[grizzjr1]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

Outstanding contribution. Thank you.

Agreed. I think logging these parameters in TestO will be much more beneficial than everyone replacing converters and vacuum lines then scratching their heads if something didn't work.

The more people that log, the more examples we have on what is "normal" behavior.

[JuiceQuadre]

Hey guys..

Im experiencing the Intermittent partial loss of power at lower revs.(below 2500) Well actually it feels more and more like the loss of power is there to stay and what is intermittent and less and less frequent is the actual strong pull.

My car is a European (no SCR for example) 2006 with 220k kilometres (140k miles) so shes an old beast.

I have no relevant codes.

Im about to clean injectors(they have been replaced a year ago) and replace all vacuum lines(not sure if ever replaced) and then see it from there..

Do you think thats a good way to start? My hoses on both sides of intercooler have a bit of fresh oil on them but im told by my guy that its pretty normal with these bmws? Is it possible to have those sealed in such way that no leaks will be left at all?

I would love to do the loggs such as you guys do, however i only have Carly at my disposal. And as i understand it is rather slow for logging boost leaks? I tried to monitor the boost while driving and with full pull i did get to 31 psi. But thats of course 3k+ rpm. Not sure how to verify the lower rpm boost leak.

Thanks

[Yozh]

You can log requested vs actual boost with carly. Also, requested MAF vs actual. TestO is the best for logging. But if you run Android, you can get Torque app and download DWR's PIDs to get some better and additional readings. But all in all, you should start with proper diagnosis before you throw parts at it. Test your vacuum system, it's free and fairly easy, at least this will tell you if your system has any leaks that will affect turbo control and consequently low rpm behaviour. But that that mileage, if nothing has been done, you could choose to refresh a lot of things such as lines and pressure converters. I certainly would test them first though.

[JuiceQuadre]

Originally Posted by Yozh

You can log requested vs actual boost with carly. Also, requested MAF vs actual. TestO is the best for logging. But if you run Android, you can get Torque app and download DWR's PIDs to get some better and additional readings. But all in all, you should start with proper diagnosis before you throw parts at it. Test your vacuum system, it's free and fairly easy, at least this will tell you if your system has any leaks that will affect turbo control and consequently low rpm behaviour. But that that mileage, if nothing has been done, you could choose to refresh a lot of things such as lines and pressure converters. I certainly would test them first though.

Thank you!

Ok i will try logging with Carly then. Will post results.

I want to do the lines either way because i think its their time and i dont wanna be doubting them in the future. Will try to test converters while at it.

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by JuiceQuadre

Thank you!

Ok i will try logging with Carly then. Will post results.

I want to do the lines either way because i think its their time and i dont wanna be doubting them in the future. Will try to test converters while at it.

You will not be able to test pressure converters electrically, besides the resistance between the two contacts. Then oscilloscope. Just test them based on their vacuum output in parallel with the original connections. If you can do that comparing to the output parameters, that would be even better, but Carly will only be able to do Turbine Switchover.

[TDIwyse]

Yozh, one thing I was wanting to ask you that I forgot ... when I was removing the "rail" that holds all the vacuum control stuff during my turbo swap, I removed the whole apparatus at once. But after taking it off I saw that there are bolts holding the 2 support pieces together (see image from previous post here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=130)

Have you found it easier to remove the outer section first before unbolting the part connected to the engine? Or if someone where to need to replace/repair tubing/pressure converters/etc. in that area, is it possible to just unbolt that outer piece to gain access and leave the main piece attached?

[DozerDan82]

Broke down and ordered two pressure control valves. Replaced all of the vac lines and still was having the no boost issue. Pulled it all back out and retested with the new lines, the one valve (rear most) was not giving any vac readings on the gauge, while the other one was at least trying to build vac.

Found them on ECS Tuning for $68 each. Decided to just get two and see what it gets me.

Honestly as much as I love the car I am growing weary of it. I spend all day working on cars/trucks/machines I am just losing the desire to come home and work on my own car at the end of the day. Hopefully this is a fix.

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

Yozh, one thing I was wanting to ask you that I forgot ... when I was removing the "rail" that holds all the vacuum control stuff during my turbo swap, I removed the whole apparatus at once. But after taking it off I saw that there are bolts holding the 2 support pieces together (see image from previous post here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=130)

Have you found it easier to remove the outer section first before unbolting the part connected to the engine? Or if someone where to need to replace/repair tubing/pressure converters/etc. in that area, is it possible to just unbolt that outer piece to gain access and leave the main piece attached?

You can do either way. For me I find it is easier to remove the whole thing. In both cases one would need to be disconnecting a few vacuum connections. I think the "other" option needs to consider more connections.

