[Thomachaan]

Solved: Replaced DME with a cloned one.

*Diagnosed DME as faulty by measuring voltage at the bit serial data (BSD) line with all components unplugged (waterpump, alternator, oil condition sensor, intelligent battery sensor). Reading was a constant DC 0.8v (no square wave signal or AC).

*Verified repair by replugging waterpump and running coolant bleed procedure. It correctly varied speeds instead of full blast emergency mode, so, DME can now communicate through this line

OP:
Hello, I'm going to diagnose my BSD line and need help to rule out my DME, would appreciate any help and advice, specifically on whether a signal should be present if all BSD users are disconnected (IBS, alternator, waterpump, and oil condition sensor). I'll have an oscilloscope, amp clamp, and new Bosch starter in the next few days, and while replacing starter will check everything I can with the manifold out (like the crank sensor). Car has not been driven since this occurred.

I caused the issue. Finished the valve cover job but left one of the overhead ground straps undone. Engine started fine but while running I tried placing the strap back on and caused a HUGE spark that shut the engine down. In the past two weeks I've only gotten it to start once briefly. Based on what I read in searches, issues resulting from those ground straps can possibly take out everything on the BSD line including DME. There's not a lot of info out there on how to test individual modules and parts unplugged.

My car is a 2009 BMW 328i xDrive, N51 engine. The only code which reappears from DME after clearing is 2E7C. Other issues that show up on iDrive and dash are Passenger Restraint Malfunction, transmission malfunction (I don't think the gear shifter is actually shifting gears now) and "P" not engaged, and DSC/AWD malfunctions (sometimes turning the steering wheel all the way left and right clears, sometimes it doesn't). INPA only shows DME 2E7C when checking Functional Jobs. When key is switched to ignition on, the water pump runs (maybe full speed). That makes sense, it's running on emergency mode since there's a BSD error. Sometimes there's no crank (just hear clicks in engine bay), lately it cranks no start. Sometimes the key won't eject, I'm able to wiggle it out without breaking anything.

Car had no codes prior, just a bunch of oil leaks I wanted to take care of. This car came to me from a family member, I'm told it's on its original water pump. I personally drove the car from NJ to CA and back in the last 6 months, no problems along the way. It would start really slow nearly every time but always managed to start, summer and winter.

At the very least I need to get the engine running again to keep the internals clean, and diagnose each remaining electrical issue from there.

What I've checked:

-I opened the DME, pins and board look clean, no evidence of a burn.
-Checked the CAS3, key reader, and ignition button, no visual evidence of burns or damage.
-Pulled out every related fuse from the fuse box (and one 40A in ECU box), cleaned, and tested with a multimeter.
-Pulled out and tested 3 relays with a 9v battery (1 in glove box 'CAS relay' and two in ECU box). I also opened them up and cleaned out contacts. Turns out you can unclip the moving contact for easy cleaning access.
-Unplugged IBS, alternator, and oil level sensor in different combinations, no change in codes and no start.
-Pulled out positive battery cable, checked BST under plastic cover. Doesn't look like it blew. Tested the BST ignitor pins resistance, got ~0.2ohms. I thought it'd be closer to 1 or 2 based on online hacks connecting a 1-2ohm resister to fool the plug.
-Pulled out negative battery cable, no signs of corrosion at contact points and no visible issue inside plastic casing. The IBS itself is too integrated with the terminal to open up further to check out.
-Opened the power distribution box that sits above the battery, the fusible links look good and test out on a multimeter.

What I'm going to check:

-Back probe BSD line with nothing connected, and PT-CAN line (possibly what's causing all the other issues).
-Fuel pressure, then the regulator and pump if there's an issue.
-Battery check at an auto parts store.
-Throttle body function (need to find out how to electronically move the throttle plate to see if it works).
-Trace wires connected to that ground strap, and trace grounds and BSD pins in DME to transistors/IC's. I have a soldering rework station for anything that needs replacing. Otherwise I'll need a new DME/CAS/key set and coding, and I'd be down 1 key after recently getting a spare from dealer =(

I'll post as I move along. I'm taking pics and videos when I remember, but it feels useless till I reach some level of success with this. Been greatly appreciating all the info I've found on this forum. I couldn't have gotten this far without this place.

