[Rotary Rasp]

Whenever you make a change to the fsw file, it removes all of your custom variables in the nettodat file. You'll need to recode your entries nettodat.

[chanky]

Hi Guy's

Ich have a problem. i want retrofit H8 Xenon by the AE.
The Xenon's with low beam are to bright. Can i disable the AE with running low beam?

I've only tried this funktion.
-> PWM_SL_V_BEI_AKTIVEN_AL set from wert_03 -> wert_02
because this means: wert_02 = off

Thanks for help!

best regards
Thomas

[tcw]

Originally Posted by chanky

Hi Guy's

Ich have a problem. i want retrofit H8 Xenon by the AE.
The Xenon's with low beam are to bright. Can i disable the AE with running low beam?

I've only tried this funktion.
-> PWM_SL_V_BEI_AKTIVEN_AL set from wert_03 -> wert_02
because this means: wert_02 = off

Thanks for help!

best regards
Thomas

Play around with the PWM_RL_BL_1_FKT_SL wert_# until they turn off. This SHOULD control the voltage to them with the headlights on.

[tcw]

Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp

Whenever you make a change to the fsw file, it removes all of your custom variables in the nettodat file. You'll need to recode your entries nettodat.

Yeah, thats why I thought I was good to go after I reentered the 38,0E value... but no dice after all.

[tcw]

Fixed again... hopefully. Went to RadioShack and got some 4700uF capacitors. This appears to have fixed it now, I will update tomorrow on a cold start.

[tcw]

So far so good. Cleaned the interior and kept the car running the whole time and checked the AE periodically and no flickering or outage to be seen.

[youmeill]

Looks good! That's not too hot at all.

Give my last post a read.

[Rotary Rasp]

Originally Posted by tcw

Fixed again... hopefully. Went to RadioShack and got some 4700uF capacitors. This appears to have fixed it now, I will update tomorrow on a cold start.

I'm not sure why you needed caps. Everything can be coded out. (I've done about 7 or 8 cars by now, all using various brands of HID kits)

All that really matters is that you got it working though.

[tcw]

Well I definately had it coded correctly and I have the exact same setup as you (5k DDM tuning), but maybe my ballast aren't as strong or my electrical system is slightly different. Although they are still working 100% of the time after the capacitor install. With the capacitors it was still barely more than $50 so I am happy.

[youmeill]

Hey how do u fit the new hid bulb??

[tcw]

You mean insert it in the headlight? Well I insert the back of the bulb first and play with it until I can get the front to slide into its slot. Then tighten the bulb. After that try to carefully squeeze all the HID parts into the headlight. I had to do it differently of each side so just spend some time working the stuff around until it fits.

[Rotary Rasp]

Yea, it's a tight fit. But it is possible to get it all in there.

[azwillnj]

I have a 2011 e90 335 and can't find the variable in the NFRM module for the PWM that's listed in the first post. I managed to turn off the bulb check but I can't find the PWM variable. Could it be called something else?

Alex.

[cleex024]

for the guys that cant code it out for low beams off...there is a post earlier talkin about that and you have to code that out too.

everything seemed fine until i started to drive around so i coded that bl one out and everything works. well you have to change the volts to that 38 0E

[azwillnj]

My problem is the variable is not even there for PWM in my NFRM module.

[TommyLights]

Do NOT use 55W, it will melt your housing....

[itrocks4u]

anyone try it on halogen AEs yet?

[franzzz]

Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp

I'm going to show you guys how you can install HID angel eyes without cutting or splicing any wires! And if that wasn't good enough, everything is self contained and will fit INSIDE the head light housing. All for a total of $40 + shipping.

Step one: Buy HID kit from DDM tuning and wait ONE MONTH (it sucks).. I went with 5k color temp
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DD...ast-35W-or-55W



Step two: Mock up the hid kit over the head light housing.


Step three: Connect the power wires from the hid kit to the connector that the angel eye H8 bulb used.


Step four: tuck everything into the head light housing.


Step five: put cover back on and test


Once you completed these steps you'll notice that your HIDs don't work! Thats because we have to do a little magic with coding.

