[GenXG87]

I was pretty excited to install this today.

But it wasn’t meant to be. After waiting for Vorshlag to get a part for the order I got them this week. They look great.

Took apart my driver side and comparing to the millway they look much better. The camber adjustment is separate from the mounting bolts which will alleviate the issues some of us have had with millways.

Well they sent me the wrong shock nut and bushing. I ordered the one for the Ohlins but this one looks to be for the stock shocks.

Of course only having time on the weekend doesn’t help since they are closed.

I got an alignment scheduled Thursday and a track day on the 8th. Let’s see how this plays out.

Days like this I wish I had a lift in the garage.

I’ve had this suspension apart so many times. lol. I could do a full swap in probably an hour or two. Haha.

[ZPD]

Dang that stinks. The good news is that they are very responsive. Call them
Monday morning and I am sure they will ship on
Monday. They have done same-day shipping (when I called) a few times.

[kevinG87]

Why do I also have the feeling i will receive the wrong parts as well since I spoke to Neil this morning and he was confused that I needed the 2.5 inch perches for the ohlins.

Btw GenXG87, what is your plan for the millway street camber plate? You have both street and uniball version right?

[GenXG87]

Update. A bit long but may be helpful for those looking to DIY their setup.

Last week spoke to Jason @ Vorshlag and they sent me out an M12 strut nut. The next day mocked it up and noticed a pretty big difference in stack height. I was concerned that the lower bushing was incorrect.

I called back and Jason and I chatted for about 10-15min about the setup. TBH, I think these are details that should be documented somewhere and provided with the camber plates since they sell a version that is for Ohlins R&T with stock perches.

Anyhow, he said it is all correct and basically toss out the Ohlins setup instructions. Well that is definitely true. I have the height adjust all the way low now and the preload up quite a bit. Rough estimate is a solid 1" longer stack now.

However I am happy to say that after much tweaking I ran the car on the track yesterday and was very happy with the results. It was a new track for me, had the updated suspension, just added Pagid RSL29 brakes so basically I was on sensory overload for a while.

One odd thing that took me a bit to figure out was the initial preload on the fronts. Initially I set it with only one side lifted at a time since I was in my garage. I got it aligned and the car felt pretty good.

But then I had the car on a lift and both sides extended there was bit of slop so I wanted to preload them a bit. Plus the overall height was a bit low in the front, so I figured this could address both issues at once. Also the left was slightly different that the right. I ended up 3 turns up on the right and 3.5 on the left. After doing that the height looked good, but the car drove worse. It started pulling right and when I turned the wheel lock to lock I would hear pop, which I initially attributed to the springs making noise as they rotated.

So I drove to the track that way and figured I'd tinker there. A quick measurement now had my front slightly higher than the rears. I also figured that because the car was lowered over an inch this small change may have changed the steering angle causing the pull to the right. So I took the 1/2 turn out of the left and it was better but the suspension was still clicking when turning the wheel and the front was still high.

After a session I then took 2 full turns out which was basically a net of one turn up on both sides. BINGO! The noise went away and the car felt quite different.

The drove much better and felt stable even under hard braking. I got a 2nd opinion and had an experienced BMW coach drive it for a session and we was very happy with how the car felt. He said turn in was precise and very responsive, stable and pretty well balanced.

The car has a nice stance now. I may make tiny tweaks if I decide to corner weight the car. That is more of curiosity for me for now. I'm in decision mode about lightening up the car a bit, some buckets, bar and harnesses. Since I also have an OG M2 we are tracking the focus may be on that one for the time being.

Overall it is lowered about 1.5" all around from stock suspension stock tires vs my Ohlins R&T with 295/30-19 front 315/30-19 rear.

I ran the car at 5 clicks all around. That will probably be my next round of testing to really get a feel of how that impacts the car.

[GenXG87]

Originally Posted by kevinG87

Why do I also have the feeling i will receive the wrong parts as well since I spoke to Neil this morning and he was confused that I needed the 2.5 inch perches for the ohlins.

Btw GenXG87, what is your plan for the millway street camber plate? You have both street and uniball version right?

The screenshot of the order you placed looks good for the Ohlins with the springs included. The 2.5" perches only if you got different springs.

Just check the nut that it is M12 and not M14.

No idea what I'm going to do with the Millways yet. I haven't contacted Millway yet. I can put the Uniball back together and may sell them since those haven't been used. But the street ones will need new nuts.

[GenXG87]

A couple more thoughts on Vorshlag.

NVH increase is marginal compared to the Millway streets. There are some instance on sharp bumps/cracks in ground it will make more noise. I can feel a bit more vibration in the steering wheel, but IMO that is a good thing. These cars are pretty numb.

Oddly the steering is lighter now. I am looking at coding the CSL steering into the car, but I'm still trying to figure out how to DIY that with ProTool.

Design of the Vorshlag is far better than the Millways. The Millway camber adjustment is novel and I think good for mild street setups, but the Vorshlag perch is independent from the mount and floats. It also gets rid of the factory plastic bearing. This is very useful with more negative camber as it maintains perpendicularity to the strut and probably contributes to the lighter steering.


My max camber with Vorshlag is -3.8 degrees. I have the car currently set at -3.5 degrees.

