[aerobod]

The strut brace torques should be the same as for the G80/82, if the car is being returned to factory specs before taking to the dealer. The front centre bolt is a stretch bolt that isn’t reusable: https://g80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...8&postcount=18

[DCC]

Originally Posted by VehicleVirals

Well I'm working on a follow up. Filmed most of it yesterday and will film the rest when I visit the dealership on Monday. They want to see the rotors now.

waiting to see what aftermarket pads you switched to...

[boxdotjpeg]

Any updates on this? Curious as I know of someone locally that had a new M2 in the shop for the same reason.

[KCuv]

mine as been squealing since day 1. Is this anything to be concerned with or is there some sort of brake-in. no other vehicle i've had has done this.

[fcman]

Originally Posted by KCuv

mine as been squealing since day 1. Is this anything to be concerned with or is there some sort of brake-in. no other vehicle i've had has done this.

Try bedding them in. Generally hard stops from 60mph are a good way to do that. BMW has a youtube video on it but they dont get very specific

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by fcman

Try bedding them in. Generally hard stops from 60mph are a good way to do that. BMW has a youtube video on it but they dont get very specific

No! Do not stop the car during a braking event while bedding in the brakes.

Over the years my brake bedding in procedure -- for new car new brakes and for just new brakes -- has been seek out a suitable road and accelerate up to speed. Legal highway speed is sufficient.

Apply the brakes hard but not hard enough to trigger ABS. Slow the car from speed to ~45mph.

Release the brakes and quickly accelerate up to speed again and then perform another braking event.

Accelerate up to speed one more time and brake one more time.

I have found that the brakes bite better after the 1st event and to a lesser extent after the 2nd event and to an even lesser extent after the 3rd event. I have tried a 4th and 5th event but noticed no change in braking.

After the last braking event be sure you drive the car enough to allow the brakes to cool.

I have to stress do not bring the car to a halt from hard braking during the bedding in process. This can result in uneven pad material deposition and if this occurs the brakes can manifest a pulsing feel that almost certainly will require rotor surfacing or even new rotors to eliminate.

Another caution is to be sure the brakes are dried after a car wash. If you put the car away with wet brakes the rotors will rust. Normal brake use will remove the rust but there is a risk if you have to use the brakes hard and bring the car to a stop -- in say an emergency stop -- uneven pad material (or rust dust) deposition will happen. This happened to one of my cars.

To dry the brakes after a car wash I do a less aggressive brake bedding in operation. Lower speed but 2 or 3 braking events to get the brakes hot. And not only the disc brakes want to get hot to dry the hardware but the parking brake hardware wants to get hot too. One can't (or shouldn't) apply the parking brake while the car is moving so the only way the parking brake hardware can get hot in order to dry the hardware is from heat generated from using the regular brakes.

[new2M2]

Bump! Any further feedback from the community? I haven't been able to fully bed the brakes as of yet, but been trying to as they squeal like a stuck pig up front. Just wondering if there's some recent news from anyone else.

[KC87ZB]

I am also curious as to resolution from the OP on his issue.

[VehicleVirals]

Uploading a video onto my channel in a hour or so with an update.

[baron95]

There is soma partially correct but incomplete pad bedding information here.

Bedding performance pads takes a concerted effort. You basically need to brake repeatedly, withiut stopping completely, until you induce fade and your pads smell and smoke, then drive for 5-10 min at speed without using the brakes for them to cool down.

For most street/track combo pads, it takes a few light brake applications to warm up the brakes, a light cool down, than 6-10 hard brake applications from 80MPH to 20MPH.

If you didn’t feel fade and didn’t smell the pads, you did not bed them.

StopTech pad bedding info is the best if you want to read more about it.

[clydefrog]

Originally Posted by DCC

waiting to see what aftermarket pads you switched to...

He switched to some used OEM G80 brake pads and it fixed the problem, although he suspects some warping was done to his rotors.

His dealer also documented his mods and YT channel so they voided his warranty related to those parts on the car

[DSTR]

Originally Posted by clydefrog

He switched to some used OEM G80 brake pads and it fixed the problem, although he suspects some warping was done to his rotors.