Originally Posted by DozerDan82

Broke down and ordered two pressure control valves. Replaced all of the vac lines and still was having the no boost issue. Pulled it all back out and retested with the new lines, the one valve (rear most) was not giving any vac readings on the gauge, while the other one was at least trying to build vac.

Found them on ECS Tuning for $68 each. Decided to just get two and see what it gets me.

Honestly as much as I love the car I am growing weary of it. I spend all day working on cars/trucks/machines I am just losing the desire to come home and work on my own car at the end of the day. Hopefully this is a fix.

Pressure converters are not forever, they do eventually wear out. And they are not a BMW specific item, there are a lot of cars out there that use them. Same goes for vacuum lines, they are a wear item. Before throwing parts at it, you can always diagnose it better. Also think of it as a closed system, a leak in one component will affect the other, eg.: a leaking engine mount will affect turbo control.

[DozerDan82]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Pressure converters are not forever, they do eventually wear out. And they are not a BMW specific item, there are a lot of cars out there that use them. Same goes for vacuum lines, they are a wear item. Before throwing parts at it, you can always diagnose it better. Also think of it as a closed system, a leak in one component will affect the other, eg.: a leaking engine mount will affect turbo control.

Very true.

I ohm them out, both hit at 13.7-8. the rear most would not build vac at all, either direction. The foremost one does. Prior to changing out the lines I recall having similar results, however I think I was tired of messing with it and just hoped the lines would be a fix. (they def helped, but not a fix)

At this point I know one of the PC is not right, at least compared to the other. Yes I can still have other issues, but again my time to work on my own car after hours is growing weak. I know throwing parts at it is wrong, I would fire myself for doing so, but right now the $137 is a fair gamble in my mind.

I guess I am getting burnt out and my personal car suffers. Only myself to blame, and being crazy busy and not even being able to work on MY car is MY shop on MY lift, and instead doing it in the home garage....

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by DozerDan82

...the $137 is a fair gamble in my mind.

I agree with you. If a car has any miles, it's a cheap fix to renew all the lines and two pressure converters. Electric switchover valves (compressor bypass, engine mount control and EGR cooler bypass) seem to fair much better and rarely leak. It's the pressure converters that seem to loose it after some time. And electric switchover valves are easy to test by applying vacuum to the input port and testing for resistance or just a 9v battery. Good luck and please post what was your result.

I need to do a few maintenance items on my car and no time....

[204335d]

Having used this article as a guide line, I now have an in depth knowledge of the system. If the issue is no low rpm boost, it is due to the turbine control valve (page 1 first image) having no vacuum. Easy to test the diaphragm with a vacuum gauge and easy to diagnose, as soon as the car is running, you should see the lever move and the exhaust note change. It draws its vacuum from the front converter.

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by 204335d

....the turbine control valve (page 1 first image) having no vacuum. .....It draws its vacuum from the front converter.

Turbine Control Valve is controlled by the back converter. Front pressure converter controls the wastegate. Back converter is connected to the vacuum accumulator box and front converter is fed vacuum directly from the system.

Glad it has worked out for you though.

[DozerDan82]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Good luck and please post what was your result.

So far the results are not fully in... Got the new converters, and installed them. The low end power loss is not as drastic, but still present. Upon the first drive I was annoyed as I notices almost no difference, however subsequent drives seemed to get better.

Jury is still out. It is not throwing the under boost code currently but again I have not had much drive time in it since reset.

Last night I went to plug in the scanner and the obd port broke on the car side. Nothing "major" just the one bracket where it is attached to the car. Took it all apart and plastic welded it back up so it stays in place, also wound up detailing the inside of the front of my car. Started cleaning the parts I had off to get the the port, and got carried away. So the car looks great but still runs like hell hahaha

I reset all of the codes and adaptive learning but then it was dinner time so did not drive it.

Part of me is thinking the particulate filter is clogged, part of me is wondering if the pressure sensor that comes off the exhaust is working right, part of me keeps wishing a deer would run out in front of me....

Either way, the parts from ECS Tuning arrived on time (less the USPS mess up) and were a direct fit. Will definitely be using them in the future.

Should get some seat time tomorrow in it and have a better idea of what it is doing now.

[grizzjr1]

Originally Posted by DozerDan82

So far the results are not fully in... Got the new converters, and installed them. The low end power loss is not as drastic, but still present. Upon the first drive I was annoyed as I notices almost no difference, however subsequent drives seemed to get better.

Jury is still out. It is not throwing the under boost code currently but again I have not had much drive time in it since reset.

