[nsjames]

interesting.

I'm real close to just buying a generic flow master or something and just making it fit with a welder.

[eljay]

Today, I enabled oil temperature reading via the instant fuel economy gauge. Brilliant!
Finally, that needle does something useful.

Link for others:
DIY: MPG to Oil Temp on Gauge Cluster https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1590205

[Tambohamilton]

You mean you don't love the swing-ometer??

Every time I look at mine I wonder what the minor scale could be...

Mine is actually pretty useful though, just in case for some reason I lose all sensation in all parts of my body:
~50mpg - cruising (not accelerating)
~30mpg - not accelerating very quickly
Pegged - engine off, not moving, or full chat (aka not accelerating very quickly)
Over 50mpg - is something broken?
That's UK gallons, for accuracy

[nsjames]

https://www.instagram.com/venoxycom/


would recommend.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

You mean you don't love the swing-ometer??

Every time I look at mine I wonder what the minor scale could be...

Mine is actually pretty useful though, just in case for some reason I lose all sensation in all parts of my body:
~50mpg - cruising (not accelerating)
~30mpg - not accelerating very quickly
Pegged - engine off, not moving, or full chat (aka not accelerating very quickly)
Over 50mpg - is something broken?
That's UK gallons, for accuracy

I like my wiper to come one when I tell it to and this one is upside down and sweeps as it wants.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by nsjames

https://www.instagram.com/venoxycom/


would recommend.

Nice! Thanks. I'll look into that down the road.

[4 Doors]

Agree with above, I would recommend buying Venoxy gauge faces to have the temp gauge. Or...just think of the MPG gauge as a boost meter, even though we are N52 :

[eljay]

The gauge works beautifully!
It makes it also easy to tell my wife not to rev the engine too high until that first marker.

In other news, ST X coilvers showed up!! Now, I am piecing together all the suspension refresh pieces and will order them to do everything at once. That is if I ever find the time to install all of this stuff. :

Before I install the coilovers, I want to protect them as much as I can against our salty winter. My plan was to spray the strut body with clear coat designed for wheels. Since I'll never go low, I may even spray the bottom third of the threads. Then I plan to apply Gyeon Q2 Rim wheel ceramic coating to everything including the springs.
I wonder whether the clear coat and coating would just rub off where the shock droos into the knuckle anyway.

Is a clear coat spray an overkill? Should I just use the ceramic coating and be done?

[Buug959]

Originally Posted by eljay

The gauge works beautifully!
It makes it also easy to tell my wife not to rev the engine too high until that first marker.

In other news, ST X coilvers showed up!! Now, I am piecing together all the suspension refresh pieces and will order them to do everything at once. That is if I ever find the time to install all of this stuff. :

Before I install the coilovers, I want to protect them as much as I can against our salty winter. My plan was to spray the strut body with clear coat designed for wheels. Since I'll never go low, I may even spray the bottom third of the threads. Then I plan to apply Gyeon Q2 Rim wheel ceramic coating to everything including the springs.
I wonder whether the clear coat and coating would just rub off where the shock droos into the knuckle anyway.

Is a clear coat spray an overkill? Should I just use the ceramic coating and be done?

Are you worried about appearance or just protection? I'd do the clear coat and then if appearance isn't a big concern I'd give them a decent coating of Krown rust spray. You can get it in a rattle-can at Lakeland Plant World on Main St. You can give them a respray of Krown whenever you think you need to. I mention appearance because it will pick up road grime and, well, you know what undercoated cars are like to work on... messy.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by LemansE90335xi

Are you worried about appearance or just protection? I'd do the clear coat and then if appearance isn't a big concern I'd give them a decent coating of Krown rust spray. You can get it in a rattle-can at Lakeland Plant World on Main St. You can give them a respray of Krown whenever you think you need to. I mention appearance because it will pick up road grime and, well, you know what undercoated cars are like to work on... messy.

Thanks.
I may just do that: clear coat on the shock body and then coat threads with anti-seize and the body part with FluidFilm.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by eljay

Thanks.
I may just do that: clear coat on the shock body and then coat threads with anti-seize and the body part with FluidFilm.

st specifically says not to coat the threads with anything.

it will accumulate shit.

the spring perches are plastic, there's no concern that they will seize. I easily adjusted mine after a winter.

[309xi]

Originally Posted by nsjames

https://www.instagram.com/venoxycom/


would recommend.

Stupid question, do you just code that to change from insta-mpg to oil temp?

[Tambohamilton]

Originally Posted by nsjames

st specifically says not to coat the threads with anything.

it will accumulate shit.

the spring perches are plastic, there's no concern that they will seize. I easily adjusted mine after a winter.

It is a fine line between gathering crud (which holds water and salt, and encourages rust), and actually just providing a protective coating for the steel... You're basically damned, whatever you do!

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by 309xi

Stupid question, do you just code that to change from insta-mpg to oil temp?

yes.

there's some software called perfekt toolbox that makes it incredibly easy, and also allows you to test it.

[Tambohamilton]

Here you go:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BDn...ew?usp=sharing

[eljay]

Originally Posted by nsjames

st specifically says not to coat the threads with anything.

it will accumulate shit.

the spring perches are plastic, there's no concern that they will seize. I easily adjusted mine after a winter.

Yeah, but not coating them will let salt and grime eat away at the galvanized coating. I know that I'd have to degrease the threads before moving the ring anyway.

[213e90n51]

been thinking about getting b12 prokit but saw so much mixed reviews

[M-technik-3]

Nice and would love to retrofit a dipstick and temp gauge back in too. Those deletes were just dumb. I am ok with fact is I bought mine used but new it would have perturbed me.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by 309xi

Stupid question, do you just code that to change from insta-mpg to oil temp?

See my post above. I linked to the DIY.

[rothwem]

Originally Posted by M-technik-3

Nice and would love to retrofit a dipstick and temp gauge back in too. Those deletes were just dumb. I am ok with fact is I bought mine used but new it would have perturbed me.

Enh, I'm not really broken up over the dipstick. Modern oils are so light that its hard to tell what the level is anyways. On my wife's old Rogue, I often had to dip the stick 4-5 times after an oil change, it was in-fucking-possible to see the oil level. On our MDX, the dipstick is a cable, and it always smears the oil level, which is annoying too.

I just make sure to count how much oil I put in and I'm fine.

[nsjames]

the e dipstick has never been an issue for me.

I thought I would hate it, but whatever. if there's a problem the car will tell me.
I don't even bother checking it honestly.
even with the oil pan leak it still doesn't require any oil between changes.

[eljay]

So, I am assembling all the bits and pieces for a suspension overhaul.
My car passed an inspection recently, so I don't have any "must-dos" after changing the thrust arms a couple of years ago.
Shall I add Whiteline rear subframe bushing inserts to the list? The rust on the rear subframe is starting, but not bad at all yet. I know that ideally, I'd buy a replacement subframe, replace all bushings and control arms etc. on that and install it all in one go, but I just don't have that kind of time. I even wonder if I need the inserts at this point. I can do them along with engine and tranny mounts sometime next year, but it would mean a need for another alignment, right?
I will be replacing rear control arm bushings along with installing new shock mounts when I put the STs on.
Now, I just need to go through all the diagrams and order new bolts and nuts for everything! Sigh.