[johnlapay]

Hi everyone.

I hope maybe someone can help here because I don't really know what to do now. I think I tried everything.

The car just stopped one day and didn't want to start. Had the Valvetronic error code and DME was fried. Now DME replaced and cloned from the old one. Valvetronic servo motor replaced. All cables from the battery were tested all seem good but the car still doesn't want to start. Of course, all fuses are checked and are ok.

Any help will be really appreciated.

P.S. very strange thing - when trying to start the car the Fan starts to work 100%.

These are the codes that I see. When cleaning them they come back again:

A6CF - JBE: AUC sensor
2DD6 - Valvetronic servomotor position sensors, Short circuit or line disconnection
28BO - Consequent reaction, Throttle valve, Emergency operation mode active
28AB - Consequent reaction, Throttle valve, throttle potentiometer 1 and 2, Double fault
28A4 - Throttle valve, throttle potentiometer 1, electrical, Short circuit to B+
28AB - Throttle valve, throttle potentiometer 2, electrical, Short circuit to B+
2C6F - Charging pressure sensor, electrical, Short circuit to B+
36E3 - DME, monitoring, 5V sensor supply 2, Voltage outside the valid range
281A - Absolute pressure sensor, intake pipe, electrical, Short circuit to B+
3157 - Tank vent valve, activation, Line disconnection
3427 - Engine oil pressure sensor, electrical, Short circuit to ground
29E0 - Charge air temperature sensor, electrical, Short circuit to B+
29D0 - Intake air temperature sensor, electrical, Short circuit to B+
2937 - Coolant temperature sensor, electrical, Short circuit to B+
2C3F - Quantity control valve, activation, Line disconnection
A0B4 - CAS: Engine start, starter operation
AA1C - Emergency speaker, Open circuit

[Dohc120]

Going through a similar issue and noticed when the DME plugs are crossed the fan will run constantly. Are you plugs in the correct locations?

[johnlapay]

Hi. I think everything there is connected as should.

You experiencing same problems? Let me know if there will be any update with your issue, this might help me as well. Thanks

[Dohc120]

Originally Posted by johnlapay

Hi. I think everything there is connected as should.

You experiencing same problems? Let me know if there will be any update with your issue, this might help me as well. Thanks

All of those faults makes me believe either there is water like in your JB Fuse panel or driver foot well, or something is not plugged in correctly. Can you post a picture of the DME connector plugs as they are now?

[johnlapay]

Originally Posted by Dohc120

All of those faults makes me believe either there is water like in your JB Fuse panel or driver foot well, or something is not plugged in correctly. Can you post a picture of the DME connector plugs as they are now?

Thank you. Will check this one more time. Unfortunately manifold is in so cant take photo now. But I am sure that everything is connected as should there

[Dennyyv]

Hey what's up man,

So the codes you have right now seem like the new clone dme is having a hard time pairing with the car. or the car maybe had a spike in voltage causing it to fry and short out a whole bunch of stuff (unlikely but worst case scenario)

the fan on max is explained by code
Coolant temperature sensor, electrical, Short circuit to B+
the engine doesnt know the coolant temperature its at so it goes on full panic cool down mode.

but the code
A0B4 - CAS: Engine start, starter operation
Is telling you the car attempted to start but the starter failed.
so im guessing its a no crank?

In my experience swapping just the dme and not the cas together from the same source causes problems like this.

it can be that the clone/virginizing of the dme didnt work, so its not letting the car start.

my advice although expensive advice would be maybe getting a dme/cas/key set from a donor car and trying again. (they sell them on ebay)

just my second opinion.

[ptpending]

Originally Posted by johnlapay

Hi everyone.

I hope maybe someone can help here because I don't really know what to do now. I think I tried everything.

The car just stopped one day and didn't want to start. Had the Valvetronic error code and DME was fried. Now DME replaced and cloned from the old one. Valvetronic servo motor replaced. All cables from the battery were tested all seem good but the car still doesn't want to start. Of course, all fuses are checked and are ok.

Any help will be really appreciated.

P.S. very strange thing - when trying to start the car the Fan starts to work 100%.