[Thomachaan]

Just got my battery checked at Advance Auto Parts (after fully charging with my Duracell SLC10005 7.5A battery charger), it's in bad condition. Although it managed to start the car before, things may have changed so can't rely on it.

If NCS Expert can communicate with the module to update battery registration, I'll try a good condition lead acid battery I have, and replace with an Everstart Maxx H8 after it runs.

My Bosch starter came in from an Amazon 3rd party, looks like it was used based on box and item condition =( Going to return for a replacement, if they can't provide a new one, I'll go with FCP Euro.

Will also be pulling out the JBE and checking out the insides. I really with a burnt component would show up somewhere.

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by Thomachaan

Just got my battery checked at Advance Auto Parts (after fully charging with my Duracell SLC10005 7.5A battery charger), it's in bad condition. Although it managed to start the car before, things may have changed so can't rely on it.

If NCS Expert can communicate with the module to update battery registration, I'll try a good condition lead acid battery I have, and replace with an Everstart Maxx H8 after it runs.

My Bosch starter came in from an Amazon 3rd party, looks like it was used based on box and item condition =( Going to return for a replacement, if they can't provide a new one, I'll go with FCP Euro.

Will also be pulling out the JBE and checking out the insides. I really with a burnt component would show up somewhere.

Not sure if your BSD hunt is really worth while. I had a faulty alternator take out my BSD line and I could still drive the car.
Its possible your "spark" took out your alternator but you running problem is probably something else.

Do you have INPA? Hook up and see if you can communicate to you CAS and DME. You can try executing some of the DME test routines and reading errors.

If nothing shows up, go old school. check for Spark and fuel.

[Thomachaan]

Originally Posted by rjahl

Not sure if your BSD hunt is really worth while. I had a faulty alternator take out my BSD line and I could still drive the car.
Its possible your "spark" took out your alternator but you running problem is probably something else.

Do you have INPA? Hook up and see if you can communicate to you CAS and DME. You can try executing some of the DME test routines and reading errors.

If nothing shows up, go old school. check for Spark and fuel.

DME test routines?

Any advice on how to check spark? I'm thinking to remove all 6 spark plugs, have them all on their coil packs, somehow ground the spark plugs to the engine body, and remove the fuel pump fuse(s). Then take a video while turning over the engine and see if they all light up. I haven't found any specific e90 safe testing methods.

I just got a fuel pressure gauge, and will check the intake manifold while replacing the starter, just in case a rag got sucked up in there blocking air. I wouldn't put it past me.

BSD diagnostics is how I'm going to get my oil level reading back and fix my water pump issue without just replacing and hoping for the best. These pumps take a lot of current in full emergency mode, and I'm pretty sure that's how my aging battery ended up dying. I'm afraid to try starting the car with a new battery till the water pump works right. I'm otherwise doing ignition and fuel tests with the water pump unplugged.

[rjahl]

Do you have a DCan cable and INPA installed on a laptop?

[Thomachaan]

Originally Posted by rjahl

Do you have a DCan cable and INPA installed on a laptop?

Yes, & NCS Expert & updated daten files. What are the INPA tests?

[rjahl]

The program or script for the INPA - MSV80 has several pages that allow you to perform many different individual tests. You can monitor just about everything the DME reads and make changes to many parameters as running tests, Nothing like Insta D but I prefer INPA for it's speed.

I'd start by pulling all of the current and history codes for the DME, CAS and Electric Fuel pump modules.

[Thomachaan]

Weather's been rough so haven't been able to do much. Can any let me know if the strange VIN #'s on this screenshot are indications of module failure or software corruption?

Also, decided to change out my starter motor to rule out weak links and that turned into a whole intake refresh. Cleaned out all the oil and unclogged the PCV heater, and now figuring out a solution to repair my big DISA (epoxy vs the ridiculous price of the only available Russian rebuild kits).

I tested and have fuel pressure, but transmission still won't move out of neutral and key still gets stuck. When key is removed, or when open the door to re-enter car, the dash shows the yellow key symbol and dings as if I left my key in.

