[The Nightman]

Just curious if anyone else has flashed their N52 themselves using the Bimmerlabs batch files? I'm paranoid I'll brick my car!

I installed WinKFP with v63 Daten files as part of BMW Standard Tools 2.12 from here: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1204192

Then I followed this to set up WinKFP: https://www.bimmerlabs.com/help

I'll be using BimmerGeeks Pro-K+Dcan cable: https://www.bimmergeeks.net/product-...eeks-pro-cable

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by freedomfries

Just curious if anyone else has flashed their N52 themselves using the Bimmerlabs batch files? I'm paranoid I'll brick my car!

I installed WinKFP with v63 Daten files as part of BMW Standard Tools 2.12 from here: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1204192

Then I followed this to set up WinKFP: https://www.bimmerlabs.com/help

I'll be using BimmerGeeks Pro-K+Dcan cable: https://www.bimmergeeks.net/product-...eeks-pro-cable

Yes, I did. Several times. Tried to make it fail as part of the testing.

If you have a good PC and set up, it's a pretty safe system. Probably safer than most of the flashing tools available from custom tuners. It uses the same software as the Dealers did a few years ago.

I would test your cable and PC by running INPA and just generally reading a few things. Kind of fun running through the DME pages anyways. You would be amazed at what you can see. Just stick to reading and not running any tests until you know your way around.

If you don't run into connection problems running standard INPA scripts you should be safe.

If something goes wrong, don't panic. Take notes, screen captures and ask for help.

The DME is actually very very hard to brick with an ODB cable and standard BMW tools. The old horror stores were created before good information was made public. Don't ask me how I know.

[The Nightman]

Originally Posted by rjahl

Yes, I did. Several times. Tried to make it fail as part of the testing.

If you have a good PC and set up, it's a pretty safe system. Probably safer than most of the flashing tools available from custom tuners. It uses the same software as the Dealers did a few years ago.

I would test your cable and PC by running INPA and just generally reading a few things. Kind of fun running through the DME pages anyways. You would be amazed at what you can see. Just stick to reading and not running any tests until you know your way around.

If you don't run into connection problems running standard INPA scripts you should be safe.

If something goes wrong, don't panic. Take notes, screen captures and ask for help.

The DME is actually very very hard to brick with an ODB cable and standard BMW tools. The old horror stores were created before good information was made public. Don't ask me how I know.

Thanks for the feedback! I previously had an eBay cable and a messy install with a bunch of other diagnostic software and cable drivers for my prior vehicles. It worked for reading/clearing faults with INPA but I wanted to do it "right" for this flash, so I did a clean install of Windows (64 bit Win7) and BMW Standard tools and ditched the eBay cable for a BimmerGeeks one. My only concern is that I'm using an old netbook from university with a pathetic SU2700...

I have a 10A charger that I was planning to hook up for the flash. Are there any other precautions I should take?

[hassmaschine]

I flash everything with a 15 year old IBM laptop (I got it NIB a few years ago) - single core 1ghz P4. You don't need a lot of power.

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by freedomfries

have a 10A charger that I was planning to hook up for the flash. Are there any other precautions I should take?

10 amp charger is not enough for a long flash but fortunately these flashes should not take that long. Make sure your AC fans,lights etc are turned off.

The winfkp trace levels need to be set to zero for a quick flash. I think that’s default.

Also make sure your laptop will not hibernate or sleep during the flash.

Like Hassmacine mentioned, you don’t need a powerful laptop. Just make sure it’s running clean.

[The-Traveler]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

A little - maybe 15bhp. Best bet is a 3 stage manifold.

330 comes with that, and 255 tune out of the factory.
How do I obtain more, for a reasonable price?

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by The-Traveler

330 comes with that, and 255 tune out of the factory.
How do I obtain more, for a reasonable price?

Get a tune.

[PD330]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

You can flash it but it will run in limp mode.

I'll try in the next week to look at those files.

Sorry, my post was a bit confusing. Of course I need to set powerclass in DME/CAS before flashing. Thats why I was asking for the modified software, without the 10h limit.

All I wanted to say is that I'm not 100% sure the written ZB# is really correct, so I would need to give it a try and see if its running correctly.

Thanks for the help so far and that you'll have a look to the files, really appreciate that!

