[tony176000]

I can't face another hour of this thread searching for the particular that I am talking about, but I distincly recall that there is a "fourth" option to what has been discussed.
1. Bleed down (BS)
2. Lifter replacement (usually BS)
3. Head Replacement (sometimes BS)
4. Re-re-designed lifter replacement (which is supposed to be the better option as they work with the original head, or address the fundamental issue which was not actually the head, or something along these lines).

SO...does anyone have the patience to find that post?? I suppose I will at some point, but is the fourth option a myth, anyone heard about this as I think i have??
They have the car now, but son of B This is an effing BMW!!! May I remind everyone (ESPECIALLY BMW) what these things cost, as well as the whole Bavarian MOTOR works bit....c'mon. Figure it out or you are chasing me back to the Japanese for life!!!

[babybeast3]

Originally Posted by tony176000

Sorry this is
Not to be rude, but most people with a luxury vehicle who are under the age of 25 are, in fact, fools. Hope not you, man! If you earn it, it takes on a whole new meaning. Expensive gifts are often lifelong handicaps in disguise.

Why not try going to the dealer or figuring it out yourself, Tony? After all we're a bunch of rich young fools. What could we know?

[FlowState]

Originally Posted by tony176000

Sorry this is
Not to be rude, but most people with a luxury vehicle who are under the age of 25 are, in fact, fools. Hope not you, man! If you earn it, it takes on a whole new meaning. Expensive gifts are often lifelong handicaps in disguise.

Hah I understand what you're saying, but don't generalize to everyone man lol. I traded in the 8th gen civic I used to have - payed for by working at a f*ckin Jewel Osco for 3 years / trading in my first $4,000 car. $400 a month can go a long way if you know how to save money. Knowing full and well that I was eventually going to get a BMW and years of saving I believe I've earned it. Most of the guys that are under 25 that didn't purchase their BMW (in one form or another) and instead got it from their parents, are indeed idiots. But what you just did, is exactly what the dealer will do to me. I know its not fair, but I can't do anything about how idiotic my demographic chooses to be. So far, I've defied the stereotype and plan on keeping it that way. With my age group - its guilty until proven innocent.

[DL]

Originally Posted by tony176000

I can't face another hour of this thread searching for the particular that I am talking about, but I distincly recall that there is a "fourth" option to what has been discussed.
1. Bleed down (BS)
2. Lifter replacement (usually BS)
3. Head Replacement (sometimes BS)
4. Re-re-designed lifter replacement (which is supposed to be the better option as they work with the original head, or address the fundamental issue which was not actually the head, or something along these lines).

SO...does anyone have the patience to find that post?? I suppose I will at some point, but is the fourth option a myth, anyone heard about this as I think i have??
They have the car now, but son of B This is an effing BMW!!! May I remind everyone (ESPECIALLY BMW) what these things cost, as well as the whole Bavarian MOTOR works bit....c'mon. Figure it out or you are chasing me back to the Japanese for life!!!

I have had the re-designed lifters installed in October 2010 which bleed down at a slower rate. The SA told me this, and I have read this also. That did not work as the noise came back in a couple of weeks. If there is a new re-re-designed lifter it would have had to come out within the last three months. Actually less, since I have been in contact with the SA and did he not give me any new procedures. The SA is waiting for the field rep. to discuss my engine at this time.

I do not recall a number 4 solution on this thread or anywhere else for that matter. If anyone else has heard of a number 4 solution I would love to see it myself. The last step based on the latest posts is still a new cylinder head provided you can get BMW to do it.

[tony176000]

Originally Posted by DUI Elite

With my age group - its guilty until proven innocent.

No, it should always be innocent until proven guilty so my bad for being a smart azz earlier.

Anyway, I probably dreamed the 4th option.

Outta warranty in a few months, and the valve fix is what is probably happening in the coming hours.

Somehow, this icon is mocking me right now -->

[alarroyo]

Go for the re-engineered cylinder head and get it replaced. That is what i did.

[tony176000]

Originally Posted by babybeast3

Why not try going to the dealer or figuring it out yourself, Tony? After all we're a bunch of rich young fools. What could we know?

With a snarky attitude like that, you do seem to fit the category quite well...
Don't be a jerk, we can all fire back on this forum. I already apologized for the generalization, but you must have fallen asleep before your mommy finished your forum bed-time story and got to that post.

