[RSL]

I'd try anything at this point, definitely seems like something with the rear O2 sensor(s) though. If they're not in the wrong plugs, maybe one or both were damaged somehow during the install. Make sure he tests the rear sensors and the signal the DME is getting from them. Even if the sensors are good, might be a hiccup between them and the DME.

[tan_rich]

Originally Posted by RSL

I'd try anything at this point, definitely seems like something with the rear O2 sensor(s) though. If they're not in the wrong plugs, maybe one or both were damaged somehow during the install. Make sure he tests the rear sensors and the signal the DME is getting from them. Even if the sensors are good, might be a hiccup between them and the DME.

Originally Posted by RSL

I'd try anything at this point, definitely seems like something with the rear O2 sensor(s) though. If they're not in the wrong plugs, maybe one or both were damaged somehow during the install. Make sure he tests the rear sensors and the signal the DME is getting from them. Even if the sensors are good, might be a hiccup between them and the DME.

If the issue is the rear o2 sensor I doubt I could get it warrantied anytime soon since they would require an error code. And for some reason the 29e0 and 2c31 isn't coming back but the fuel trims are definitely pegged. Well ltft1 is around 20% and ltft2 is around 10%. Ltft2 May be working correct but the DME May be making them meet halfway.
If the DME is the problem then oh joy, unsure of how the I'll get that warrantied lol.

Edit:
I'm not sure if it matters but what about the position of the o2 sensors in the downpipes. I have BMS downpipes that I got used and what if their position is just bad? I don't remember where but I recalled reading that some set of downpipes had bad o2 sensor position but that is most likely from inaccurate info I read a while back.

[335e92tx]

Originally Posted by RSL

It's like a 335is trim pandemic up in here lol Try resetting adaptations since your swapped the wires back? Are you sure they're in the right locations now?

Need to fix your links here, the URLs are the truncated ones from copy/paste.

You're a bigger man than me diving into that lions den..

;-)

[Christian87n]

Originally Posted by RSL

That would need to be a sizeable leak, and still not sure it would impact the AFRs unless it was a pressure or temp issue on the sensor(s). I can't believe several in a row seem to have the same issue after DP install recently with nothing else obviously wrong.

If I had to chase stuff this far on my car, I would've done a full write back to the actual stock bin and then swapped the stock DPs back on to test if the stock bin didn't fix it.

Have any of you tried flashing with the stock DP option selected? You should get cat efficiency CELs, but wondering if maybe the default flash is disabling the rear O2 sensors too? It's a stretch, but I'm nearly out of ideas...

It’s definitely worth a try. What do you believe would cause my AFR to act the way it did on my first log?

[torrque]

Originally Posted by Christian87n

Hey everyone. I've been having this recurring 2c32 code pop up since I had my DPs installed. When they were installed, the rear O2 sensors were switched. That was fixed and the car ran great for weeks. No dp fix was ever installed. Around Christmas time, I accelerated a little aggressive to avoid a rear end impact from a distracted driver. After I resumed my normal speed, the car began to stumble and turned on the check engine light. The following are the codes I pulled: 29cd, 29ce, 29cf, 2c32, and 2d5a. There was no room to pull over on the highway, so I ran a few logs.

https://datazap.me/u/christian87n/po...log-switch-afr

https://datazap.me/u/christian87n/wa...og=0&data=3-21

Both show weird AFR patters. The first one has one bank running rich with the other running very lean, then they flip flop. I have no idea idea whats causing that. The second log shows an oscillating AFR pattern with bank 1 being the one that can't stay still. My understanding is that it’s normal for the oscillation to occur during cruise in closed loop. I eventually pulled over and cleared the codes. By then, the engine was running smooth again.

Fast forward to today and I still get the 2c32 code. On Saturday, while accelerating moderately, the car turned on the check engine gone light again and gave me the following codes: 2c32, 2c39, 2c3a. I cleared those codes and ran a log without resetting adaptations.

https://datazap.me/u/christian87n/fe...og=0&data=3-23

Tonight, I have the following codes: 2c2b and 2c32.

My 335is has the following mods: Wagner stage 2comp intercooler, VRSF dp, TFT inlets and chargepipe, TIAL BOV, and running stage 0 mhd while I do all of the preventative maintenance before getting a custom tune. I have done adaptation resets in the past and the 2c32 code keeps popping up. Before I start sinking money into parts that may or may not fix the issue, does anyone have an idea of what may be going on? Thanks in advance!

