[schriss]

Originally Posted by aaronblack

If you do happen to find cheap new -11 injectors do let me know as I'm on the look out too.

125 pounds, new genuine, tempting: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-Fuel-...8/274051458309

[aaronblack]

Originally Posted by schriss

125 pounds, new genuine, tempting: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-Fuel-...8/274051458309

How quick that got sold is beyond me 😂😂

[schriss]

Originally Posted by aaronblack

How quick that got sold is beyond me ����

Sorry I had to scoop it
Do I need new decoupling element and injector seal? 13537564751 13537584315
EDIT: Decouplers are needed, ordering separately.

[aaronblack]

Originally Posted by schriss

Sorry I had to scoop it
Do I need new decoupling element and injector seal? 13537564751 13537584315
EDIT: Decouplers are needed, ordering separately.

Oh no worries mate 😂

I'll have to get a set of 6 as -11 isn't recommended to mix and all my injectors are -3 I think!

[schriss]

Originally Posted by aaronblack

Oh no worries mate 😂

I'll have to get a set of 6 as -11 isn't recommended to mix and all my injectors are -3 I think!

I'm going to mix and see. Found a post of a guy who has been mixing them for years, slowly replacing each failed 9 with 11, never had any problems.
But since my two are going into same bank I might later buy another one just to have 3x11 in 6-5-4.

[schriss]

Apart from my leaking injectors, people suggest rough idle might be because of Pressure Sensor Manifold Sensor Map Sensor (13628657300), going to have a look at it and clean it if there is any oil buildup on it. Might even replace it with a new one. It's easily accessible on top of the engine.

[leew88]

Good to here you've successfully fitted and running the NOXEM.

In terms of rough run diagnostic make sure you check the INPA rough run during stratified IDLE and Homo IDLE (you can force the engine to each mode with INPA at IDLE). Usually if the injector is leaking it is more noticeable in Homo mode ie the rough run cylinder value varies a lot more from zero.

Another culprit causing rough idle is blown CCV membrane, bimmerprofs explains how to check this and you can buy a replacement membrane for DIY rather than replacing the expensive valve cover.

Keep us updated if you get to the bottom of the issue.

[Dormermike]

Rather than type stratified and deal with auto correct we could refer to the 2 modes as homo/nohomo

[schriss]

Originally Posted by leew88

Good to here you've successfully fitted and running the NOXEM.

In terms of rough run diagnostic make sure you check the INPA rough run during stratified IDLE and Homo IDLE (you can force the engine to each mode with INPA at IDLE). Usually if the injector is leaking it is more noticeable in Homo mode ie the rough run cylinder value varies a lot more from zero.

Another culprit causing rough idle is blown CCV membrane, bimmerprofs explains how to check this and you can buy a replacement membrane for DIY rather than replacing the expensive valve cover.

Keep us updated if you get to the bottom of the issue.

I will be rechecking everything after I put those two new injectors in.
The other thing I just replaced today was both VANOS Solenoids. According to Inpa (and Bimmerprofs), one of them was "floating" even when rpm and load were constant.
I put them in, then I've reset Vanos adaptations. Then I drive and it was a horror, very rough, check engine light came on, limp mode, jerky, and cylinder 4 and 6 misfires (4 and 5 are leaky ones). Rpm at idle was jumping like crazy and I thought I will not make it.
Then at a stop I reset codes, shut down, start back up - power is back and idle smoother than ever (still not perfect but better than before). Never seen rpm needle hold still for this long before.
At least can drive again
I hope replacing those leaking injectors will take care of rough cold start, then I will be happy.

By the way, I did clean those Vanos Solenoids weeks ago - zero effect. I guess can't "clean" faulting electronics or mechanical elements.

