[Buug959]

Originally Posted by Serf27

After removing the fuel pump top hat and fiddling with it multiple time, the line issue is no more.
I double checked that the fuel level sensor was free and could move around.

The fuel gauge won’t show more than a 1/4 tank, but it does drop below 1/4 to show I’m low on fuel.
So now I get to take the pump out for what seems like the millionth time.

On the bright side, you should be good at it by now.

[cehrl7]

I installed a MAD 5" FMIC yesterday on my 2011 335i M Sport. The fit and finish on the intercooler is excellent. The only issue I had was the driver's screw head broke. I have installed several FMIC before and never had a screw break.
I tried to drill it out, but no luck with the plastic enclosure. Luckily the passenger side came out fine. I ended up using 5 heavy duty zip ties on the driver's side and the oem bolt on the right.
Currently running MHD stage 1+. I plan on installing a catted dp and flashing MHD stage 2+.

[4 Doors]

TLDR: 800 square feet of garage floor tiles do indeed fit in a BMW E91 wagon.

Yesterday, I traveled across 4 states (Michigan, Indiana, Ohio, Kentucky) round-trip to pickup used garage floor tiles off a Facebook Marketplace listing. I'm in Michigan and they were in Kentucky. Nothing a little road trip and an E91 can't handle!

I checked my tire pressure and all fluids the night before. As well as removing my roof box as a last minute decision. I figured I would get better gas mileage without it, which I did. However, when I arrived I thought "Oh man…this might not actually all fit without the roof box!" I was kicking myself. The lady and her husband looked at me like I was crazy. She said "I don't think these will all fit." Little did she know this wasn't my first rodeo. I knew what the E91 was capable of fitting.

Luckily, I got all 800 sqft of free-flow open/smooth rib tiles into the E91! I believe they are either Swisstrax or Racedeck brand, and I only spent $200 + about $100 in gas to get all of it! All other listings were about $1000-$2000 for a similar amount of tiles!

No issues there or back with the E91. I averaged about 31-32 mpg on the way there. Then about 27-28 mpg on the way back. The added weight definitely was the culprit…plus some increased "flow of traffic" All completed in about 12 hours and 750 miles.

I plan on cleaning and power washing them up before installing in my garage.

[Karlos20945]

Noticed my fuel economy was a bit rubbish lately and thought nothing of it. Then I discovered an annoying low rumble from the rear at motorway speeds, that got slower and quieter as I slowed down and came off the motorway. Stopped and checked the wheels, to find the right rear was red hot. Took that brake caliper off to find the pads are almost worn away and the piston partially seized. Gave up, reassembled it and took it to the garage. They'll do it today and drop it off. New caliper, discs, pads, wear sensor and a fluid flush. It won't be cheap but what can you do?

[Runnin'Rich]

4 Doors, you're my e91 hero!
Love the plate too

[Wolf 335]

Valve cover gasket (VCG) changed.
Vanos solenoids cleaned.
Leaky injector replaced.

@ 347,000 km (216,000 miles)

A few take aways from valve cover gasket job:

It's an Easy DIY.
- For those thinking about doing the job, it is super easy.
- A bit time consuming due to me cleaning up every crevice.
- I can't believe I've paid someone before to do this job.
- Take your time and make space for yourself. You don’t want anything interfering with the install.

Clean up before you start.
- I vacuumed and cleaned up the surrounding areas as much as I could.
- I then blew everything with compressed air.
- I didn’t want any dirt falling in and causing issues.
- Have plenty of brake cleaner and rags at disposal.

Be safe.
- You are working with highly pressurized fuel system. Wear safety glasses!
- Disconnect the negative cable from the battery and fold your rear seats in case you lock the trunk.
- Open your fuel tank cap to relieve pressure.
- Release pressure from fuel rail.

Fuel Rail.
- I released the pressure from the main fuel rail connection near the filter housing.
- Wrap a towel around and slowly disengage the nut.
- I disconnected the fuel lines at the injectors. Not at the high pressure rail.

Valve cover and gasket were seized to the head.
- Could not get the cover to separate from the cylinder head.
- Finally, a liberal amount of penetrating fluid along the perimeter and a plastic drywall putty knife did the trick.
-I would highly recommend spraying penetrating fluid the night before.

Notorious after leak from the heat shield.
- As for the heat shield tray above turbos, I did not remove it.
- There is a lot of discussion on oil being trapped in between the two folds of the metal.
- Left over oil leaking out after the vcg is replaced confuses people into thinking that the gasket wasn't installed properly.
- I simply sprayed a lot of brake cleaner on it and cleaned it with a towel until you could eat off it.
- It took about a week for all the diluted oil to seep out and burn off from the heat shield and surrounding areas.

Spark plug sleeves.
- Take them out before removing the valve cover.
- Put them back in after installing the valve cover.
- Pop them into place and then using a larger socket tap into final position.
- Don’t remove spark plugs.

I used an OE gasket from BMW.
- Gasket comes in a bag and is twisted up.
- I laid it out as it would be in the cover and left it in the sun while I disassembled everything.
- I recommend doing this as it helped the gasket get to its shape.
- I didn't use any sealant.
- Gasket went into grooves of the cover nicely and it stayed in during install.
- Before torquing everything down I went around the perimeter of the valve cover and verified that the gasket was seated properly. I did this with a flashlight and a mirror. This step is a must.

I reused the Bolts.
- They are steel and were in good shape.
- I removed the bolts from the valve cover.
- The bolt sleeve keeps them secured in the valve cover.
- With a bit of force, they pop right out.
- In my case I drew out a template on a piece of cardboard and pushed each bolt in its location as it would be on the cover.
- Each bolt was returned to the exact same position once the valve cover was installed.
- I would recommend not removing the bolts from the valve cover, just leave them in.