I don't know about others, but I don't see your logs at all... just a blank page; check links ?

[Christian87n]

Originally Posted by torrque

I don't know about others, but I don't see your logs at all... just a blank page; check links ?

Odd. I fixed them earlier and when I click on them, they work fine. Either way, try these. They’re in the same order.

https://datazap.me/u/christian87n/po...og=0&data=3-21

https://datazap.me/u/christian87n/wa...og=0&data=3-21

https://datazap.me/u/christian87n/fe...og=0&data=3-23

Just in case there’s be a question regarding rpm and boost for the first two logs: For the first log, the rpm is all over the place. i was creeping along with traffic during that log. The second log shows the same but for the boost. It was probably due to the grade of the road.

Hope these links work!

[RSL]

Originally Posted by tan_rich

If the issue is the rear o2 sensor I doubt I could get it warrantied anytime soon since they would require an error code. And for some reason the 29e0 and 2c31 isn't coming back but the fuel trims are definitely pegged. Well ltft1 is around 20% and ltft2 is around 10%. Ltft2 May be working correct but the DME May be making them meet halfway.
If the DME is the problem then oh joy, unsure of how the I'll get that warrantied lol.

Edit:
I'm not sure if it matters but what about the position of the o2 sensors in the downpipes. I have BMS downpipes that I got used and what if their position is just bad? I don't remember where but I recalled reading that some set of downpipes had bad o2 sensor position but that is most likely from inaccurate info I read a while back.

Let's see what your guy says first, might be something totally different. If you're not getting on it, the trims aren't moving like they were, could probably pop the light again driving differently.

The position would probably have more to do with potential condensation collection than measurement. It doesn't need to be the DME either, could be a wire between or a pin on a connection. Hope your guy pegs the issue.

Originally Posted by 335e92tx

You're a bigger man than me diving into that lions den..

;-)

Funny thing is, after almost 4 years on high-flow catted, installed catless last week just to finally verify what I figured all along. Like I thought, zip on any difference lol I have no issues on mine yet, but I don't like their fitment as much as the Cobbs.

Originally Posted by Christian87n

It’s definitely worth a try. What do you believe would cause my AFR to act the way it did on my first log?

Not fully sure, that could've just been a normal adaptation operation. DME fully opens WGs occasionally for a short period to reduce swirl when it's actively making AFR checks for injector delivery. Since it does one, then the other and things go back to normal, would be my first guess.

If you ever hear your exhaust briefly get loud out of nowhere for a few seconds and then quiet back down, that's what causes it. It has condition triggers to activate (i.e. ECT, etc.), usually occurs early in drives after starting at cruise or constantly light throttle.

[torrque]

Originally Posted by RSL

OK, add requested load, load actual and torque limiter active the next time you log. If you can, get a log of just one instance and then stop recording...trees are getting lost in the forest.

Here is a log where I monitored those 3, and I stopped it right after a stutter happened... You can see the drop in torque value right at the end of the graph, that's when it is. Also, my max boost is very low at 5PSI I think, even for stock map... Definitely no fueling issues me thinks, as both pumps and both sensors are spanking new. Something else is tripping it; we'll see how it runs with new coils...

Many thanks

https://datazap.me/u/mhainal/log-151...8&zoom=241-324

[tan_rich]

Originally Posted by RSL

Let's see what your guy says first, might be something totally different. If you're not getting on it, the trims aren't moving like they were, could probably pop the light again driving differently.

The position would probably have more to do with potential condensation collection than measurement. It doesn't need to be the DME either, could be a wire between or a pin on a connection. Hope your guy pegs the issue.

Just got back, friend says from what he saw it is really weird but i shouldn't worry too much unless the code pops back up again. He did say the post shift FT are really weird but he says to wait till the fuel injector cleaner runs through to confirm. His best suspect is the fuel injectors and says when i can try to get them replaced. Though he also says an exhaust leak is not out of the question.

He did a full adaptation reset and says if the code comes back up to just show up and hell deal with it.

[RSL]

Originally Posted by torrque

Here is a log where I monitored those 3, and I stopped it right after a stutter happened... You can see the drop in torque value right at the end of the graph, that's when it is. Also, my max boost is very low at 5PSI I think, even for stock map... Definitely no fueling issues me thinks, as both pumps and both sensors are spanking new. Something else is tripping it; we'll see how it runs with new coils...

