[tan_rich]

Originally Posted by RSL

Not a really cold start (111F ECT), but HPFP stays high forever. Did you drive or blip the throttle at the end? HPFP didn't even fall down to normal pressure until you did that.

The problem with 14.5 after shift is when it's not trimming and running 14.5. It doesn't do anything or care if you're or 5psi or 25psi.

Ooops this one is cold start, in the same set of logs. And yes i did blip the throttle at the end. This one is like 5 minutes after putting the sensors in and double checking theyre wired correctly.
The HPFP seems to be acting correcting when it hits 105 ECT since it seems to drop to the 600 level.
https://datazap.me/u/tanrich/cold-st...=1&data=3-6-24

I see, it does seem like a really weird issue. Maybe it has something to do with the tune.

Edit( So i dont post just another post lol)

Heres the stage 0 logs, they are actually acting correctly compared to the stage 2+. Overall i think everything looks good in both logs. LTFTS dont go into WOT and my AFR after shifts arent lean and the stfts are also acting post shift. I laugh at the fuel mode 6 since no cats . Though i realized i left off near redline on both these logs.

https://datazap.me/u/tanrich/log-151...og=1&data=3-25
https://datazap.me/u/tanrich/log-1517721704?log=2

Stage 0 Cruising
https://datazap.me/u/tanrich/log-151...ata=3-17-18-25

[montyt03]

Hey all, I was hoping to get help with a set of eyes that can take a look at my data logs and let me know if this map is working well with my system. At the moment I do not have a downpipe but I do have FMIC and DCI. I plan on purchasing the downpipe next and I used to use the JB4 until it stopped controlling my boost. So i am currently messing around with MHD

https://datazap.me/u/montyt03/datalo...23-24-25-26-27

[RSL]

Originally Posted by tan_rich

Ooops this one is cold start, in the same set of logs. And yes i did blip the throttle at the end. This one is like 5 minutes after putting the sensors in and double checking theyre wired correctly.
The HPFP seems to be acting correcting when it hits 105 ECT since it seems to drop to the 600 level.
https://datazap.me/u/tanrich/cold-st...=1&data=3-6-24

I see, it does seem like a really weird issue. Maybe it has something to do with the tune.

Edit( So i dont post just another post lol)

Heres the stage 0 logs, they are actually acting correctly compared to the stage 2+. Overall i think everything looks good in both logs. LTFTS dont go into WOT and my AFR after shifts arent lean and the stfts are also acting post shift. I laugh at the fuel mode 6 since no cats . Though i realized i left off near redline on both these logs.

https://datazap.me/u/tanrich/log-151...og=1&data=3-25
https://datazap.me/u/tanrich/log-1517721704?log=2

Stage 0 Cruising
https://datazap.me/u/tanrich/log-151...ata=3-17-18-25

The starting portion of LTFTs was low in the last of the 3 logs (22_29), did they stay there? They were high in the logs prior to it. Either way, LTFTs are not high well into boost, so that's some progress.

It shouldn't hit mode 6 at all. Whether you have cats to hurt or not, it's not triggered unless the DME doesn't like what it sees. I'm not sure what else triggers it aside from AFRs, but you don't seem rich or lean enough to be a problem...and it bounces in and out of 6 on one log.

Only the FTs really indicate something is wrong, it isn't translating into actual data (i.e. AFRs are OK) to make it something obvious. Did you pull the TMAP to see if it's covered in oil or anything? It almost seems like air/fuel mass or something really basic is off from the get go. Look at the v8 stage 2+ log posted above, that's what your trims should look like or reasonably similar. Similar ambient pressure and IATs.

@monty03 at least one double correction and multiple correcting in the same place. Might be the best that can be done on 91, but consider trying Stage 2 not + and see if it's any cleaner.

[tan_rich]

Originally Posted by RSL

The starting portion of LTFTs was low in the last of the 3 logs (22_29), did they stay there? They were high in the logs prior to it. Either way, LTFTs are not high well into boost, so that's some progress.

It shouldn't hit mode 6 at all. Whether you have cats to hurt or not, it's not triggered unless the DME doesn't like what it sees. I'm not sure what else triggers it aside from AFRs, but you don't seem rich or lean enough to be a problem...and it bounces in and out of 6 on one log.

