[tcphoto]

If it's quite dirty, I'd spray with an engine degreaser and use a brush to attack the stubborn areas. Then I'd use something like Simply Green and a brush then rinse with water in a spray bottle. Once you're satisfied, I'd dress with 303 Protectant. After this, future cleanups should be easier. The first cleaning should involve putting the front on ramps and pulling the belly pan in order to clean any oil and road grime. I remember doing the VCG nearly two years ago and spending time cleaning the area, it's amazing how clean it has remained.

[StradaRedlands]

Used my handy Foxwell tool to code out the condition based service for oil changes. I maxed out and couldn't re-set any longer with the normal button push, so had to say so long, farewell to that feature. Gosh, I'll just have to remember to change oil on my own now!!!



I did come across these new codes when I was in there, not sure about this...

[alpinacsi]

I decided it was time to change out the wood and do something different. At least different for me.

[fastboatster]

I bled 3 brake calipers, then decided to flush the clutch system as well, and looks like my clutch master and slave now have lots of air. My car has what TIS calls a "plastic slave cylinder", and TIS just says to use a pressure bleeder, open the bleeder screw and all is good, which is what I did and now I have lots of air in the clutch system. How would you bleed the system in this case?
One video I've found suggests removing the slave cylinder and manually depressing the actuator rod plus keeping the clutch pedal depressed to get the air out of the master cylinder:

P.S. looks like the fluid level in the reservoir needs to be almost all the way to the top in order for the fluid to get into the clutch hydraulic "compartment" in the reservoir. it makes sense now that I could only see the air gushing out of the bleeder screw with no fluid at all.

[R3dLeader]

Originally Posted by fastboatster

I bled 3 brake calipers, then decided to flush the clutch system as well, and looks like my clutch master and slave now have lots of air. My car has what TIS calls a "plastic slave cylinder", and TIS just says to use a pressure bleeder, open the bleeder screw and all is good, which is what I did and now I have lots of air in the clutch system. How would you bleed the system in this case?
One video I've found suggests removing the slave cylinder and manually depressing the actuator rod plus keeping the clutch pedal depressed to get the air out of the master cylinder:

P.S. looks like the fluid level in the reservoir needs to be almost all the way to the top in order for the fluid to get into the clutch hydraulic "compartment" in the reservoir. it makes sense now that I could only see the air gushing out of the bleeder screw with no fluid at all.

No need to remove the slave. What you need to do is push fluid into the system from the bottom of the system at the slave bleed npple. Buy a large syringe or an oio can. Fill it with brake fluid and pump it into the system from underneath (with the reservoir cap open. There are a few videos and threads on this if you search.

[fastboatster]

Originally Posted by R3dLeader

No need to remove the slave. What you need to do is push fluid into the system from the bottom of the system at the slave bleed npple. Buy a large syringe or an oio can. Fill it with brake fluid and pump it into the system from underneath (with the reservoir cap open. There are a few videos and threads on this if you search.

Found these threads late last night, might try this method. I was using pressure bleeder slightly “unconventionally”, I was using it to pressurize the reservoir and fluid in it with air, not pushing the fluid from the pressure bleeder itself.

[AlpineBoost]

Replaced the stock TMAP with a 3.5 BAR sensor. No longer getting 2ABC and 3100 @ 22 psi.

[E91_AKD]

Decided to make a custom enclosure to house a 12" for the E91. Box is finished as far as build and seal just need to carpet the top and install.

[fastboatster]

Originally Posted by fastboatster

Found these threads late last night, might try this method. I was using pressure bleeder slightly “unconventionally”, I was using it to pressurize the reservoir and fluid in it with air, not pushing the fluid from the pressure bleeder itself.

I couldn't find a proper dosage syringe or something which would fit the plastic tubing I used for bleeding the brakes, so I just poured the brake fluid into the pressure bleeder reservoir as it's normally intended to be used instead of using it to force the air into the master cylinder brake fluid reservoir and voila, all the air got forced out of the clutch system very quickly. Finished up by bleeding the last brake caliper (front driver side) and seem to be done. I also changed the oil and the oil filter on Friday, yesterday I discovered that the oil is seeping from the drain plug - apparently, the Mercedes drain plug washers I was sent listed as compatible with BMW, were actually not. So replaced the washer with OE one today as well, and it seems to be dry. Overall, changes 2 fluids this weekend - oil and brake fluid.
BTW, would somebody tell me why the shift selector rod seal is very prone to leakage? is this because it wears out very quickly on the manual transmission because you have to shift almost all the time unlike on the AT where the selector moves maybe twice for the entire trip. The selector rod seal also doesn't appear to be well-protected from dust and debris. Has anybody figured something out for it?
P.S. forgot to add that since my clutch hydraulic system was dry, I also did a CDV delete. Shifts are now def smoother.

[fazm]

Originally Posted by E91_AKD

Decided to make a custom enclosure to house a 12" for the E91. Box is finished as far as build and seal just need to carpet the top and install.

Let's see some pics

[E91_AKD]

Some progress pictures of the enclosure

[4 Doors]

Finally got a chance to clean it up!

[oVeRdOsE.]

E91 parked for 7 months and had few issue even if parked.... wtf

- seal cover leak on the exhaust
- Fan wont work
- brake wear sensor broke

So did replace all the seal on the cover, nice no more oil smell.
Bypass the sensor.