These are the codes that I see. When cleaning them they come back again:

A6CF - JBE: AUC sensor
2DD6 - Valvetronic servomotor position sensors, Short circuit or line disconnection
28BO - Consequent reaction, Throttle valve, Emergency operation mode active
28AB - Consequent reaction, Throttle valve, throttle potentiometer 1 and 2, Double fault
28A4 - Throttle valve, throttle potentiometer 1, electrical, Short circuit to B+
28AB - Throttle valve, throttle potentiometer 2, electrical, Short circuit to B+
2C6F - Charging pressure sensor, electrical, Short circuit to B+
36E3 - DME, monitoring, 5V sensor supply 2, Voltage outside the valid range
281A - Absolute pressure sensor, intake pipe, electrical, Short circuit to B+
3157 - Tank vent valve, activation, Line disconnection
3427 - Engine oil pressure sensor, electrical, Short circuit to ground
29E0 - Charge air temperature sensor, electrical, Short circuit to B+
29D0 - Intake air temperature sensor, electrical, Short circuit to B+
2937 - Coolant temperature sensor, electrical, Short circuit to B+
2C3F - Quantity control valve, activation, Line disconnection
A0B4 - CAS: Engine start, starter operation
AA1C - Emergency speaker, Open circuit

did you checked ground stripe from engine to car body ?

[johnlapay]

Originally Posted by ptpending

did you checked ground stripe from engine to car body ?

Could you show pic of that we are talking about? Will be helpful. Thanks

[johnlapay]

Originally Posted by Dennyyv

Hey what's up man,

So the codes you have right now seem like the new clone dme is having a hard time pairing with the car. or the car maybe had a spike in voltage causing it to fry and short out a whole bunch of stuff (unlikely but worst case scenario)

the fan on max is explained by code
Coolant temperature sensor, electrical, Short circuit to B+
the engine doesnt know the coolant temperature its at so it goes on full panic cool down mode.

but the code
A0B4 - CAS: Engine start, starter operation
Is telling you the car attempted to start but the starter failed.
so im guessing its a no crank?

In my experience swapping just the dme and not the cas together from the same source causes problems like this.

it can be that the clone/virginizing of the dme didnt work, so its not letting the car start.

my advice although expensive advice would be maybe getting a dme/cas/key set from a donor car and trying again. (they sell them on ebay)

just my second opinion.

Hi. Thank you for your reply.

I probably will end up buying whole used set.

Do you know why I can’t just clone my old to new one (that’s what I did) - why it cannot work?

I want to check one more time all grounds and etc before will search for new ecu.

Thanks

[Dennyyv]

Originally Posted by johnlapay

Hi. Thank you for your reply.

I probably will end up buying whole used set.

Do you know why I can’t just clone my old to new one (that’s what I did) - why it cannot work?

I want to check one more time all grounds and etc before will search for new ecu.

Thanks

No problem, since you did say that the dme was fried. It could be that the cloning didn’t work because there was existing faults or missing data- basically maybe the old dme was to far gone that it couldn’t be cloned to the new dme. There could be a lot of issues with cloning them, that’s just the most relevant one in this situation that’s coming to mind.

But with buying a new dme/cas/key set, you would have to have it in the car and connected, and code it to your specific vehicle order, it’s not too hard with ncs, I haven’t done it it a while but there’s definitely threads about this process.

If you don’t have ista,inpa,ncs , or the rest of the programs, I suggest looking into installing them.

And yes, before doing any of this, double check all the grounds, check all of the fuses in the dme box as well, if not done so yet.
The biggest problems can be caused by the smallest and most stupidest things. But unfortunately, if youre 100% sure that all grounds, connections, and harnesses are in good shape, a faulty dme can definitely cause all these rolling codes of ground issues, b+ issues, line disconnected issues. Because look at it this way, all those sensor connectors all run back to the dme and tell the engines computer how it’s running, or vice versa (dme sending signal for something to do it’s job) and if these things aren’t responding, you can point to a problem in the dme.

[ptpending]

Originally Posted by johnlapay

Could you show pic of that we are talking about? Will be helpful. Thanks

unfortunately, if you find this strap damaged, then you probably burnt you DME once again when trying to start
so after strap replacement you may have clone/replace DME once again

[johnlapay]

Originally Posted by Dennyyv

No problem, since you did say that the dme was fried. It could be that the cloning didn’t work because there was existing faults or missing data- basically maybe the old dme was to far gone that it couldn’t be cloned to the new dme. There could be a lot of issues with cloning them, that’s just the most relevant one in this situation that’s coming to mind.

But with buying a new dme/cas/key set, you would have to have it in the car and connected, and code it to your specific vehicle order, it’s not too hard with ncs, I haven’t done it it a while but there’s definitely threads about this process.

If you don’t have ista,inpa,ncs , or the rest of the programs, I suggest looking into installing them.