[schriss]

Injector No5 is replaced, old one was Index 9, new one is Index 11.
I coded it, did not delete any adaptations.
Then I run it idle for 5-10 mins. Can't say I notice a big difference, will see after some driving and on a cold start where it's the worst.
Next up will be No4, waiting for the package to arrive.
Injectors 4 and 5 were those which definitely leak, spark plugs were smelling fuel.
I guess I will replace all injectors one by one because all the old ones are Index 9 and who knows what they are spraying, maybe they are not producing uniform mist anymore.
I still feel jolts every now and then when it's idling, even when rpm is rock stable now after it settles.
INPA Rough Run shows way more movement than I would like, and clearly some injector is still bad because some are always on the + side, some are always on - side and two are hovering around 0. Which means one is not OK (typically the one with most negative value if it's a leaky one) and the other ones in same bank are compensated for that (so they are more on the + side).

[schriss]

OK after first cold start with injector 5 replaced, I see a huge difference. No more rpm jumping up and down in the first minutes. It's not super smooth yet, but almost.

[Dormermike]

Hi schriss nice one, sounds like good progress.

Something worth doing is fully charging the battery. My car does the occasional jolt when the battery is getting a bit low, usually in cold weather after a lot of short trips. I do a overnight charge every month or so and it seems to have cured it. Placebo maybe but the injectors take a fair bit of power and the engine itself needs a good strong spark.

Assuming the jolt is like the engine cut out for a brief moment like a split second.

[schriss]

Yea I think it's that kind of jolt. Very subtle. I only changed 3 spark plugs, planning to change the other 3 too, I know for sure 2 of those are a bit sooty black, only one is just light gray. The other injector still in the post.
On a side note, probably not related, I think my thermostat is gone, because my oil temp takes ages to get to 90C and only got to 100C when in standing traffic. Today got back from highway driving and oil temp is 90C. Engine hood is cold to touch. I'm used to my old E46 blowing lots of heat after long drive. This thing came back cold from 1h drive at 120km/h. There is a heat exchanger next to my oil filter housing, but I don't think there is anything there to replace. So I'm guessing coolant thermostat.

[Dormermike]

You don't need to guess. Read the codes. My n53 oil temp sits at 115-120

[schriss]

Originally Posted by Dormermike

You don't need to guess. Read the codes. My n53 oil temp sits at 115-120

But there is no codes shown in ISTA or Torque. I only have 1 code related to mirror.

[aaronblack]

Originally Posted by Dormermike

You don't need to guess. Read the codes. My n53 oil temp sits at 115-120

Interesting... my 330i sits at 100? Sometimes on 105/110 but rarely I thought it's because I'm using 5w40

I got no codes either!

[schriss]

Last time I was driving coolant was 70C, then I turned off heating and coolant went up to 90C, then I turned heating back on, coolant dropped to 70C. No codes, but I think thermostat is stuck open.
On my car there is a heat exchanger so oil will be running close to coolant temp and since that one is low, oil is probably low because of that, it's being constantly "cooled". Other engines I think have oil thermostat in the same spot where I have heat exchanger, in those the temps are probably very different.

[schriss]

Sadly, the cold start rpm jumps again happened this morning, it was not right after starting engine, but after I drove like 100m and went to stop. Rpm needle was jumping up and down like it was about to die, but never did. It was rhytmical, like every 2 seconds maybe. I wonder how much time passes until the same cylinder fires again on idle?
I still have only 1 leaky injector replaced, all other ones are old Index 9.

[Andystobbs]

A lot less than 2 seconds

[Andystobbs]

I always think VANOS with that sort of rhythm, especially if the vehicle idles worse after about 10 seconds than it does immediately after starting.

[Andystobbs]

We had a similar but quite pronounced hunting on our n43 which cost a few injectors and eventually was solved by a replacement lambda sensor.

[schriss]

I have both Vanos solenoids replaced already and I must say that helped A LOT to smooth out the idle.
I will look at lambda sensors, I do remember seeing some sensor voltage on the high end of scale in the red in INPA. But that was before I replaced anything.
One other thing I notice when driving in second gear there is a little bit of hesitation but also rhytmical. It's like something pulls back a little bit every now and then.
Right now waiting for second Injector to arrive, No4 is definitely leaking so will see what happens after I replace it.
By the way, got back from city driving in cold weather, coolant 80C, oil 90C.
EDIT: ctuna posted this: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...Eot8InPbrWix73 page 55, very interesting 4 temperature operating modes.