[Clubfed11]

Hi All,
I recently purchased a 2013 335is auto DCT that had been in a front driver side impact. 120k miles on it. I got some quotes from a few shops to get the frame rail fixed but it might be out of the budget for now. I've wanted a project car for a bit and have always worked on motorcycles and cars in my free time. I also own a 2022 Toyota Tacoma double cab long bed off road. I don't plan on selling this car as it's something I've wanted for awhile now so might cut out the bad section and weld in a replacement from BMW. Plan is to remove the engine and transmission and go through everything since I have it out. The car is running and driving but there was a hole in the radiator. Once the frame rail is fixed and engine back in I'll focus on getting it registered/inspected. Last phase would be to refresh the interior. It's a beige color so showing some wear and tear but I think I can clean it up a bit.

Bolt Ons that came with the car:
Burger intake cones
cowl delete with burger filters
burger 7.5 intercooler
Tial BOV
VRSF catless downpipes
Remus exhaust
chargepipe
VRSF oil catch can

Pulled a car fax and got:
38k water pump replaced
44k fuel pump replaced
48k ignition coils replaced
48k spark plugs replaced
I'm thinking with the parts that were on the car some of these would be replaced by the PO and not show up on the carfax, but i'll be doing the known problematic ones just to be safe. Also all fluids, oil, coolant, trans fluid, diff fluid and brake fluid.

What I've done/purchased so far:
Engine removed and on the stand
Valve cover gasket done
oil pan gasket and bolts replaced
cleaned the vanos solenoids with the ultrasonic cleaner (just used oil) and new o rings, same with the check valves.
cleaned up and replaced the o rings on the camshaft sensors
new gaskets and oil filter for the OFHG (lots of oil on front of engine along with oil pan and trans pan)
new oil cap gasket
new radiator
upgrade pcv valve
new belt tensioner, belt and idler pulleys. also got an aluminum power steering pulley and front crank seal cover
new o ring for the oil pickup tube
new Pierburg all aluminum water pump and Mahle thermostat
new NGK-97968 spark plugs (I removed NGK 97506 which I think are two steps colder? There was gas under the spark plugs...would that mean running too rich?)
New intake and exhaust gaskets
new transmission oil cooler gaskets
new turbo oil and water gaskets (basically any gasket or o ring i'm trying to replace)
New drivers wheel air bag, passenger curtain airbag, drivers seat belt clip and shoulder belt. I still need to get the pyro fuse connector for the battery.
Going to walnut blast of course, I got everything needed for it.
Also replacing all the vacuum lines with Verocious platinum cured silicone lines
I also purchased Stage 2 turbos from Vargas along with silicone inlets and aluminum outlets.
Looking to DIY a LPFP. I'll be dropping in a Walbro 450 and doing full -6 AN fuel line. I drilled out the fuel rail and removed the HPFP fuel filter. Going to put a 6 or 10 micron in line filter as well.
I have the EKPM3 and 3D printed a new case for it to include a 60mm fan. Also going to slap some heat sinks on there just to be safe.

I'm sure I'm missing a few things.

Question:
Is there a way to tell what tune might be one the car?

Going to need to source a bumper as it didn't come with one, along with a bunch of other random items. I got a drivers side headlight that needs some work.
Will be selling my used turbos, thermostat and water pump, front turbo inlet (I cut the back one, don't ask.)

Okay that's it for now, sorry for the essay. I'll post pics as I go along.

Cheers

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

congrats on the 335is,
is this the part you need?

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/BMW...tt=31116785640

or this??
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/BMW...tt=41117135611

[Clubfed11]

yeah its part: 41117135611 but there is also this: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/41117135613/
which might work? I haven't done any welding or cutting on cars so not sure. I'm waiting to hear back from a friend of a friend to see if they can help.

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

Originally Posted by Clubfed11

yeah its part: 41117135611 but there is also this: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/41117135613/
which might work? I haven't done any welding or cutting on cars so not sure. I'm waiting to hear back from a friend of a friend to see if they can help.

ending in 613: left
ending in 614: right

this is way above my pay grade....has anyone on our forum removed/replaced these....successfully??

