[apexit4]

Originally Posted by Pep423

Car is back in my garage!

Driving it home it sounded like it was running smoother and quieter than it ever has but that might seem like it considering I have been driving small 4 cylinders for 2 months.

The shop owner OJ at Fluid MotorUnion said they are confident with the result. However, they would not offer an explicit warranty, only verbally saying he would work with me in case something happens.

He had to polish the crank while it was in the car in order to get the the bearing on within the required tolerance. I correct way to perform this work I was told was to pull the engine. So that along with a used cap is the reason he gave for not offering a warranty.

As I said, the car sounds fantastic but I am concerned about the long term results. At this point I am just relieved to have the car back. I really like the car even though it has given me so many problems and headaches!

On a side notes, I had removed collision on my insurance while it was in the shop and tonight I went to add it back on and fucking progressive is telling me I have to wait 5 days for the coverage to kick in. WTF Progressive!! Iv been a customer of theirs for both vehicles and home for nearly 10 years. After a 40 minute phone call I was finally able to talk to someone who agreed to reinstate my coverage immediately.

Fuck!

Looks like its been a month since you got your car back. How's it running? Any issues or has it been trouble free?

[Pep423]

Originally Posted by apexit4

Looks like its been a month since you got your car back. How's it running? Any issues or has it been trouble free?

All good still but I have been really easy on it. Still probably haven't been past 3500 revs.

I have also been letting the car warm up for at least 5 mins in the morning before leaving for work.

[robnitro]

I used can of lubro moly mos2 in my last oil change because I read how it helped the v8 m3 guys with their factory bearing issues. Mos2 is not the same as the moly in the oil which works at high temps. From what I read it helps at startup.

Mos 2 is pretty cheap, their ceratec stuff is overrated I think.

Soi maybe you should use it?

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by Pep423

All good still but I have been really easy on it. Still probably haven't been past 3500 revs.

I have also been letting the car warm up for at least 5 mins in the morning before leaving for work.

Very promising information, thanks for the update. Have you done your first oil change yet? If so, did you send it out for an analysis?

Also, did you end up using the bearing end cap I sent you or did you find another one somewhere else? If I remember correctly, I think you said the shop was able to polish it down so that it fit. Is that correct?

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by robnitro

I used can of lubro moly mos2 in my last oil change because I read how it helped the v8 m3 guys with their factory bearing issues. Mos2 is not the same as the moly in the oil which works at high temps. From what I read it helps at startup.

Mos 2 is pretty cheap, their ceratec stuff is overrated I think.

Soi maybe you should use it?

Thanks for the heads up on the MOS2. I'm a bit paranoid about developing bearing issues again so I'll definitely give it a shot. I'll probably do a before and after oil analysis as well out curiosity. Its probably the closest thing that will confirm if the additive is working but I dont expect the results to show much proof. You wouldnt by any chance have a link or two to the discussion the V8 M3 guys had on the topic, would you?

[robnitro]

Sorry it's the inline 6 m3 engine (my favorite though!)
https://thebuildjournal.com/products...-rod-bearings/


And some sound testing pointing to cold start benefits, as moly in oils that include it works only at hot temperatures(chemically bonds with heat).
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...Number=3185420

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by robnitro

Sorry it's the inline 6 m3 engine (my favorite though!)
https://thebuildjournal.com/products...-rod-bearings/


And some sound testing pointing to cold start benefits, as moly in oils that include it works only at hot temperatures(chemically bonds with heat).
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...Number=3185420

Thanks for the link, it made for an interesting read. Personally, I dont have elevated copper or lead levels but will definitely do an oil analysis our of curiosity.

Btw, it appears the Ceratec product is an upgrade from MOS2. The end of the article has this update:

Update 11/10/2016: We talked to Liqui Moly representatives and they recommend their newest product Ceratec which has updated technology.

and this anectode:

Oscar (TR4CKM3) has been using Liqui Moly Ceratec in 30k Miles intervals with good results. He says that Ceratec last longer between oil changes.

[robnitro]

I mentioned ceratec in the other post, haven't seen any real results since it's relatively new.

For the price, mos2 is better even if done every oil change. I'd guess that with dpf better use ceratec if it's supposed to not burn off etc...

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by robnitro

I mentioned ceratec in the other post, haven't seen any real results since it's relatively new.