Step six: disable soft illumination
NFRM module - change WL_SL_1 to hart_einschalten (this removes the on/off fading for the angel eyes)

Step seven: disable angel eye bulb check
NFRM module - change CC_MELD_RL_BL_1_ALS_TFL to nicht_aktiv

Step eight: disable angel eye dimming
NFRM module - PWM_RL_BL_1_FKT_SL change value to wert_01

(OPTIONAL) Step nine: disable angel eye PWM

Read the NFRM module. Then take the NETTODAT file and make a copy to compare from.
Now change PWM_RL_BL_1_FKT_SL wert_01 to wert_06 and recode the car.
Now read the module again and compare this NETTODAT file to the last.
You'll find 2 bytes (values) that changed.
Then you change them:
[ 38 0E ]

Save this NETTODAT and recode using the NETTODAT instead of the normal MAN file.

Step ten: Enjoy, you're done!

just one question about Ballast:
LxLxH = 70mmx60mmx15mm is perfect in dimension ?
tnx

[Rotary Rasp]

not sure, I didn't measure.

[Rotary Rasp]

Here is a picture of my headlight after 6 months (8k miles)

As you can see, there is no discoloration from the HIDs.

[Alex@Alpine]

This was discussed before, I am not trying to involve myself or scare anyone off, I am just going to explain myself really quick.

Our AEs are not fused, they are electronically controlled, meaning the FRM senses a burn out and shuts power off, or if there is a surge it does exactly the same, I have Canbus ballast that plug directly in with out no coding and work. The head of the ballast holds a large capacitor that charges and powers the ballast.

So with this said, the reason we harness our kits is so there is no kicked back/feedback towards the FRM.

As I get a lot of Camaross old HID Angel Eye customers and they can tell you the method he was using to boost the power to power the harness over time would fry the FRM, the solder inside the FRM would melt and connect together and the passenger side would never turn off, only if you disconnected the battery.

For that reason we use direct power from the car, rather then powering it from the angel eye harness itself.

The FRM only senses WATTAGE spikes or dips, not VOLTAGE spikes or dips, so as the ballast is charging the 32v capacitors inside, it puts pressure back towards the car and the car has no clue what to do.

I am not here to argue with anyone or challenge anyone, this is my experience & opinion, I am sure many Camaross customers can speak to what happened to their FRMs after sometimes, connecting a ballast directly only speeds it up.

[Rotary Rasp]

The method that my solution uses is completely different then how Camaross HID kits worked. His kits did not increase the duty cycle and therefore ran at a (effective) lower voltage. The lower the voltage, the higher the current draw on the FRM.

I did before and after current measurements to make sure that the HIDs would not draw excess current.

Stock: 3.8 amps per side at 9 volts
DDM HID: 3.3 amps per side at 13 volts

The HIDs draw 0.5 amps less after coding.

I guess only time will tell. So far there have been ZERO failures, because believe me, if there was one, it would be posted here.

Originally Posted by Alex@Alpine

This was discussed before, I am not trying to involve myself or scare anyone off, I am just going to explain myself really quick.

Our AEs are not fused, they are electronically controlled, meaning the FRM senses a burn out and shuts power off, or if there is a surge it does exactly the same, I have Canbus ballast that plug directly in with out no coding and work. The head of the ballast holds a large capacitor that charges and powers the ballast.

So with this said, the reason we harness our kits is so there is no kicked back/feedback towards the FRM.

As I get a lot of Camaross old HID Angel Eye customers and they can tell you the method he was using to boost the power to power the harness over time would fry the FRM, the solder inside the FRM would melt and connect together and the passenger side would never turn off, only if you disconnected the battery.

For that reason we use direct power from the car, rather then powering it from the angel eye harness itself.

The FRM only senses WATTAGE spikes or dips, not VOLTAGE spikes or dips, so as the ballast is charging the 32v capacitors inside, it puts pressure back towards the car and the car has no clue what to do.

I am not here to argue with anyone or challenge anyone, this is my experience & opinion, I am sure many Camaross customers can speak to what happened to their FRMs after sometimes, connecting a ballast directly only speeds it up.