Only the FTs really indicate something is wrong, it isn't translating into actual data (i.e. AFRs are OK) to make it something obvious. Did you pull the TMAP to see if it's covered in oil or anything? It almost seems like air/fuel mass or something really basic is off from the get go. Look at the v8 stage 2+ log posted above, that's what your trims should look like or reasonably similar. Similar ambient pressure and IATs.

@monty03 at least one double correction and multiple correcting in the same place. Might be the best that can be done on 91, but consider trying Stage 2 not + and see if it's any cleaner.

Took a few more logs for a friend that knows his stuff, so might as well post them here too.
Stage 0, 1 gear pull
https://datazap.me/u/tanrich/log-151...og=0&data=3-25
Stage 0, Multi gear pull
https://datazap.me/u/tanrich/log-151...og=1&data=3-25
Stage2+ V8, 1 gear pull
https://datazap.me/u/tanrich/log-151...og=0&data=3-25
Stage2+ V8, Multi gear pull
https://datazap.me/u/tanrich/log-151...og=1&data=3-25

Is there a reading or log for the tmap sensor? Also how would you go cleaning the tmap. Should i check the map sensor as well?

[RSL]

Just drive the rest of that tank without getting on it, yikes. Timing corrections are crazy on all those logs and HPFP nose dives to 1300psi on the 2+ map to 6200rpm.

[335e92tx]

Originally Posted by montyt03

Hey all, I was hoping to get help with a set of eyes that can take a look at my data logs and let me know if this map is working well with my system. At the moment I do not have a downpipe but I do have FMIC and DCI. I plan on purchasing the downpipe next and I used to use the JB4 until it stopped controlling my boost. So i am currently messing around with MHD

https://datazap.me/u/montyt03/datalo...23-24-25-26-27

Eh, not bad. but you only had about 3 seconds at WFO and it was only to about 4500rpm. So you wont see some of the dynamics from the DME in a log that brief. I dont see coolant temp logged. Was it at least 210degrees?

You will also see more timing retards in 4th gear after it gets more load. Try to run it third to at least 6000 and then shift fourth for about 4 to 5 secs. That will put a good load on it.

[torrque]

Originally Posted by RSL

I noticed you were light on the pedal, makes things difficult compared to steady state, but both banks jog lean (indicative of misfiring), it's messy and then just stops trimming altogether. At one area, goes through that RPM clean at 45% pedal/50% throttle, but not at 75%+ (no idea on pedal) on the other. The pedal/throttle are not mapped linear. Normal mode takes ~70% pedal for WOT, sport mode is 57% pedal.

Either way, definitely have some odds trims in places. Hell, if it does it consistently, don't reset the adaptations yet, tell the dealer about it and see if they'll diagnose it for you. If they declare and cover injectors (have an extended warranty), that's a big expense to save.

Dealer has no clue what it is either; he made me change the low pressure fuel sensor, saying it's that ( I had 2AAF code when I took it in...) ; I changed it for the sake of doing it, only takes 45 min anyway... Same problem. If anything, my low pressure is slightly higher now and steadier at 70+ , so something looks better. But it still stutters with warmed up...

Here is another log, where you can see clearly at the end, how I was flat out on pedal, and throttle closes down twice, resulting in 2 violent shakes. Now question is why is the throttle closing. If I can answer that question, I fixed the problem
Also strange how the stft differ greatly under load from bank 1 to bank 2 ; one is on positive the other is on negative, that is not normal ... O2 sensors ?
Many thanks for any input.

https://datazap.me/u/mhainal/log-151...zoom=2014-2763

[tan_rich]

Originally Posted by RSL

Just drive the rest of that tank without getting on it, yikes. Timing corrections are crazy on all those logs and HPFP nose dives to 1300psi on the 2+ map to 6200rpm.

The timing corrects are probably from the fuel injector cleaner I put in.

[335e92tx]

Originally Posted by tan_rich

The timing corrects are probably from the fuel injector cleaner I put in.

YEP, probably all kinds of heavier solvents in there that dont distribute linearly. Just let that stuff burn thru.

[tan_rich]

Originally Posted by 335e92tx

YEP, probably all kinds of heavier solvents in there that dont distribute linearly. Just let that stuff burn thru.

Yup, i was thinking the FT issue was injector related and well i guess some of the injector wouldnt hurt at this point.

