[tranquility]

This was ages ago when some prick decided to stand by my driver's door and make 3 distinct deep keycuts like a coward instead of confronting me for whatever gripe he had. It was deep enough to see metal.

Anyway, I only had the basic paint touchup kit and did a crappy job lol. In hindsight, a preschooler probably could've done better. I don't think I was drunk, but wow, I wouldn't blame anyone for making me do the walk of shame like Cersei lmao.

Ok, my question is w/o any special tools, do you think I can fix this or it can't be done? I still have some paint but I think that the clearcoat is all dried up. TIA.

[TboneS54]

Well, if the paint is a good match, you can sand it down and buff and it could look pretty good. You'll want to take care ofc, and only sand the high spots until you're almost level and are working with like 3k then start to blend in a bit, but not too much lest you flatten all the orange peel.

[ShocknAwe]

Yep, wet sand down and polish. Should look ok after.

[tranquility]

Can you guys pls gimme some protips? I dunno what's going on re this topic obviously lol. What type of sandpaper? What's 3k, wet sand down? Tx.

[ShocknAwe]

I'd start with 1000 grit and see. Then 2 then 3.

Wet the paper and make tight crosshatching strokes until the touchup area is smooth. Don't let the paper dry out.

If 1k doesn't do anything to the blob then try 800 or 600 whatever you have. But when you sand the blob you'll invariably hit your clear next to it so try to be very light with your pressure.

After 2-3k I use compound. Then polish. You'll see a color reflective difference but only in certain light if it's a matched touchup

[tracer bullet]

If it's not obvious, the idea is that you only sand down the touch-up paint and nothing else. There will guaranteed be some sanding next to it, but be careful to have as little of that as possible, or you'll have a high spot of touch-up and down to bare metal all around it. Be sure you can see up close to it - a magnifying glass wouldn't hurt.

And yeah go from course to fine of course. I'd agree after about 3000 use some compound and then polish - same idea going from a course to fine liquid (referring actually to the size of the particles in those liquids). After the polishing, everything should be nice and shiny again, with hopefully the touch up paint being very much knocked down or possibly totally blended in.

[DrVenture]

You might try some Langka first. It really isn't designed for fully cured paint and might require a bit of elbow grease. But, for a beginner, it is much safer.
https://langka.com/product/blob-eliminator-2oz

[NickyC]

Originally Posted by tranquility

I don't think I was drunk, but wow, I wouldn't blame anyone for making me do the walk of shame like Cersei lmao.

Hopefully Sir Gregor gets ahold of that jerk!

[TboneS54]

I think the best advice to OP would be, "don't touch your car." No offense, but you can easily make it worse. Find a mobile detailer or local body shop that does small jobs.

As far as advice for how to do something delicate like wetsand your car paint, I think you'd be best served watching youtube videos, then practice on a shitbox car or painted panel from the junk yard unless you could actually watch a pro in person.

[DrVenture]

^^^ With wet sanding, this is a very real possibility.

[tranquility]

Originally Posted by TboneS54

I think the best advice to OP would be, "don't touch your car." No offense, but you can easily make it worse. Find a mobile detailer or local body shop that does small jobs.

As far as advice for how to do something delicate like wetsand your car paint, I think you'd be best served watching youtube videos, then practice on a shitbox car or painted panel from the junk yard unless you could actually watch a pro in person.

Tx to everyone who contributed itt.

Haha, you wouldn't be wrong given my horrible first impression in the OP. I think I can't do much worse than that and I kinda get what ppl are suggesting w the light sanding.

Would it make sense to put some protective tape (duct tape?) around the raised DIY paint so when I sand I'm sure to only hit my nasty DIY job?

I dunno if it's cost-effective to get a detailer so will give this a try after watching some YT videos. It doesn't really bother me as I left it there for ages, but since I have some free time, I want to right my wrong.

[Burrcold]

Originally Posted by tranquility

Tx to everyone who contributed itt.

Haha, you wouldn't be wrong given my horrible first impression in the OP. I think I can't do much worse than that and I kinda get what ppl are suggesting w the light sanding.

Would it make sense to put some protective tape (duct tape?) around the raised DIY paint so when I sand I'm sure to only hit my nasty DIY job?

