[InControl]

Conservative rims/tires will help keep it down, hell you may consider an atkins diet to complement her

[justpete]

For completeness sake here are some pictures of the datalogger assembly and installation without the gauge and sensor harness installed. A serial splitter connects the DASH3 serial cable and the OBDII-to-serial cable into the serial port through a 1:3 splitter for the serial #1, CAN, and serial #2 ports. The CAN bus is wired into the PT-CAN bus but never been able to get it to work. Once all the new sensors are installed and the equations validated, etc. the OBDII connection and the serial splitter can be removed from the wiring mess. Also makes it a lot easier to program the DASH3 since it gets all screwed up with the serial splitter in place.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by InControl

Conservative rims/tires will help keep it down, hell you may consider an atkins diet to complement her

ARC-8 wheels helped quite a bit. The billet flywheel saved 17 lbs by itself. I think the PE took quite a bit of weight out but not real sure about that. A Braille 21# battery will save a lot of weight, too. Yet to see if it can support a car with CA. If it has to be kept on a tender each night then that's what I'll have to do. I think the headers saved like thirty pounds or something maybe. Gotta get some SS midpipes next I think, that'll take some weight out too.

[gunnerxq]

Originally Posted by justpete

ARC-8 wheels helped quite a bit. The billet flywheel saved 17 lbs by itself. I think the PE took quite a bit of weight out but not real sure about that. A Braille 21# battery will save a lot of weight, too. Yet to see if it can support a car with CA. If it has to be kept on a tender each night then that's what I'll have to do. I think the headers saved like thirty pounds or something maybe. Gotta get some SS midpipes next I think, that'll take some weight out too.

That flywheel sounds like a nice mod. I'm changing the clutch soon anyway. What difference did you see after putting it in? Any increase in your butt dino? Also is it any noiser then stock when you shift? Is it a direct fit?
And one last question do you have a link to it?

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by justpete

ARC-8 wheels helped quite a bit. The billet flywheel saved 17 lbs by itself. I think the PE took quite a bit of weight out but not real sure about that. A Braille 21# battery will save a lot of weight, too. Yet to see if it can support a car with CA. If it has to be kept on a tender each night then that's what I'll have to do. I think the headers saved like thirty pounds or something maybe. Gotta get some SS midpipes next I think, that'll take some weight out too.

do you have the single mass flywheel kit? I'd think that would save a lot more weight. On my N52 project I intend to use a single mass flywheel and E34 M5 sprung hub clutch disc. I think the flywheel is less than 20lbs, the pressure plate is an unknown but dual mass flywheels are usually at least 40-50lbs not including a pressure plate.

something like this:
http://www.jbracing.com/flywheel-bmw8.php

it says the stock one is 20-30lbs but that sounds way too light for a DMF.

FWIW, and as you probably know, I wouldn't recommend a 12lb aluminum flywheel on a daily driver. Low speed driving/parking lots will be annoying, it's also easier to stall and tends to make the input shaft bearings rattle. but on a track/weekend car, it can be a big improvement.

what I haven't really looked for are better pressure plates. maybe the stock one is good enough, but I'm going to beat the shit out of this clutch so I want something with good clamping force.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by gunnerxq

That flywheel sounds like a nice mod. I'm changing the clutch soon anyway. What difference did you see after putting it in? Any increase in your butt dino? Also is it any noiser then stock when you shift? Is it a direct fit?
And one last question do you have a link to it?

The flywheel is part of the Clutchmasters 850 dual disc racing clutch package. There are no spring hubs on the friction discs so the clutch is now officially a friggin switch. Even with the over-center spring assembly installed on the Ultimate Clutch Pedal in the best of the three attachment locations for linear feel it's still nearly impossible to not stall it taking off from a standstill when trying to be discreet.

Doesn't affect dyno numbers because those are steady state torque measurements. It does however work very well with a rigid driveline (solid engine, trans, and diff mounts) to eliminate driveline windup so torque is applied much much more quickly to the road than it would be otherwise. Without the solid driveline mounts the racing clutch is a recipe for severe damage throughout the driveline, imho. And I'm having the PG LSD rebuilt with the new track-specific design to get the larger spiders to handle the driveline shock.

Because it's a solid flywheel you get gear clatter in neutral, which is to be expected, and yes it's loud. But it's a small price to pay for nearly instantaneous shifts, sounds almost like a sequential on the track. But I wouldn't recommend it for the street only as it's not a pleasant mod to have, and it's much more expensive than a clutch replacement.