Also for the TMAP, should i check both the MAP and TMAP? Im unsure of how to go cleaning it. Is there a log that we can set on MHD datalogger to check the MAP sensors?

On another note, did anyone know when you get e90post app notifications on your phone you get the in car chime! Thats pretty cool LOL...

[RSL]

Originally Posted by torrque

Dealer has no clue what it is either; he made me change the low pressure fuel sensor, saying it's that ( I had 2AAF code when I took it in...) ; I changed it for the sake of doing it, only takes 45 min anyway... Same problem. If anything, my low pressure is slightly higher now and steadier at 70+ , so something looks better. But it still stutters with warmed up...

Here is another log, where you can see clearly at the end, how I was flat out on pedal, and throttle closes down twice, resulting in 2 violent shakes. Now question is why is the throttle closing. If I can answer that question, I fixed the problem
Also strange how the stft differ greatly under load from bank 1 to bank 2 ; one is on positive the other is on negative, that is not normal ... O2 sensors ?
Many thanks for any input.

https://datazap.me/u/mhainal/log-151...zoom=2014-2763

Throttle is closing in some spots because boost exceeds target. Load actual is probably exceeding load request also and if some limits are set tight/stock, DME may cut. Get your boost control PID dialed in to stop the overshoots, get some space between the request/target or give your request some room to move. For starters, set your load limit factor to 0.100-0.110 if it's still stock, add requested load and actual load to your log parameters and do an actual WOT pull. 3rd @ 2500rpm, put the pedal down immediately and run WOT until 6000rpm unless it sputters again. Let off if it does.

The trims appear to split with a lot of cam overlap and you're not really helping that with how you operate the pedal. By the time you get close to 4000rpm actually WOT, they get much closer together, so may be a non-issue. They're both well within range and I wouldn't worry too much about the split right now unless you're running meth or TBI.

Originally Posted by tan_rich

The timing corrects are probably from the fuel injector cleaner I put in.

That's barely enough octane to run it as it is without diluting it further. Let the cleaner run out and wait until you have a fresh fill, preferably with a can of octane boost.

As for MAP, maybe INPA or a scanner that showed actual voltages for the sensor. Anything noticeably off would show in MAF actuals just like scaled tunes. As far as cleaning, I've never done it, but would just be a matter of pulling it and cleaning the sensor, if it's even caked. It's a long shot, but running out of ideas. Not sure what chemicals are safe on it. If you know anyone with another N54, could just do a quick swap.

Like that chime isn't annoying enough just in the car...

[335e92tx]

Originally Posted by RSL

As for MAP, maybe INPA or a scanner that showed actual voltages for the sensor. Anything noticeably off would show in MAF actuals just like scaled tunes. As far as cleaning, I've never done it, but would just be a matter of pulling it and cleaning the sensor, if it's even caked. It's a long shot, but running out of ideas. Not sure what chemicals are safe on it. If you know anyone with another N54, could just do a quick swap.

Like that chime isn't annoying enough just in the car...

I tried cleaning my TMAP when I had a surge. It looked bad at 95K miles. The map cleaner can is at a lower pressure so it doesnt cause the sensor to get blown out. So dont try anything else. I ended up getting a new sensor on ebay for 95$

[torrque]

Originally Posted by RSL

Throttle is closing in some spots because boost exceeds target. Load actual is probably exceeding load request also and if some limits are set tight/stock, DME may cut. Get your boost control PID dialed in to stop the overshoots, get some space between the request/target or give your request some room to move. For starters, set your load limit factor to 0.100-0.110 if it's still stock, add requested load and actual load to your log parameters and do an actual WOT pull. 3rd @ 2500rpm, put the pedal down immediately and run WOT until 6000rpm unless it sputters again. Let off if it does.

The trims appear to split with a lot of cam overlap and you're not really helping that with how you operate the pedal. By the time you get close to 4000rpm actually WOT, they get much closer together, so may be a non-issue. They're both well within range and I wouldn't worry too much about the split right now unless you're running meth or TBI.

That's barely enough octane to run it as it is without diluting it further. Let the cleaner run out and wait until you have a fresh fill, preferably with a can of octane boost.

