[davidmc1000]

Hi all, I have a slight problem with the idrive controller. The system it self works as you can hover over the numbers on the radio and displays what you have saved and can and answer calls via Bluetooth. The issue is that the actual controller does not work can't do anything with it none of the buttons work. I've tried anot her controller that was the same part number but still nothing. Prior to the car going to the garage to get a new alternator alternator and battery as the car died, everything was working including the controller but after picking it back up it just doesn't work and the garage say it did when they had it . Can anyone please advise or give me any help I have no idea what else I can do apart fromantic taking it to the stealers and paying alot for it. TIA

[Sensible_]

Which generation I drive are we talking about? CCC or CIC?

You should interrogate car with a BMW spec code reader or diagnostic software.

You could just take a punt and get a replacement controller. Better to investigate the problem than guess however.

[davidmc1000]

Not sure on the difference in terms of CCC / CIC. How would I be able to tell which one is which?

I have tried another controller but that also did not work so I presume its not just the controller.

[davidmc1000]

Okay I've just seen the difference between both CCC and CIC.
I have a CIC system if that's any help.

[Sensible_]

Originally Posted by davidmc1000

Not sure on the difference in terms of CCC / CIC. How would I be able to tell which one is which?

I have tried another controller but that also did not work so I presume its not just the controller.

Look at the attached pic. It's not e90 but the controllers are the same.

Left is CCC and right is for the newer CIC.

------

Do you have any diagnostic equipment?

Start by checking if the controller is getting a voltage by testing the power wire.

[IMG]https://5series.net/forums/attachmen...ve-gen-1-2.jpg[/IMG]

[davidmc1000]

Yeah its definitely CIC. Currently don't have anything to hand to check and would either need to borrow stuff from a friend at the garage or just pick stuff up to test. Just have no idea as to why it just suddenly stopped working. Would changing the battery and alternator have anything to do with it ?

[davidmc1000]

Hello all again,

just an update on the situation but the controller is still not working even after purchasing another controller and fitted. Restarted the idrive system with the mute and eject button still nothing. Any help again is appreciated. By the looks of it will have to bite the bullet and go to the stealers

[Mashman]

The controller should have a 4 wire connector, GND/12v/KCan1-Low/KCan1-High - The first thing I would check is to make sure the GND is connecting to ground, and the 12v is actually getting 12v. If there is nothing wrong with those, then the issue is with the kcan wires.

You can splice into the kcan bus (use a twisted pair from a cat-5 cable, and solder connections), and run a new connection to the controller if you need to, but I would try to find where the issue is. What was it in the garage for? Any chance they worked under the center console?

[davidmc1000]

Originally Posted by Mashman

The controller should have a 4 wire connector, GND/12v/KCan1-Low/KCan1-High - The first thing I would check is to make sure the GND is connecting to ground, and the 12v is actually getting 12v. If there is nothing wrong with those, then the issue is with the kcan wires.

You can splice into the kcan bus (use a twisted pair from a cat-5 cable, and solder connections), and run a new connection to the controller if you need to, but I would try to find where the issue is. What was it in the garage for? Any chance they worked under the center console?

Thanks for your reply. Sorry for the long delay. Went into the garage for the alternator and battery to be replaced, but later found that they had spilt liquid down near the controller and is quite sticky on the 4 pin wire where the connector is. Luckily no where near the gearbox. So what i'm going to try is to get some electrical cleaner and see if that would help. Since having the tyre pressure pop up i've been unable to reset and is driving me nuts.

[Myztahe]

Originally Posted by Mashman

The controller should have a 4 wire connector, GND/12v/KCan1-Low/KCan1-High - The first thing I would check is to make sure the GND is connecting to ground, and the 12v is actually getting 12v. If there is nothing wrong with those, then the issue is with the kcan wires.

You can splice into the kcan bus (use a twisted pair from a cat-5 cable, and solder connections), and run a new connection to the controller if you need to, but I would try to find where the issue is. What was it in the garage for? Any chance they worked under the center console?

Reviving this thread Mashman - I am reading 4.5V, not 12V across my wiring harness (read by probing the iDrive PCB directly at the inputs). What is the recommended way to proceed?

[Gray335i]

i had same problem, bad connection to canbus.
if you are not getting proper 12V in your controller you can always splice into your Headunit 12V , same thing with can hi and can low wires.

[Myztahe]

Originally Posted by Gray335i

i had same problem, bad connection to canbus.
if you are not getting proper 12V in your controller you can always splice into your Headunit 12V , same thing with can hi and can low wires.