I don't have a link handy but you can look it up on the Clutchmasters site. It's pretty much a custom clutch build as there are options for the friction discs. I think I remember being told this particular one (same as they use in their race cars at the dealership) is sintered organic but that was a comment in passing a few years ago so take it for what it's worth...

[justpete]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

do you have the single mass flywheel kit? I'd think that would save a lot more weight. On my N52 project I intend to use a single mass flywheel and E34 M5 sprung hub clutch disc. I think the flywheel is less than 20lbs, the pressure plate is an unknown but dual mass flywheels are usually at least 40-50lbs not including a pressure plate.

something like this:
http://www.jbracing.com/flywheel-bmw8.php

it says the stock one is 20-30lbs but that sounds way too light for a DMF.

FWIW, and as you probably know, I wouldn't recommend a 12lb aluminum flywheel on a daily driver. Low speed driving/parking lots will be annoying, it's also easier to stall and tends to make the input shaft bearings rattle. but on a track/weekend car, it can be a big improvement.

what I haven't really looked for are better pressure plates. maybe the stock one is good enough, but I'm going to beat the shit out of this clutch so I want something with good clamping force.

Hopefully my response to gunnerxq answers these questions. And yeah, it's a bitch to drive around town especially when you throw in a race alignment and race brake pads that clunk very loudly when stopping in reverse. But it's my daily anyway.

[Tom Droze]

Originally Posted by justpete

But it's my daily anyway.

I bet it kooks way cool parked next to the minivan in the Safeway parking lot!

[justpete]

Originally Posted by Tom Droze

I bet it kooks way cool parked next to the minivan in the Safeway parking lot!

I dunno, up till now I've tried to keep it as stock looking as possible, one of the reasons I may just go ahead and have the CF painted to match. Almost looks too ricey the more I look at it. At least it's never attracted any attention, maybe the CF and blue are both dark enough it won't be obvious and the car can remain unnoticeable.

[tetsuo111]

Originally Posted by Tom Droze

I bet it kooks way cool parked next to the minivan in the Safeway parking lot!

[justpete]

Yet another update.

Went up to the shop to answer a question about how to hook up the wiring harness I made for the diff cooler. Made some changes, added some more mods, and clarified a few things.

First, the paint on the trunk is color matched on the back but fades into the CF as it approaches the back edge of the CSL lip, looks seriously cool. Didn't know that till they pointed it out. Also, the CF is CF only, no FRP except as an FRP frame. And it's really really light.

The hood looks incredible as clearcoated CF, wow. Definitely sticking with that.

They're going to pull the center section of the dash and build a bracket to move the RT DASH3 so it's permanently mounted to the right of the steering wheel, no more suction cup mounting to the windshield.

The Accusump's installed lengthwise in the passenger floorboard since they built the EPC valve off the endplate making it too long to sit transverse on the bulkhead. But it's sufficiently out of the way that it's actually better for a passenger. Nice.

Also determined the PLX AFR and EGT sensors can go in one of the headers, the same one getting the EGT sensor for the Stack gauge. They only have one AFR in one header in the race cars for tuning purposes so we're good and the location of a merge in the final exhaust system is now independent of the wiring and sensor locations. Figured out a way to mount the DM-6 gauge to the shifter cover in a way I hadn't thought of before so that takes care of that issue as well.

Their composite manufacturer has agreed to take the sunroof, build a mold, and turn out blankoff plates made entirely of CF with no FRP meaning this will be become a made-to-order part for anyone. No details on leadtime though.

And since this solves the CF roof mess they're going to go ahead and remove the sharkfin antenna and the Telematics unit and install the RT GPS antenna under the new sharkfin cover I provided, gluing it in place. I'll have to build an RG316DS extension coax with SMA connectors but that's all in stock at home so no big deal.

They installed the RT oil pressure and temp sensors as well as the temp sensor on the radiator and wired in the RT RPM conditioner module inside the E-Box with the DME to minimize wiring and have made all the connections to the logger as well as repaired the OBDII connector that I broke and routed all the half assed wiring I had racer taped across the back of the console carefully out of the way and under the trim and up inside the console. Really professional looking now and the big cluster of connections at the logger turned out to be no problem at all.