RealOEM states:
"Performed using adhesive bonding/riveting repair method.
If necessary, with Metal insert for spring mount."

looks like Adhesive Repair Kits, Rivets, Fasteners, etc....are also required.

[Clubfed11]

haha same. I found some good videos on youtube about it:

That has a couple parts, pretty informative but he has a fancy computer. I'm thinking what I'll do is cut out the bad section, tack in the new section and see if I can get the radiator pack and crash bar to line up along with the bumper and hood. I need the hood to get fixed first of course, or buy a new one. If so just weld it in. I don't own a welder so would have a friend do this who knows what they're doing.

Also thinking of just cutting out the bad and welding in a random piece that is around the same size. I know that if I get in an accident that won't be good but sorta just trying to do this for cheap. Cardboard is strong right? JK

I worked on the valve cover gasket last night and was a little annoyed...someone was pretty rough with the pry bar maybe? I tried to knock down the high parts without doing more damage...I might have knocked a small chip of aluminum into the engine...how screwed am I? Anyone tear an N54 fully down? Doesn't seem too bad but I feel like I'll misplace a bolt or something lol

Looking at the top of the block will I need a shop to smooth this out or should I be okay with the new gasket? I don't wanna do all this work and just have it leak again. Let me know your thoughts.

Also worked on the EKPM3 upgrades. Added the 60mm Noctua fan and thermal pads, heat sinks and a large heat sink but didn't fit so removed the big one.

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

Originally Posted by Clubfed11

haha same. I found some good videos on youtube about it:

That has a couple parts, pretty informative but he has a fancy computer. I'm thinking what I'll do is cut out the bad section, tack in the new section and see if I can get the radiator pack and crash bar to line up along with the bumper and hood. I need the hood to get fixed first of course, or buy a new one. If so just weld it in. I don't own a welder so would have a friend do this who knows what they're doing.

Also thinking of just cutting out the bad and welding in a random piece that is around the same size. I know that if I get in an accident that won't be good but sorta just trying to do this for cheap. Cardboard is strong right? JK

I worked on the valve cover gasket last night and was a little annoyed...someone was pretty rough with the pry bar maybe? I tried to knock down the high parts without doing more damage...I might have knocked a small chip of aluminum into the engine...how screwed am I? Anyone tear an N54 fully down? Doesn't seem too bad but I feel like I'll misplace a bolt or something lol

Looking at the top of the block will I need a shop to smooth this out or should I be okay with the new gasket? I don't wanna do all this work and just have it leak again. Let me know your thoughts.

Also worked on the EKPM3 upgrades. Added the 60mm Noctua fan and thermal pads, heat sinks and a large heat sink but didn't fit so removed the big one.

"Also thinking of just cutting out the bad and welding in a random piece that is around the same size. I know that if I get in an accident that won't be good but sorta just trying to do this for cheap."

metalurgy question(s)....
-is the existing metal repair/weld possible?
-is the existing metal wall thickness weldable?
-will welding the existing metal create a weakened area?
-if there is factory epoxy used for the vehicles initial build, could the heat from welding weaken or violate the factory epoxy?

has anyone out there attempted welding this location? replaced w/oem parts?

if welded, will this invasive repair be disclosed in the future sale of the vehicle?

will the insurance carrier be aware of the weld repair?

i'm a fellow 335is owner but do have a few questions and hope you are successful.

[Clubfed11]

worked on walnut blasting the intake ports tonight, went pretty well. Used a bunch of CRC Intake Valve Cleaner, walnuts and picks. Turbos are ready for pickup so I can start putting things back together.

Before:

After:

[Clubfed11]

I just realized I've been posting over on Reddit but would rather keep my build here. I got an oil analysis by Blackstone. Tons of fuel in the oil so I replaced the rod bearings. Engine is bout ready to drop back in...still need to fix the darn frame though.



and the old bearings...what's going on with the spots? got too hot? or could that point to the leaky injector cylinder? Let me know what I should tackle next..once I get the engine in the car I'm going to test the injectors and replace any leaky ones.