As for MAP, maybe INPA or a scanner that showed actual voltages for the sensor. Anything noticeably off would show in MAF actuals just like scaled tunes. As far as cleaning, I've never done it, but would just be a matter of pulling it and cleaning the sensor, if it's even caked. It's a long shot, but running out of ideas. Not sure what chemicals are safe on it. If you know anyone with another N54, could just do a quick swap.

Like that chime isn't annoying enough just in the car...

But my boost value is always way behind target, like less than half of target... If you look at torque value, you can see the dips in between gear changes, that's when it stutters... How do I set load limit factor .1 or the like ? I am not tuned for now, this is stock OEM map... Thanks a lot!

[tan_rich]

Originally Posted by RSL

That's barely enough octane to run it as it is without diluting it further. Let the cleaner run out and wait until you have a fresh fill, preferably with a can of octane boost.

As for MAP, maybe INPA or a scanner that showed actual voltages for the sensor. Anything noticeably off would show in MAF actuals just like scaled tunes. As far as cleaning, I've never done it, but would just be a matter of pulling it and cleaning the sensor, if it's even caked. It's a long shot, but running out of ideas. Not sure what chemicals are safe on it. If you know anyone with another N54, could just do a quick swap.

Like that chime isn't annoying enough just in the car...

Originally Posted by 335e92tx

I tried cleaning my TMAP when I had a surge. It looked bad at 95K miles. The map cleaner can is at a lower pressure so it doesnt cause the sensor to get blown out. So dont try anything else. I ended up getting a new sensor on ebay for 95$

Heard some bad things about octane booster(i.e fouling of the plugs). Any recommendations of octane boosters?
Im running out of ideas as well. Im having a friend that works at a shop check out the car. Worse case id have to remove everything and bring it to the dealer.

Hmm i need to get inpa. Might just give it a quick wipe down and check it that it seems okay.

[RSL]

Originally Posted by torrque

But my boost value is always way behind target, like less than half of target... If you look at torque value, you can see the dips in between gear changes, that's when it stutters... How do I set load limit factor .1 or the like ? I am not tuned for now, this is stock OEM map... Thanks a lot!

At cruise, boost target will be 0 and engine running in vacuum, so boost will be significantly below it, but in boost, it's a different story. Look between the marks in the log below. Load request and load actual would usually follow suit, with actual being over request in those places too. Throttle closures are normal safety behavior from the DME. I thought you were self-tuning. If not, skip it. It really shouldn't be a large enough overage to cause issues, just closures.

https://datazap.me/u/mhainal/log-151...2428-2452-2456

Your indicated gears look odd to me in places, but may be an MT thing. If the part in the log below is a shift, gear goes from 2nd to 0 (STFTs stop trimming at the same time), then up to 3rd, back to 0, then back to 3rd. Not sure if clutch position or anything else factors in, but indicated gear is just a ratio vs. speed.

If the problem is only at shift, I highly recommend seeking help from people experienced with MTs, they have their very set own quirks (shift bogs, DMFW noise, etc.) compared to AT/DCTs that I'm not well-versed on.

https://datazap.me/u/mhainal/log-151...2452-2456-2650

Originally Posted by tan_rich

Heard some bad things about octane booster(i.e fouling of the plugs). Any recommendations of octane boosters?
Im running out of ideas as well. Im having a friend that works at a shop check out the car. Worse case id have to remove everything and bring it to the dealer.

Hmm i need to get inpa. Might just give it a quick wipe down and check it that it seems okay.

I wouldn't run it all the time. I've used 1 can once in my life (NOS, but anything with MMT should be effective) and it did make a difference compared to the craptastic "93" I normally run. It will turn your plugs orange and probably exhaust tips if you run it enough, but would help clean up the corrections and possibly take one part of the mess off the table. IF you're going to add a can, don't while the injector cleaner gas is in there. Change the oil after this tank and do 1 tank of just gas before adding booster.

[tan_rich]

Originally Posted by RSL

I wouldn't run it all the time. I've used 1 can once in my life (NOS, but anything with MMT should be effective) and it did make a difference compared to the craptastic "93" I normally run. It will turn your plugs orange and probably exhaust tips if you run it enough, but would help clean up the corrections and possibly take one part of the mess off the table. IF you're going to add a can, don't while the injector cleaner gas is in there. Change the oil after this tank and do 1 tank of just gas before adding booster.

