[HyperM3]

Originally Posted by ettil

If someone wants to run it down the A pillar properly why are you so against it?

Im not, ease up there. No need to use those talons on me. I just like to do things where the less I have to take apart the better. I like to unmod just as quickly if I can. I applaud your process of ziptieing the wire under the a-pillar. Ive just found(through 3 hardwired cars) I prefer the stuff behind method.

As long as nobody can see the cords either way, its all whatever floats your boat.

[ettil]

Originally Posted by Booboo12

Easy extra mod step for the extra safety of your passenger... no cables crossing the airbag anymore...

+1 - I don't want to find out the hard way that my install of a radar detector caused any sort airbag deployment issue because I crossed the airbag.

[ettil]

Originally Posted by HyperM3

Im not, ease up there. No need to use those talons on me. I just like to do things where the less I have to take apart the better. I like to unmod just as quickly if I can. I applaud your process of ziptieing the wire under the a-pillar. Ive just found(through 3 hardwired cars) I prefer the stuff behind method.

As long as nobody can see the cords either way, its all whatever floats your boat.

I'm all for easy mods that can be undone (I drove around with blown speakers for a few years because I was hesitant to have my other car hacked up to put in new speakers & amps).

I just think this one is also a safety issue. It might not be in the end but as stated I really don't want to find out the hard way. A couple extra minutes is well worth the time to me.

And I'm familiar with all sorts of routing issues - this was v1 hardwire #6 with 3 of those removed before being sold

[Dr_Dirt]

Originally Posted by ettil

+1 - I don't want to find out the hard way that my install of a radar detector caused any sort airbag deployment issue because I crossed the airbag.

I would think that the airbag would rip through the telephone power cord like tissue paper.

[Ian335i]

Originally Posted by HyperM3

+1 good things! Now just be careful driving and dont assume the v1 will always save you.

+1

[bimmerFUD]

I got my V1 yesterday and hardwired it this morning...thanks a lot to everyone who contributed to this great thread!

By far the longest time spent was getting the wire from the bottom of the A-pillar to the fusebox.

A couple comments that might help others:

I went with the "ettil method" of removing the A-pillar cover. Note that after removing the Torx screw, there's a plastic tab that holds on the cover near the center. Just pull on the cover near the center and it should pop out. This tab needs to be re-engaged when you put back on the cover. The cover is also wedged in well at the bottom and you need to work it out carefully.

To keep the cover clean, definitely wash your hands beforehand. In fact, I'd wear gloves if I were doing it over again. I washed my hands very well and still got some smudges on the cover.

Once the wire is at the bottom of the A-pillar, to me it looked like ettil dropped the wire straight down to the fuse box. I spent at least a half hour trying to do the same and gave up. Instead, once the wire is well below the airbag, I routed it back out to the black rubber molding on the door side,
then to the fusebox as in bilbarstow's excellent photos on the first page.

To get the wire to the fusebox, I found it necessary to drop (but NOT remove) the panel below the glovebox, which is held in place by two Torx T20 screws. Be careful dropping this panel as it holds the footwell light and its wire that goes to the fusebox.

I grounded under the Torx screw (T30) at the fuse box. Very easy.

As others, I jacked into the #28 fuse location.

If you have a headlamp, wear it while working around the fusebox. It's hard to see in there otherwise.

Anyway, thanks for all the help!

[Kruz]

Digging up an old thread here...
So Im following this excellent DIY thread and Im down to the part where I find fuse #28 and notice my panel layout is different than that in that picture.

I find #28 on the diagram thats wedged in the back of the glovebox panel, its top left instead of top right btw, and confirm that #28 is in fact the Homelink fuse.

I pull the 5 amp fuse there stick it in slot A of my tap push it back in and notice it does not want to push in all the way because the 5amp in slot A is hitting the 2 fuses to the left of #28. I give it a little harder push and it goes in, but my 5amp in the tap is tweaked a bit. I ground the black wire using the Torx bolt, plug her in and fire the car up. Nothing.

I check the garage door/homelink buttons and they are working so I assume the 5amp in slot A is functioning properly.

I do have a couple questions that were not covered as far as I can tell...