Many thanks

https://datazap.me/u/mhainal/log-151...8&zoom=241-324

Whatever it is, this seems to be where it begins (marked). Requested load shoots up for a record out of nowhere and then falls lower than before the spike. LTFTs 0 out for same record, then continue, but STFTs stop at that point. LPFP and HPFP rise, probably moving to limp mode defaults.

EDIT: tick mark is off when it opens, just look for the requested load spike:
https://datazap.me/u/mhainal/log-151...8-324&mark=312

It has all the look of a load limit, but not sure that it is one. Maybe some other monitor. Everything stops, goes open loop and craps out shortly after. No timing correction, but a timing dip, WGDC drop, no torque limiter, etc. If you had all cyls logged for timing, money is that they all drop the exact same way in the exact same place.

The load limits I've seen have a dip in requested load, not a spike, so this is new to me. I've only ever seen them at WOT anyway, but it's hitting something that's causing the DME to react. The root of it might that requested load spike. Keep load request and actual load in your logging params while you continue your testing. If that request spike turns up repeatedly before the sputter, pretty safe to say that's the cause and then need to figure out what's causing that.

You are on your stock rom, correct?

Originally Posted by tan_rich

Just got back, friend says from what he saw it is really weird but i shouldn't worry too much unless the code pops back up again. He did say the post shift FT are really weird but he says to wait till the fuel injector cleaner runs through to confirm. His best suspect is the fuel injectors and says when i can try to get them replaced. Though he also says an exhaust leak is not out of the question.

He did a full adaptation reset and says if the code comes back up to just show up and hell deal with it.

Definitely odd. Never rule injectors on these and exhaust leak would conceivably impact it, but I'd suspect that's way down the list. If you're not smelling exhaust in the cabin when you start it with the windows rolled up, doubtful there's anything coming from between the DP/turbine. Did you re-use the gaskets for those connections?

[tan_rich]

Originally Posted by RSL

Definitely odd. Never rule injectors on these and exhaust leak would conceivably impact it, but I'd suspect that's way down the list. If you're not smelling exhaust in the cabin when you start it with the windows rolled up, doubtful there's anything coming from between the DP/turbine. Did you re-use the gaskets for those connections?

I doubt its an exhaust leak as well. No smell in the cabin and i did reuse the oem gasket. Next time im doing the downpipes im definitely getting new gaskets as those gaskets were shot!. However i googled around and people seem to just reuse them and the midpipe to downpipe are the ones to worry about.

If this was a MAF car, it would make the issue easier to track down since a lean issue would definitely mean somewhere between the MAF sensor and the cylinder but such is the n54 struggle.
Possible causes:
Injectors (Most likely)
MAP sensors
O2 sensors(Unlikely)

Edit: Just a thought for when you see it in the morning.
What if there is a crack in the intake manifold. Air could be going in then causing the lean issue at idle and cruising and being normal on WOT. Just an idea, whats your take on it.

Edit2: From someone else
Exhaust system leak up near the O2's (within a foot or two), check the downpipe install for a good seal. We usually use our smoke machine to pressure the exhaust system from the tailpipes blocked off with rags etc. With the car on a lift and plenty of light ( a hand held searchlight works best).

At part throttle exhaust system leaks up near the engine will push/pull meaning when it's not pushing fumes out it can and will suck fresh air with plenty of Oxygen back in. This throws part throttle fuel trims lean. At heavy throttle the pressure inside the pipes mean a constant outflow of gasses and more accurate readings.

Give it a look and good luck, hard to see in that area.
Vernon[

[Paanzerfaust]

So just a quick question here - I don't have a log to post but...

When running the monitor, what is the "actual boost" value supposed to be when not going full throttle/just driving or idling. Mine dipped down into the negatives, this is my first turbo car so I don't know if that's normal or if I have a leak somewhere but it freaked me out a bit.

Mean boost and target boost numbers looked normal while monitoring and I don't have any codes, car seems to run fine too.

[Haynpunch]

Originally Posted by Paanzerfaust

So just a quick question here - I don't have a log to post but...

When running the monitor, what is the "actual boost" value supposed to be when not going full throttle/just driving or idling. Mine dipped down into the negatives, this is my first turbo car so I don't know if that's normal or if I have a leak somewhere but it freaked me out a bit.

Mean boost and target boost numbers looked normal while monitoring and I don't have any codes, car seems to run fine too.

actual boost vary with throttle. if you are idling itll be negative because its under vacuum

[torrque]

Originally Posted by RSL

You are on your stock rom, correct?