For the price, mos2 is better even if done every oil change. I'd guess that with dpf better use ceratec if it's supposed to not burn off etc...

To each his own I suppose. It seems Liqui Molly themselves say Ceratec is better so I think I'll use that instead of the MOS2.

Now that I think about it, maybe I'll run MOS2 at my next oil change and try Ceratec in the following and compare the results.

Either way, thanks for the heads up on using these products to prolong bearing life.

[Pep423]

Originally Posted by apexit4

Very promising information, thanks for the update. Have you done your first oil change yet? If so, did you send it out for an analysis?

Also, did you end up using the bearing end cap I sent you or did you find another one somewhere else? If I remember correctly, I think you said the shop was able to polish it down so that it fit. Is that correct?

No oil change yet, been about 1000 miles. I'll wait a while before an oil change but for sure I will send it off for analysis.

I did use your cap. I don't believe the shop had to polish the cap, just the crank.

[apexit4]

So far, the new engine is running fine after about 10k miles.

However, I noticed something a little disconcerting. I replaced the stock drain plug with a magnetic one and found a lot of fine metal on the magnet after the first oil change. At the second oil change, I still had fine metal on the magnet albeit much less than before. I should note that these were not big pieces though. When I went to clean off the magnet the metal bits essentially created a silver smear on the paper towel.

I sent the oil out for analysis both times and the results didn't show anything out of the norm. I'm hoping that the next oil change produces even fewer particles on the magnet.

Any thoughts or experience with what I'm seeing here?

I've uploaded a few photos to provide a visual of what I described. The first three photos (white gloves) are from the second oil change with less metal on the magnet. The last two photos (blue gloves) are from the first oil change, which had what appeared to be more metal on the magnet.

[Pep423]

My bearing issue came back about 2 weeks ago and last week I got rid of the car (CarMax). It was about 6 months since I got the repair work done. I knew there was a good chance it would come back but I was hoping I could get a couple more years out of it.

On Friday I flew down to Atlanta from Chicago and picked up a 2019 Stinger GT RWD. I'm done with BMWs for a while.

I ended up getting a 100k mile bumper to bumper warranty on the Stinger. Haven't really driven it too hard but it certainly doesn't have as much grunt down low but I can tell up higher it the revs it pulls quite strong.

Ride is slightly softer than the 335d but I don't mind it, most roads up here are shit. Steering feel is lighter though. I like the D's heavy steering better. Only thing I would want to change with the stinger is lowering it. Has slightly more than a 3 finger gap. I don't understand why most manufactures leave such a big gap. Not sure if I'll do anything about the suspension since it affects the warranty.

Anyway, good luck to everyone with their D's. Really loved that car but it broke my heart too many times.

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by Pep423

My bearing issue came back about 2 weeks ago and last week I got rid of the car (CarMax). It was about 6 months since I got the repair work done. I knew there was a good chance it would come back but I was hoping I could get a couple more years out of it.

On Friday I flew down to Atlanta from Chicago and picked up a 2019 Stinger GT RWD. I'm done with BMWs for a while.

I ended up getting a 100k mile bumper to bumper warranty on the Stinger. Haven't really driven it too hard but it certainly doesn't have as much grunt down low but I can tell up higher it the revs it pulls quite strong.

Ride is slightly softer than the 335d but I don't mind it, most roads up here are shit. Steering feel is lighter though. I like the D's heavy steering better. Only thing I would want to change with the stinger is lowering it. Has slightly more than a 3 finger gap. I don't understand why most manufactures leave such a big gap. Not sure if I'll do anything about the suspension since it affects the warranty.

Anyway, good luck to everyone with their D's. Really loved that car but it broke my heart too many times.

Sorry to hear you had to part ways with your 335D. I've read some good reviews about the Stinger so hopefully you'll enjoy every bit of driving it.

Out of curiosity, what were the symptoms/issues that led to the diagnosis of the failed bearing? I'm guessing Carmax didn't happen to catch the issue, did they?

[Pep423]

Originally Posted by apexit4

Sorry to hear you had to part ways with your 335D. I've read some good reviews about the Stinger so hopefully you'll enjoy every bit of driving it.

Out of curiosity, what were the symptoms/issues that led to the diagnosis of the failed bearing? I'm guessing Carmax didn't happen to catch the issue, did they?

CarMax could hear the noise but I'm sure they didn't suspect a bearing.

