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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Darwin RB EVO E92 335i
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10-08-2015, 06:00 PM | #177 |
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Bov has arrived
Inlets are in Darwin so today or tomorrow ill have them. Cars at mechanic for clutch install. Too bad I'm away for a month. |
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10-08-2015, 06:05 PM | #178 |
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I didn't notice a difference at 1st either, it seemed to take a while for the fresh fluid to bed in to notice the smoother engagement. I must admit occasionally I snagged a 1st-2nd shift but with the fresh fluid that never occurred again
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10-11-2015, 07:10 AM | #179 |
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I was going to order redline mt90, many ppl believe its the best for shifting fast.
Heard it needs time to warm up in cold climates but that's good for me as it rarely goes below 20 degrees. Got lucky with work! I'll be home on the wknd to pick up car and fit inlets, bov. |
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10-17-2015, 07:59 PM | #180 |
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Installing RB inlets and turbosmart plumb backs tomorrow.
I'll put a few photos up and tips for the inlet install. Clutch has not been installed yet. |
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10-17-2015, 08:34 PM | #182 |
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novice question...
when installing rb inlets, does that mean the dual cone intakes get relocated to the turbo side or is that just with tft? If not - can one still run stock airbox after installing rb inlets or is it better to run open afe/ injen style intakes? thanks |
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10-17-2015, 09:52 PM | #184 |
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10-17-2015, 11:32 PM | #185 | |
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10-19-2015, 04:42 AM | #187 |
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Picked up my inlets and plumb back dvs This morning.
Started installing inlets straight away. The front inlet is very easy. I first removed my intakes and stock diverter valves. Then take the two front bolts in inlet out and cut top and bottom of front inlet, make sure you remove all the coolant lines off the bottom of the inlet before pulling it out. Theres about 4 lines on it The new inlet literally fits straight in first go. The front inlet was cut out and the new rb inlet was put in by 10am. It took me ages to cut the rear inlet out. I had lots of different saws and knives but if your doing it you need a blade at least 400 mm long like a hacksaw blade or something a bit stiffer. Just cut the rear inlet from the bottom, cut it pretty much where it turns 90 degrees up. once that's done it comes out pretty easy literally 2 minutes just wiggle into position where its free and pull it. Getting rear RB inlet in.... Iv'e been at it for hours I don't know yet. Been going since 630 am picking up inlets than diverter valves at 8 am then started installing..... |
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10-19-2015, 05:17 PM | #188 |
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Need to buy a 600mm 1\2inch extension to take a bracket off transmission so I can pull inlet down.
I'll put a decent DIY up once its installed. |
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10-19-2015, 11:14 PM | #189 |
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I'm not having much fun with this rear inlet.
I put the inlet on the turbo with the clamp on but couldn't physically get in to tighten it. I have pulled the inlet back off the turbo, put the clamp on the opposite way so i can tighten it but now cant get it back on the turbo. It only has space for one hand and its tight. So close yet so far. All up I've spent 8 hours yesterday and 4 today. The front inlet took 2 hours including pulling everything off and installing it. |
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10-20-2015, 12:10 AM | #190 | |
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10-20-2015, 01:33 AM | #191 |
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Rear inlet installed!
F%^k me that was a pain. Doing it again would only take me a few hours but the first was a bitch. Ill put up my photos one here and make a new thread on "aus" section for DIY inlets. I should be able to save a few hours labour for people doing it. |
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10-20-2015, 01:58 AM | #192 |
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Take of air filters and diverter valves.
pull out two bolts that are connected to engine block, they are small star bits not sure of the size i have a photo of them pull inlet out of turbo cut top part of inlet cut bottom part of inlet pull off the radiator hoses on the bottom of the inlet theirs about 4 of them. then pull it out vacuum turbo if anything fell into into turbo install RB inlet, very easy will fit through in seconds. tighten up clamp on the turbo. leave the other end until you have rear inlet and are ready to install your air filters. you might have to dodge something up to keep clearance around the pulleys as it sits close and if unsupported may rub on pulleys. |
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10-20-2015, 02:21 AM | #193 |
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Rear inlet
take out two screws that are attached to engine block, there is no room for even a 1/4 inch ratchet so i used set of vice grips and the small star bit. i stripped one si just levered the inlet off it and undone the crew later with vice grips. take out the front down pipe. I only took this one out to complete the install, I didnt need to take the other downpipe out. i took off the bracket that was connected to the oem downpipes. its photo is below with two long torx bolts. you need room for your hand to work on the rear inlet and i cant see it being done without pulling it off. This requires a 500mm extension bar and an e18 torx bit and wobbler connection and 100mm extension, if you can get a 3/8th bars and wobbler it may be easier as my 1/2 inch was really tight to fit. You only need to cut the bottom square off right near the turbo snout. it pulls out pretty easy. for this you will need something like a hacksaw blade about 400mm long and stiff enough to hang onto and with sharp serrated teeth to chew through it quickly once that is done you can put in new inlet. when you slide it in try push it down diagonally towards turbo, i tied the end of my inlet up with sticky tape to get it over one of the lips, i tried for hours and couldn't get it down until i squashed it and tied it and got it first go. I put the clamp on the turbo snout at the size that fitted around the silicone house plus a little bit 2-3mm of slack. Put the clamp on with the screw facing the drivers side when its on the bottom this way you can actually tighten it. i put it the other way first and had to take it off. Pull the inlet down enough to slide onto the snout and feel around until you can pull the clamp over the silicone. put the srew at the bottom of the snout and you can now see it and tighten it. if its too losse and you cant get your screwdriver onto it just wedge something under it to take slack and slowly pull it out as you tighten. |
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10-20-2015, 07:24 AM | #194 |
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Well done mate.
You should take a trip to Sydney just to do installs for these. Charge $500-$600 a pop. I'm sure there will be at least 10 to do. Line them all up over 3-4 days. Quick $5k. |
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10-20-2015, 07:39 AM | #195 |
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Totally finished, just emailed buraq for a base pump tune for breaking clutch in.
So stoked its done. Cant wait for the HKS exhaust to turn up. It would be a bit hard doing it in Sydney. I can offer help if needed just pm me. If anyone's in Darwin I would offer a hand doing any install work. Last edited by Brule; 10-20-2015 at 07:54 AM.. |
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10-20-2015, 04:59 PM | #196 |
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Sounds like an epic install mate!
Great to see you got it done in the end, I bet you had a great deal of satisfaction with that Let me know when you're coming down to newcastle to visit your mate at maryville my inlets should show up in a few weeks maybe |
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10-20-2015, 05:51 PM | #197 |
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Drives: N54 135i 6MT
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Great write up Brendan.. not looking forward to installing my VTT inlets now
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10-20-2015, 06:15 PM | #198 |
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I was happy until i put the roller door down on the back of my car cause there is so many tools and stuff lying around.
Scratched it in a few places back to a black colour. It was going up and down while I was in the kitchen. Installing them should be easier with some of the hints in here. Just went for a 15km drive. Only took it easy but you can hear and feel boost come in about 1000rpm earlier driving lightly. Buraq's sending me a slow map to drive around on for clutch break in. Thinking about doing the clutch myself. I was planning on it before i started the inlets, and I'm still keen. |
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