Yes, stock ROM. There is *something* that starts playing as soon as it warms up. At cold, as I start, drives perfectly normal for 5 min, until you start seeing some change in oil temperature, or slightly earlier. When it was really cold in 20's here, I barely felt it. Now that it warmed up, it only takes 3-4 minutes until it starts to shake.

Best way to replicate is to keep steady throttle, RPM's at 3-4k and lower gear (more torque); it will buck on and off once every 30 seconds or so.

I wish I had an error code, so I can fix it once and for all.... The lack of codes is killing me. OH, and this is the second DME (MSD81); replaced the original as a mechanic did a bad diagnosis and recommended that....
Well, I am throwing new coils tomorrow, and see what gives.

Many thanks

[RSL]

Originally Posted by tan_rich

I doubt its an exhaust leak as well. No smell in the cabin and i did reuse the oem gasket. Next time im doing the downpipes im definitely getting new gaskets as those gaskets were shot!. However i googled around and people seem to just reuse them and the midpipe to downpipe are the ones to worry about.

If this was a MAF car, it would make the issue easier to track down since a lean issue would definitely mean somewhere between the MAF sensor and the cylinder but such is the n54 struggle.
Possible causes:
Injectors (Most likely)
MAP sensors
O2 sensors(Unlikely)

Edit: Just a thought for when you see it in the morning.
What if there is a crack in the intake manifold. Air could be going in then causing the lean issue at idle and cruising and being normal on WOT. Just an idea, whats your take on it.

Edit2: From someone else
Exhaust system leak up near the O2's (within a foot or two), check the downpipe install for a good seal. We usually use our smoke machine to pressure the exhaust system from the tailpipes blocked off with rags etc. With the car on a lift and plenty of light ( a hand held searchlight works best).

At part throttle exhaust system leaks up near the engine will push/pull meaning when it's not pushing fumes out it can and will suck fresh air with plenty of Oxygen back in. This throws part throttle fuel trims lean. At heavy throttle the pressure inside the pipes mean a constant outflow of gasses and more accurate readings.

Give it a look and good luck, hard to see in that area.
Vernon[

Intake pressure/smoke test should be a part of it, plenty of places for air to sneak in/escape. Intake manifolds are pretty stout, if there is a leak anywhere around there, it would be a o-ring where it connects to the head. If there were any sizeable leaks though, would probably show in your idle "boost" reading.

I don't have any fancy for finding exhaust leaks. If it's big enough, you'll hear it over other engine noises. If I suspect, but don't hear one, I just use a length of hose like a stethoscope. One end to my ear and poke around exhaust connections with the other. Works like a charm every time.

Originally Posted by torrque

Yes, stock ROM. There is *something* that starts playing as soon as it warms up. At cold, as I start, drives perfectly normal for 5 min, until you start seeing some change in oil temperature, or slightly earlier. When it was really cold in 20's here, I barely felt it. Now that it warmed up, it only takes 3-4 minutes until it starts to shake.

Best way to replicate is to keep steady throttle, RPM's at 3-4k and lower gear (more torque); it will buck on and off once every 30 seconds or so.

I wish I had an error code, so I can fix it once and for all.... The lack of codes is killing me. OH, and this is the second DME (MSD81); replaced the original as a mechanic did a bad diagnosis and recommended that....
Well, I am throwing new coils tomorrow, and see what gives.

Many thanks

Temp plays a big role in a lot of things on these. There are so many offsets and factors that are temp related from IATs to ECT to cylinder temps to EGTs, it's not even funny. Many operations have completely separate cold values aside from offsets.

I assume everything was properly coded for the DME swap. Are you using a rom that was in the new DME, was your original flashed to the new one or did you build a stock one from MHD? Make a back-up of the current rom using MHD and store it outside the MHD folder so you have a complete copy and then I might try building a new IJE0S via MHD and see if that does anything at all. Another long shot, but quick to try.

No flash time options set like WG rattle or linear throttle?

[torrque]

Originally Posted by RSL

Temp plays a big role in a lot of things on these. There are so many offsets and factors that are temp related from IATs to ECT to cylinder temps to EGTs, it's not even funny. Many operations have completely separate cold values aside from offsets.

