[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by unixnerd

As I was under the car anyway I thought I'd delete the clutch delay valve. Looked a bit different to what I was expecting. Slave cylinder end had this metal fitting and I couldn't figure out how to unclip it. Any ideas guys?
Attachment 2580285

There is something like a springly c-clip that is in the channel that locks it. It may have turned into rust glob by now.

[ryan stewart]

Just mounted this bad boy. An awning. I usually carry pop-ups for track days but it will be nice when the weather is good to just roll with this, leave the bike outside and free up tons of space in the car.

Also car camping. Got the inflatable mattress for the back, some bug netting for the windows, and a nice packable chair and table set.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

The CSF all aluminum radiator is about 1/2" thicker than an OEM radiator. If you have 1.75" aftermarket inlets, in their traditional locations, the front inlet might rub against the belt & pulleys.

ahh gotcha, well I'm an n52 so the only issue intakewise I'll be having is getting the airbox back on with the ram air tube lol

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by bimmerfan1972

Apologies is this has already been asked, but what style are those wheels?

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1679614

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by Mosaud1998

Mothers CMX is a Ceramic spray.

I don't think it works as well as legit ceramic coating would.

Well, no, it won't, but it's still 10x better than wax in all but looks.

Originally Posted by Vivek.

Based on my armchair analysis it sounds like snake oil to me. Like those "liquid carnauba" waxes were years ago--I'm sure it has SOME ceramic (SiO2) in it but CQuartz claims 90%; CMX I'd imagine would be around 1% or less, seeing how even at full retail price CMX per ml costs 75x less than a true ceramic coating.

Not true. These spray-on coatings are still very good at what they do. Been using them fro 5+ years. Will never go back.

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

might be a bit, but the project Farm youtube channel said otherwise.

What Ive learned with those product on a black car (mcguire ceramic spray) :
- same awesome shine than a wax, and takes 6x less time to apply. (I was using the famous Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax, ultra wet look))
- cheap ( cost me 20$ a bottle )
- bottle last for 2-3 summers @1 wash a week.
- Less stain after a rain

Yes, yes, yassssssss.

[Gregrobin]

Wiped her down, and drove her...are we allowed to just, drive them? ;-)

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

ahh gotcha, well I'm an n52 so the only issue intakewise I'll be having is getting the airbox back on with the ram air tube lol

The only draw back is that it will take longer to warmup up the cabin in the winter. If you live in a state where winter isn't a factor, then that point is moot.

[ryan stewart]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

ahh gotcha, well I'm an n52 so the only issue intakewise I'll be having is getting the airbox back on with the ram air tube lol

Just replace it with a burrito, far more flexible.

[Sav.]

Originally Posted by ryan stewart

Just replace it with a burrito, far more flexible.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

The only draw back is that it will take longer to warmup up the cabin in the winter. If you live in a state where winter isn't a factor, then that point is moot.

Whatever you do don't look at my username

[CTinline-six]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

The only draw back is that it will take longer to warmup up the cabin in the winter. If you live in a state where winter isn't a factor, then that point is moot.

Wouldn't the thermostat make it so the radiator capacity wouldn't influence warm up time? I've done several radiator upgrades on other vehicles and never had an increase in warm up time living in New England.

[ryan stewart]

I could be wrong on how the system works but it looks like on our systems the rad and heater are on the same "side" of the stat, so the stat only cares about protecting the engine and will let you freeze to death if the engine cant get hot enough.

[2one3E90]

Originally Posted by Mosaud1998

The only F30 I drove was a 320 that a customer traded in for a 2020 Kia Telluride when I worked at a Kia dealership.

God, that 320 drove like shit. The engine was loud too

It was a base 3 series. No power seats or anything. Color was Alpine white.

I would do turbo back straight pipe. Ohlins Coilovers and strip it. Make it into a track beater if i had it

[E92_William]

Originally Posted by neilvan

^^ The stock N54 oil cooler starts opening between 100 and 110*C (230F?). In spring/summer/fall Ill manage to get there after 10-15 mins of normal driving even highway. Winter a bit longer but it'll still see it.

A worth while upgrade but the N52 oil/water cooler is a better in between if you're not doing too much hard driving

Good to know, at 230 it does seem to be more worthwhile doing on an N52. I'm in a back and forth between that oil to water cooler that came in the 530s and such and the oil to air from the N54. Faster oil warm up times sound good to me even if not much needed here in the south. Too bad I only have the parts needed for the N54 style cooler so would have to go parts hunting again for the other style if I decided to go with that. I drive it fast but don't redline the thing every shift or anything like that.