[hassmaschine]

I don't know if we have a mod that resets TRT on MSV80. It's easier to just change it in the parameters, because you have to modify the boot sector anyway in order to make the TRT bypass change, so you may as well be able to write tunes without requiring an RSA sig check..

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by The-Traveler

330 comes with that, and 255 tune out of the factory.
How do I obtain more, for a reasonable price?

I was actually thinking of putting up a '330si' tune - sort of a "factory" 265bhp tune for my 330i brothers.

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

I was actually thinking of putting up a '330si' tune - sort of a "factory" 265bhp tune for my 330i brothers.

If you cave in, I'll do a Light version of the ZF tune for any one interested.

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by Rickyshucks

Trying to locate the tune file or even sign up page for bimmerlabs and I am having no luck. I must be blind or dumb.. maybe both

You have to register, add your car as a project and follow instructions from there.

[The-Traveler]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

I was actually thinking of putting up a '330si' tune - sort of a "factory" 265bhp tune for my 330i brothers.

Yes please! And no soft redline nonsense!
Pleaaaaaseeee!

[Rickyshucks]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

You have to register, add your car as a project and follow instructions from there.

Thanks, I am going to try flashing it tomorrow.

I've registered and one thing I noticed is the 'RSA delete' file. I was just curious as to what that is, and if I should include that or only the 325i to 330i flash.

[Blueeyesredpanda]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

I was actually thinking of putting up a '330si' tune - sort of a "factory" 265bhp tune for my 330i brothers.

Is it possible to flash your future 30si tune to a 28 with 3IM?

[hassmaschine]

No, basically that's one of the reasons I require registration (and to create a car-specific project) rather than just posting download links.

Each car (1 series, Z, 3, 5, etc) all have important differences in calibrations - even for the same engine and DME. So you cant just use the tune from a Z4 3.0si on say, a 328i or even a 330i.

Each tune is tailored to each specific chassis (and if neccesary, region). The software we have developed makes it easier to see all these differences.

For example, the Z4 uses CAN11h for the CAN network - while all E90s use BN2000. So while I could physically flash a Z4 file to any other chassis, it wouldn't work because in this case none of the CAN modules would function properly.

[bmwcar]

Originally Posted by rjahl

10 amp charger is not enough for a long flash but fortunately these flashes should not take that long. Make sure your AC fans,lights etc are turned off.

The winfkp trace levels need to be set to zero for a quick flash. I think that’s default.

Also make sure your laptop will not hibernate or sleep during the flash.

Like Hassmacine mentioned, you don’t need a powerful laptop. Just make sure it’s running clean.

for my 125i even 30A charger can't hold voltage, with 40A I can hold it up to 12.8V. Best to use jump car wires to another car that is running, then I have 13.8v all the time.

[PD330]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

I don't know if we have a mod that resets TRT on MSV80. It's easier to just change it in the parameters, because you have to modify the boot sector anyway in order to make the TRT bypass change, so you may as well be able to write tunes without requiring an RSA sig check..

Sure, that would be the other way. I also tried to find the powerclass in data section but with no success yet so I thought the other way could be easier, but both is fine for me.

I think it was only a typo, but dme is MSD81, not MSV80

[hassmaschine]

the boot code is pretty much the same, but yeah.

Anyway, it still makes sense to just bypass the RSA since you have to do it anyway. Finding the powerclass byte shouldn't be hard. Then you can modify other parts of the tune if you wish..

[The Nightman]

Originally Posted by bmwcar

for my 125i even 30A charger can't hold voltage, with 40A I can hold it up to 12.8V. Best to use jump car wires to another car that is running, then I have 13.8v all the time.

I had my 6A charger connected and it only held 12.2v while I was poking around INPA with everything off (except angel eyes and rear lights)

[hassmaschine]

you really don't need a charger for this flash. On MSV80, the whole thing takes like 15 minutes. If your battery can't hold for that long, you probably need a new one. If you have one, sure, put it on - but I wouldn't sweat it too much.

it also helps if you turn stuff off - fans, lights, radio, etc.

[The Nightman]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

you really don't need a charger for this flash. On MSV80, the whole thing takes like 15 minutes.

Good to know!

Also read through this thread in its entirety. Hard to believe this all began with a "I couldn't resist." Great work