1. Is the inline glass fuse on the hardwire necessary with already having a 5amp fuse? I checked it and the filamet seemed to be intact.

2. If it is not necessary can I cut out some of that slack and splice back together? I hate the birdnest look.

Help? Any thoughts?

[Josh49]

Originally Posted by Kruz

Digging up an old thread here...
So Im following this excellent DIY thread and Im down to the part where I find fuse #28 and notice my panel layout is different than that in that picture.

I find #28 on the diagram thats wedged in the back of the glovebox panel, its top left instead of top right btw, and confirm that #28 is in fact the Homelink fuse.

I pull the 5 amp fuse there stick it in slot A of my tap push it back in and notice it does not want to push in all the way because the 5amp in slot A is hitting the 2 fuses to the left of #28. I give it a little harder push and it goes in, but my 5amp in the tap is tweaked a bit. I ground the black wire using the Torx bolt, plug her in and fire the car up. Nothing.

I check the garage door/homelink buttons and they are working so I assume the 5amp in slot A is functioning properly.

I do have a couple questions that were not covered as far as I can tell...

1. Is the inline glass fuse on the hardwire necessary with already having a 5amp fuse? I checked it and the filamet seemed to be intact.

2. If it is not necessary can I cut out some of that slack and splice back together? I hate the birdnest look.

Help? Any thoughts?

Did you try flipping around the fuse tap 180 degrees. Check that first..

[Kruz]

Originally Posted by rgupta8

THANKS FOR THE ADIVICE!!!! i flipped the fuse tap and power!


however now i think there is a problem with the hardwire kit, anytime the wires move the power goes in and out looks liek a bit more troubleshooting left..... :mad:

Hmmm...I missed the old 180 flip. I'll try that.

[Josh49]

Originally Posted by Kruz

Digging up an old thread here...
So Im following this excellent DIY thread and Im down to the part where I find fuse #28 and notice my panel layout is different than that in that picture.

I find #28 on the diagram thats wedged in the back of the glovebox panel, its top left instead of top right btw, and confirm that #28 is in fact the Homelink fuse.

I pull the 5 amp fuse there stick it in slot A of my tap push it back in and notice it does not want to push in all the way because the 5amp in slot A is hitting the 2 fuses to the left of #28. I give it a little harder push and it goes in, but my 5amp in the tap is tweaked a bit. I ground the black wire using the Torx bolt, plug her in and fire the car up. Nothing.

I check the garage door/homelink buttons and they are working so I assume the 5amp in slot A is functioning properly.

I do have a couple questions that were not covered as far as I can tell...

1. Is the inline glass fuse on the hardwire necessary with already having a 5amp fuse? I checked it and the filamet seemed to be intact.

2. If it is not necessary can I cut out some of that slack and splice back together? I hate the birdnest look.

Help? Any thoughts?

1. No, not necessary. But as long as you're flowing less current than what the fuses are rated for, it doesn't effect you either. Having it there is like a second level of protection if anything.

2. Sure.

I think if everything else looks good, all the fuses look good, it might be the 180 degree flip that is needed..

[Kruz]

Haha....you knew about this trick too! Sorry, been reading and missed your post.

[Josh49]

Originally Posted by Kruz

Haha....you knew about this trick too! Sorry, been reading and missed your post.

No problem, go give it a shot and report back..

[Josh49]

Originally Posted by Kruz

Digging up an old thread here...
So Im following this excellent DIY thread and Im down to the part where I find fuse #28 and notice my panel layout is different than that in that picture.

I find #28 on the diagram thats wedged in the back of the glovebox panel, its top left instead of top right btw, and confirm that #28 is in fact the Homelink fuse.

I pull the 5 amp fuse there stick it in slot A of my tap push it back in and notice it does not want to push in all the way because the 5amp in slot A is hitting the 2 fuses to the left of #28. I give it a little harder push and it goes in, but my 5amp in the tap is tweaked a bit. I ground the black wire using the Torx bolt, plug her in and fire the car up. Nothing.

I check the garage door/homelink buttons and they are working so I assume the 5amp in slot A is functioning properly.

I do have a couple questions that were not covered as far as I can tell...

