[chinko]

Originally Posted by BrokenVert

Again spit is the master. It cleans the hoses really well, too.

Still sounds kinky

[mg4734]

just came back to see this thread, I like the direction it's headed. I finally was able to grab the nipple and slip the new hose in for the front turbo. should've removed the vacuum canister bracket but I just bent it a bit and shoved my arm in.

[chinko]

Did some interior cleaning and finally ran out of time to do all the vacuum hoses. Only had time to do the 2 near the oil cooler. Immediately solved my >5k rpm engine malfunction and power was back! Wooh, feels good. Will do the rest in spring, dont have a garage.

[Acekid187]

Originally Posted by buster84

I found this. Its helpfull, but not as good as some pictures with some editing in paint to show the lines better in color lol. (its Attached)



Are those lines good enough in the high temp area's where the turbo chargers are? Or would i need different lines for that area?



Dam, the dealer wants that much for vacuum lines?? Talk about a rip off. I was planning to use Silicone ones, but maybe I'll just replace them with the Dayco ones as well since im replacing my coils tomorrow i might as well do the lines at the same time. To bad shops don't sell silicone locally.

Your pictures would be extra helpful

To replace #5 and #6 the hard lines. Can u do that with a soft silicone 3.5mm line. Or do I need to get replacement hards lines due to heat. It's rhe ones that go over the valve cover

[TrollToll]

Originally Posted by Acekid187

To replace #5 and #6 the hard lines. Can u do that with a soft silicone 3.5mm line. Or do I need to get replacement hards lines due to heat. It's rhe ones that go over the valve cover

The silicone will hold up to that heat just fine. It's much hotter on the wastegate actuators and they don't have problems there. You can replace the plastic lines if you really need to.

[remixsecret]

Originally Posted by Glopez5

I just ordered 16 feet of Verocious Silicone Vacuum Hose, Platinum. Can't wait to change em out I currently have 125k and I replaced one of the vacuum pumps and noticed the line was completely dry rotted. Hoping that my wastegate rattle could be related. Although, i'm not getting any boost leak codes.

Did this fix your waste gate rattle?

[skys the limit]

for the front solenoid, use a inspection mirror with a light and you will see where the line needs to go. Once you know exactly where it needs to go in, it's way easier. still havent been able to do the rear one :/

[FL335]

Originally Posted by skys the limit

for the front solenoid, use a inspection mirror with a light and you will see where the line needs to go. Once you know exactly where it needs to go in, it's way easier. still havent been able to do the rear one :/

For me, the front was harder than the rear. Patience and you will get it. This goes w/o saying but make sure the engine is cold.

[nukezero]

I did every single vacuum line from the vacuum pump all the way to the turbo solenoids. I have not done both lines from solenoids to turbos. Does anyone know what is the safest way to remove it. Do you just pull on it as hard as you can? What if it breaks leaving a tip on the nipple?

So far, I've been carefully cutting all of them with a blade and carefully separating it. With little room and visibility at the turbos, I might not be able to cut it.

By the way, the replacement of all the vacuum hoses made my wastegate rattle like MAD! Even louder during de-acceleration.

[TrollToll]

Originally Posted by nukezero

I did every single vacuum line from the vacuum pump all the way to the turbo solenoids. I have not done both lines from solenoids to turbos. Does anyone know what is the safest way to remove it. Do you just pull on it as hard as you can? What if it breaks leaving a tip on the nipple?

So far, I've been carefully cutting all of them with a blade and carefully separating it. With little room and visibility at the turbos, I might not be able to cut it.

By the way, the replacement of all the vacuum hoses made my wastegate rattle like MAD! Even louder during de-acceleration.

The actuators are metal, just twist and yank them off. I cut all of them except those two due to space constraints.

[FL335]

Originally Posted by Yournamehere90

The actuators are metal, just twist and yank them off. I cut all of them except those two due to space constraints.

Bingo...same here,

[tofu?]

Originally Posted by nukezero

By the way, the replacement of all the vacuum hoses made my wastegate rattle like MAD! Even louder during de-acceleration.