I see, yeah i would prefer my plugs not to turn the shade of an oompa loomp lol!. Ill fill up with 100 octane from the station and see if that solves anything. Good time for me to switch to rotella t6 5w-40 since i found out i can get 5 gallons for about 16$+5$ rebate from Castrol Edge 5W-40.

[torrque]

Originally Posted by RSL

At cruise, boost target will be 0 and engine running in vacuum, so boost will be significantly below it, but in boost, it's a different story. Look between the marks in the log below. Load request and load actual would usually follow suit, with actual being over request in those places too. Throttle closures are normal safety behavior from the DME. I thought you were self-tuning. If not, skip it. It really shouldn't be a large enough overage to cause issues, just closures.

https://datazap.me/u/mhainal/log-151...2428-2452-2456

Your indicated gears look odd to me in places, but may be an MT thing. If the part in the log below is a shift, gear goes from 2nd to 0 (STFTs stop trimming at the same time), then up to 3rd, back to 0, then back to 3rd. Not sure if clutch position or anything else factors in, but indicated gear is just a ratio vs. speed.

If the problem is only at shift, I highly recommend seeking help from people experienced with MTs, they have their very set own quirks (shift bogs, DMFW noise, etc.) compared to AT/DCTs that I'm not well-versed on.

Thanks a lot; appreciated. My problem is only at load, never during or at shifting... If you look at torque value, you see it dropping a couple of times to zero, that's when it stutters and shakes. Edit: For what it's worth, I checked the coils, and they were a mix of old and newer coils, all Bosch, some as old as 08. I bought a new set of Delphi's, so we'll see what gives. I don't have any misfires or misfire codes; I am curious if anyone had misfire behavior without throwing codes in fact...

[Christian87n]

Hey everyone. I've been having this recurring 2c32 code pop up since I had my DPs installed. When they were installed, the rear O2 sensors were switched. That was fixed and the car ran great for weeks. No dp fix was ever installed. Around Christmas time, I accelerated a little aggressive to avoid a rear end impact from a distracted driver. After I resumed my normal speed, the car began to stumble and turned on the check engine light. The following are the codes I pulled: 29cd, 29ce, 29cf, 2c32, and 2d5a. There was no room to pull over on the highway, so I ran a few logs.

https://datazap.me/u/christian87n/po...log-switch-afr

https://datazap.me/u/christian87n/wa...og=0&data=3-21

Both show weird AFR patters. The first one has one bank running rich with the other running very lean, then they flip flop. I have no idea idea whats causing that. The second log shows an oscillating AFR pattern with bank 1 being the one that can't stay still. My understanding is that it’s normal for the oscillation to occur during cruise in closed loop. I eventually pulled over and cleared the codes. By then, the engine was running smooth again.

Fast forward to today and I still get the 2c32 code. On Saturday, while accelerating moderately, the car turned on the check engine gone light again and gave me the following codes: 2c32, 2c39, 2c3a. I cleared those codes and ran a log without resetting adaptations.

https://datazap.me/u/christian87n/fe...og=0&data=3-23

Tonight, I have the following codes: 2c2b and 2c32.

My 335is has the following mods: Wagner stage 2comp intercooler, VRSF dp, TFT inlets and chargepipe, TIAL BOV, and running stage 0 mhd while I do all of the preventative maintenance before getting a custom tune. I have done adaptation resets in the past and the 2c32 code keeps popping up. Before I start sinking money into parts that may or may not fix the issue, does anyone have an idea of what may be going on? Thanks in advance!

[RSL]

Originally Posted by torrque

Thanks a lot; appreciated. My problem is only at load, never during or at shifting... If you look at torque value, you see it dropping a couple of times to zero, that's when it stutters and shakes. Edit: For what it's worth, I checked the coils, and they were a mix of old and newer coils, all Bosch, some as old as 08. I bought a new set of Delphi's, so we'll see what gives. I don't have any misfires or misfire codes; I am curious if anyone had misfire behavior without throwing codes in fact...

OK, add requested load, load actual and torque limiter active the next time you log. If you can, get a log of just one instance and then stop recording...trees are getting lost in the forest.

