[Josh49]

Originally Posted by Crazy Bimmer

I just did it with #28 and it works... but the V1 will only turn on when the car is completely on. Turns off normally too when the car is off.

Damn... how do big german hands fit in these places?!?!!?

I was going to include that in your pm. The hardest part is tapping the fuse, it's hard to get your hand through there and work. Let alone see what you're doing..

[ezatnova]

Well, I'm having a new problem now (I hardwired about 1.5 mos ago when I got the car). I just noticed my cig lighter ports are dead. Culprit...blown fuse. Now, to tap for the detector I used the 5 amp fuse second to the left, bottom row of the first block of fuses in the upper left. Like an above poster said, I too tried the homelink, and it was on all the time, so I moved on to a random one until I found a 5 amp that worked. However, I may have caused a mess. Now that fuse in the tap (not the detector fuse, the "original" 5 amp fuse) is blown, so I replaced that, and still no cig lighter power. I happened to look at the one to the right of that one (the 20 amp third from the left, bottom row of the first block) and poof, that one's blown to bits too. I replaced that one and that's the ticket to getting the cig lighter power outlets working again.
I just don't get it. A) why this is causing things to blow, and B) why it also blew the 20 amp next to it!

[phantom330]

I hardwired my V1 last night, got the "add a fuse" adaptor at Autozone, and it was a super easy install. I consider myself to be a novice when it comes to things like that and was a little intimidated doing it, but once I got in there I was surprised how simple it was! Thanks to all who posted the tutorials.

[Josh49]

Originally Posted by phantom330

I hardwired my V1 last night, got the "add a fuse" adaptor at Autozone, and it was a super easy install. I consider myself to be a novice when it comes to things like that and was a little intimidated doing it, but once I got in there I was surprised how simple it was! Thanks to all who posted the tutorials.

Congrats.. Well done..

Glad this thread was able to help you out..

Josh

[Booboo12]

just got my V1.
just finished reading all the threads on wiring it up - and am gogin to attempt the fusebox method. Gotta go get the fuse tap.
Got a few questions:
1. since I removed my lighter and ashtray and put in the sunglass holder, can I use the fuse for the lighter instead of the homelink? (or is that not a 5amp fuse?) Just wondering if I SHOULD use that since it's not being used for the lighter anymore...
2. Should the fuse you put in the fuse tap be a 1 amp or 3 amp? Sounds like most everyone is using a 3amp fuse. If I can, should I just use a 1 amp?
3. How easy is it to remove the pillar to install the cords? Do I have to worry about setting off the airbag? (and no I won't be using a hammer )
thanks!!!

[HyperM3]

Originally Posted by Booboo12

just got my V1.
just finished reading all the threads on wiring it up - and am gogin to attempt the fusebox method. Gotta go get the fuse tap.
Got a few questions:
1. since I removed my lighter and ashtray and put in the sunglass holder, can I use the fuse for the lighter instead of the homelink? (or is that not a 5amp fuse?) Just wondering if I SHOULD use that since it's not being used for the lighter anymore...
2. Should the fuse you put in the fuse tap be a 1 amp or 3 amp? Sounds like most everyone is using a 3amp fuse. If I can, should I just use a 1 amp?
3. How easy is it to remove the pillar to install the cords? Do I have to worry about setting off the airbag? (and no I won't be using a hammer )
thanks!!!

Youre funny. You read all the threads and yet you still question things that have been proven to work.

You dont remove the pillar, you just stuff the wire behind it. Use a flathead screwdriver or actual plastic panel poppers for it.

[Booboo12]

it's my nature to question everything -
if you think it's annoying to you - think how I feel

1. Yeah - I did check the fusebox and the lighter is 20amp so I will be using the homelink one... (it was the following post that made me think of tieing into the lighter fuse\wiring http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30100)
2. ahhh this one is interesting. The V1 only requires 1am when using the direct wire connector... and people are using the 3amp ones since they have them instead of the 1 amp ones... so a 1 amp one should work fine. It was a "Should I if I can" question... - again I annoy even myself since I can ask the question
and 3. Like the other questions, just making things a little more difficult for myself, but was thinking of zip-tieing the cord away from the airbag in order to avoid interference...

gone overboard, huh? probably beyond at this time...

[HyperM3]

Originally Posted by Booboo12

it's my nature to question everything -
if you think it's annoying to you - think how I feel ...gone overboard, huh? probably beyond at this time...

Dont overanalyze everything. This is a simple mod you can do fairly easily. Youll be fine.

[Josh49]

Go with homelink. It's proven. When you buy the fuse adapter, it gives you all the mini blade fuses you will need. Use one to replace the homelink fuse, and a new one, whatever number you choose, to protect the v1. IIRC, the v1 hardwire has another fuse in it anyhow, so what number you choose should be the roughly the same. Lower, you might pop them often, higher you're not really accomplishing anything. Which is okay too I guess.

Did I confuse you more now??

[Josh49]

Make sure to buy the mini fuse tap..

[Booboo12]

Thanks!!!
Got the mini fuse tap. used the 3amp fuse in there. (Makes complete sense now that I see it all - V1 has the 1 amp fuse in the cable for the direct connect). Drilled a small hole for the grounding wire and then started wiring it up... I tried fuse #18 and it worked, but it was always on even when the car was off. I then moved to fuse #28 and got it working only when the car is on. (as it should be). This is on a 2007 e90 for those out there doing this too...
Josh49 - HyperM3 - thank you!!!