BUT, the blower fan wont work, e90post propose to oil the damn thing. WORKED ! but I have a new oily smell now hahahah

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by R3dLeader

No need to remove the slave. What you need to do is push fluid into the system from the bottom of the system at the slave bleed npple. Buy a large syringe or an oio can. Fill it with brake fluid and pump it into the system from underneath (with the reservoir cap open. There are a few videos and threads on this if you search.

thanks, I removed the clutch delay valve, and the vicegrip pop out while working on it so I probably get air into the system . Then I bleed the slave just like a caliper, which did not work very good, Car run fine, but smooshy feel. Will do the good procedure.

removing a CDV on a xdrive : how to turn a 25 min job into 1h30 hours.... fml

[E91_AKD]

Just turned 98k. Pulled over on the side of the road right now to capture the mileage and not accidentally turn before I got a chance to take a photo lol. I love my wagon! TPMS on using spare set of wheels while originals gets curb rash repairs from previous owner.

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Not the BMW, but the Subaru!

- Bled the brakes. Did you know the 2018 Impreza's brake bleed order is Front Right, Front Left, Rear Left, Rear Right? Yeah. Weird. It's in the service manual.

- Replaced the air filter

- Replaced the cabin air filter

- Changed the rear diff fluid. It takes a specific 75w80 GL5 fluid which only comes in a 5 gallon bucket from Subaru. I was able to find an alternative from Motul. Pain in the ass to actually research and find. Tons of GL4 out there, not many GL5s in that weight. It will accept 75w90 but you'll lose some fuel efficiency.

I'm not touching the front diff and instead having the shop do it. There are horror stories of people literally cracking the transmission housing by over tightening the fill and check bolts, and that little thing is tightened to 37 foot pounds. For $100 to drain and fill, I'm not gonna risk it. Pick and choose your battles!

[R3dLeader]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

thanks, I removed the clutch delay valve, and the vicegrip pop out while working on it so I probably get air into the system . Then I bleed the slave just like a caliper, which did not work very good, Car run fine, but smooshy feel. Will do the good procedure.

removing a CDV on a xdrive : how to turn a 25 min job into 1h30 hours.... fml

Been there done that lol. Had my fair share of struggles.

To reiterate: to bleed the clutch it is easier to push fluid from the bottom (slave) which allows gravity to do its job and the air gets pushed up and out the reservoir (it will bubble) leaving fluid in the lines.

If you do the opposite and try to push fluid down from the reservoir, well it just runs quickly through the line and out the slave, drawing air into the lines. Gravity pulls the fluid right out quickly and air fills its place.

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by R3dLeader

Been there done that lol. Had my fair share of struggles.

To reiterate: to bleed the clutch it is easier to push fluid from the bottom (slave) which allows gravity to do its job and the air gets pushed up and out the reservoir (it will bubble) leaving fluid in the lines.

If you do the opposite and try to push fluid down from the reservoir, well it just runs quickly through the line and out the slave, drawing air into the lines. Gravity pulls the fluid right out quickly and air fills its place.

Ill pull the fluid from the slave I think. I've a oil pump that I had to bought for a ZF8 service, I think it will work . Just like this video

[Brian86]

Damaged a front tire and bent a rear wheel on a giant pothole.

Was pushed on the right shoulder by a clown in a bro-dozer that was cutting across the center line on a left hand bend.

There was a BIG hole over there. Full water bottle flew from the dash cupholder right into my lap.

Front tire has a snake bite/gash on the inside sidewall and was losing air. Wheel looks straight. Had to top it up a few times but it got me home. Rear tire is oK, but the rim has an inside lip bend.

I am SUPER annoyed when my tires don't all match perfectly. I've got the same tire on order, but it's going to have several extra /32s of tread. Guess I'll have one to keep as a spare when this set is worn down.

I broke a belt on a set of old street tires at the track on the M3 last weekend, now this. It's been a long run of very good luck with tires. I suppose I'm due.

Note this is with 16" #156s on non-runflats. That combination has been super durable. I've hit some pretty hard stuff without any new bends, but it still isn't invincible.

----------

Ninja Edit

Can confirm that the old-school ABS based tire diameter pressure monitoring system works. Popped on when I was down from about 34 to 26.

[GdCole]

Originally Posted by nsjames

today's how hard can it be? headliner repair.
turns out about 6 hours worth, with 2 hours of that being real hard work.
remove all glass
then undo the fasteners and finangle the sun shades out.
Spend two hours scraping old foam and glue off sun shades. I found spraying it with resolve and using the shopvac hose as a chisel to scrape with the most effective. It sucks. You shouldn't do it.
Then carefully glue your fresh from the washing machine headliner fabric back on with some 3m headliner adhesive.
All while terrified you're gonna wrinkle it so you stick cardboard under it so you can do it 2 inches at a time.
then just reassemble and adjust.
After you clean, grease and treat everything you touched.
because rules.
I got a few glue bumps, maybe 3. Not bad for a first time ever attempt. It's acceptable.

That looks pretty great I'd say.....my first battle with the 3M adhesive was, let's say, a bit more, um, sticky

[StradaRedlands]

Big day! Can finally call the car mine!!!

[Seattlesquash]

I would just change the fan and motor, easy as you know and got one fir just $80 or so and worked great. This: