[rjahl]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

So to put this to rest... I emailed with BPC and they said using jumper cables to another rides battery is fine for when downloading and installing tunes.

Just to clarify, I would not try to start the other vehicle during the flash.

Cranking the starter motor could pull both batteries voltages down below the safe voltage and crash the flash.

Really, it's just better to have a charger in the garage anyways. Why muck around?

[BlueM3Wagon]

Pardon my ignorance. I pulled the stock tune off the vehicle. I did this with a 15 amp charger on the charger ports under the hood. When I read it, I had the car in ACC mode (just one push on the push start) about 10 mins in the car said battery very low and the I-drive screen turned off. The read finished fine and the car started up just fine after an hour. My question is, does the car need to have one push or two pushes (without the foot in the brake to start it) and should I be worried the message I got about the battery when it was on an actual charger for the write?

[N52UNED]

Originally Posted by Michaellcoates

Pardon my ignorance. I pulled the stock tune off the vehicle. I did this with a 15 amp charger on the charger ports under the hood. When I read it, I had the car in ACC mode (just one push on the push start) about 10 mins in the car said battery very low and the I-drive screen turned off. The read finished fine and the car started up just fine after an hour. My question is, does the car need to have one push or two pushes (without the foot in the brake to start it) and should I be worried the message I got about the battery when it was on an actual charger for the write?

Do you mean does it take 1 or 2 times pressing the "start" button to turn on the dash during the tune flashing procedure? (ie. pressing "start" button without pressing the brake pedal)

... OR ... 1 or 2 times pressing the "start" button while pressing the brake to start the car after the tune has been flashed?

[BlueM3Wagon]

Originally Posted by N52UNED

Do you mean does it take 1 or 2 times pressing the "start" button to turn on the dash during the tune flashing procedure? (ie. pressing "start" button without pressing the brake pedal)

... OR ... 1 or 2 times pressing the "start" button while pressing the brake to start the car after the tune has been flashed?

I mean, am I suppose to press the start button twice (with brake not pressed so the car doesn't actually start) when flashing? I assume the two modes are accessory and ignition. I just don't want to flash in acc mode and fuck the writing up if it's suppose to be in ignition mode

[N52UNED]

Originally Posted by Michaellcoates

I mean, am I suppose to press the start button twice (with brake not pressed so the car doesn't actually start) when flashing? I assume the two modes are accessory and ignition. I just don't want to flash in acc mode and fuck the writing up if it's suppose to be in ignition mode

As long as you keep your foot off the brake pedal and follow the instructions on the MyGenius devise, you should be fine. It will tell you when to turn On/Off the dash/ignition. You can also download/print the PDF instructions.

To turn on the dash/ignition (pressing the start button 1x). During the entire process you will be instructed to turn on and off the dash/ignition a couple/few times.

I did find that during each of my flashes (had to flash back to stock then reflash due to an error) ... whether it was flashing the BPC tune or Stock tune; when turning the dash/ignition ON, I had to press the start button 2x for it to come on (taking my time ... each time first press did nothing ... second press turned on dash/ignition ... also I had to keep the start button depressed a bit longer than a usual "start" process). I'm not sure if this was due to my car's software version.

A word of advice ... when the process is done ... don't start the car too quickly ... wait a minute or so. I started the car immediately (following the PDF instructions) and had a "Half-Check Engine" light because it didn't set my adaptations. Had to flash back the stock tune ... and start over. Also I did get a U0100 code each time I flashed either tune (lost communication with ECU code). When speaking with BPC ... Depending on the version of your car's software ... some flashings go smoother than others. So don't be alarmed if you get a code. Bob @ BPC was great guiding me through my code issues (I work from home so I was able to flash the tune on a weekday during regular business hours).

[davidwj]

I am new to BMW and researched forums to find out what people liked for enhancing performance. The BPC tune seemed favorable, so I purchased it. The only other mod is charcoal filter delete.

The car is an 06 330 Xi 90,000 miles, auto. On my first attempt to write the new tune, it gave me the error "Erase not enabled". It went into recovery mode and I repeated that a number of times with no success (following on screen instructions). I am not going to try to start or drive the car as expect the tune is currently corrupted. The car was on a charger at the time. Another item I found interesting was that while going through this process it indicated 4x4 issue and traction control issue on the dash.

I have already sent off the log files to BPC.

Anyone else have this happen?

[W37V]

Originally Posted by davidwj

I am new to BMW and researched forums to find out what people liked for enhancing performance. The BPC tune seemed favorable, so I purchased it. The only other mod is charcoal filter delete.

The car is an 06 330 Xi 90,000 miles, auto. On my first attempt to write the new tune, it gave me the error "Erase not enabled". It went into recovery mode and I repeated that a number of times with no success (following on screen instructions). I am not going to try to start or drive the car as expect the tune is currently corrupted. The car was on a charger at the time. Another item I found interesting was that while going through this process it indicated 4x4 issue and traction control issue on the dash.

I have already sent off the log files to BPC.