1. Is the inline glass fuse on the hardwire necessary with already having a 5amp fuse? I checked it and the filamet seemed to be intact.

2. If it is not necessary can I cut out some of that slack and splice back together? I hate the birdnest look.

Help? Any thoughts?

Re: the fitment issue, there's two sizes of fuse taps, did you get the mini one (the smaller one)?

Also The 5A fuse that is in the fuse originally should not be able to fit the fuse tap. The fuses that you use for the fuse tap are small and come in the package..

[Kruz]

Now Im confused...

The fuse tap is for mini fuses...the 3, 5, 7, 9 or whatever size mins that came with the tap are the same size and color as the 5amp fuse I pulled from slot #28.

I am at work right now...but I'll run out at lunch in a few hours and check it out.

Thx for the help!

[Josh49]

Originally Posted by Kruz

Now Im confused...

The fuse tap is for mini fuses...the 3, 5, 7, 9 or whatever size mins that came with the tap are the same size and color as the 5amp fuse I pulled from slot #28.

I am at work right now...but I'll run out at lunch in a few hours and check it out.

Thx for the help!

1. The fuse tap is for mini fuses.. check..

2. the 3, 5, 7, 9 or whatever size mins that came with the tap are the same size and color as the 5amp fuse I pulled from slot #28.

Really? The fuse tap I used, these fuses were smaller/different than the mini fuse. Maybe you got a different manufacturer of fuse tap or something. Something to look into, but I would try using solely the fuses that came in the fuse box package for the fuse tap. It's weird that you say they're the same size.. Hmm..

Good luck, let us know how it goes...

[Josh49]

Looks like the corners and edges are chopped off on the 2 fuse tap fuses so they fit nicely next to each other. As for spacing, maybe they're the same?? I don't know, I would just try using the 5 and 3 that came with the tap..

Just rambling..

[Kruz]

Hmmm...

I tried the 180 flip at lunch...no dice though I caught some strange glances as I was on my knees in the parking garage.

So after staring more closely at the pic above I noticed something...I may be an idiot.

There appears to be a 5amp in the A slot AND a 3 amp in the B slot.

I do not recall anything about the B slot but that would make sense as THAT is the fuse for the V1. I assumed it was sharing power with the 5amp fuse.

So I should be able to add a 3amp to the B slot and turn it on....I hope.

BTW...that picture looks nothing like the panel layout in my July 07 production E90.

I'll post some pics if I get it working.

[Josh49]

Yep. Fuse tap has two slots, one to protect the circuit you are tapping, and one to protect the v1 circuit..

[Kruz]

Im a dumbass....thanks Josh for all the help. Im sure this will work.

[Josh49]

Originally Posted by Kruz

Im a dumbass....thanks Josh for all the help. Im sure this will work.

No problem. Still got my fingers crossed for you though..

[Chowbow]

You need both fuses in the fuse tap, one is for the "original" fuse and another fuse for your V1.

I just did this last night, although I'm running in quite differently...

I have the hardwire to Homelink fuse #28, and from the block it goes to a remote audio which sits in the ash tray. From there, a long phone cord goes back to my V1 which is clipped onto my 3rd brake light.

I also have the concealed display which I'm going to fit inside the A/C vent, but it was too late and too dark to get started on that. The general set up looks pretty stealth though with nothing above the rear view mirror and the V1 totally tucked up against the 3rd brake light. And when everything is off, you can't see the remote audio controller, nor the concealed display unless you look for it inside the vent.

[Josh49]

Originally Posted by Chowbow

You need both fuses in the fuse tap, one is for the "original" fuse and another fuse for your V1.

I just did this last night, although I'm running in quite differently...

I have the hardwire to Homelink fuse #28, and from the block it goes to a remote audio which sits in the ash tray. From there, a long phone cord goes back to my V1 which is clipped onto my 3rd brake light.

I also have the concealed display which I'm going to fit inside the A/C vent, but it was too late and too dark to get started on that. The general set up looks pretty stealth though with nothing above the rear view mirror and the V1 totally tucked up against the 3rd brake light. And when everything is off, you can't see the remote audio controller, nor the concealed display unless you look for it inside the vent.

Sounds good, take some pics when you're all done..