[neilvan]

Originally Posted by E92_William

Good to know, at 230 it does seem to be more worthwhile doing on an N52. I'm in a back and forth between that oil to water cooler that came in the 530s and such and the oil to air from the N54. Faster oil warm up times sound good to me even if not much needed here in the south. Too bad I only have the parts needed for the N54 style cooler so would have to go parts hunting again for the other style if I decided to go with that. I drive it fast but don't redline the thing every shift or anything like that.

Any N52 E60 should have the oil/water cooler (as did some E90s in europe). If you're auto then its a super easy install; If manual you need the waterpipe that mounts to the block(it has the extra feed).

The N54 one is of course way better for keeping temps down but the N52 is that easier middle ground; more of a regulator then a cooler per se.

[Vivek.]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Well, no, it won't, but it's still 10x better than wax in all but looks.



Not true. These spray-on coatings are still very good at what they do. Been using them fro 5+ years. Will never go back.



Yes, yes, yassssssss.

Good to know, I didn't even know that spray on ceramic coatings have been out for 5+ years. What's your favorite? I may have to give it a shot.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by Vivek.

Good to know, I didn't even know that spray on ceramic coatings have been out for 5+ years. What's your favorite? I may have to give it a shot.

I like Car Pro Reload, personally. They claim >5% SiO2.

You can't go wrong with that or Gyeon either, tho.

I've also found that if you do an actual coating then adding Reload on top really brings out the shine.

My routine is ceramic coat every 3ish years then Reload to top it up every 6 months. Super easy and this is for a car that sits outside 100%.

[Vivek.]

Originally Posted by tlow98

I like Car Pro Reload, personally. They claim >5% SiO2.

You can't go wrong with that or Gyeon either, tho.

I've also found that if you do an actual coating then adding Reload on top really brings out the shine.

My routine is ceramic coat every 3ish years then Reload to top it up every 6 months. Super easy and this is for a car that sits outside 100%.

Is your recommendation based on the use case of applying it to unprotected paint as well as using it on top of a ceramic coating?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by ryan stewart

I could be wrong on how the system works but it looks like on our systems the rad and heater are on the same "side" of the stat, so the stat only cares about protecting the engine and will let you freeze to death if the engine cant get hot enough.

One of things I have heard about CSF radiators is that the coolant will run about 25 degrees cooler on average. It's basically made for track use.

[3PedalJake]

Had one small setback with my 3SI install on the 325i, leaving it here with some keywords. This pertains to the old style CCV system mounted under the manifold, you wouldn't have this issue with the plastic VC engines. When you're installing the manifold and lowering the drain hose into position to the oil pan tube be careful you have the hose and the heater wire routed correctly. I had my hose on the wrong side of the main power wire and also apparently didn't get it snapped securely onto the oil separator and at some point during the install unbeknownst to me and long after I had access to that area, probably while putting the cables back on their brackets it popped the hose off the bottom of the separator. This is the single most inaccessible spot on the entire car, I did manage to snake my arm up there and would have been able to slip the hose to the other side of the cable, but the wire was wrapped around it and there was no way to get that to the other side without unplugging it, almost impossible even with the manifold out. I had to do a partial uninstall of the manifold, enough to get in from the top and switch the wire, then back underneath to reach up again and pop the hose back on.

The symptoms of this if you ever experience them are an error code DME Air Mass System 2D06, accompanied by a startup idle that shoots up, then falls off to the point it almost stalls, then runs raggedy with fluctuating RPMs, possibly throwing an additional DME combustion misfire codes and the telltale sign, a gurgling sound like a backed up sink trying to drain coming from the oil separator area under the rear of the manifold.

Anyhoo, all back together and got it aligned, took it for a short test drive as I still have to put tags on it. Butt dyno says the 3SI and 330i tune is a success, it runs like a r4ped 4pe now

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by E92_William

Good to know, at 230 it does seem to be more worthwhile doing on an N52. I'm in a back and forth between that oil to water cooler that came in the 530s and such and the oil to air from the N54. Faster oil warm up times sound good to me even if not much needed here in the south. Too bad I only have the parts needed for the N54 style cooler so would have to go parts hunting again for the other style if I decided to go with that. I drive it fast but don't redline the thing every shift or anything like that.

I think for mostly dailying the water/oil cooler would be an ideal route. If you're tracking it or seeing the highway a lot in Arizona or something then air/oil would be your best bet for that

[nsjames]

well since we're all into detailing now.
I bought a foam cannon and fancy soap.
I'm impressed. I also like the little stubby wand. Can really get up into things at all the angles.

looks like all my maintenance washing just became mostly touchless.