[team7]

I have a 2009 328xi wagon. Went to drive the car Friday and everything lights up but when I push the start button I just get a click. The click is coming from the starter.

I thought the battery might be bad as it slow cranks in the cold but that had no effect. I then replaced the starter which made no effect either. One thing thing that seems odd is the t the key won't eject for a few minutes. I tried two sets of keys fobs with the same result.

I recently replaced the valve cover gasket and coil packs but have been driving the car without issue for a month.

[Mosaud1998]

Did you check for codes?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by team7

... 2009 328xi wagon... everything lights up but when I push the start button I just get a click. The click is coming from the starter. [Single click as opposed to Multiple, Ratchet-like clicking?]
I thought the battery might be bad as it slow cranks in the cold but that had no effect. [So the Starter Cranked at LOWER RPM the last several months?] I then replaced the starter which made no effect either. One thing thing that seems odd is the t the key won't eject for a few minutes. I tried two sets of keys fobs with the same result...

Could be (1) Bad Engine/Starter Ground Cable (Under car); (2) Bad B+ cable to starter (check transfer point below & forward of Battery); (3) P/N Switch/ wiring or Brake-light Switch/ wiring on AT or Clutch Switch on MT, but if Starter Clicks once, then (3) NOT likely.

BEFORE testing as below, measure & record Battery Voltage (1) at the Jumpstart Terminals under Hood, and (2) at the battery posts. Measure voltage AGAIN at the Jumpstart Terminals after Starter Solenoid Clicks.

Quick way to determine if Ground Cable is bad: Apply a "Supplemental Ground" between Chassis & Engine Block, using a single Jumper Cable; one end connected to Jumpstart Chassis Ground Hex-Pin on Right Wing/ Fender, and Other end connected to large bolt head or bracket on Engine Block. If Starter Cranks normally with supplemental ground, replace ground cable beneath car near starter.

Measure Voltage at Jumpstart Terminals under hood and compare with voltage measured at battery POSTS in boot. If more than 0.1V difference, have helper Push START Button while you measure Voltage Drop at Jumpstart Terminals under hood.

Of course if you're holding out on us and you have INPA installed, let us know as there are EASY screens to check most of this stuff (P/N Switch, Brake-light Switch, Clutch Switch, KL50 Volts & Amps (CAS Starter Activation) when START pressed, etc.

Please let us know what you find,
George

[team7]

Mosaud1998 I have a brake pad light that I need to take care of. I dont have a scanning tool but when I use the service tool in the dash I get codes for the brake pads. The one that seemed off was CCID-354 which is "start assist inactive" which got me excited but when I researched this it seemed like it was related to the ABS. This could also be due to the fact I replaced the battery and ive got the AWD light on since it hasn't been driven to calibrate.

gbalthrop thank you for this as Ill grab my multimeter, which I barely know how to use, and test those spots. That jumping the ground would also sound easy enough.

I just noticed your red questions. First, yes it is just one strong click. It sound like something is engaging in the starter but not trying to start. Definitely not multi ratchet like clicking. I know exactly what you are talking about and that's not it. Just one solid click. It did this on both the old starter and new.

Your second question about the low RPMs. Yes in the cold it would crank slowly just like the battery wasn't putting out enough juice. When the car first wouldn't start I had no question in my mind...it was the battery. I put it on a trickle charger, got it to full and that was my first surprise it wouldn't start. I keep my car in a garage so its never been so slow I was worried, I juts noticed it was on its way out especially when it would sit outside when at work. Bought the new battery and still no change.

[team7]

That jumper idea got it to turn over one crank...so it's a grounding issue. Thank you so much! I'll report back once it's running.

I did try the multimeter and had solid 12v at engine, battery, and engine after starter click.

[team7]

That did it. Grounding strap up on passenger side was half way snapped. Used some 4 have I had laying around. The one by the starter looks blue so that will be next. Thanks for the direction.

[Aidas027]

Hey guys,

I seem to have the same problem, the car starts up fine if cold in the morning, absolutely no problem, but when i shut down the car after a drive and try to start it , it only clicks, but no start. After it sits for a few hours the car starts up fine. Check ground with canbles and tried to jump start it, still no start. What could be the cause?

[itsjxsee]

Aidas027 I just had this happen to me today. Gonna be replacing battery tomorrow and seeing if that fixes issue. Also gonna diagnose the starter and possibly the alternator as well so I will keep ya updated if you haven’t fixed your issue already!

[Aidas027]

itsjxsee Nope haven’t fixed it yet, going to be replacing the starter and seeing what happens. Such an anoying problem 🤣.

[itsjxsee]

Aidas027 yeah man it’s super annoying. My uncle is a BMW tech and I work at BMW too so we’re gonna check it out tomorrow and further diagnose so I’ll update you on what my fix was. Might be a mix of both but we shall find out tomorrow

[Aidas027]

itsjxsee what have you done to the car? Or is it stock? I bought my car from America and shipped it here, so it has some American shananigans done to it.

[itsjxsee]

Aidas027 only thing done to my car is a cat back magnaflow exhaust and LED halos but other than that it’s stock. Kinda wanna keep it OEM+ when it comes to mods. What yours come with from the states?

[Aidas027]

itsjxsee Does it sound good with the magnaflow? Mine has a muffer delete (someone in America did it) and it is starter to get really anoying, drone is insane on the highway. Yea it has a salvage title, bought it on copart shipped it to Lithuania. Someone you had the car really really neglected it.