It was the same noise, not as pronounced, as the first time. After getting it fixed, I told myself I would get rid of it as soon as I started hearing any noise.

[MRNN1999]

I have a spun main bearing on my 335d, I was hoping to get in contact with a few people about crank caps. After reading threw this whole forum i have realized I have bought Pep423 old car, same motor spun bearing again. Definitely fluid motor works did not use the right bearing size, they most definitely didn't torque down the main cap properly. I do all my own work and when removing the crank the main cap was much easier to take off then all the others. I noticed after seeing the cap was different and did some research and stumbled apon this post. I see that apex4 has been a great help, and I hope to speak with you in the future. I am almost down tearing down the block and will be bringing everything to a machine shop. I can see that the cap has some uneven surface to it and may be too bad to fix. I was hoping that someone has a good cap if I am forced to replace it. I will be sending PM once my account gets the permission.

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by MRNN1999

I have a spun main bearing on my 335d, I was hoping to get in contact with a few people about crank caps. After reading threw this whole forum i have realized I have bought Pep423 old car, same motor spun bearing again. Definitely fluid motor works did not use the right bearing size, they most definitely didn't torque down the main cap properly. I do all my own work and when removing the crank the main cap was much easier to take off then all the others. I noticed after seeing the cap was different and did some research and stumbled apon this post. I see that apex4 has been a great help, and I hope to speak with you in the future. I am almost down tearing down the block and will be bringing everything to a machine shop. I can see that the cap has some uneven surface to it and may be too bad to fix. I was hoping that someone has a good cap if I am forced to replace it. I will be sending PM once my account gets the permission.

Sorry to hear about your troubles! Where did you get the car and what makes you think its Pep's?

Regarding those main bearing end caps, I still have a few left over. I've sent you a PM about them. Out of curiosity, whats your game plan on getting the issue fixed? Are you planning on having the crank and end caps reprofiled and fitted with an over sized bearing? Or possibly laser welding on more material?

[MRNN1999]

I got the car from carmel motors, it is Peps because on the carfax is has his visit at fluidmotor work, who fyi dont know what they are doing, left crank caps loose and spun the main again. I know Pep said that they measured the bearings but they may have done that wrong too. I have the motor out in my garage right now and will tear down sunday. I hope the block is ok, the cap was slightly scuffed but I think it can be worked on, I will also just be resurfacing the crank on all surfaces and have it balanced, resurface the pistons walls, do a head job, and then throw some boost at it.

[Soonerbilly]

I also have some main caps that were offered up to pep....I can send you mine as well if you'd like. Where in Va are you? Near Suffolk?

[MRNN1999]

I am in the Richmond area, I will have the motor torn down by Sunday hopefully and be able to asses block damage, end cap is not terrible but I will let let machine shop tell me for sure. I appreciate you letting me know, some pics would be great. You have any other parts?

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by MRNN1999

I got the car from carmel motors, it is Peps because on the carfax is has his visit at fluidmotor work, who fyi dont know what they are doing, left crank caps loose and spun the main again. I know Pep said that they measured the bearings but they may have done that wrong too. I have the motor out in my garage right now and will tear down sunday. I hope the block is ok, the cap was slightly scuffed but I think it can be worked on, I will also just be resurfacing the crank on all surfaces and have it balanced, resurface the pistons walls, do a head job, and then throw some boost at it.

I'm curious to see how much material the machine shop will have to remove from the crank to get it smooth again. My main concern with the resurfacing would be getting the appropriately sized bearings so the issue doesnt come back. I've never dealt with a machine shop, so hopefully they'll provide some guidance on that.

FYI, BMW does make oversized bearings. Here's a link to the part numbers and sizes should you need it: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_3833

[Soonerbilly]

Had my crank turned and had to get oversized bearings....PM me for contact info and I can tell you my ordeal and some of the pitfalls you might encounter. I have a few parts....bought a windowed motor out of an x5.

[MRNN1999]

Bmw has two over sized bearing so Ive got really only one shot at this by the machine shop to get it wrong. I feel that another reason for it failing again is that a new cap was used with out getting it bored. I will most definitely doing that to make sure everything is straight. At my dealership we use a local machine shop so has done lots of work for us, I plan to use them. Its fairly straight forward just have to see how much material will need to be taken off. Low key it will be a "light weight" crank lol.