Last night I went to plug in the scanner and the obd port broke on the car side. Nothing "major" just the one bracket where it is attached to the car. Took it all apart and plastic welded it back up so it stays in place, also wound up detailing the inside of the front of my car. Started cleaning the parts I had off to get the the port, and got carried away. So the car looks great but still runs like hell hahaha

I reset all of the codes and adaptive learning but then it was dinner time so did not drive it.

Part of me is thinking the particulate filter is clogged, part of me is wondering if the pressure sensor that comes off the exhaust is working right, part of me keeps wishing a deer would run out in front of me....

Either way, the parts from ECS Tuning arrived on time (less the USPS mess up) and were a direct fit. Will definitely be using them in the future.

Should get some seat time tomorrow in it and have a better idea of what it is doing now.

I've seen some results from MAF replacement, that's my next step after cleaning. I have low boost back somewhat, but it's not like my other 335d.

[lor3n]

Originally Posted by grizzjr1

I've seen some results from MAF replacement, that's my next step after cleaning. I have low boost back somewhat, but it's not like my other 335d.

I finally solved my problem, after replacing all of the vaccuum related stuff and not having any improvements and testing the bypass valve I took it to my mechanic and after a lot of testing it turned out to be the MAF. It is back to normal now. There were never any codes. The one thing that indicated a MAF sensor could be the issue was that the temperature reading of the intake air was way too low to be accurate (-50c). I'm thinking they my tune from BPC may be preventing some codes from triggering. There should have been an implausibility code according to my mechanic. I'm just glad it's working!

I found a MAF sensor for $167 made by Bosch at rmeuropean.com and they shipped it next day for only $8. It was much faster and cheaper than the other sites which usually have delayed shipping and higher prices.

[JuiceQuadre]

So, i tried some logging via Carly, however Carly hates me and for some reason i cant get the app to send me the logg session. ....

Anyway, one thing i have noticed was my Air mass per cylinder was higher than Air mass set point by 100-200 mg/hub when accelerating. (Eg set point 400, actual 550)

It didnt seem to be due lagg. It seemed consistently higher. Does that have anything to do with MAF? Also, my MAF is not showing any codes and the temp sensor inside is clearly working well as my temps show couple of degrees higher than ambient temp as it should.

edit: it happens most during what i would notice about the engine before - "reving high with not enough fuel" feeling. I dont know if thats normal or not, but sometimes when i press the pedal lets say 40%, the engine seems to rev higher than what feels natural, but without power coming with the revs)

Ideas?

[DozerDan82]

ok so who wants to buy a 335d cheap....

Car is still non responsive at low RPM, once it hits 2500-3000 it takes off like a rocket ship, but prior to that I feel like I am driving an old school MB diesel.

I repulled codes today, here is what I am showing. The purge valve code is related to the def system no working, the valve itself is clean/clear and functions on the bench. No idea why the low voltage is there, shy of needed a battery. (it was dead and brought back to life once)

[Yozh]

4530 is a fairly broad code that will cover anything from boost leaks, intake restrictions, exhaust leaks and exhaust restrictions. One thing to keep in mind here - having this SES will prevent DPF regeneration. Which in turn will exacerbate the problem further. If you happen to have proper BMW diagnostic tools, I would try to force the regeneration of the DPF. Looks like you have a stock car (sorry if I did not follow). However, you need to look to the primary causes of the 4530, which a plugged DPF may very well be. Or could have been bad pressure converter, or vacuum leaks, or even a bad thermostat.

You could also have a plugged SCR, but may be unlikely. This is based from your other codes concerning the reducing agent valve. But this one at least is easy to test. Remove your SCR injection valve and to have exhaust opening before SCR and you will be able to test the difference.

I am not sure if you have some diagnostic tools like TestO or even Torque at your disposal. This will help you pull parameters and see what EMP you are running. May be a good idea.

Here are some details on your codes, sans 4530. The smooth running is probably 4530 related. The EWS one is strange. May be one of the modules was once replaced and not coded right. The Metering Valve one is interesting if you say that the valve functions on the bench. May be a bad contact in the harness.

[JuiceQuadre]

Where do you get these detailed descriptions of faults good sir?

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by JuiceQuadre

Where do you get these detailed descriptions of faults good sir?

Rheingold / ISTA

[Yozh]

Thought I'll share a video we did of vacuum lines and pressure converters replacement. Not the greatest quality as were using an old pocket camera that can get dirty. Anyway, first attempt and not fully what it really should be.

[Persian Whisperjet]

A bit OT, but I was spelunking around under the airbox looking for the reason why my Blackstone results are showing relatively high levels of silica, and saw what looks like some missing studs/nuts on the turbo. Can anyone tell me what I am looking at in this cellphone pic? Car is an 11. Thanks.