Interesting.. do you have any photos or can you recommend wiring diagrams for which wires to splice?

[davidmc1000]

Hopefully this diagram helps you.

(Taken from another thread last year, cannot remember which one)

[moskito99]

Im replying here because I have similar issues in an E60.

I took battery off to replace speakers in the door. When all was finished and I reconnected the battery, my iDrive Controller did not work anymore. No light, no buttons, no nothing. Fuses were checked, CIC was reseted, MOST Ring config was saved in ISTA, battery was taken off 30+ minutes…..

Before I took battery off all was perfectly fine. Never had any issues with the controller…

I wonder what else I can do with INPA and ISTA before I take everthing apart…Since all was good before I took battery off, I do not expect any issues with cables etc….any help is much appreciated!

[elaraj80]

Originally Posted by moskito99

Im replying here because I have similar issues in an E60.

I took battery off to replace speakers in the door. When all was finished and I reconnected the battery, my iDrive Controller did not work anymore. No light, no buttons, no nothing. Fuses were checked, CIC was reseted, MOST Ring config was saved in ISTA, battery was taken off 30+ minutes…..

Before I took battery off all was perfectly fine. Never had any issues with the controller…

I wonder what else I can do with INPA and ISTA before I take everthing apart…Since all was good before I took battery off, I do not expect any issues with cables etc….any help is much appreciated!

I have same issue with my E90 after my battery dead I jumped the car and the iDrive controller completely not working . I have tried new unit and nothing I took it to the dealer for diagnostic and the told me the unit need to be replace cost 1313.21 . I was like what I have tried new unit and nothing .

So I guess this is any software issue cause my Nav, Radio, Sound elc works just fine

View post on imgur.com

if any update on this issue please post it here to help .

[ItsCoo2PYoPants]

Originally Posted by elaraj80

I have same issue with my E90 after my battery dead I jumped the car and the iDrive controller completely not working . I have tried new unit and nothing I took it to the dealer for diagnostic and the told me the unit need to be replace cost 1313.21 . I was like what I have tried new unit and nothing .

So I guess this is any software issue cause my Nav, Radio, Sound elc works just fine

View post on imgur.com

if any update on this issue please post it here to help .

Any update?

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by elaraj80

I have same issue with my E90 after my battery dead I jumped the car and the iDrive controller completely not working . I have tried new unit and nothing I took it to the dealer for diagnostic and the told me the unit need to be replace cost 1313.21 . I was like what I have tried new unit and nothing .

So I guess this is any software issue cause my Nav, Radio, Sound elc works just fine

View post on imgur.com

if any update on this issue please post it here to help .

Hold up, when they say they need unit replaced are they talking only about the iDrive joystick? If so, how is it 1300$, the part is just about 350$ and takes 5 minutes to install.


I also have similar issue here, after taking my car from the body shop 3 weeks get in the car and it doesn't work. I think they even charged or jump started my battery.

EDIT UPDATE: I forgot to edit my post back then, since I found it let me conclude my iDrive issue. I ended up having to buy a repalcement joystick as the "module" is itself and for whatever reason it decided to die. My iDrive module showed up as red in ISTA

[ccfj1]

Check the fuse for the controller.

My controller stopped working once and and that's what it was.

[khurmit]

Originally Posted by ccfj1

Check the fuse for the controller.

My controller stopped working once and and that's what it was.

Hi - where can the fuse be found, and what fuse number is it?

[ccfj1]

behind the glove box and its in the manual.

[Cyberdemon]

Bumping an old thread, but my iDrive controller died after changing the battery.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1793207

Fuses that were listed in the manual and ISTA (14, 27) and a bunch of others all looked fine. Idrive works normally other than the controller, and the controller pins show 12v on 1&2 and 3&4.

My only next step at this point is to replace the controller but still miffed at how it would randomly short circuit without blowing the fuse.

[kissdaring]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

Bumping an old thread, but my iDrive controller died after changing the battery.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1793207

Fuses that were listed in the manual and ISTA (14, 27) and a bunch of others all looked fine. Idrive works normally other than the controller, and the controller pins show 12v on 1&2 and 3&4.

My only next step at this point is to replace the controller but still miffed at how it would randomly short circuit without blowing the fuse.

I'd like to bring this back from the dead. Same issue here. I'm getting 12v on two pins. The rest not. The tmps light is on and steering wheel voice control doesn't do anything when pressed. The controller has a bit of Condinsation I tried to clean it but still no luck. I have purchased a used unit to test it and will know tomorrow. Any ideas just incase? thanks