Besides, my valvetrain is figured, and so is this: rich brats who GET stuff don't understand what it took to actually earn it, those who worked for it do. DUI Elite made his case for the latter and I apologized.

You--not so much...

[babybeast3]

Originally Posted by alarroyo

Go for the re-engineered cylinder head and get it replaced. That is what i did.

Yes, I'm no expert on this issue, but I thought it was typical for BMW to flush, then replace the HVL, then finally replace the heads. The heads have the oil channels in them that oil the HVL. These were small in the poor-design, making the HVL tick due to not being full of oil, but I assume, there is still oil on the outside lubricating their function. Replacing the heads is the only sure fix as it uses the newer designed heads that fix the oiling issue, keeping the HVL covered or filled better with oil. There is no need, apparently, for the HVL to actually be full of oil, except they make less noise as they move through their cycle.


That's my understanding. Makes me wonder if different oil vis would effect this issue differently.

[tony176000]

Originally Posted by babybeast3

Makes me wonder if different oil vis would effect this issue differently.

Big thread by some obsessed surgeon guy on here. Major oil vis discussions. IDK, it seems to be an excuse for a poor mechanical design....I just don't know, too much info at this point, and no long term answers coming until the 06 07 08 09 10 MY get to be 100k+ mileage and we see what is really going to happen... sigh.

[FlowState]

Originally Posted by babybeast3

Yes, I'm no expert on this issue, but I thought it was typical for BMW to flush, then replace the HVL, then finally replace the heads. The heads have the oil channels in them that oil the HVL. These were small in the poor-design, making the HVL tick due to not being full of oil, but I assume, there is still oil on the outside lubricating their function. Replacing the heads is the only sure fix as it uses the newer designed heads that fix the oiling issue, keeping the HVL covered or filled better with oil. There is no need, apparently, for the HVL to actually be full of oil, except they make less noise as they move through their cycle.


That's my understanding. Makes me wonder if different oil vis would effect this issue differently.

But why does the symptom go away if you drive the car on longer trips? From what I understand / and experienced, the ticking usually only shows up when the car has been seeing short trips. mine hasn't ticked in awhile cuz i'm avoiding shorter trips.

Originally Posted by tony176000

Big thread by some obsessed surgeon guy on here. Major oil vis discussions. IDK, it seems to be an excuse for a poor mechanical design....I just don't know, too much info at this point, and no long term answers coming until the 06 07 08 09 10 MY get to be 100k+ mileage and we see what is really going to happen... sigh.

sounds like it..Dealer told the previous owner that it was a perfectly normal sound, "it doesn't affect the life of the engine", so we'll see how truthful this dealer claims to be. I'm kinda curious about the Oil Weight theory though..

[DL]

Originally Posted by DUI Elite

But why does the symptom go away if you drive the car on longer trips? From what I understand / and experienced, the ticking usually only shows up when the car has been seeing short trips. mine hasn't ticked in awhile cuz i'm avoiding shorter trips.

If the vehicle is driven on longer trips the engine gets to normal operating temperatures, thus the oil can circulate with more ease and fill the lifters. As the N52s problem is poor oil circulation, the short trips expose the design flaw. This is why BMW’s first “fix” was the bleeding procedure.

[DL]

A good link found by Blah937. A quick one page link.

http://www.rtsauto.com/bmw-e90-valve...ter-ticknoise/

[babybeast3]

I wasn't saying "just change your oil vis and forget about it". I was saying, if you don't want to deal with fixing it because you don't worry about the car that much or for whatever reason, then maybe just a different oil vis would help enough to not be reminded about it as much.. I doubt it will make much difference. Especially at temp.

I wonder too if the 6MT has less of this because I think it probably has a lot to do with sustained higher RPM's "filling" the HVL (on long trips). 6MT's would no doubt see higher revs as every AT I've driven puts you in a lower gear ASAP, and lower than if it were a MT and I was driving... I just started our 30K mile 6MT at 10 degrees, after sitting for a day. It was quiet. I think the high revs it sees may have something to do with it.