[matteblue3er]

Did you check the non-serviceable fuses on top of the battery? You need to replace the entire fuse block if one is blown

[Thomachaan]

Yup, they look good and test fine for continuity.

[Thomachaan]

It's been like 3 months since my car's been down, but I've ruled out a lot since. Would really appreciate any insight to start my car.

I'm convinced my issue lies with the car not knowing what gear it's really in, probably why it won't release the key. Dash shows N regardless of where shifter is. Either force my key out, or pull out the black relay in the fuse box which releases key. If I disconnect the key slot from its connector, it still won't release.

I opened and cleaned up my relays and checked for function with a multimeter and a 9v battery. Don't know if it behaves differently under load.

Park does physically engage, I checked by rolling a little back on my driveway, switching between N and P.

Checked the shifter wires based on stories online, saw plastic wore off on 2 wires. Taped them up. No change.

Since I changed the starter, I took the time to check and clean up the entire intake. Cleared out a clogged PCV heater, repaired my big DISA which was freely moving on shaft, then tested both DISAs and throttle body through INPA, all flapping fine now, and PCV hoses are all solid and pliable.

Tomorrow should be good weather here, going to check my mechatronics connector for oil. If that's not it, idk, need helpz.

[F31B48]

Originally Posted by Thomachaan

It's been like 3 months since my car's been down, but I've ruled out a lot since. Would really appreciate any insight to start my car.

I'm convinced my issue lies with the car not knowing what gear it's really in, probably why it won't release the key. Dash shows N regardless of where shifter is. Either force my key out, or pull out the black relay in the fuse box which releases key. If I disconnect the key slot from its connector, it still won't release.

I opened and cleaned up my relays and checked for function with a multimeter and a 9v battery. Don't know if it behaves differently under load.

Park does physically engage, I checked by rolling a little back on my driveway, switching between N and P.

Checked the shifter wires based on stories online, saw plastic wore off on 2 wires. Taped them up. No change.

Since I changed the starter, I took the time to check and clean up the entire intake. Cleared out a clogged PCV heater, repaired my big DISA which was freely moving on shaft, then tested both DISAs and throttle body through INPA, all flapping fine now, and PCV hoses are all solid and pliable.

Tomorrow should be good weather here, going to check my mechatronics connector for oil. If that's not it, idk, need helpz.

What are the fault codes that are present now? Do you still have transmission faults stored?

[Thomachaan]

Originally Posted by EvaBmw

What are the fault codes that are present now? Do you still have transmission faults stored?

I was waiting till I put most of the car back together, but I'll post what I have. Attached are a snapshot from weeks of disconnecting and reconnecting things like my DSC, and another snapshot after I cleared the codes. Any of these preventing the car from starting?

I'll post another clear set of codes today.

[Thomachaan]

I got my car to run today!

First Start:
Waterpump and MAF were unplugged. Black relay in fuse box was removed, cycled around ignition (won't start like this) (wipers move after a few seconds with ignition on). While ignition was on, I inserted relay back in, then with brake pedal down I pushed the button and it started up nice. Then it chocked itself out within a few seconds. Tried again and it stayed on for like 15mins. All kinds of smells and smokes came out for a bit, probably from the fogging oil, sitting for months, and the valve cover job.

-No throttle response. Pressing throttle while idling dipped idle.
-P, R, N, and D work, not displayed on dash.

Second Start and Run:
I plugged the waterpump and MAF back in. Car would not start, it would turn over for a fraction of a second then give up. Thinking it could be the deep cycle marine battery I was temporarily using not having a high enough voltage, I went and got an H8 AGM battery (Die Hard Platinum from Advance Auto Parts, the guy before me in line gave me a 20% off coupon he wasn't going to use! Love and kindness and all that good stuff).

After install, same behavior. I did more shuffling with the relay and it started up nice! Still no throttle in P or N, but light power in R and D. Drove it around the block, but the smoke started to change and I smelled stuff.

I'm looking into finding a shop to diagnose exactly which modules/parts are not working. I'll post the codes I have, would appreciate help in figuring out of the DME, CAS, throttle body, transfer case module, or anything else is faulty before I head over to a shop.