Anyone else have this happen?

Where did the error display? On handheld or dash/idrive?

Traction, ABS, and bunch of other messages will appear during the flashing process. It's normal. That's why at the end of the flash process, you need to wipe all codes.

[davidwj]

Originally Posted by W37V

Where did the error display? On handheld or dash/idrive?

The 4x 4 and AWD errors were on the dash. The error for erase not enabled appeared on the handheld.

Traction, ABS, and bunch of other messages will appear during the flashing process. It's normal. That's why at the end of the flash process, you need to wipe all codes.

Ok, thanks for the information.

[John@BPC]

[N52UNED]

Originally Posted by John@BPC

BPC Handle Held Flash Tool Guide ...

When I flashed the tune ... I noticed that during the final processes of the flash; when the handheld states to turn the ignition off then back on ... when turning the ignition back on ... it did not turn on with the typical "single" press of the start button ... it would take 2 times to get the ignition to turn on (showing the check engine light). The first press would do nothing ... I had to press and release the "start" button a bit slower as well. I found I had to press the "start" button twice happened each time I flashed either the stock or modified tune.

Is this normal? Does this depend on my car's software version?

[Bob@BPC]

Originally Posted by N52UNED

When I flashed the tune ... I noticed that during the final processes of the flash; when the handheld states to turn the ignition off then back on ... when turning the ignition back on ... it did not turn on with the typical "single" press of the start button ... it would take 2 times to get the ignition to turn on (showing the check engine light). The first press would do nothing ... I had to press and release the "start" button a bit slower as well. I found I had to press the "start" button twice happened each time I flashed either the stock or modified tune.

Is this normal? Does this depend on my car's software version?

Thats normal, the whole goal is to always make sure the check engine light is displayed when the handheld ask to turn on the ignition switch

[John@BPC]

This car is completely stock besides the 3 stage intake, AA headers, and our BPC tune. Dyno graph at the end of the video.

[Biginboca]

With Stage 1 BPC Tune, 3IM, and 3.73 Rear Diff I'm getting right around 3.8-4.0 from 60-80. Everything else is stock and was in third gear for the video below. Redline is just about 80...

[brads2002]

In general how do you like that diff with this combo for daily driving. Is it tolerable on the highway? 3.73 seems like a good fit.

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by brads2002

In general how do you like that diff with this combo for daily driving. Is it tolerable on the highway? 3.73 seems like a good fit.

It's perfect. There's nothing else to say about it lol

[CobraMarty]

I have PI, PE and a AA tune from about 6 years ago and no access to my stock tune.

Will that matter? Can you still 'tune' this tune?

I will be adding a 3IM, AFE secondary cat delete pipes, Magnaflow Cat'ed headers and +1mm Valvetronic Supports before getting your tune.

[W37V]

Originally Posted by CobraMarty

I have PI, PE and a AA tune from about 6 years ago and no access to my stock tune.

Will that matter? Can you still 'tune' this tune?

I will be adding a 3IM, AFE secondary cat delete pipes, Magnaflow Cat'ed headers and +1mm Valvetronic Supports before getting your tune.

I was in similar situation. I had AA on. But it didn't matter to BPC. I just read whatever was on the car and send the file to Bob. Not long after I got the new tune from BPC. So, unless the tune is locked, they should be able to do a tune regardless of what you currently have on the car. At least that was my experience.

[E92inAZ]

please put me down for the next group order

I'm just starting researching this project for my 2007 328i and I'm seeing that the BPC tune is the way to go. I haven't even bought any parts yet and might even wait until february when my tags are due so i can go through OBD2 testing without worry because this car is a daily driver.
(probably not though, I'm getting pretty excited about the whole thing and i think someone mentioned earlier in this thread it shouldn't be a problem)

I will be going with the AA cat-less header, the AFE stage 2 intake box and stage 3 intake manifold and more and more popular opinion is that this tune will give me the most out of this setup

[BlueM3Wagon]

So the first tune I got from Bob I loaded, ran it and thought I needed to give it 50-100 miles to acclimate to the DME. I didn't feel any difference in power, throttle response or anything. Emailed the shop to let them know about my experience and sure enough I was provided the wrong tune for vehicle by accident. They were quick to send the corrected version over and after loading, I could tell it was the correct tune immediately. I'd say worth every penny on the 3IM upgrade for this vehicle. Is it enough? N, but at least it will get me by till I drop a Super charger in it. Thanks guys!

[N52UNED]

I just got my car back from the shop (a rat got up in my bumper and decided to chew on wires ... )

This was the first time since the 3IM install that the Bosh Services mechanic has driven my 328 after I flashed the BPC tune. Here's what he had to say about it with the added tune ... "compared to a stock 328 ... it drives like a dream." IMO this is saying a lot from a mechanic who's been working on BMW's for the past 25 years and test drives them pretty much on a daily basis.

... just thought I'd share from someone who's unbiased for anyone who's contemplating a 3IM + BPC performance tune install.