Originally Posted by Christian87n

Hey everyone. I've been having this recurring 2c32 code pop up since I had my DPs installed. When they were installed, the rear O2 sensors were switched. That was fixed and the car ran great for weeks. No dp fix was ever installed. Around Christmas time, I accelerated a little aggressive to avoid a rear end impact from a distracted driver. After I resumed my normal speed, the car began to stumble and turned on the check engine light. The following are the codes I pulled: 29cd, 29ce, 29cf, 2c32, and 2d5a. There was no room to pull over on the highway, so I ran a few logs.

https://datazap.me/u/christian87n/po...log-switch-afr

https://datazap.me/u/christian87n/wa...og=0&data=3-21

Both show weird AFR patters. The first one has one bank running rich with the other running very lean, then they flip flop. I have no idea what would cause that. The second log shows an oscillating AFR pattern with bank 1 being the one that can't stay still. My understanding is that it could be what is shown during closed loop while at cruise. I eventually pulled over and cleared the codes. By then, the engine was running smooth again.

Fast forward to today and I still get the 2c32 code. On Saturday, while accelerating moderately, the car turned on the check engine gone light again and gave me the following codes: 2c32, 2c39, 2c3a. I cleared those codes and ran a log without resetting adaptations.

https://datazap.me/u/christian87n/fe...og=0&data=3-23

Tonight, I have the following codes: 2c2b and 2c32.

My 335is has the following mods: Wagner stage 2comp intercooler, VRSF dp, TFT inlets and chargepipe, TIAL BOV, and running stage 0 mhd while I do all of the preventative maintenance before getting a custom tune. I have done adaptation resets in the past and the 2c32 code keeps popping up. Before I start sinking money into parts that may or may not fix the issue, does anyone have an idea of what may be going on? Thanks in advance!

It's like a 335is trim pandemic up in here lol Try resetting adaptations since your swapped the wires back? Are you sure they're in the right locations now?

Need to fix your links here, the URLs are the truncated ones from copy/paste.

[Christian87n]

Originally Posted by RSL

OK, add requested load, load actual and torque limiter active the next time you log. If you can, get a log of just one instance and then stop recording...trees are getting lost in the forest.

It's like a 335is trim pandemic up in here lol Try resetting adaptations since your swapped the wires back? Are you sure they're in the right locations now?

Need to fix your links here, the URLs are the truncated ones from copy/paste.

Sorry about that! Lol I’ve updated my links and post but here they are in the same order:


https://datazap.me/u/christian87n/po...log-switch-afr

https://datazap.me/u/christian87n/wa...og=0&data=3-21


https://datazap.me/u/christian87n/fe...og=0&data=3-23


We’ve checked the wires and sensors and they are in the correct location. I’ve reset adaptations several times in the past and the problem keeps coming back. I’ll be checking the clamps to the DPs next in case I have an exhaust leak.

[RSL]

That would need to be a sizeable leak, and still not sure it would impact the AFRs unless it was a pressure or temp issue on the sensor(s). I can't believe several in a row seem to have the same issue after DP install recently with nothing else obviously wrong.

If I had to chase stuff this far on my car, I would've done a full write back to the actual stock bin and then swapped the stock DPs back on to test if the stock bin didn't fix it.

Have any of you tried flashing with the stock DP option selected? You should get cat efficiency CELs, but wondering if maybe the default flash is disabling the rear O2 sensors too? It's a stretch, but I'm nearly out of ideas...

[tan_rich]

Originally Posted by RSL

That would need to be a sizeable leak, and still not sure it would impact the AFRs unless it was a pressure or temp issue on the sensor(s). I can't believe several in a row seem to have the same issue after DP install recently with nothing else obviously wrong.

If I had to chase stuff this far on my car, I would've done a full write back to the actual stock bin and then swapped the stock DPs back on to test if the stock bin didn't fix it.

Have any of you tried flashing with the stock DP option selected? You should get cat efficiency CELs, but wondering if maybe the default flash is disabling the rear O2 sensors too? It's a stretch, but I'm nearly out of ideas...

Im taking it to my friend that works at a bmw performance shop to diagnose for tomorrow. If that doesnt work I will put everything back to stock and go to dealer if need be LOL. This trim issue is killing me.

That is actually a good idea. After this tank of fuel injector cleaner i will run stage 0 map for a while with adaptation reset to see if that solves anything. If im okay on the stage 0 map then it should point to my injectors and the fuel scalar not working for me.