[Billfitz]

Good enough, I didn't know Parts Express/Dayton was sold outside of the US.

[Ramos]

Originally Posted by badninja99

johnung

I have the HK stock speaker and amp. I've read a few posts that recommended Earthquake Subwoofers spacers and an amp.

I'm still a bit confused on the complete setup.

I'm not looking for a major modifications, Just something plug and play that will improve my experience.

Is this what you would recommend for me as well?

Harman Kardon Audio System:
AudioControl ACM-2.300 LOC/Amplifier
Technicpnp website- wiring harness
Earthquake Subwoofers and Spacer Rings

Anyone in So Cal that can recommend an installer that can install the above ACMControl / Technicpnp / earthquakes for me?

Is this still the best affordable upgrade option for a G20 HK system?

Does the secondary amp replace anything oem? Or does it add on to the oem RAM and booster?

Thank you

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Ramos

Anyone in So Cal that can recommend an installer that can install the above ACMControl / Technicpnp / earthquakes for me?

Is this still the best affordable upgrade option for a G20 HK system?

Does the secondary amp replace anything oem? Or does it add on to the oem RAM and booster?

Thank you

In this F3x configuration, the HK system is not touched. The AudioControl LOC/Amplifier is simply added as a secondary amplifier to drive the new Earthquake subwoofers. They require more power than the HK amplifier provides to the underseat subwoofer locations.

In the F3x with a Harman Kardon audio system, the Technicpnp harness splits out the signal meant for the underseat subwoofers. (Note that the HK amplifier has no amp to amp interface so a LOC must be used.) It connects to the AudioControl ACM-2.300 which first acts like a LOC, taking in the high speaker level signal and converting it internally for the amplifier part of the ACM-2.300 to drive the two new underseat Earthquake SWS-8Xi (2-ohm) subwoofers with 150watts/channel into 2-ohms. Earthquake R8SWS spacer rings are required to install the Earthquakes into the car’s plastic underseat subwoofer cabinets. The Technicpnp harness allows the use of the car’s existing speaker wires to the underseat sub locations or the run new wire. I ran thicker 14 gauge speaker wire to handle the higher power. Guessing BMW stock speaker wire was probably 18 gauge. I don’t recall.

I have never worked on a G-Series car so I do not know how the Harman Kardon sound system has been implemented. I looked up the G-Series on the Technicpnp website and the harness is much different. So I doubt that this same AudioControl/Earthquake configuration would be a solution for the G-Series. I couldn’t even tell you if they use underseat HK subwoofers in the G20 or if they are a weakpoint or if Earthquakes fit in the G20.

Link to Technicpnp G-Series harness information below.

https://technicpnp.com/product-categ...-3-series-g20/

A word of caution about installers. Most of them are not going to understand the unique way that BMW implements their audio systems. So they are going to recommend what they know, and what they can sell you to make a profit, which may not be the best or least expensive based on your needs. You are much better off trying to research it yourself carefully than to just believe an installer.

Hope this helps!

[Ramos]

Oh shit! I thought this entire setup was meant for a G20.

The HK on the G20 is much weaker than the F30 version and definitely needs an upgrade.

[Zinder]

I haven't personally installed those specific speakers in my F30, but from the specs listed on the eBay page, it looks like they could potentially provide a noticeable upgrade in sound quality. However, without actually hearing them in your car, it's hard to say for sure if they will meet your expectations. Instead, I decide to follow the information about best sound deadening materials for my car.

[Billfitz]

When you have complete specs you can know exactly what different speakers will do, without hearing them. You just have to know how to make use of the specs, if you can find them.

[mimoon]

I have a g31 hifi 676, and I have an amp 7up with OEM speakers. Is it worth installing a crossover for tweeters/midrange speakers. Does the ones from the diagram Billfitz's also be good for a hifi system?
And do you know any alternative to Earthquake?, because they are not available in Finland.

8.2uf capacitors are not easy to find. Can I use like these?

[mimoon]

Well, maybe I'll buy a set of Audison.They have a crossover included. Thanks

[Billfitz]

Audison are nothing special. Buying speakers to obtain a crossover is silly. Besides, they don't provide a crossover. It's a cheap high pass filter, no better than the OEM. You don't have to use an 8.2uF capacitor, crossover components may be sized +/- 10%. I have the Hi-Fi system. You may not be able to buy Earthquake in Finland but I suspect DHL or the like delivers to Finland.

[johnung]

Earthquake Sound products are distributed in Europe. Below is the link

https://www.earthquakesound.dk/en/

[dariusz88]

Originally Posted by johnung

In this F3x configuration, the HK system is not touched. The AudioControl LOC/Amplifier is simply added as a secondary amplifier to drive the new Earthquake subwoofers. They require more power than the HK amplifier provides to the underseat subwoofer locations.