[tcphoto]

Good job, there's nothing more gratifying than a successful DIY project. I merely washed mine and made sure it's ready for another 600 roadtrip in less than 36 hours for work. I love seeing the MPG indicator settle on nearly 30MPG for a change.

[SPDSKTR]

Not today, but just a couple days ago, I used Bimmercode to code the welcome lights on ("hard" on since the LED bulbs don't seem to enjoy the "soft" on; and yes, those are the two choices in the app) as well as a few other things.

Today, specifically, I installed a new jack pad and I'm waiting for my new wheel speed sensor to come in. The only thing really left to do is to get the 330i software flashed and code out the seat occupancy sensors for the airbags, but I'm having one hell of a time getting the software to work. I've followed every guide I've found and still no dice. What do?

[Hoody007]

Originally Posted by SPDSKTR

Not today, but just a couple days ago, I used Bimmercode to code the welcome lights on ("hard" on since the LED bulbs don't seem to enjoy the "soft" on; and yes, those are the two choices in the app) as well as a few other things.

Today, specifically, I installed a new jack pad and I'm waiting for my new wheel speed sensor to come in. The only thing really left to do is to get the 330i software flashed and code out the seat occupancy sensors for the airbags, but I'm having one hell of a time getting the software to work. I've followed every guide I've found and still no dice. What do?

What software are you attempting to setup?

Make sure the latency timer in Device Manager is set to the lowest setting. Windows has a way of messing with that periodically (surprise, I know…)

[Dirtleg]

Originally Posted by Hoody007

Do you have access to INPA / NCS Expert?
You could code in the TPMS menu in the Kombi, or simply reset the system via INPA.

I assume your CCC is totally dead? Another alternative is to source a used one on ebay (but I presume you’ve already considered this).

I do have access to INPA/NCS. Guess I should have spent more time looking through the menus.

And CCC is totally dead. Screen blinks on for a second every minute or so. Controller knob just freewheels.

Thinking I'll update to the CIC system rather than fix this one. Prefer the better graphics of the newer setup.

At the end of the day I have to remember this was a $3k car that needed some attention. Don't want to be sinking big $$ into it. I tend to go down rabbit holes. Trying hard to avoid that here.

[SPDSKTR]

Originally Posted by Hoody007

What software are you attempting to setup?

Make sure the latency timer in Device Manager is set to the lowest setting. Windows has a way of messing with that periodically (surprise, I know…)

I downloaded the Bimmerlabs package, skipped deleting and replacing the folders like it said, set the latency to 1, set it to COM1, and I'm getting an "Error: PABD not found!" message now.

[dephrank]

No power from the 12v socket so couldn't charge my phone on the go. Learned something new about my fuse box today and discovered another 12v under the glove box.

[P14kle]

Hand applied a coat of Fusso Wax on for the winter months... Now my arms feel like they are gonna drop off! 😣 At least I only need to do it twice a year.. Phew 🥳 💪

[tcphoto]

I just returned from a 600 mile roundtrip in 26 hours and all was well, except for the outward leg. An hour out, there was a major accident on I40 near TN Hwy94 and I shot the dash showing 30.1MPG then covered 10 miles in 90 minutes. In reality, the number is really about 28.5 but I'm still impressed. When I came to the accident, it was a charred skeleton of a semi trailer. Hopefully, everyone got out and weren't hurt.

[MidWillamette335d]

Did wheel spacers, 12 front / 18 back...284 style wheels on a 335d with H&R springs. No before front pics...

[Hoody007]

Sent out the 850i’s EDC shocks to Poland to be rebuilt. Shipping costs were…breathtaking!
They were absolutely cooked. Fronts had leaked out shock oil everywhere, the rears were better but had absolutely no rebound.

Can’t buy the shocks new at any price, didn’t want to delete EDC, Poland was the only option…

[lordbmw]

Examined my vacuum lines, all looked good so no replacing yet.

[Badwolf1970]

Spent 8 hours cleaning and polishing

[StradaRedlands]

Hoped to get an aluminum interior to re-sell from the wrecker, but someone got there first and bent it all to hell getting the central stack out :-/ Secondary goal was to pull a starter to have as a back up, but all the donors were just shot.
I ended up piecing together a spare kit from several cars. Tire and foam storage piece from one E60, jack from another, lug wrench from another, an finally the wheel chock from my garage!
I put it up for sale. If anyone is interested, HMU!

[The Nightman]

Originally Posted by StradaRedlands

Nursed it home with what is probably a dead alternator. Battery light popped on as I drove into work this morning. Used a jump pack to top it off and start it, with 12.2V showing. Drove home in the 107F heat dome with the a/c off, but made it home with the battery reading 10.9V and the engine still running! I'll check ground strap, but pretty sure the problem is the 220,000 miles on the alternator. It don't owe me nuthin'.

Did you fix this? Curious if it's the voltage regulator

[The Nightman]

I stopped being a control freak and learned to love auto climate control. However, automatic mode on the E90 doesn't seem as automatic as other vehicles, where recirculation and air conditioning are also automatically enabled. My workaround was to code the IHKA to remember the last used air circulation and air conditioning settings, so that I can truly set it and forget it.

[lordbmw]

Originally Posted by NoGuru

New wheel.

https://carbonsociety.us/

They did a great job and only took about 6 weeks.

Nice, I have 2010 e92 335i with the sports steering wheel with those dreadful push pull button/levers. I absolutely hate them.

Will that steering wheel work on my car?

My steering wheel looks like this:
https://i764.photobucket.com/albums/...heel_bmw_1.jpg