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by Aidas027

Hey guys,

I seem to have the same problem, the car starts up fine if cold in the morning, absolutely no problem, but when i shut down the car after a drive and try to start it , it only clicks, but no start. After it sits for a few hours the car starts up fine. Check ground with canbles and tried to jump start it, still no start. What could be the cause?

You need q new starter. ☝️😎

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by itsjxsee

Aidas027 yeah man it’s super annoying. My uncle is a BMW tech and I work at BMW too so we’re gonna check it out tomorrow and further diagnose so I’ll update you on what my fix was. Might be a mix of both but we shall find out tomorrow

You need a new starter as well.

[itsjxsee]

Aidas027 it has a little bit of a drone but it’s manageable. I think it sounds pretty good and even my uncle who prefers cars to be stock likes the sound so not too shabby. Has baby burbles too so that sounds great too.

[itsjxsee]

GoRomeo yeah I’m gonna knock both out. Thank you brother☝️☝️

[dez320]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Could be (1) Bad Engine/Starter Ground Cable (Under car); (2) Bad B+ cable to starter (check transfer point below & forward of Battery); (3) P/N Switch/ wiring or Brake-light Switch/ wiring on AT or Clutch Switch on MT, but if Starter Clicks once, then (3) NOT likely.

BEFORE testing as below, measure & record Battery Voltage (1) at the Jumpstart Terminals under Hood, and (2) at the battery posts. Measure voltage AGAIN at the Jumpstart Terminals after Starter Solenoid Clicks.

Quick way to determine if Ground Cable is bad: Apply a "Supplemental Ground" between Chassis & Engine Block, using a single Jumper Cable; one end connected to Jumpstart Chassis Ground Hex-Pin on Right Wing/ Fender, and Other end connected to large bolt head or bracket on Engine Block. If Starter Cranks normally with supplemental ground, replace ground cable beneath car near starter.

Measure Voltage at Jumpstart Terminals under hood and compare with voltage measured at battery POSTS in boot. If more than 0.1V difference, have helper Push START Button while you measure Voltage Drop at Jumpstart Terminals under hood.

Of course if you're holding out on us and you have INPA installed, let us know as there are EASY screens to check most of this stuff (P/N Switch, Brake-light Switch, Clutch Switch, KL50 Volts & Amps (CAS Starter Activation) when START pressed, etc.

Please let us know what you find,
George

Hey guys,

I seem to have the same problem; I hear a click in the engine bay, but the car does not start.
A friend told me it's the starter motor and I bought one from eBay (second hand), but when I installed it, I experienced the same behaviour. I contacted the seller, and they sent me another one - installed it and still the same behaviour.
I then decided to bench test the starter motors (yes, I know I should have done this before ordering (( ) - all three starter motors have passed the bench test.

I have been reading through various posts and landed on this one.

The voltage at the battery posts is 12.33v but at the jumpstart terminals under the hood is very low 3.20v – I'm using Ultrics multi-meter.
Could this be the issue why the car doesn't start? Any help on this will be highly appreciated.
Dez

[eljay]

Originally Posted by dez320

Hey guys,

I seem to have the same problem; I hear a click in the engine bay, but the car does not start.
A friend told me it's the starter motor and I bought one from eBay (second hand), but when I installed it, I experienced the same behaviour. I contacted the seller, and they sent me another one - installed it and still the same behaviour.
I then decided to bench test the starter motors (yes, I know I should have done this before ordering �� ) - all three starter motors have passed the bench test.

I have been reading through various posts and landed on this one.

The voltage at the battery posts is 12.33v but at the jumpstart terminals under the hood is very low 3.20v – I'm using Ultrics multimeter.
Could this be the issue why the car doesn't start? Any help on this will be highly appreciated.
Dez

Please check the thread above.
Check the ground straps.

[dez320]

Originally Posted by eljay

Please check the thread above.
Check the ground straps.

Thanks eljay, i have done the ground strap test, as per ""Quick way to determine if Ground Cable is bad: Apply a "Supplemental Ground" between Chassis & Engine Block, using a single Jumper Cable; one end connected to Jumpstart Chassis Ground Hex-Pin on Right Wing/ Fender, and Other end connected to large bolt head or bracket on Engine Block."" - the starter doesn't crank.

I then put on a charger to the battery to see if it will give the Jumpstart terminal under hood more power, but i'm only getting 5v. The 3 wires below the terminal have different reading - the two next to each other are reading 5v, the other small one reads 12v like the battery reading. I'm guessing the terminal gets power from the other two. I have attached the images.

What else can i please check?

[dez320]

Originally Posted by dez320

Thanks eljay, i have done the ground strap test, as per ""Quick way to determine if Ground Cable is bad: Apply a "Supplemental Ground" between Chassis & Engine Block, using a single Jumper Cable; one end connected to Jumpstart Chassis Ground Hex-Pin on Right Wing/ Fender, and Other end connected to large bolt head or bracket on Engine Block."" - the starter doesn't crank.

I then put on a charger to the battery to see if it will give the Jumpstart terminal under hood more power, but i'm only getting 5v. The 3 wires below the terminal have different reading - the two next to each other are reading 5v, the other small one reads 12v like the battery reading. I'm guessing the terminal gets power from the other two. I have attached the images.

What else can i please check?

I have resolved my issue, i wasn't look hard enough