You screwed something up.

Cracked a nipple, didn't connect a hose, or a hose slipped off

[nukezero]

Originally Posted by tofu?

You screwed something up.

Cracked a nipple, didn't connect a hose, or a hose slipped off

I've replaced all vacuum hoses from the vacuum pump all the way to each turbo. Every single T, vacuum canister, you name it. I replaced with OEM genuine parts from the dealer. The braided ones for braided ones and the rubber one for rubber one. I also replaced the vacuum hose from the intake manifold to each diverter. It is still not solving my 30FF low boost. I have replaced 1 turbo solenoid but still no good.

I have hooked up a vac gauge and isolated each turbo solenoid and started the engine. Both turbo solenoids report 25mmHG when I start the engine.

So I know vacuum is good. Now I'm convinced the turbo wastegates are shot, hence the massive rattling on rpm decline.

[J87505]

I upgraded to the blue platinum cured tubing last weekend, I attached a pic

[J87505]

Another pic for you guys

[madmantwo]

Originally Posted by J87505

I upgraded to the blue platinum cured tubing last weekend, I attached a pic

Can you send me the link for that? Looks so much better than the blue tubing I ordered recently

[Tim603]

Originally Posted by nukezero

I've replaced all vacuum hoses from the vacuum pump all the way to each turbo. Every single T, vacuum canister, you name it. I replaced with OEM genuine parts from the dealer. The braided ones for braided ones and the rubber one for rubber one. I also replaced the vacuum hose from the intake manifold to each diverter. It is still not solving my 30FF low boost. I have replaced 1 turbo solenoid but still no good.

I have hooked up a vac gauge and isolated each turbo solenoid and started the engine. Both turbo solenoids report 25mmHG when I start the engine.

So I know vacuum is good. Now I'm convinced the turbo wastegates are shot, hence the massive rattling on rpm decline.

Chances are its your waste gates but have you pressure tested the intake system? A leak post turbo is not uncommon and it will cause 30ff

[J87505]

Originally Posted by madmantwo

Can you send me the link for that? Looks so much better than the blue tubing I ordered recently

I ordered the blue 3.5 in 12 foot length

http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...ld-by-the-Foot

[MysticRob]

Originally Posted by BlackBB6

When you see how easy they are to identify, you'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner. The longer green and red sections are the ones that run to the wastegates. The lines are held in with clips you'll have to free them from, similar to the one in the middle of the blue section.

Yes, I know my engine bay is dirty, and I the oil housing gasket is going to be replaced next week.

Old thread but it has great info. I appreciate this post from back in the day. I printed it up and used it as a blueprint to get all mine swapped out. I used the black 3.5mm from verociousmotorsports.com. Ordered 16ft and have maybe 2ft left over.

To help others, I ended up taking the vacuum canisters off their mounts to make it easier to get the old lines off the bottoms, as I didn't want to snap the nipples off accidentally. That also made it a little easier to get the front wastegate line swapped out. That one and the rear wastegate were definitely the most difficult lines to change due to cramped quarters and angles, but a bit of WD-40 on the inside of the new lines allowed me to slip them on easier.

I also changed the short line coming off the main hard-line on the left side inner fender, and changed out the intake-to-diverter-valve lines too. Altogether took about 3hrs, but well worth the piece of mind, as I had some loose ones, and some hardened ones that would've caused problems eventually. I had to take a sharp blade to all the old lines and a small screwdriver to loosen the ends off the connectors to avoid breaking any nipples. No way did I want to spend extra time fixing broken things.

[terryd5150]

Great thread.

Has anyone seen a DIY for replacing the hard line that goes around the air box to the brake booster?

[Antoans4]

What would be the labor cost for something like this

[SilverStreak18]

Originally Posted by terryd5150

Great thread.

Has anyone seen a DIY for replacing the hard line that goes around the air box to the brake booster?

I replaced mine with silicon line and ran it under the intake manifold back to the firewall and then to the brake booster. It makes my engine bay look so much cleaner without that ugly hard line.