[kiteboy]

else you how many time to replace both wastegate on turbo ?

[Rotorocious]

Originally Posted by bimmertt

I would think the wastegate would stay shut or would not open at normal capacity based on how much you tightened it. I don't know how you would actually be able to tell if the wastegate was stuck shut though.

I've been getting slightly worse gas mileage since doing it.

[skim7x]

I've had the rattling fixed twice by BMW... first time they flashed software, then replaced actuator tubing, then replaced actuators, then replaced turbo's... car was fine for several months and rattling came back... took the car back in and they flashed software, and replaced actuators. Rattling now occurs occasionally (pretty randomly), but is gone after the engine warms up... so I'm content at this point.

Solution? Turbo replacement... I'm convinced it's just these damn Mitsubishi turbos... can't wait until the turbo upgrades or single turbos have had time to really develop and mature... definitely be getting this done down the road...

[kiteboy]

yes but in fact all flashed software update , give lag after..

mee my car was on 01/07, and today no lag, i've got rattle only on front wastegate, i've bought 2 news ref actuator.

my way to eliminate this horrible noise, is to change only both actuator i think... whihout update flashing ECU by BMW!!!

[bimmertt]

Originally Posted by skim7x

I've had the rattling fixed twice by BMW... first time they flashed software, then replaced actuator tubing, then replaced actuators, then replaced turbo's... car was fine for several months and rattling came back... took the car back in and they flashed software, and replaced actuators. Rattling now occurs occasionally (pretty randomly), but is gone after the engine warms up... so I'm content at this point.

Solution? Turbo replacement... I'm convinced it's just these damn Mitsubishi turbos... can't wait until the turbo upgrades or single turbos have had time to really develop and mature... definitely be getting this done down the road...

Rattling is gone after the engine warms up because the latest software opens up the wastegates after around 30 seconds to a minute after start up. You can actually hear it stop rattling after a specific amount of time and it is consistent.

I think your case is actually a better example of why turbo replacement is not a solution. It sounds like your wastegates are still rattling, you just have the latest software to cover it up. The Mr.5 fix is an actual fix and I have no more rattle.

[M3 Eater]

I have had some trouble getting above 15 psi with my set up. I used to push 19 if I wanted but didn't have the supporting mods. Now that I do, the car will not push above 16 psi until I have boost built way up in 5th gear. Then i am on target.

I am wondering could a wastgate that has vibrated itself loose actually lose boost potential. I was looking at my rear wastgate (after rebuilding the induction tract about a dozen times looking for a leak) and noticed some new shiny threads on the bolt of the actuator. I am wondering if this adjustment might remedy a situation like that or if its even possible to loose high boost when an actuator rattles loose. Is there a measure of threads that should be visible( like an inch of thread, or inch and 1/2 of thread) that is standard?

I have an appointment for tomorrow at the dealership but I don't think that they are aloud to touch the waste gate actuator rod, just replace it.

[kiteboy]

i think full stock , both turbo are with 0.6 bar or 8.71 psi.

mee with my reprog stage 1 shiftec, 370cv and 522n.m. (speed limit out)

my turbo are with 0.7 bar (10.16 psi) in stabilization and 0.9 bar (13.06 psi) in boost...

my 335 here scheme

[335si]

Is there any way to get to the front turbo's actuator rod if you had a lift? The dealer just installed new turbos and I still have the rattle. I tried shortening the rear turbo's actuator rod but i couldn't hear any difference. Shortening (rotating the rod clockwise if you are sitting in the passenger seat facing forward) is the correct way to adjust the rod, correct?

I don't have the rattle at idle, but when I am in neutral and rev the engine quickly to about 1500 rpms and let off is when I hear a rattle/flutter.

I thought installing new turbos would fix this issue..

[marcvtec]

MR. 5 from your photo----to tighten the rod it goes to the right into the 10mm nut or the left into the actuator

[335si]

Originally Posted by marcvtec

MR. 5 from your photo----to tighten the rod it goes to the right into the 10mm nut or the left into the actuator

I would also like to know this...

[marcvtec]

Originally Posted by 335si

I would also like to know this...

me too
I think it goes into the actuator

[335si]

Originally Posted by marcvtec

me too
I think it goes into the actuator

I don't think anything goes into the actuator itself. You are adjusting the actuator rod by threading it into the metal fitting that is located toward the front of the car. Ideally, you would take this fitting off and turn the fitting to adjust the length of the actuatory rod...

[kiteboy]

are you sure that is a good method to ajust it ????

[import36]

Originally Posted by marcvtec

MR. 5 from your photo----to tighten the rod it goes to the right into the 10mm nut or the left into the actuator

bump for confirmation on which way to turn the rod...

[Rotorocious]

I did this a while ago but I'm pretty sure If you are facing the front of the car, you'd turn the rod clockwise.
So if your are leaning over the passenger fender looking down, you'd turn the rod away from you so it exposes more thread where the lock nut would go.

[bimmertt]

...

[caradd]

Originally Posted by 335si

Is there any way to get to the front turbo's actuator rod if you had a lift? The dealer just installed new turbos and I still have the rattle. I tried shortening the rear turbo's actuator rod but i couldn't hear any difference. Shortening (rotating the rod clockwise if you are sitting in the passenger seat facing forward) is the correct way to adjust the rod, correct?

I don't have the rattle at idle, but when I am in neutral and rev the engine quickly to about 1500 rpms and let off is when I hear a rattle/flutter.

I thought installing new turbos would fix this issue..

Unfortunately I'm in the same boat. Did the Mr. 5 adjustment on the rear wastegate rod ( turning clockwise) about 2 1/2 turns and nothing.

Seems like my front wastegate is the issue.

[335si]

Does anyone know if I have access to a lift and have the downpipes off, could i adjust the front actuator rod?

[kiteboy]

i think it is impossible to adjsut whitout remove the front turbo.. i'm in the same case of you ????

there is really no access , in compare to rear actuaotor !!!!!

[marcvtec]

I just did the rear one Yesterday, it solved 90% of the rattle
the other 10% is cold start up rattle and very slight rattle at very low rpm but no where near as load as before.

But now I can down shift into 3rd or 2nd and just hear the engine while decelerating (priceless)

[thwgw24]

can this be done without taking the turbo out off the car?

[dcorn]

Originally Posted by caradd

Unfortunately I'm in the same boat. Did the Mr. 5 adjustment on the rear wastegate rod ( turning clockwise) about 2 1/2 turns and nothing.

Seems like my front wastegate is the issue.

Sure you went the right way?

I just adjusted mine. Imagine you are standing in front of the car and facing it (drivers side on your right, passenger on your left).

To loosen the nut: With the wrench parallel to the ground on the passenger side of the nut, pull the wrench up towards the engine block.

To adjust the wastegate rod: With the 'wrench' parallel to the ground on the passenger side of the rod, push the wrench down towards the fender or ground. Technically, you are screwing the rod into the threaded fitting on the actuator.


(hoping this is right lol, about to drive home from work now and test it out)

Edit: It seems to have worked! I think I turned the rod about 2 times and all is quiet from what I can tell. Need to go drive around the city (where the rattle vibrates off the buildings and drives me absolutely nuts) to be absolutely sure.