In the F3x with a Harman Kardon audio system, the Technicpnp harness splits out the signal meant for the underseat subwoofers. (Note that the HK amplifier has no amp to amp interface so a LOC must be used.) It connects to the AudioControl ACM-2.300 which first acts like a LOC, taking in the high speaker level signal and converting it internally for the amplifier part of the ACM-2.300 to drive the two new underseat Earthquake SWS-8Xi (2-ohm) subwoofers with 150watts/channel into 2-ohms. Earthquake R8SWS spacer rings are required to install the Earthquakes into the car’s plastic underseat subwoofer cabinets. The Technicpnp harness allows the use of the car’s existing speaker wires to the underseat sub locations or the run new wire. I ran thicker 14 gauge speaker wire to handle the higher power. Guessing BMW stock speaker wire was probably 18 gauge. I don’t recall.

I have never worked on a G-Series car so I do not know how the Harman Kardon sound system has been implemented. I looked up the G-Series on the Technicpnp website and the harness is much different. So I doubt that this same AudioControl/Earthquake configuration would be a solution for the G-Series. I couldn’t even tell you if they use underseat HK subwoofers in the G20 or if they are a weakpoint or if Earthquakes fit in the G20.

Link to Technicpnp G-Series harness information below.

https://technicpnp.com/product-categ...-3-series-g20/

A word of caution about installers. Most of them are not going to understand the unique way that BMW implements their audio systems. So they are going to recommend what they know, and what they can sell you to make a profit, which may not be the best or least expensive based on your needs. You are much better off trying to research it yourself carefully than to just believe an installer.

Hope this helps!

thx

[mimoon]

Originally Posted by johnung

Earthquake Sound products are distributed in Europe. Below is the link

https://www.earthquakesound.dk/en/

380€ a pair including shipping. It's cheaper than the US though. Of course, I mean the amount with shipping. Thanks!

But now i'm looking at amazon and 276+$22. I think it was more expensive. Not bad!

[mimoon]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Audison are nothing special. Buying speakers to obtain a crossover is silly. Besides, they don't provide a crossover. It's a cheap high pass filter, no better than the OEM. You don't have to use an 8.2uF capacitor, crossover components may be sized +/- 10%. I have the Hi-Fi system. You may not be able to buy Earthquake in Finland but I suspect DHL or the like delivers to Finland.

Of course! You are certainly right. Unfortunately, I am wrong. Should I stick to Dayton Audio quality or for example Jentzen or can I use cheaper substitutes?

So instead of 8.2uf I can use say 7.4-9uf?

[johnung]

Originally Posted by mimoon

380€ a pair including shipping. It's cheaper than the US though. Of course, I mean the amount with shipping. Thanks!

Well worth it! Earthquakes are less expensive that the underseat subs from so called “BMW” audio brands that actually have inferior specs. I’ve had my Earthquakes installed for several years. They make the audio system sound like it should have from the factory.

Note: Make sure to order the Earthquake R8SWS spacers (~$25/pair) for a clean plug and play installation.

[mimoon]

Yes, I read about spacers, thanks.

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by mimoon

Should I stick to Dayton Audio quality or for example Jentzen or can I use cheaper substitutes?

So instead of 8.2uf I can use say 7.4-9uf?

Any poly cap made for crossover use will do. What you don't want is NPE, non-polarized electrolytic. 7.4 to 9uF is fine.

[mimoon]

Now I understand.
You convinced me, I'll do it. I hope to be able to show off the results. Thank's a lot

Edit: just one more question. Capacitors have one more parameter, 100V, 250V or 400V. Should I be looking for only 250V or are the others suitable ?

[Billfitz]

100v will do. Driving a 4 ohm load that's 2500 watts.

[meyer1son]

Bill thanks for sharing your crossovers. I used them for a few weeks. They made a very noticeable improvement over oem. Very nice low cost improvement. I am in the process of adding a match up 8dsp. And going fully active in the doors. What crossover specs would you recommend for all the oem speakers?

[Billfitz]

If you're going active you want to pull the passive crossovers. The nominal crossover frequency is 4kHz, but with the higher slope available with active you can try going lower, say 3.5kHz, for wider dispersion than the midranges give. Once you decide on the crossover frequency add a series capacitor to the tweeter, sized as a 1st order highpass at half the crossover frequency. This protects against turn on transients that can toast a tweeter. This will calculate the required value: https://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Cal...akerCrossover/

[meyer1son]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

If you're going active you want to pull the passive crossovers. The nominal crossover frequency is 4kHz, but with the higher slope available with active you can try going lower, say 3.5kHz, for wider dispersion than the midranges give. Once you decide on the crossover frequency add a series capacitor to the tweeter, sized as a 1st order highpass at half the crossover frequency. This protects against turn on transients that can toast a tweeter. This will calculate the required value: https://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Cal...akerCrossover/

Thanks again for you time. What hpf would you recommend for the oem midrange? Also looking at the specs below. Do you think this is a better speaker than oem? And if so worth the investment in your opinion?

[Billfitz]

You'd cross over from the underseat woofers to the midranges in the vicinity of 125Hz. That driver is spec'd for a ported enclosure, it's not suitable for a car door.