And yes, before doing any of this, double check all the grounds, check all of the fuses in the dme box as well, if not done so yet.
The biggest problems can be caused by the smallest and most stupidest things. But unfortunately, if youre 100% sure that all grounds, connections, and harnesses are in good shape, a faulty dme can definitely cause all these rolling codes of ground issues, b+ issues, line disconnected issues. Because look at it this way, all those sensor connectors all run back to the dme and tell the engines computer how it’s running, or vice versa (dme sending signal for something to do it’s job) and if these things aren’t responding, you can point to a problem in the dme.

Hi. Thank you for your reply.

This makes sense. Do you know if an ECU+CAS+KEY from N55 E90 2011 335i Xdrive N55 6HP will work for my car? (THE Bosch part numbers are in the list of compatible for my car) I guess after programming it will understand and change the parameters that are on my car.
Mine is 2011 E92 335i DCT RWD

Thank you

[johnlapay]

Originally Posted by ptpending

unfortunately, if you find this strap damaged, then you probably burnt you DME once again when trying to start
so after strap replacement you may have clone/replace DME once again

Hi. Thanks for reply.

I see there is N54 in the video. My car is N55. Are you sure that strap is still there on my car?

[ptpending]

Originally Posted by johnlapay

Hi. Thanks for reply.

I see there is N54 in the video. My car is N55. Are you sure that strap is still there on my car?

even if it is not there, you can dig other videos or in google "N55 ground strap"
the main thing that you already know how it look like

[johnlapay]

Originally Posted by Dohc120

All of those faults makes me believe either there is water like in your JB Fuse panel or driver foot well, or something is not plugged in correctly. Can you post a picture of the DME connector plugs as they are now?

Hi mate. Finally I am at the car and starting to check everything.
Here is the photo of dme connections :
What you think all connected as should?

[Dohc120]

Originally Posted by johnlapay

Hi mate. Finally I am at the car and starting to check everything.
Here is the photo of dme connections :
What you think all connected as should?

To me they look like they’re in the incorrecti position. The red plug should be closest to the firewall. The white one should be center, and the black one should be closest to front end of car. Make sure you do not connect you battery until you are 1000% sure they’re correct, otherwise you may be replacing everything connected to the DME including the DME.

[johnlapay]

Originally Posted by Dohc120

To me they look like they’re in the incorrecti position. The red plug should be closest to the firewall. The white one should be center, and the black one should be closest to front end of car. Make sure you do not connect you battery until you are 1000% sure they’re correct, otherwise you may be replacing everything connected to the DME including the DME.

Well. It was connected to battery like this and it’s cranking but no start… looking for photos now to see how they are connected on similar cars

[Dohc120]

Originally Posted by johnlapay

Well. It was connected to battery like this and it’s cranking but no start… looking for photos now to see how they are connected on similar cars

Trust me when I tell you the position. I have dealt with this and I have it memorized. The wires coming from the fuel pressure sensor/rail sensor, located on top of the intake, go to the black plug and I can see that you have them on center position when it should be plugged in last, in the position closest to the front end of the car. The connector that looks like it’s set in the middle or the wires is the white plug and it should be in the middle position between the red and black connectors. All three are identical, but you can only swap the black and white plugs and you have them swapped for sure.

[johnlapay]

Originally Posted by Dohc120

Trust me when I tell you the position. I have dealt with this and I have it memorized. The wires coming from the fuel pressure sensor/rail sensor, located on top of the intake, go to the black plug and I can see that you have them on center position when it should be plugged in last, in the position closest to the front end of the car. The connector that looks like it’s set in the middle or the wires is the white plug and it should be in the middle position between the red and black connectors. All three are identical, but you can only swap the black and white plugs and you have them swapped for sure.

I see. I really hope that this didn’t kill the other components.
Please see attached photo , I put numbers there. Could you tell me which number needs to be relocated and where. Thank you!
Maybe it will start! I really hope

[Dohc120]

Originally Posted by johnlapay

Well. It was connected to battery like this and it’s cranking but no start… looking for photos now to see how they are connected on similar cars

I’ve attached a picture. The red plug is circled in red.

[Dohc120]

Originally Posted by johnlapay

I see. I really hope that this didn’t kill the other components.
Please see attached photo , I put numbers there. Could you tell me which number needs to be relocated and where. Thank you!
Maybe it will start! I really hope

Swap 1 and 2

[johnlapay]

Originally Posted by Dohc120

Swap 1 and 2

Thank you. To be honest it’s a really stupid that they didn’t make different keys for connections so this situation never happen! Everyone are people and can make mistakes.