PS, Tony, you don't like youngsters or surgeons. Anyone you do like? Let me guess. Firefighters. ; )

[tony176000]

Originally Posted by babybeast3

I wasn't saying "just change your oil vis and forget about it". I was saying, if you don't want to deal with fixing it because you don't worry about the car that much or for whatever reason, then maybe just a different oil vis would help enough to not be reminded about it as much.. I doubt it will make much difference. Especially at temp.

I wonder too if the 6MT has less of this because I think it probably has a lot to do with sustained higher RPM's "filling" the HVL (on long trips). 6MT's would no doubt see higher revs as every AT I've driven puts you in a lower gear ASAP, and lower than if it were a MT and I was driving... I just started our 30K mile 6MT at 10 degrees, after sitting for a day. It was quiet. I think the high revs it sees may have something to do with it.

PS, Tony, you don't like youngsters or surgeons. Anyone you do like? Let me guess. Firefighters. ; )

Ya, I am agreeing with your oil points. I was just saying that some people (that's not an accusation) like to hook onto the oil bandwagon and claim that OCI are responsible for everything from engine wear and tear to Virgin Mary sitings across the globe.
BMW does use rather long OCIs, and with this issue the possible bad outcomes could be worse considering it is an oil-related issue. I think BMW already recommends a pretty thin oil as is (5-30, 0-30?, synthetic).

I never said or even implied I don't like surgeons (the guy called himself obessesed), or "youngsters" (yikes, who uses that word these days). In fact, from this forum, I have established that I don't like a single demographic, defined as anyone under the age of 25 who has expensive toys thay they did not themselves earn and pay for, or, rich snot-nosed brats. Firefighters, sure. Flamethrowers...sometimes!

UPDATE:
Picked up the 328 after 4.5 days of work to replace the HVLs. SA stated that there is some ticking to be expected for a few hundred miles after this procedure. If this doesn't work, its the head replacement. He said that the HVL replacement procedure seems to work on 90% of the cases he has seen. Although I would like to believe this, I am not certain. SO FAR, no ticking, but a sort of duller thumping sound at start up. I don't know what that is or means. It is slower than the tick, but regular with the speed of the motor. It is definietely NOT doing the tick we are all talking about though. Time will tell. Warranty up on April 11th, so I have 2.5 months to see if this works...

[integrale4wd]

I had the head replaced almost two years ago. When it's cold out and when I start the car in the morning I hear the valve ticking inside the cabin at low speeds. It goes away after driving for 5 minutes. But m confused did they come out with the new head then a new lifter design? Or did they do both at the same time? I'm planning on going again and the dealership is driving me nuts

[dioxin]

Originally Posted by integrale4wd

I had the head replaced almost two years ago. When it's cold out and when I start the car in the morning I hear the valve ticking inside the cabin at low speeds. It goes away after driving for 5 minutes. But m confused did they come out with the new head then a new lifter design? Or did they do both at the same time? I'm planning on going again and the dealership is driving me nuts

Did they change the lifters when they did the head replacement?
Part # for the newly designed Hydraulic Valve Lifter (HVA) is: 11 33 7 605 330.

[integrale4wd]

Originally Posted by dioxin

Did they change the lifters when they did the head replacement?
Part # for the newly designed Hydraulic Valve Lifter (HVA) is: 11 33 7 605 330.

Is there a way of finding out from the dealer? Would it be on the original work order?

[integrale4wd]

Originally Posted by dioxin

Did they change the lifters when they did the head replacement?
Part # for the newly designed Hydraulic Valve Lifter (HVA) is: 11 33 7 605 330.

Also if they haven't updated the lifters do they have replace them?

[dioxin]

Any parts changed should be listed in the work summary that the dealer gave you after each service. The service bullentin that specifies HVA replacement was issued in Sept 2009, but new HVA should have been rolled out earlier than that. When did you get yours replaced?

[virk007]

I have the ticking noise when idling for 10-15 minutes, very faintly. Today i turned on my car and the ticking noise was very louddddddd, after i drove it, then it calmed down. This is the first time this has happened to me, is it damaging my car?

[integrale4wd]

Originally Posted by dioxin

Any parts changed should be listed in the work summary that the dealer gave you after each service. The service bullentin that specifies HVA replacement was issued in Sept 2009, but new HVA should have been rolled out earlier than that. When did you get yours replaced?

Thank you I will be checking today

[integrale4wd]

Originally Posted by integrale4wd

Thank you I will be checking today

I found out that the head was replaced in February of 2009