[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by Persian Whisperjet

A bit OT, but I was spelunking around under the airbox looking for the reason why my Blackstone results are showing relatively high levels of silica, and saw what looks like some missing studs/nuts on the turbo. Can anyone tell me what I am looking at in this cellphone pic? Car is an 11. Thanks.

See #17/18 here: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_6503

Those pieces help compress and hold the charge air pipes in place. Realoem shows 4 of these combo pieces holding the 2 charge pipes. There were 4 of those on my installation when I removed the turbos.

The connection that you are showing only had 1 set of #17/18 on my car, and it was on the adjacent side from the hole you're showing (so I didn't have a set on the side you're showing either). Do you have a #17/18 on the adjacent side of that pipe connection in your car?

[Persian Whisperjet]

TDI thanks! Let me see if I can get my arm/cellphone down there tonight and see what is on the other side. I think there is a bolt on it.

[fsd350]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

See #17/18 here: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_6503

Those pieces help compress and hold the charge air pipes in place. Realoem shows 4 of these combo pieces holding the 2 charge pipes. There were 4 of those on my installation when I removed the turbos.

The connection that you are showing only had 1 set of #17/18 on my car, and it was on the adjacent side from the hole you're showing (so I didn't have a set on the side you're showing either). Do you have a #17/18 on the adjacent side of that pipe connection in your car?

+1 on that
I actually ordered a retainer and bolt thinking one was missing last year. They did not fit there. Only one retainer and bolt on the back side of the pipe that is behind those empty holes.

[Persian Whisperjet]

Originally Posted by fsd350

Only one retainer and bolt on the back side of the pipe that is behind those empty holes.

That is what I am seeing. Hmm -- anyone have any ideas why my Blackstone test would be showing elevated (18-28 ppm) levels of silica? Air filter is fresh and is properly seated.

[DozerDan82]

Still be dealing with the low power until 3000 rpm issue, pretty much had just given up on it and been driving it.

Last week we dropped my girlfriends car off to get tires put on, so she took my car the next day.

Don't know what she did differently in her driving but the car is back to 100% normal.

I have not gotten around to scanning it and comparing codes, but it has all sorts of power again, even more so than before (new injectors and cbu cleaning)

I am starting a new job this week, and it should afford me some hours to actually have to spend tinkering again. Hopefully I can get back into playing with the car some more.

But just in time to start running right, as my truck started giving me some issues-- though I guess after 10 years of owning it, it is allowed to require some TLC

[JuiceQuadre]

Originally Posted by DozerDan82

Still be dealing with the low power until 3000 rpm issue, pretty much had just given up on it and been driving it.

Last week we dropped my girlfriends car off to get tires put on, so she took my car the next day.

Don't know what she did differently in her driving but the car is back to 100% normal.

I have not gotten around to scanning it and comparing codes, but it has all sorts of power again, even more so than before (new injectors and cbu cleaning)

I am starting a new job this week, and it should afford me some hours to actually have to spend tinkering again. Hopefully I can get back into playing with the car some more.

But just in time to start running right, as my truck started giving me some issues-- though I guess after 10 years of owning it, it is allowed to require some TLC

I tried this method as well few weeks back.. However my girlfriend didnt fix it.

[Boosting35d]

This guy thinks that this is the way to test a PC, can someone confirm if the theory is correct. Note that he is using an older generation PC, however same concept should still apply. I'm no expert but this video could be a good way to manually test for potentially faulty PC units

[Yozh]

When PC is not energized it is normally open, i.e. Does not hold vacuum. In my experience this will be an invalid test. Will work on the EL valves but not on pressure converters.

[Boosting35d]

Okay thank you for confirming - I have checked a working PC and it does indeed loose vacuum

[Adam1v]

Hi,
I appreciate this is a bit of an old thread but there's so many good posts with alot of people who's experienced similar issues, I thought it would be better to keep it going.

I own a 2006 535D (100k miles) and going back a few weeks I lost all low end power, the small turbo appeared not to kick in while the top end revs was fine.
Looking over the vacuum hoses, they appeared to be quite brittle, large sections of braid had rubbed off so I took the decision to replace these in the first instance.

On the image below, Ive shown a red * next to what ive replaced, I initially only planned to replace the hosed but accidentally broke a nipple on what I think is one of the pressure converters (#3). Only cost around £40 to replace + the hoses and the car is now pulling like a train again.

Ive cleared the fault memory but appear to be getting FC 004530 - Charge Pressure Control, Control Deviation..

I might try and replace the remaining hoses but I have a couple of questions in the meantime;

1- Are the two pressure converters number #3 both exactly the same unit? Clearly replacing one of these plus the hoses has had a positive impact, I dont mind replacing the other converter if its likely suspect given the miles/age.

2- Is there anything obvious that could also be linked to the 4530, i.e #4 electric changeover valve?

