[kluski]

Originally Posted by Saintor

The last thing you want is not to be straight perpendicular and damage the threads of an aluminium head like I did decades ago.

I was careful to keep the extension straight when threading the plug in by hand to make sure there was no cross-threading.

Originally Posted by kylegritzan

... wasn't sure if there were any "wires" that need to be replaced as well.

No wires. There are coils on the plugs. I have heard people say don't worry about replacing them unless they fail. Otherwise, they are expensive x 6.

[Denny347]

It took me all of 30 seconds to disconnect the left side strut brace which gave me plenty of room to get the last 2 plugs out. Throughout the years I've changed plug in all of my cars, 1986 Mercury 2.3L, 1987 Mustang 5.0, 2002 Explorer V6, 1993 Passat Vr6, and 2009 VW Truareg V6. I just changed the plugs on the BMW for the first time, it has 87k miles on the clock. The Touareg was the easiest but the BMW was a close second. It LOOKS difficult but it is really easy. I bought the NGK replacements local for $12 ea. The originals looked worn but "healthy" so the engine is doing ok. The idle was not rough before but it seems smoother and it does have more "pep" than before. Nice to get things freshened up.

[Taxvictim]

To the OP who started this thread in 2009, THANK YOU. Had to change the ignition coil in the 6th cylinder, and your thread really helped. Saved me a ton by getting a replacement at Advance Auto then doing the work myself.

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by drexplode

check it out:

http://www.boschautoparts.com/BAP_Te...kPlugFaces.pdf

usually carbon build-up means short trips and/or incorrect A/F ratio mixture

also, do not apply lubricant to nickel coated style spark plug threads; which can lead to incorrect torque. Nickel plating is used to assist with easier installation. I know most people want to do it from old school tradition, but not with the nickel plated threads.

Very handy reference guide.

Yep, there is a big difference between dry torque and wet torque!! When I replaced the spark plugs on my car I did not use any lubrication, just replaced and followed the procedure that Bosch give - finger tight plus 90° which worked out to 28 NM. But therefore, if one insists on wanting to use some lubrication, then simply follow the finger tight plus 90°...

[balgopi]

I just changed my spark plugs, and then turned on my car to receive the SES light. When turning the car on, the engine would shake and it was not smooth. When I put the car into drive or reverse, then the car would "sputter" when I attempted to drive at low speeds.

I'm not sure what I did wrong. Did I tighten the spark plugs too tight?

I could check again and see if the coils are pushed in all the way, but what could be the problem guys? HELP!!!

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by balgopi

I just changed my spark plugs, and then turned on my car to receive the SES light. When turning the car on, the engine would shake and it was not smooth. When I put the car into drive or reverse, then the car would "sputter" when I attempted to drive at low speeds.

I'm not sure what I did wrong. Did I tighten the spark plugs too tight?

I could check again and see if the coils are pushed in all the way, but what could be the problem guys? HELP!!!

Did you plug all the coils connectors back in?

[Denny347]

Originally Posted by balgopi

I just changed my spark plugs, and then turned on my car to receive the SES light. When turning the car on, the engine would shake and it was not smooth. When I put the car into drive or reverse, then the car would "sputter" when I attempted to drive at low speeds.

I'm not sure what I did wrong. Did I tighten the spark plugs too tight?

I could check again and see if the coils are pushed in all the way, but what could be the problem guys? HELP!!!

It's missing out. One cylinder is not firing. Could be one of the coil harnesses isn't plugged back in. Over tightening won't cause this or any similar problem. Could also be a bad coil. If you can't pull the code, take each plug out, one at a time, and inspect them. The one not firing will be obvious as it will be wet with fuel and it will look new still.

[balgopi]

Originally Posted by Denny347

It's missing out. One cylinder is not firing. Could be one of the coil harnesses isn't plugged back in. Over tightening won't cause this or any similar problem. Could also be a bad coil. If you can't pull the code, take each plug out, one at a time, and inspect them. The one not firing will be obvious as it will be wet with fuel and it will look new still.

I plugged all the sockets back into each of the coils. I will make sure they're in again.

So, it has nothing to do with tightening the spark plug too tight? I tighten them about 90 degrees with my wrench after it was difficult to tighten with my hand.

do you mean pull each coil out one at a time to inspect or each spark plug one at a time?

I'm going to take out each coil, make sure each coil is pushed down, connected to its plug, and then try and start the car.

[Three_thirty_I]

I gather there was no misfire before changing the plugs? If so then I would start by inspecting the coil packs to make sure that the contacts are fine - test fit the old plugs to see if they "click" nice and solidly in to each coil pack. I highly doubt that a coil pack would stop working all of a sudden from changing plugs, but with the force required to remove and refit anything is possible. What you have done in terms of tightening is perfectly correct - finger tight and then 90 degrees etc.

You can as a last resort "find" the culprit by running the engine and unplugging one coil pack at a time - each functional coil/plug combination should make a difference when unplugged, but the one set that makes no difference is then the culprit...

[balgopi]

Thanks for the video.

I just unplugged the coils #1,2,3,4 and pulled them out, and then pushed them back in.

I stopped after #4 and then started the engine, and viola! No more stuttering and the car started up very SMOOTHLY, however, I still have the SES light on....
It seems to me that coil #4 was not pushed back in properly or I didn't have it in properly when I did the spark plug change yesterday.