The UlraRace braces fit perfectly and went in without the slightest bit of trouble. One braces across the back two bolt points of the rear subframe and the other goes between the two brackets the toe arms tie to on the subframe. Dunno where the one for the front subframe goes as they had it pulled out to get the header out. They'll also be machining the underside of the M3 brace footers on the strut towers so they can install the UltraRace crossbar.

They're fabricating a CAI off the driver's side scoop in the front Aero bumper so it'll be an actual ram air intake. The brake ducts are better than I expected, too. They had to swap in a 335i wheelwell liner for the oil cooler to have an exhaust path for the air being ducted to it from the passenger side scoop. Tight but the Setrab oil cooler which is larger than the stock oil cooler will fit as will the mating Setrab mounting bracket. The CF splitters look pretty cool, better in person than in the pic. Rear bumper looks pretty good too, they left off the lame fake CF stickers.

They'll be taking the weights off the front 135i calipers as the Brembo caliper that's essentially the same but not specific to the 135i doesn't have them so we're guessing they were added to put the unsprung weight where it needed to be for the 135i stock suspension response. Who knows. They're gone regardless. May try the two piece RB rotors with Carbotech anyway, we haven't decided yet.

Talked about a cage, it'll be an eight point welded in design and I got to see what it would look like in the 135 shell they just got back from paint. It's going to be their twice-a-year customer-invited trackday car built as a full up racecar with a passenger race shell. And they're using the OMP HTE-R halo seats that I was planning to use with the same side brackets, slider, and floor adapter plates so I know now that it'll fit without gutting the B pillar which is a relief.

There's an interesting little feature in the Aero side skirts they pointed out. It's a scoop-like cosmetic grate at the rear which doesn't do anything but they checked and they can pop the grate, cut out the back of that part of the side skirt, add a flange and route silicone brake cooling ducts to the rear brakes by repurposing those intakes.

So we'll do that at the end or in the next round when the seats and flooring come out for the cage, race shells, and CF/Nomex honeycomb floorboards. The headliner, overhead consoles, and rearview mirror and rain sensor assembly will all come out, a vinyl sunscreen will go in across the top of the windshield, and a Wink mirror will get installed. Will likely remove the rear door panels and rivet in place some sheet metal or CF panels after removing anything we can out of the doors along with any and all trim pieces. The cage is about 120 lbs and the gutting of the interior makes it a wash so we're looking at maybe 2900-3000 lbs, curb wet, when finished.

And it'll still be totally street legal.

[justpete]

FWIW, going to have the rear brake duct work done with the modification of the side skirts. May as well while they have the whole thing torn apart, can't cost that much extra really. One less thing to do. Can't decide if it's worth ripping out the audio system at this point though.

[gunnerxq]

Originally Posted by justpete

Yet another update.

Went up to the shop to answer a question about how to hook up the wiring harness I made for the diff cooler. Made some changes, added some more mods, and clarified a few things.

First, the paint on the trunk is color matched on the back but fades into the CF as it approaches the back edge of the CSL lip, looks seriously cool. Didn't know that till they pointed it out. Also, the CF is CF only, no FRP except as an FRP frame. And it's really really light.

The hood looks incredible as clearcoated CF, wow. Definitely sticking with that.

They're going to pull the center section of the dash and build a bracket to move the RT DASH3 so it's permanently mounted to the right of the steering wheel, no more suction cup mounting to the windshield.

The Accusump's installed lengthwise in the passenger floorboard since they built the EPC valve off the endplate making it too long to sit transverse on the bulkhead. But it's sufficiently out of the way that it's actually better for a passenger. Nice.

Also determined the PLX AFR and EGT sensors can go in one of the headers, the same one getting the EGT sensor for the Stack gauge. They only have one AFR in one header in the race cars for tuning purposes so we're good and the location of a merge in the final exhaust system is now independent of the wiring and sensor locations. Figured out a way to mount the DM-6 gauge to the shifter cover in a way I hadn't thought of before so that takes care of that issue as well.

Their composite manufacturer has agreed to take the sunroof, build a mold, and turn out blankoff plates made entirely of CF with no FRP meaning this will be become a made-to-order part for anyone. No details on leadtime though.

And since this solves the CF roof mess they're going to go ahead and remove the sharkfin antenna and the Telematics unit and install the RT GPS antenna under the new sharkfin cover I provided, gluing it in place. I'll have to build an RG316DS extension coax with SMA connectors but that's all in stock at home so no big deal.