His dealer also documented his mods and YT channel so they voided his warranty related to those parts on the car

As predicted. Warranty gone. Monetization is complete though lol.

I have almost 5000km's now. Zero issue with brake sound/squeal. Did my normal easy to mid level use break-in. Never an issue on any car Ive owned. Cooling after dedicated/focused use of the brakes helps.

[VehicleVirals]

Here's the link to my latest update video:

https://youtu.be/0fMxQaTZZJk?si=7abMPhV7rrvKAXdi

[mzimand]

I just watch the new video and ran strait out to garage to check my rotors. The look and feel like new, no waves at all.

I have 4000 miles. I would estimate that 3000 miles were done on B-Roads with hard braking. My car is not an HEA car and was delivered in CA and only sat at port for a few weeks. So VV's conclusions might be correct.

My biggest take from the video was the fact that BMW used different brake pads on the M2. I thought they were the same pads used on the M3/M4. Can others that has changed there pads confirm that this is the case?

[baron95]

Originally Posted by VehicleVirals

Here's the link to my latest update video:

https://youtu.be/0fMxQaTZZJk?si=7abMPhV7rrvKAXdi

Hey, I wasn't a fan of the antics on the previous video, but your latest video is fair, balanced and informative - I subscribed.

Thanks for bringing to life the difference in pads from the used G80 - first I heard there was a difference. I wonder if BMW just switched to the new style for all G8x or if there is in fact different part numbers from M2 to M3/4.

Anyway, following the progress of your M2.

[aerobod]

For M2/M3/M4 there is at least one BMW pad that is the same for all models: https://shop.bmw.ca/p/BMW_2023_M2-Co...107884975.html

It is shown as being fitted to all models from June 2022 onwards, but retroactive to all models from 2021.

[baron95]

Originally Posted by aerobod

For M2/M3/M4 there is at least one BMW pad that is the same for all models: https://shop.bmw.ca/p/BMW_2023_M2-Co...107884975.html

It is shown as being fitted to all models from June 2022 onwards, but retroactive to all models from 2021.

Interesting. Do the new pads have the weights or it is the old ones that have them and the new ones don't?

[baron95]

OP, I would not be so quick to jump to the conclusion that your brake pads are the issue based on your latest experience.

For example - It is possible that the brake calipers were improperly installed and were loose or not seated flush against the bracket. The process of removing and re-installing the calipers to change the pads may have fixed the issue.

If I were forced to bet, I'd bet on this.

I believe the calipers need to be removed to install the HAS [EDIT - the OP clarified he did not remove the caliper to install the HAS]. I also know that most shops do NOT replace the caliper hex nuts, that are single-use-only. And I know that at least one M2 owner had the caliper come loose on track after changing pads, because the of caliper not being seated correctly and/or reusing the hex nuts.

Put it all together, and I think that improper caliper installation is more likely to be the cause. Not the pads.

[aerobod]

Originally Posted by baron95

Interesting. Do the new pads have the weights or it is the old ones that have them and the new ones don't?

Going by this photo, the current ones have no weights or slot in the pad:
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Brakes/S...107884975.html

They may also just be different depending on the supplier, so either could be current.

[gcmak]

I'm gunna put this out there that the Red Calipers that are 'optional' on the car, come with different pads and it's not just a caliper paint job that's different.

Here's one (if not the only) G87 with red calipers who swapped out their OEM pads and it clearly shows they are the same as Vehicle , but those of us with the Blue calipers have the pads with weights and chamfer.

I'm assuming the part numbers of the pads are different...that's something we can look into if someone can provide those numbers.

[gcmak]

Originally Posted by aerobod

Going by this photo, the current ones have no weights or slot in the pad:
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Brakes/S...107884975.html

AH, so here it is. You linked to the OPTIONAL pads - which appear to be what comes with the optional red calipers.

These are the 'original' pads which come with the blue calipers.
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Genuine-...82-G83-M4.html

[Tag]

Let this be a lesson to everyone, if you have a dealership/tech that's not helpful take it to a different dealership. Don't know why the OP kept taking it back to the same dealership but that was his biggest mistake, not the mods.