[Ryan727]

Hey guys, first time poster here. Had an E30 many years ago, recently a Range Rover with an M62 that got flooded during hurricanes in FL, so now I'm stuck with the family 328i that has not been moved in some time. So I'm familiar enough with euro engines to know what I'm doing without screwing things up.

In any case, I'm going down the list of issues with the car, and just about got everything in tip-top shape except for the brakes. Having all the brake lights illuminated on dash (yellow, not red). Brakes themselves are good, rotors are good, but need a resurface job/replacement. Replaced all 4 wheel speed sensors already, brake wear sensors appear to be okay.

So I'm trying to flush out the old fluid, it's been in there for a long time. I've got the pressure tank bleed kit, and I'm following along the video from this post here:https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1012920

Both rear brakes are not pushing juice out. Starting with rear-passenger, I got about a shot worth of fluid, then just a dribble here and there. Been open 10 minutes, with pressure between 15-20 PSI. Moved to rear-driver, and that one is not yielding any fluid.

Can someone point me as to where to start diagnosing this issue?

[oVeRdOsE.]

if its blocked, maybe try the old way with the car on with someone pressing the brake pedal. Pressure will be greater.

you really might have rust blockage near the caliper bleeding pin. you shouldn't have blockage in the like, they are stainless or rubber.

[Ryan727]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

if its blocked, maybe try the old way with the car on with someone pressing the brake pedal. Pressure will be greater.

you really might have rust blockage near the caliper bleeding pin. you shouldn't have blockage in the like, they are stainless or rubber.

Will try the traditional way now and report back. Appreciate the quick reply.

[Efthreeoh]

I'd drive the car first and get the brakes heated up. Heat is always good to break up clogs. I'd try new bleeder screws right off the bat if the car has been sitting that long unused and no fluid is passing through the bleeders.

[ctuna]

There is a procedure that cycles the anti lock break module to get the fluid out of that , but you need diagnostics to run it .

You need BMW Standard Tools or Ista D to run it.

If things are working normally you will flush the system but not the anti lock brake module with just a pressure flush.

[Ryan727]

Okay, so I fired it up and went the old way and just hit brakes, open bleeder, closer bleed, release brakes. Rear brakes still not much coming out. Fronts were much better.

Ctuna, I know there is the real way to do it with the computer, was just trying to flush some old fluid out for now.

So I ended up running to a local BMW specialty mechanic and had him throw his di9agnostics on there (don't have anything to read ABS at the moment). He's showing it's the ABS pump. He also indicated the only way to replace said pump is to replace pump and module, flash it, then code it to the VIN. Is there any validity to this?

[Ryan727]

Originally Posted by Ryan727

Okay, so I fired it up and went the old way and just hit brakes, open bleeder, closer bleed, release brakes. Rear brakes still not much coming out. Fronts were much better.

Ctuna, I know there is the real way to do it with the computer, was just trying to flush some old fluid out for now.

So I ended up running to a local BMW specialty mechanic and had him throw his di9agnostics on there (don't have anything to read ABS at the moment). He's showing it's the ABS pump. He also indicated the only way to replace said pump is to replace pump and module, flash it, then code it to the VIN. Is there any validity to this?

I managed to snap a pic of some DSC codes. I believe the first 3 are of my own doing due to this bleed not working as planned:

005DBD
005D9D
005DA7
(These three are all indicative of a leak/air in lines)

Then there's these:
005DF0 (Pump Motor)
005DF1 (Pump Motor Connector)

[Ryan727]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I'd drive the car first and get the brakes heated up. Heat is always good to break up clogs. I'd try new bleeder screws right off the bat if the car has been sitting that long unused and no fluid is passing through the bleeders.

I got to the point of removing the entire bleeder screw with not much luck on rears - just to rule out a screw that would have drove me crazy.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Ryan727

I got to the point of removing the entire bleeder screw with not much luck on rears - just to rule out a screw that would have drove me crazy.

Have you scanned the car with a BMW scan tool to check the ABS module for codes?