They installed the RT oil pressure and temp sensors as well as the temp sensor on the radiator and wired in the RT RPM conditioner module inside the E-Box with the DME to minimize wiring and have made all the connections to the logger as well as repaired the OBDII connector that I broke and routed all the half assed wiring I had racer taped across the back of the console carefully out of the way and under the trim and up inside the console. Really professional looking now and the big cluster of connections at the logger turned out to be no problem at all.

The UlraRace braces fit perfectly and went in without the slightest bit of trouble. One braces across the back two bolt points of the rear subframe and the other goes between the two brackets the toe arms tie to on the subframe. Dunno where the one for the front subframe goes as they had it pulled out to get the header out. They'll also be machining the underside of the M3 brace footers on the strut towers so they can install the UltraRace crossbar.

They're fabricating a CAI off the driver's side scoop in the front Aero bumper so it'll be an actual ram air intake. The brake ducts are better than I expected, too. They had to swap in a 335i wheelwell liner for the oil cooler to have an exhaust path for the air being ducted to it from the passenger side scoop. Tight but the Setrab oil cooler which is larger than the stock oil cooler will fit as will the mating Setrab mounting bracket. The CF splitters look pretty cool, better in person than in the pic. Rear bumper looks pretty good too, they left off the lame fake CF stickers.

They'll be taking the weights off the front 135i calipers as the Brembo caliper that's essentially the same but not specific to the 135i doesn't have them so we're guessing they were added to put the unsprung weight where it needed to be for the 135i stock suspension response. Who knows. They're gone regardless. May try the two piece RB rotors with Carbotech anyway, we haven't decided yet.

Talked about a cage, it'll be an eight point welded in design and I got to see what it would look like in the 135 shell they just got back from paint. It's going to be their twice-a-year customer-invited trackday car built as a full up racecar with a passenger race shell. And they're using the OMP HTE-R halo seats that I was planning to use with the same side brackets, slider, and floor adapter plates so I know now that it'll fit without gutting the B pillar which is a relief.

There's an interesting little feature in the Aero side skirts they pointed out. It's a scoop-like cosmetic grate at the rear which doesn't do anything but they checked and they can pop the grate, cut out the back of that part of the side skirt, add a flange and route silicone brake cooling ducts to the rear brakes by repurposing those intakes.

So we'll do that at the end or in the next round when the seats and flooring come out for the cage, race shells, and CF/Nomex honeycomb floorboards. The headliner, overhead consoles, and rearview mirror and rain sensor assembly will all come out, a vinyl sunscreen will go in across the top of the windshield, and a Wink mirror will get installed. Will likely remove the rear door panels and rivet in place some sheet metal or CF panels after removing anything we can out of the doors along with any and all trim pieces. The cage is about 120 lbs and the gutting of the interior makes it a wash so we're looking at maybe 2900-3000 lbs, curb wet, when finished.

And it'll still be totally street legal.

Duuude

[justpete]

Originally Posted by gunnerxq

Duuude

Sup?

[Tom Droze]

OMG! Hey, the Ultrarace braces you spoke of, are they the ones from Malaysia that you find on eBay?

[justpete]

Originally Posted by Tom Droze

OMG! Hey, the Ultrarace braces you spoke of, are they the ones from Malaysia that you find on eBay?

Yes, but I bought them from the distributor in Florida so I got quality parts. The ebay stuff is likely to be defective returns and junk.

[gunnerxq]

Originally Posted by justpete

Sup?

Ahh nothing much. I was just in awe with your post reading all the modifications that you are doing to your car.

[BudVlad]

Originally Posted by justpete

They'll be taking the weights off the front 135i calipers as the Brembo caliper that's essentially the same but not specific to the 135i doesn't have them

Let us know what you did with the brake calipers. I was wandering why Brembo added unsprung weight and if I can cut it off.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by BudVlad

Let us know what you did with the brake calipers. I was wandering why Brembo added unsprung weight and if I can cut it off.

I think those two pieces bolt on. Didn't take a close look yesterday but I'm pretty sure I saw they have a couple of bolts each holding them on. Is that what you find looking at your calipers?

[BudVlad]

When I was installing the calipers I wasn’t sure if the pieces are bolted on. Unfortunately I didn’t try.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by gunnerxq

Ahh nothing much. I was just in awe with your post reading all the modifications that you are doing to your car.

No worries

Reminded me to ping ATI about the custom Super Damper they've been putting off all year. With any luck we can get that in within the next four to six weeks but I'm not holding my breath... :/

[Mike.]

I should keep this to the email thread but hows the five fitti i