I dunno if it's cost-effective to get a detailer so will give this a try after watching some YT videos. It doesn't really bother me as I left it there for ages, but since I have some free time, I want to right my wrong.

Duct tape?? Nooo. Spend a little cash and bring it to a shop. You are going to make this a lot worse.

[shobotan]

I've used the drop filling/ touch up brush technique to fill a scratch or chip, then use a razor blade to take down the high spots. Once it's flat, wet sanding with 1500 to 2000 grit paper, then polish it up with some Meguire's Ultimate. The blade gets the surface flat pretty quick.

[slilley]

After reading this thread, and the OP's follow-up questions, I have to agree with the suggestion to take it to a detailer or a shop. As bad as it is now, you can make it worse - a LOT worse. You don't want to find yourself in a position where you now have to repaint the entire door because of a learning curve you weren't prepared for.

[Hadden14]

I was taught early in my days of wrenching there are a few things casual "mechanics" should not touch, paint being one of them. Good automotive paint guys are artists, and the quality of their work reflects that. If you are already bothered with the touchup, find a professional to avoid making it worse. There is nothing wrong with knowing your limitations!

[bosstones]

Yeah, that looks like wet sanding not compound. There's a risk assessment there, OP, but...yes, you can make it worse.

Depending how determined you are to fix it, go the practice route someone mentioned or take it to a pro.

[tranquility]

Ok, painter's tape instead? I don't mind taking this in gingerly steps if you guys wanna help a dude out. 🙏🏻

If anything, I'm confident that I could at least level the bad DIY paint to the rest of the door.

[tranquility]

Originally Posted by Burrcold

Duct tape?? Nooo. Spend a little cash and bring it to a shop. You are going to make this a lot worse.

How much do you reckon it will cost? The whole area is around the size of a quarter.

[Burrcold]

Originally Posted by tranquility

How much do you reckon it will cost? The whole area is around the size of a quarter.

I would assume an hour of a shops time ($100-150?). It's not going to be perfect, but at least it will be flatter and they may even be able to touch it up a bit better before leveling/sanding and polishing.

[Littlecoupe]

Originally Posted by DrVenture

You might try some Langka first. It really isn't designed for fully cured paint and might require a bit of elbow grease. But, for a beginner, it is much safer.
https://langka.com/product/blob-eliminator-2oz

I have used this product and I agree it's a good and fairly safe way to try to level down the touch up paint without needing to sand.

I have used the Blob Eliminator for many of my larger touch ups. I will fill the chip with multiple applications until a slight bulge/bubble. Then I use the Blob Eliminator to try to level the touch up paint to the rest of the paint. Sometimes I will put a clear coat on the touch up, sometimes no. I usually finish up with a light polish after, I have found tiny micro scratches after using Blob Eliminator (or it's paint remnants), but it comes out with a polish and next to no effort.

I will note that I find the Blob Eliminator does change the paint color and metallic flake look on the chip a bit afterward. Sometimes it has produced a better result, sometimes it has made the color a bit off. Your mileage may vary.

If not using Blob Eliminator, I also advocate what others say - wet sand, then compound and polish. Low grit in the beginning to level the chip (1000), then 2000, 3000, compound (if needed) and polish. Each subsequent step with finer and finer grit removes each prior pass' scratches. It's scary at first when you see white paint around the chip, but it gets better with each pass.

[BIGW0RM]

Guys, I can not reccomend Dr. Colorchip paint touch up enough. Its more like a gel based paint that fills and self levels. I have used it on every car Ive owned that was chipped or scratched. 98% perfection vs what touch up pens offer. Touch up paint pens (even BMW ones) never do a good job. They usually make it worse IMO.

If you have a chip or small scratch, trust me! Get Dr. Color chip. Its like 75 bucks on amazon. You simply put on some and wedgie it smooth, let it dry and your DONE. 98% of the time, youd never know you used it. There paint matching is SPOT on too.

https://drcolorchip.com/

In the OP's situation, I might have tried picking all that paint pen paint off with a needle and redo it with dr color chip. The self leveling dr color chip offers really makes a big difference IMO.

[Game]

No offense man, but just take it to a professional.