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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > Harmonic Balancer Pulley Fluidampr



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      06-16-2016, 03:10 AM   #155
Hockey13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yozh
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Originally Posted by Hockey13 View Post
They even have the Guibo shown as the top item that's aluminum with bushings that I'm going to order as well from FCP.
Your 2011 M-sport should already have an upgraded aluminum with bushings guibo. Unless you have experienced some driveline slop, you do not really need it.
which I do have a 11 335d m-sport however it's not the aluminum guibo...
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      06-16-2016, 03:13 AM   #156
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His isn't, it's all rubber. A pic I took when we were installing his exhaust.

A little unjoint grease spatter
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      06-16-2016, 11:05 AM   #157
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which I do have a 11 335d m-sport however it's not the aluminum guibo...
In that case the manufacture date is before 10/2010.
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      06-16-2016, 11:40 AM   #158
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Yeah I have a 2011 with DOM early 2010. So it really just depends.

Best way to check go to realoem.com insert last 7 of the vin. Then it will reveal your production date.
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      06-18-2016, 07:06 AM   #159
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Any idea on the ETA for the Fluidampr for the 335D?

My pulley just went out today at 89000 miles and I would rather pay for the Fluidampr than another failure-prone oem part.
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      06-18-2016, 07:58 AM   #160
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General consensus says to go with a Febi. I am currently waiting on them to get back to me. It's absolutely frustrating to watch these go daily, trust me. Monday I will call and speak with them directly to see if this is happening or not...
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      06-18-2016, 10:33 AM   #161
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General consensus says to go with a Febi. I am currently waiting on them to get back to me. It's absolutely frustrating to watch these go daily, trust me. Monday I will call and speak with them directly to see if this is happening or not...
Febi over Corteco?
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      06-18-2016, 10:45 AM   #162
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Corteco should be good as well. There is a member here that probably wouldn't recommend Vaico.
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      06-18-2016, 12:44 PM   #163
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General consensus says to go with a Febi.
I do not believe that was established with certainty. There are only a few individuals who has purchased Febi made ones and we would need some mileage on them to confirm. What we do know, that Corteco one lasts about 80-100K miles and at least in my case Vaico is a dud.
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      06-18-2016, 01:25 PM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kydiesel35 View Post
Yeah I have a 2011 with DOM early 2010. So it really just depends.

Best way to check go to realoem.com insert last 7 of the vin. Then it will reveal your production date.
Your production date is also on your body by the b pillar when you open the door
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      06-18-2016, 01:33 PM   #165
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Originally Posted by kydiesel35 View Post
Yeah I have a 2011 with DOM early 2010. So it really just depends.

Best way to check go to realoem.com insert last 7 of the vin. Then it will reveal your production date.
Your production date is also on your body by the b pillar when you open the door
Haha yeah I was thinking about that afterwards.
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      06-18-2016, 01:39 PM   #166
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is there a how to for the replacement of this part yet that I missed?
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      06-19-2016, 05:31 PM   #167
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Any update on fluidamper availability?
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      06-19-2016, 05:39 PM   #168
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I'll have an ETA by this week hopefully. I'm on the verge of destruction just like everyone else, 70k miles now.

Wouldn't it be amazing to buy the last damper we ever need?

This will definitely be the fix!
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      06-19-2016, 06:00 PM   #169
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Now I'm getting worried looking at the distances for all of these failures, I'm at 81k miles now.
They sure know how to engineer things to fail after the warranty is up!
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      06-19-2016, 11:14 PM   #170
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Has anyone changes the pully themselves? I plan to as soon as my new one arrives and wish there was insight or a how to? especially if anything needs to be removed for the pully to drop or lift out...
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      06-20-2016, 12:29 AM   #171
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Quote:
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Now I'm getting worried looking at the distances for all of these failures, I'm at 81k miles now.
They sure know how to engineer things to fail after the warranty is up!
Mine is at 135k and still alive, it's certainly not a guarantee that it is going to go out at 80k. You could inspect it and see if it is showing any signs of coming failure.
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      06-20-2016, 04:16 AM   #172
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Originally Posted by Hockey13 View Post
Has anyone changes the pully themselves? I plan to as soon as my new one arrives and wish there was insight or a how to? especially if anything needs to be removed for the pully to drop or lift out...
I haven't done mine but it looks pretty straight forward.

Jack up front of car
Take of old belts (use belt tool)
Stop flywheel from spinning (flywheel port or holding pin)
Undo bolts
Take off old pulley
Put on new pulley
Do up bolts, torque appropriately
Put on belts with belt tool
Crack a beer and live worry free for a while
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      06-20-2016, 02:58 PM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kydiesel35 View Post
I'll have an ETA by this week hopefully. I'm on the verge of destruction just like everyone else, 70k miles now.

Wouldn't it be amazing to buy the last damper we ever need?

This will definitely be the fix!
That would be pretty darn awesome. Keep us posted, hopefully fluidampr reaches out to you soon and we can submit our order.
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      06-20-2016, 03:17 PM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Owen81
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hockey13 View Post
Has anyone changes the pully themselves? I plan to as soon as my new one arrives and wish there was insight or a how to? especially if anything needs to be removed for the pully to drop or lift out...
I haven't done mine but it looks pretty straight forward.

Jack up front of car
Take of old belts (use belt tool)
Stop flywheel from spinning (flywheel port or holding pin)
Undo bolts
Take off old pulley
Put on new pulley
Do up bolts, torque appropriately
Put on belts with belt tool
Crack a beer and live worry free for a while
agreed... I'm just curious of there is enough room to take it right out, or if something will be in its way...
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      06-20-2016, 04:39 PM   #175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hockey13 View Post
agreed... I'm just curious of there is enough room to take it right out, or if something will be in its way...
Removing the radiator fan makes it much easier to remove/install the belts and pulley.
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      06-21-2016, 02:28 AM   #176
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Definitely remove the rad fan. Easy to do too.
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