[Carefree]

Originally Posted by GregW / Oregon

Received my order today, but they forgot to send the rears! First time with this company and not off to a good start.

Ask for a full or partial refund on shipping charges for the inconvenience.

Worst case scenario is “no”.

IMO

[DarkNight707]

Originally Posted by MineralGreyMetallic

Just bought the 1500s and the M brake clips in prep for incoming wheels.

Once installed, let us know your impressions. I am still trying to decide between 1500 or 2000.

[Kevin_The_Clean1]

Originally Posted by GregW / Oregon

Received my order today, but they forgot to send the rears! First time with this company and not off to a good start.

That's why I recommended RG Sport instead.

[ScottyRyan2019]

Originally Posted by Kevin_The_Clean1

That's why I recommended RG Sport instead.

Mine shipped a couple days ago. Due this Tuesday

[MineralGreyMetallic]

My box from Autecknik was curiously covered in RG Sport tape. *shrug*

[ScottyRyan2019]

Originally Posted by mineralgreymetallic

my box from autecknik was curiously covered in rg sport tape. *shrug*

🤣🤣🤣👍

[Carefree]

Update for all the isweepers,

Washed car today after 300 miles with new pads.

Rinsed wheels (ceramic coated) heavily with pressure washer. Used a foam cannon to smother each wheel with soap and let stand for about 3 minutes then vigorously rinsed with pressure water. Didn’t use a brush or mitt. Wheels are sparkling clean.

Hoping your experience is similar to mine.

Edit: for interested parties, soap I’m using is Adam’s “Mega Foam”. YMMV

[GregW / Oregon]

Originally Posted by Carefree

Ask for a full or partial refund on shipping charges for the inconvenience.

Worst case scenario is “no”.

IMO

Actually worked out fine time wise.

[GregW / Oregon]

Installing the iSweep 1500s now. First corner on, second will be a breeze. Rears slightly more difficult because of the electric parking brake. Those calipers are massive compare to my F82's. VT Forged wheels go on Thursday.

[BroDoze]

Any tips on the pad install?
Do you need a caliper spreader?
Do you need to remove the cap on the fluid reservoir?
Have any torque specs?
None of the bolts are single-use are they?

[GregW / Oregon]

Originally Posted by BroDoze

Any tips on the pad install?
Do you need a caliper spreader?
Do you need to remove the cap on the fluid reservoir?
Have any torque specs?
None of the bolts are single-use are they?

Re: fronts
- There are no bolts, just two M12 nuts (14mm wrench). Torque of the nuts is 95 Nm (70 ft lb) per the TIS. Technically supposed to replace the nuts, but that may be overkill.
- Remove pad securing pins before taking off caliper; clean with Scotch-Brite or equivalent.
- If you don’t have many miles on the car you may not need to spread the pistons, but I found it helpful in getting the caliper back on. Needed a soft face hammer to get the caliper off.
- Used silicone grease (ATE Plastilube or equivalent) on backs of the pads and pad sliding contact points
- Doing rears today, which are slightly harder because of the electric parking brake. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hva0-gY8qGA. Tightening torque for rear M12 bolts is 130 Nm (95 ft lb).

[///M TOWN]

Thanks for posting your experience

For some reason, I hate cleaning wheels these days. I’m not sure why it seems so daunting but it’s right up there with cleaning the inside of the cars windows!
It seems like an endless task

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by chris719

It is both. The rotor wears, otherwise they would last forever. Both carbon-ceramic brakes (SiC) and PSCB (tungsten carbide coated) produce very little dust and both have extremely hard rotors. The total surface area of the rotor is much greater than the pad, so 0.5mm of wear on the rotor is "worth" much more pad. The exact ratio is all over the place and I'm not sure what numbers to believe.

Yes, but these type of pads make the rotors nearly immortal

[GregW / Oregon]

Did the rears yesterday. The electric parking brake motor needs to be removed which is kind of a PITA, but doable. After that and manually rotating the mechanism you do need to depress the piston with a tool. I also found getting the bolts to the specified 95 ft lb of torque is difficult when not using a lift to give adequate wrench clearance. Now to go bed them in.

[BroDoze]

What is the forum's defacto new-brake break-in/brake-in procedure?

I'm sure there's 100% unanimous agreement on the method(s)?

[GregW / Oregon]

Originally Posted by BroDoze

What is the forum's defacto new-brake break-in/brake-in procedure?

I'm sure there's 100% unanimous agreement on the method(s)?

Many will suggest "bedding" by doing multiple hard brakes from like 65-20 mph, which I have done before, but really don't think is necessary unless your rotors are grooved.

[Carefree]

My procedure was unique, daring, and innovative.

I drove the car.

[Kevin_The_Clean1]

Originally Posted by Carefree

My procedure was unique, daring, and innovative.

I drove the car.

Ya... But did the pads get bedded & were the rotors properly seasoned... ? Normal driving doesn't allow the pad material transfer material to get hot enough to leave that deposit of film on the surface of the rotors required for maximum stopping power.

[Carefree]

Originally Posted by Kevin_The_Clean1

Ya... But did the pads get bedded & were the rotors properly seasoned... ? Normal driving doesn't allow the pad material transfer material to get hot enough to leave that deposit of film on the surface of the rotors required for maximum stopping power.

Bedded, seasoned, renewed, re-energized, revitalized, and dust free.
Thanks for your interest.