Thanks for the help, guiding, and the wealth of information in this forum community! Though it's been a rough ride, I've enjoyed working on this car over quarantine and learned to appreciate my car all the more

[Thomachaan]

I've noted down all the errors presently showing up through INPA Function Jobs:

JBBF:
C918
C914

MRS:
93FB
93B2

DME:
2A87
CD99
CD9E
CD98
CD9D
CD9C
CDA5
CDBE
CD95
2E7F
CDB0
2A00
2D29
2E7C

EGS:
578E
5658

VGSG:
54C6
55C3

DSC:
6E0F
D358
5F2F

CAS:
A0B1
A0B5

FZD:
A670

KOMBI:
A3AB
A3AA
A3AC
A3B9
A550
A556
A3C3

MASK/CCC:
E1E3
E1CF
E1E0

FRM:
A8B7
A8C3
A8B6
A8C4
E597
E599
E594

Car sometimes starts, sometimes doesn't (would turns over slowly for a split second then stop). Sometimes releases key, sometimes doesn't. Seems related to battery charge. Gas pedal sometimes works in P and N, sometimes doesn't. Transmission sometimes works, sometimes doesn't, when it does it won't go past 2nd gear.

Are these signs of any specific module(s) for sure being bad? A 12v line somewhere gone bad? Corruption of any CAN lines? Would appreciate advice on how to pinpoint problems.

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by Thomachaan

I've noted down all the errors presently showing up through INPA Function Jobs:

JBBF:
C918
C914

MRS:
93FB
93B2

DME:
2A87
CD99
CD9E
CD98
CD9D
CD9C
CDA5
CDBE
CD95
2E7F
CDB0
2A00
2D29
2E7C

EGS:
578E
5658

VGSG:
54C6
55C3

DSC:
6E0F
D358
5F2F

CAS:
A0B1
A0B5

FZD:
A670

KOMBI:
A3AB
A3AA
A3AC
A3B9
A550
A556
A3C3

MASK/CCC:
E1E3
E1CF
E1E0

FRM:
A8B7
A8C3
A8B6
A8C4
E597
E599
E594

Car sometimes starts, sometimes doesn't (would turns over slowly for a split second then stop). Sometimes releases key, sometimes doesn't. Seems related to battery charge. Gas pedal sometimes works in P and N, sometimes doesn't. Transmission sometimes works, sometimes doesn't, when it does it won't go past 2nd gear.

Are these signs of any specific module(s) for sure being bad? A 12v line somewhere gone bad? Corruption of any CAN lines? Would appreciate advice on how to pinpoint problems.

I would "follow the power". Record voltage at different locations while trying to start the motor. What's getting to the starter, DME or fuse block. Use the Same negative connection that's device uses.

Use long leads on your voltmeter or a friend to help with the starter switch. Also some of the crappy digital voltmeters might do a poor job reporting fluctuating voltages. Either they average too slowly or too quickly.

[Thomachaan]

Originally Posted by rjahl

I would "follow the power". Record voltage at different locations while trying to start the motor. What's getting to the starter, DME or fuse block. Use the Same negative connection that's device uses.

Use long leads on your voltmeter or a friend to help with the starter switch. Also some of the crappy digital voltmeters might do a poor job reporting fluctuating voltages. Either they average too slowly or too quickly.

Would you please recommend any more specific points to check? Like where would I tap in for the fuse block?

I can record multiple voltages on a graph, so I'd try:

-Positive jump post under hood (basic battery voltage).
-Solenoid wire? going to starter from wirebox under intake manifold.
-DME main 12v.
-BSD line without the components plugged in (the goal of my OP). Based on stuff I read, if it reads a constant 0.8v, I'm gonna do some SMD rework on the DME (replace TJA1020), nothing to lose if it has to be replaced.anyway.

I don't know where to tap in to check the trans and transfer case. Planning to overhaul my alternator. I'll report what I find.

[F31B48]

Wow that is a shitload of fault codes. After you have done those voltage tests, you should maybe consider downloading ISTA and running all the test modules for those fault codes. The test modules will give you guided diagnostic steps for each fault code and tell you what wires or sensors or circuits you should be checking and testing. It also has all the wiring diagrams integrated into it.

[Thomachaan]

Edit: Air mass and mixture codes were because I forgot to reconnect the PCV to intake boot hose, it's a sneaky little one.