Any input is greatly appreciated!

[Yozh]

Looks like they have a different part number.

[bmw335d]

I have this issue too now, low end torque gone then kicks in after 2500~rpm

Also getting code 4530

going to start with vacuum hoses and replacing the pressure converters

I have 210k miles with egr delete, scr delete, dpf and scr cat still there

got stage 2 jr tune, egr racepipe.

[Got-Torque]

Has anyone ever seen a loss of power at the upper end? It acts as if once the high pressure turbo is done (approx 20-25 psi total boost) and should transition over to the low pressure turbo, I lose all boost and it falls on its face.

If I understand Yozh's writeup on the first post, the only component I could think of causing this problem would be #3 the pressure converter for the low pressure wastegate control. If this was incorrectly holding the low pressure wastegate open, once the high pressure turbo turbine control valve opens (when it normally would transition to the low pressure turbo for power) it would then vent all exhaust through the high pressure turbo turbine control valve and thru the low pressure turbo wastegate (hence boost pressure dropping to nothing)?

I pulled my pressure converter for the wastegate (#3) and tested it. It holds vacuum with power applied. Not sure where to look next? Apply vacuum to the wastegate and verify movement?

history: (10k miles ago replaced all vacuum lines and pressure converters) Car is a JR 2.8 and was running excellent, started getting limp modes. Between vendor and guidance on here, I replaced my intank fuel pump, upgraded injection pump, replaced rail pressure sensor, and had the same issue. Discovered injector #1 was bad, just replaced injector. Car has been sitting for a couple months waiting on injector replacement. Back on the road, no codes, but have the weird boost issue. Low end seems normal, but once it starts to come up on boost, looses all power and boost drops off.

[Yozh]

Check the compressor bypass side of the system. From the electric switchover valve to the vacuum actuator, to stuck flap and vacuum line. General vacuum leaks, bleeding wastegate, although not so much. And then the all time favorite Boost leaks. Any exhaust restrictions?

[Got-Torque]

Shouldn't be any exhaust restrictions, open downpipe and gutted SCR. I just dropped the belly pan and found a messy red boost pipe, have some oil leaking out at the upper connection. I think i recall some upgraded orings being available, I'll have to check. Maybe these are not holding boost once above 20 psi? I'll do some more checking tomorrow, but I think I'll see if I can get some new orings while I have it out. thanks

[barren]

So, I have seen you guys talking about loss of power in the lower ranges. I got a 325d stage2 and I got the problem in higher RPM. Car is DPF and EGR off. Tuned with a reliable tune

I loose power only when I floor it. Power is gone everytime between 150-210 km/h and after a few seconds it gets back.

The fault codes I got was 003FF0 air flow meter signal and ofcourse the 4530 charge pressure control error.

Replaced the air flow meter and car runs better and rolls that coal again. Brought a real smile to my face, the torque is amazing. But the power loss is still feelable at higher RPM, for just a second this time compared to a few before. Still only in higher speeds.

First thing in the morning will be to read fault codes again to see if I got any other trouble or still same 4530, since the symptom is the same I guess I will get the same code again. Will have to look through the pressure and vacuum pipes after this.

Guys like you that provides this information, in this great scale, are amazing. Keep it up!

Regards from Sweden
Thomas

[robnitro]

325d would have different troubleshooting because it is single turbo. If you have a boost gauge or ability to see what the map sensor sees, you can tell if you are overboosting or underboosting at high rpm.

[barren]

So, still same codes but this time with diffefent explanations. This time I got
003FF0 Air flow sensor
004530 Boost pressure control, control deviation.

Seriously thinking about either leaving the car with an upgraded intercooler and a hybrid turbo to the workshop with the instructions for them to fix it or make it stock and buy a 335i
Granny wouldnt notice the problems in a diesel wagon!

[VladPC]

Guys...please help me with some information.

When vacuum is applied to the compressor bypass valve actuator (when the actuator rod is beeing pulled towards the front of the car) ; this means the air route comming out of the small turbo is opened? (the route for the air comming out of the small turbo is opened and for the big turbo is closed?)

Basically I want to know what is the correct position for that actuator rod to know then it allows air for the small turbo and big turbo to enter the intercooler.

[Yozh]

Compressor bypass is on the air side. Are you trying to figure out compressed air routing as output of turbos?

[VladPC]

Yes..I want to know how the air routing is influenced by the position of the compressor bypass plate. When there is vacuum and when there is no vacuum beeing applied to the actuator.

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by VladPC

Yes..I want to know how the air routing is influenced by the position of the compressor bypass plate. When there is vacuum and when there is no vacuum beeing applied to the actuator.

When the vacuum is applied to the actuator the rod pulls the shutter open.

Closed:
Attachment 1887552

Open:
Attachment 1887553