[tylerdurdem]

You running stock arms? Wondering if some SPL parts are more or less required to correct the geometry at lower ride heights.

[GenXG87]

Originally Posted by tylerdurdem

You running stock arms? Wondering if some SPL parts are more or less required to correct the geometry at lower ride heights.

I am considering the bumpsteer tie rod ends. I have no doubt that I have increased bumpsteer with the car this low.

I also need sway bar end links as the stock ones are way too long now.

I'm always conflicted on doing it all at once vs incremental builds. All at once may reduce the amount of work to do but so many variables are introduced. Also the car still sees street use, so doing a part or two at a time helps me decide if that mod was really worth it for a dual use car.

It's a journey.

[tylerdurdem]

Understandable.

[kevinG87]

Sounded like the spring preload should not be 1mm according to the instructions by Ohlins. If you set the front preload up to a certain amount, does the rear also need be set up with the same amount?

[GenXG87]

Originally Posted by kevinG87

Sounded like the spring preload should not be 1mm according to the instructions by Ohlins. If you set the front preload up to a certain amount, does the rear also need be set up with the same amount?

The preload is to prevent loose springs at droop.

Right now I have the fronts slightly loose when both sides extended. But there is preload with only one side extended because the sway bar prevents travel.

The rears with both sides extended have whe collars turned enough to stop the slop but no additional preload. I would use Ohlins instructions for the rear. Rear adjustments suck. Front is pretty easy after it is all together.

It seems to work pretty well now for me. With my track tires from ground to fender it is 26 7/8” all around. My tires are a tad shorter than stock.

[kevinG87]

Thanks to GenXg87, Vorshlag noted and send me the correct nut for the ohlins shock. One thing I don’t understand why it sit so high and I have to adjust the spring up and reduce the shock length. This will required me to get a set of adj sway link.

I think if they were to provided the shorter spacer, it will be much better.

[GenXG87]

Originally Posted by kevinG87

Thanks to GenXg87, Vorshlag noted and send me the correct nut for the ohlins shock. One thing I don’t understand why it sit so high and I have to adjust the spring up and reduce the shock length. This will required me to get a set of adj sway link.

I think if they were to provided the shorter spacer, it will be much better.

Yep I find the lower bushing length unnecessary but it works.

It looks like you are basically setup the same way as I set mine up. Overall will lower the front about 40-50mm.

To get the car lower would require that bushing to be shorter to reduce stack height.

[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by GenXG87

Yep I find the lower bushing length unnecessary but it works.

It looks like you are basically setup the same way as I set mine up. Overall will lower the front about 40-50mm.

To get the car lower would require that bushing to be shorter to reduce stack height.

40-50mm is already a good amount of drop. Does this amount of drop required you to run adj endlink? I am planning on a set of SPL or MRR.

[GenXG87]

Originally Posted by kevinG87

40-50mm is already a good amount of drop. Does this amount of drop required you to run adj endlink? I am planning on a set of SPL or MRR.

I’m looking at SPL but I need to measure since a custom length may be needed. The mounting points was already different than stock not it seems worse.

Also planning on getting the SPL bump steer tie rod ends. Definitely an issue when lowered that much.

[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by GenXG87

I’m looking at SPL but I need to measure since a custom length may be needed. The mounting points was already different than stock not it seems worse.

Also planning on getting the SPL bump steer tie rod ends. Definitely an issue when lowered that much.

I assume you are running with stock link right now? Any problems so far?

[GenXG87]

[QUOTE=kevinG87;31066154]I assume you are running with stock link right now? Any problems so far?

Yep stock links. Tracked it on Monday. No real issues. I think it’s more an issue of removing any preload from the sway bar. Probably more of a fine tuning issue rather than functional.

The bump steer kit is probably a bigger issue if you lower it too much vs away bar endlinks.

[kevinG87]

Keep looking at this camber plate, not sure how the guy at the shop can do the adjustment.

[kevinG87]

[QUOTE=GenXG87;31066300]

Originally Posted by kevinG87

I assume you are running with stock link right now? Any problems so far?

Yep stock links. Tracked it on Monday. No real issues. I think it’s more an issue of removing any preload from the sway bar. Probably more of a fine tuning issue rather than functional.

The bump steer kit is probably a bigger issue if you lower it too much vs away bar endlinks.

This is the amount of drop based on ohlins instructions.

[GenXG87]

Originally Posted by kevinG87

Keep looking at this camber plate, not sure how the guy at the shop can do the adjustment.

They need to use a ball end hex key. They should have them.

[GenXG87]

Originally Posted by kevinG87

This is the amount of drop based on ohlins instructions.

Nice!

How many inches from floor to fender?

It will settle and lower.

[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by GenXG87

Nice!

How many inches from floor to fender?

It will settle and lower.

Hi Genxg87, sorry for the late reply, I have been busy with everything around me. After several days of driving I can see that the car has settle a bit more. 63m front and 64m rear measures it from the bottom edge of the rim to the fender edge. 1st click voided then 10 clicks out all around. The car feel a liltle bit bumpy but not too bad. It has good compression over bumps but not too good for rebound which causes the up and down bouncy feeling. 1 good thing after any DIY for sure was no funny noises.
What are your settings?