I assume everything was properly coded for the DME swap. Are you using a rom that was in the new DME, was your original flashed to the new one or did you build a stock one from MHD? Make a back-up of the current rom using MHD and store it outside the MHD folder so you have a complete copy and then I might try building a new IJE0S via MHD and see if that does anything at all. Another long shot, but quick to try.

No flash time options set like WG rattle or linear throttle?

Yep, DME was lined up with CAS using INPA by a technician... Knowing what I know now, I can do it myself (got INPA-D and INpa-P meanwhile) if I want to revert to old DME. Running original map from the DME (I have a backup of it in MHD).
No flash time options or anything like that.

Thing is, the DME was suspected for this problem, and is the reason I swapped it. Problem is exactly the same after DME swap, so it can't be it...

Thanks a lot.

[lploutz23]

Anyone care to give me a second opinion on these logs? Just switched from Cobb v3 to MHD and was trying out the stage 2 v8 beta map on 93 oct. I feel like I have a lot of timing correction and car is running a little lean. Any ideas on what could be going on?

https://datazap.me/u/lploutz23/mhd-s...og=0&data=3-24

[RSL]

Originally Posted by torrque

Yep, DME was lined up with CAS using INPA by a technician... Knowing what I know now, I can do it myself (got INPA-D and INpa-P meanwhile) if I want to revert to old DME. Running original map from the DME (I have a backup of it in MHD).
No flash time options or anything like that.

Thing is, the DME was suspected for this problem, and is the reason I swapped it. Problem is exactly the same after DME swap, so it can't be it...

Thanks a lot.

Figured that was case, was curious if the rom was the same on both DMEs or not. When did the issue start? You've obviously been chasing it a bit. Any changes prior to it acting up?

Originally Posted by lploutz23

Anyone care to give me a second opinion on these logs? Just switched from Cobb v3 to MHD and was trying out the stage 2 v8 beta map on 93 oct. I feel like I have a lot of timing correction and car is running a little lean. Any ideas on what could be going on?

https://datazap.me/u/lploutz23/mhd-s...og=0&data=3-24

Kinda lean after shifts and some RPM/loads, but on boost looks fine. Pretty large positive trims that more or less align with the timing corrections. No new corrections started under boost that I see, part-throttle lower loads seem like the trouble spots. If you just uninstalled AP3 and just flashed MHD, try resetting adaptations since it learned on the previous map, which may have very different settings.

2nd gear is kind of short for logging...

[tan_rich]

Originally Posted by RSL

Intake pressure/smoke test should be a part of it, plenty of places for air to sneak in/escape. Intake manifolds are pretty stout, if there is a leak anywhere around there, it would be a o-ring where it connects to the head. If there were any sizeable leaks though, would probably show in your idle "boost" reading.

I don't have any fancy for finding exhaust leaks. If it's big enough, you'll hear it over other engine noises. If I suspect, but don't hear one, I just use a length of hose like a stethoscope. One end to my ear and poke around exhaust connections with the other. Works like a charm every time.

Thanks for the suggestion. One way I found was to get an inexpensive smoke machine from party city and a small ball pump and pressurize the system that way. Use a cheap silicone compiler from vatozone connect to tail pipe with smoke and pump. I'll try it if I still have a problem after reposition the downpipes.

[torrque]

Originally Posted by RSL

Figured that was case, was curious if the rom was the same on both DMEs or not. When did the issue start? You've obviously been chasing it a bit. Any changes prior to it acting up?

Well, I bought it faulty for a few G less... I always fixed my cars on my own and I never had such a stubborn problem yet... The guy dumped close to 6G's in summer on it for new injectors, battery, alternator, water pump, thermostat, plugs, oil seals, intake valve cleaning, and last diagnosis was faulty DME and he gave up (did all work at shops, he wasn't handy), so that's when I took it over. I thought if DME is only issue, no biggie, 500 bucks or less. It turned out to be something else, and here I am. But not giving up

[torrque]

I just had this crazy idea; flash stage MHD stage 1 map, which will increase the load on the faulty components, and will fail quicker. Hopefully I get a code of some sort and take it from there. I would prefer it it wouldn't start, than having this intermittent problem. What do you think about this?

[Cuprani]

Can someone please take a look at my log:
https://datazap.me/u/cuprani/mhd-sta...25-28-29-30-31

Running FBO at RON102.
I was hoping to have a little more power output, but I'm running a little low on boost I think. I've been on the dyno doing 395 engine hp and 595 NM. A have a brand new set of original BMW turbo's.

Outside air temperature was 3°C during this run.