Finally got ISTA+! It was a pain to find but I'm now running v4.26. After running tests, clearing codes, running tests again, running the car for a bit, and running tests again, these are the codes I have:

0093B2 - MRS: Safety battery terminal. [Existent]
(Followed the test procedure, removed connector, checked resistance between the pins, should have read between 1.5-2.5ohms, but values jumped between open circuit and shorted as I moved it. Opened the positive terminal plastic case, link never shot off, but I used channel lock pliers to jam it in place a little more. Will need to be replaced at some point.)

002E7C - BSD data bus communication fault. [Existent]
(Symptoms: waterpump on full blast, alternator at 14.2v, no oil level).

0029E0 - DME: Mixture control. [Not existent]

0029E1 - DME: Mixture control 2. [Not existent]

002D06 - DME: Air mass system. [Not existent]
(These mixture and air mass codes showed up after car entered limp-home and idle fluctuated for about 15s till it stabilized.)

S 0757 - Check the fault memory for permanent SAE fault code. [Existent]
(I don't know what to do with this on ISTA.)

0057BE - EGS: Gearbox oil wear. [Existent]

005658 - EGS: Gearbox position sensor malfunction. [Existent]

0054C6 - VTG: Oil wear. [Existent]

0055C3 - VTG: AWD limp-home control activated. No DSC specified nominal torque. [Not existent]

005F2F - DSC: Transmission interface. [Existent]

00A0B1 - CAS: Input, selector-lever position, implausible. [Existent]

Voltages at fuses are reading battery level within 0.1v. I'll play around more on ISTA and its test procedures, read CAN and voltages, and report what I find. Not giving up.

[matteblue3er]

Maybe these may help.

A draw test after the car sleeps may indicate modules that are not going to sleep and may point you in the right direction. A typically if the module cannot fall asleep, something is keeping it awake and you can back trace from there.

Good luck

[F31B48]

Originally Posted by Thomachaan

Edit: Air mass and mixture codes were because I forgot to reconnect the PCV to intake boot hose, it's a sneaky little one.

Finally got ISTA+! It was a pain to find but I'm now running v4.26. After running tests, clearing codes, running tests again, running the car for a bit, and running tests again, these are the codes I have:

0093B2 - MRS: Safety battery terminal. [Existent]
(Followed the test procedure, removed connector, checked resistance between the pins, should have read between 1.5-2.5ohms, but values jumped between open circuit and shorted as I moved it. Opened the positive terminal plastic case, link never shot off, but I used channel lock pliers to jam it in place a little more. Will need to be replaced at some point.)

002E7C - BSD data bus communication fault. [Existent]
(Symptoms: waterpump on full blast, alternator at 14.2v, no oil level).

0029E0 - DME: Mixture control. [Not existent]

0029E1 - DME: Mixture control 2. [Not existent]

002D06 - DME: Air mass system. [Not existent]
(These mixture and air mass codes showed up after car entered limp-home and idle fluctuated for about 15s till it stabilized.)

S 0757 - Check the fault memory for permanent SAE fault code. [Existent]
(I don't know what to do with this on ISTA.)

0057BE - EGS: Gearbox oil wear. [Existent]

005658 - EGS: Gearbox position sensor malfunction. [Existent]

0054C6 - VTG: Oil wear. [Existent]

0055C3 - VTG: AWD limp-home control activated. No DSC specified nominal torque. [Not existent]

005F2F - DSC: Transmission interface. [Existent]

00A0B1 - CAS: Input, selector-lever position, implausible. [Existent]

Voltages at fuses are reading battery level within 0.1v. I'll play around more on ISTA and its test procedures, read CAN and voltages, and report what I find. Not giving up.

Looks like you may possibly have a faulty transmission position switch, which would explain why you were having issues with gear positions not showing. It also looks like you have an air leak on banks 1 & 2. Have you run through the test module for the EGS position sensor?
I think the BSD test module says to disconect the BSD components one by one and then monitor the status of the BSD error in ISTA. When it changes from present to not present, the component that has just been disconnected is the culprit.

[MightyMouseTech]

Just curious, have you checked the main engine ground strap by the drivers side engine mount?