Not sure what that could be.

Any suggestions?

[balgopi]

Update: My SES light went off 2-3 days after I fixed my previous problem during installation of spark plugs.

Everything is fine now.

[Three_thirty_I]

Okay, that's good to know! Maybe just needed to run for those few days to clear the errors or something like that...

[citizen_insane]

I am now confused. After reading like 3 threads, it's not clear which plugs are correct for my car.

I have a 2007 328i with an N52B30 in it. Which plug should I be using? I've seen threads suggesting both:

• NGK LZFR6AP11GS
• NGK PLZFR6A-11S
• NGK ILZFR6D11

My car was manufactured in 12/2006. Can anyone help clear this up?

[Phil325i]

Originally Posted by citizen_insane

I am now confused. After reading like 3 threads, it's not clear which plugs are correct for my car.

I have a 2007 328i with an N52B30 in it. Which plug should I be using? I've seen threads suggesting both:

• NGK LZFR6AP11GS
• NGK PLZFR6A-11S
• NGK ILZFR6D11

My car was manufactured in 12/2006. Can anyone help clear this up?

According to NGK USA's website, the two possible NGK plugs for your car are:

OE Laser Iridium - ILZFR6D11
Iridium IX - LFR6AIX-11

[citizen_insane]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

According to NGK USA's website, the two possible NGK plugs for your car are:

OE Laser Iridium - ILZFR6D11
Iridium IX - LFR6AIX-11

NGK's website is wrong, that is why I'm not relying on them.

I did a little more digging and I think I have a correct answer. The actual part number, as read to me off of the actual BMW part by a guy at the parts dept. Is:

NGK PLZFR6A-11S

This part number is synonymous with the BMW #12122158253.

This is what the dealership is stocking as the OEM replacement plug.

[AlanAZ]

Originally Posted by citizen_insane

I am now confused. After reading like 3 threads, it's not clear which plugs are correct for my car.

I have a 2007 328i with an N52B30 in it. Which plug should I be using? I've seen threads suggesting both:

• NGK LZFR6AP11GS
• NGK PLZFR6A-11S
• NGK ILZFR6D11

My car was manufactured in 12/2006. Can anyone help clear this up?

2/09 and EARLIER Spark Plugs/Ignition Coils: 12122158253(NGK PLZFR6A11S/BOSCH FR7NPP332); BOSCH 12137571643(BOSCH 12137594937 Upgraded Replacement)
3/09 and LATER Spark Plugs/Ignition Coils: 12120037663(NGK LZFR6AP11GS); BOSCH 12137594937

[El Cheapo Loco]

I looked on Amazon and it says NGK (5987) PLZFR6A-11S DOES NOT fit the '06 330i. Below are the ones suggested instead. Anyone can confirm?

NGK (6619) LFR6AIX-11
NGK (1208) ILZFR6D11

[citizen_insane]

Originally Posted by elcheapoloco

I looked on Amazon and it says NGK (5987) PLZFR6A-11S DOES NOT fit the '06 330i. Below are the ones suggested instead. Anyone can confirm?

NGK (6619) LFR6AIX-11
NGK (1208) ILZFR6D11

I'm pretty sure that Amazon is wrong. I called up a dealership and for my 2007 E90 (N52B30 motor) they said the NGK (5987) PLZFR6A-11S is the correct plug.

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by elcheapoloco

I looked on Amazon and it says NGK (5987) PLZFR6A-11S DOES NOT fit the '06 330i. Below are the ones suggested instead. Anyone can confirm?

NGK (6619) LFR6AIX-11
NGK (1208) ILZFR6D11

I used these and they are great for 330i. I changed them myself back in March of this year.

NGK (1208) ILZFR6D11

bought them on ebay for $65.00 free shipping.

[El Cheapo Loco]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

I used these and they are great for 330i. I changed them myself back in March of this year.

NGK (1208) ILZFR6D11

bought them on ebay for $65.00 free shipping.

Thanks. I checked realoem and both are valid for 330i, except one is platinum and one is iridium. All other specs are the same.

[y2khardtop]

I just pulled the plugs from my 06', they are NGK ILZFR6D11. With the online discount code (but local pickup), Advance Auto has them for $9 each (including tax). Picking them up later this morning.

[AlanAZ]

Originally Posted by elcheapoloco

Thanks. I checked realoem and both are valid for 330i, except one is platinum and one is iridium. All other specs are the same.

No. The NGK ILZFR6D11 was ENDED on 3/2007 and superseded by NGK PLZFR6A11S. ILZFR6D11 is no longer valid for your car. As you can read on the RealOEM page:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...17&hg=12&fg=05

The separate NGK and Bosch part numbers were retired in 12/2009 and consolidated into single part number. Read this entire tread for the history on that.

Citizen Insane is correct about what dealerships are currently installing in these engines for the build years discussed.

I'm pretty sure that Amazon is wrong. I called up a dealership and for my 2007 E90 (N52B30 motor) they said the NGK (5987) PLZFR6A-11S is the correct plug.

If you have the latest version of the coil, then you can use the latest NGK plug. Cars 3/09 and LATER, Spark Plugs/Ignition Coils: 12120037663(NGK LZFR6AP11GS); BOSCH 12137594937