[Josh49]

^^^No problem. Glad you got it working!!

[HyperM3]

+1 good things! Now just be careful driving and dont assume the v1 will always save you.

[Josh49]

Originally Posted by HyperM3

+1 good things! Now just be careful driving and dont assume the v1 will always save you.

Yep. Always scan the road constantly for the parked troopers on the side of the road, bridges, ramps, etc. with lidar.

Drive safely..
Josh

[ettil]

Originally Posted by HyperM3

Youre funny. You read all the threads and yet you still question things that have been proven to work.

You dont remove the pillar, you just stuff the wire behind it. Use a flathead screwdriver or actual plastic panel poppers for it.

This is stupid.

It's very easy to remove the pillar & run the V1 cord down the windshield side and out the bottom by the dash. 0% airbag interference and it's totally invisible. Just take a baby flathead and carefully pop the airbag symbol, use a torx driver to remove the A pillar cover. Run the V1 wire down the windshield side & zip tie it in place to the airbag assembly bundle. It takes all of 1-2 extra minutes and is a super clean install with no poking the cord into place.

[HyperM3]

Originally Posted by ettil

This is stupid.

It's very easy to remove the pillar & run the V1 cord down the windshield side and out the bottom by the dash. 0% airbag interference and it's totally invisible. Just take a baby flathead and carefully pop the airbag symbol, use a torx driver to remove the A pillar cover. Run the V1 wire down the windshield side & zip tie it in place to the airbag assembly bundle. It takes all of 1-2 extra minutes and is a super clean install with no poking the cord into place.

What exactly is stupid about it? Theres no need to remove the a-pillar even though to you its only 2 minutes. Its simple to just run the cord around the window and push it behind the trim. Still cant see it with this easy method.

Meanwhile, can someone understand the stupid part in bold?

[Josh49]

Originally Posted by ettil

This is stupid.

It's very easy to remove the pillar & run the V1 cord down the windshield side and out the bottom by the dash. 0% airbag interference and it's totally invisible. Just take a baby flathead and carefully pop the airbag symbol, use a torx driver to remove the A pillar cover. Run the V1 wire down the windshield side & zip tie it in place to the airbag assembly bundle. It takes all of 1-2 extra minutes and is a super clean install with no poking the cord into place.

Damn.. She has balls!!

(I usually don't play with any parts that have airbag logos on them..)

[ettil]

Originally Posted by HyperM3

What exactly is stupid about it? Theres no need to remove the a-pillar even though to you its only 2 minutes. Its simple to just run the cord around the window and push it behind the trim. Still cant see it with this easy method.

Meanwhile, can someone understand the stupid part in bold?

If someone wants to run it down the A pillar properly why are you so against it?

I tried the "push it in to place" method first and it looked bad in couple of spots and I wasn't overly fond of it crossing the airbag to run under the felt trim. Yeah yeah you have more things to worry about if your airbag gets deployed... The pillars are supposed to blow away so why not give them all the freedom they could possibly need?

Anyways it was so f*ing simple to run it down the ASSEMBLY BUNDLE. NOT THE AIRBAG ITSELF. The assembly bundle is what I'm calling the nicely bound selection of wires for the airbag. It is not the airbag.

[Josh49]

^^^^Respect..

Can you post some pics? Especially any pics with the cover off would be great.

Me, I've seen too many firefighters in training videos have airbags go off on them during extrications, so I don't really like working on areas such as the A-pillar at all. Where is the cylinder, towards the top or bottom? Or is it down below the pillar?

Some pics would be great..

Thanks in advance..
Josh

[ettil]

Originally Posted by Josh49

Damn.. She has balls!!

(I usually don't play with any parts that have airbag logos on them..)

Thank you, thank you

From my experience if it says "airbag" and is removeable there's a bolt under it. The porsche dealership scratched one of my "airbag" tags replacing my door speaker years ago and that's when I learned the secret. A few door removals later...

Anyways I'm in no way advocating messing around with airbags. Just don't be totally afraid to remove trim if it's a better solution for your purposes.

[ettil]

Originally Posted by Josh49

^^^^Respect..

Can you post some pics? Especially any pics with the cover off would be great.

Me, I've seen too many firefighters in training videos have airbags go off on them during extrications, so I don't really like working on areas such as the A-pillar at all. Where is the cylinder, towards the top or bottom? Or is it down below the pillar?

Some pics would be great..

Thanks in advance..
Josh

How to remove the A-pillar (A pillar) - e90. A-pillar removal pics.

Notes & Disclaimers:
My car is dirty, it lives outside, we're close to drought conditions, and water gets used on other things right now.

The airbag symbol is very soft plastic. Pry in an inconspicuous place & please be very careful.

Torx driver is a T-20.

Please exercise extreme caution working around airbags. There's no need to go poking & prodding it. Share Josh's respect for airbags as I do.

The black phone cord is the v1 cable, the white zip ties are what I added to hold it in place. Larger pics upon request.

[Booboo12]

LOL - I just went out and did this and took pictures of the process... It was very easy - but ETTIL has smaller fingers and prettier pictures than me...

These pics though show the before and after of the cable route... You don't even have to unhook the wire, just move it over and zip tie it down... Easy extra mod step for the extra safety of your passenger... no cables crossing the airbag anymore...