone... I also can't find the flap, which is concerning. I don't think it's small enough to fit down the runners... any idea where I should be looking? Do I NEED to pull the intake manifold?

HALP, please!!

Cheers!

Sorry, if that were my car the manifold would be coming off. If you have the dual DISA manifold I'd be replacing the other DISA too. Mine was dead but hadn't thrown a code.

[unixnerd]

Originally Posted by YoMuS

Hi unixnerd,

What option did you use to check for vacuum leaks? Thank you

Just looking at those adaption values it seems OK. Good video here:

[YoMuS]

Originally Posted by unixnerd

Just looking at those adaption values it seems OK. Good video here:

Thanks a lot. He says 25 kg/h for the air mass, as a spot on value. Do you remember your measure? I'm getting 15 when the acceleration pedal is 0%.

It's a 335 though. Don't know if it's supposed to be the same in all models...

[3PedalJake]

Got the subframe out. I'm not polishing it as some ppl are betting but damn I couldn't let that grime go back in without a date with the pressure washer.
Got the oil pan out, found the source of the leak besides the crunchy dry gaskets the RR corner bolt was broken off. I turned that out with a 1/4" wood chisel and seriously I'd rather do 10 of these aluminum bolts than 1 rusted steel one, it spun right out. Other than that the lower engine looks good, ready to be sealed back up again tomorrow.

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by Clammy

Been having rough idle, and some driveability issues lately. Got misfire codes, and a DISA code, so I bought a 6 pack of coils, and happened to have a latest revision large DISA (114) on hand.

After doing some reading, I learned that a bad DISA can cause the issues I'm having, so I decided to pull the large DISA first, and look what I found!

It's a 537, so I think that it had the plastic shaft, which is long gone... I also can't find the flap, which is concerning. I don't think it's small enough to fit down the runners... any idea where I should be looking? Do I NEED to pull the intake manifold?

HALP, please!!

Cheers!

If you can't find it with a grabber pull the throttle body and look for it in the bottom. You'll have to take that off if you pull the manifold anyway.

[Clammy]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

If you can't find it with a grabber pull the throttle body and look for it in the bottom. You'll have to take that off if you pull the manifold anyway.

Thanks man. I'll do that. Hopefully, I find it without having to remove the manifold... and likely break the PCV hoses... Ugh...

Cheers!

[Mosaud1998]

Drove my car to and from work.

Got hired at Amazon as a delivery driver.

$18/hr for 3-4 days 10 hour shifts (If I deliver all my stuff before 10 hours. I still get paid for the 10 hour shift).

Can't complain. I might keep the job while I go to the 4-year university since I am planning on taking online classes. I feel like I learn better.

[freakystyly]

Take off the cabin filter shroud and just unbolt the manifold to move it ~1". You might be able to see anything resting on the valves (hopefully). I don't think you even need to remove the airbox for that... it's been a while for me tho.

[unixnerd]

Originally Posted by freakystyly

Take off the cabin filter shroud and just unbolt the manifold to move it ~1". You might be able to see anything resting on the valves (hopefully). I don't think you even need to remove the airbox for that... it's been a while for me tho.

It'll be far easier with the airbox out. Removing the manifold isn't the end of the world on these cars, unless you have the old style CCV. A wee trick I learnt about that, keep the O rings from the old hoses. They slide in so much better, the new O rings are 90% of the problem with hose fitting.

[unixnerd]

Originally Posted by YoMuS

Thanks a lot. He says 25 kg/h for the air mass, as a spot on value. Do you remember your measure? I'm getting 15 when the acceleration pedal is 0%.

It's a 335 though. Don't know if it's supposed to be the same in all models...

Darn, forgot to check that. Will do it next time it sets the catalytic converter codes and I have to reset them again.