[Diego707]

Hey everyone new here, I’ve been dealing with some issues with my 2011 328i. I was on my way home and I had stopped at a red light, when it turned green I hit the gas but the car wasn’t going nowhere the rpm’s went up and the car jerked then it started to move, The next day I got a light on my dash (as shown) so I took it in to get a diagnostic here’s what they found.

• “Vehicle has fault #56BF clutch gears 1,2,3 and 4 neutral test”
• Fault #56C5 shift valve B stuck in off position. Fluid level is topped off, fluid quality is good. Transmission is failing. Recommend new transmission”

They told me straight forward that I was going to need a new transmission so I asked for a quote and they said 3k-10k. I asked about a used one as well but apparently it can’t be done because “its a newer model” I’ve owned the car for 2 years now, I’ve replaced coil overs and sparks plugs not to long ago. I’m not quite ready to spend that much money on replacing it or fixing it,so I’m taking it to a different mechanic for another quote and diagnostic. Is it worth fixing if the repairs cost me more than the car itself?

Any help or edvice would be appreciated thank you.

[LanDzia]

Most important question is - what transmission is it? ZF or GM.
If ZF, it should be serviceable.

I might be wrong, but I'm quite certain this is due to stuck solenoid that can be changed inside mechatronic unit.

Worth sending fault codes alongside description (without BS like "advised change of transmission") to ZF and see what they say.
Google ZF help desk and email them. They're usually quick to reply with their advise on what to check or do.

It might be as simple as solenoids change alongside all sleeves, oil and filter. Might run up to $1k depending who does the work. Afterwards transmission should be like new, that is if it wasn't abused when it was slipping etc.

P.s. worst case scenario - transmission rebuild. Cost up to $3k.

[Hoody007]

328i should be a GM gearbox. OP what is the last 7 of your VIN?

Either way, gearboxes should be plentiful from wrecked E90s…

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by Diego707

[*]Fault #56C5 shift valve B stuck in off position. Fluid level is topped off, fluid quality is good. Transmission is failing. Recommend new transmission”[/LIST]

In other words "this guy has a BMW, deep pockets, let's make some money!"


Take it to a different shop and get another estimate (or more.) What's the history of the car? Was the transmission serviced recently? How many miles on the car?

[Diego707]

Originally Posted by LanDzia

Most important question is - what transmission is it? ZF or GM.
If ZF, it should be serviceable.

I might be wrong, but I'm quite certain this is due to stuck solenoid that can be changed inside mechatronic unit.

Worth sending fault codes alongside description (without BS like "advised change of transmission") to ZF and see what they say.
Google ZF help desk and email them. They're usually quick to reply with their advise on what to check or do.

It might be as simple as solenoids change alongside all sleeves, oil and filter. Might run up to $1k depending who does the work. Afterwards transmission should be like new, that is if it wasn't abused when it was slipping etc.

P.s. worst case scenario - transmission rebuild. Cost up to $3k.

Honestly Im not sure what transmission it is. I’ve never really looked into it, I’m really busy with work but I will keep that in mind. I will definitely contact them and see what they have to say but I’m willing to pay as long as it doesn’t cost me more then the car itself. Hasn’t been abused since i bought it and currently I am not using the car, I have it in my garage since it’s stuck in limp mode and it’s not worth making it worse. 3k without the labor or with it? Much appreciated.

[Diego707]

Originally Posted by Hoody007

328i should be a GM gearbox. OP what is the last 7 of your VIN?

Either way, gearboxes should be plentiful from wrecked E90s…

Last 7 numbers are F093429

[Diego707]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

In other words "this guy has a BMW, deep pockets, let's make some money!"


Take it to a different shop and get another estimate (or more.) What's the history of the car? Was the transmission serviced recently? How many miles on the car?

I honestly feel like they try overcharging me sometimes just cause I look young. Definitely not wrong about that and will do thank you. I’m not sure, I’m the 3rd owner and when I bought the car I got no paperwork about it’s history I’m sure there’s a way to find it though. Not since I bought the car, the only work I’ve done to it was getting the spark plugs and coil overs replaced a few months ago. Coming up on 120,000 miles bought it around 104,000 miles

[lordnikon]

Only way to tell definitively is to look underneath the car. The GM unit has a metal pan with a green sticker whereas the ZF transmission has a black plastic pan.

I was told that all xDrive autos use GM and RWD models uses ZF but may not always be true.

[Hoody007]

Originally Posted by Diego707

Last 7 numbers are F093429

Looks like you have the GM gearbox.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Diego707

... 2011 328i. I was on my way home and I had stopped at a red light, when it turned green I hit the gas but the car wasn’t going nowhere the rpm’s went up and the car jerked then it started to move, The next day I got a light on my dash (as shown) so I took it in to get a diagnostic here’s what they found.

• “Vehicle has fault #56BF clutch gears 1,2,3 and 4 neutral test”
• Fault #56C5 shift valve B stuck in off position. Fluid level is topped off, fluid quality is good. Transmission is failing. Recommend new transmission”

They told me straight forward that I was going to need a new transmission so I asked for a quote and they said 3k-10k...

Originally Posted by Diego707

Honestly Im not sure what transmission it is. I’ve never really looked into it, I’m really busy with work... I am not using the car, I have it in my garage since it’s stuck in limp mode and it’s not worth making it worse...

Originally Posted by Diego707

I honestly feel like they try overcharging me sometimes just cause I look young...

Welcome to the Forum!
Friendly Suggestions (from a Cynical DIY'er):

1) $hop$ are in Bu$ine$$ to make $MONEY$;
2) Some $hop$ are more reputable (LESS FrauDulent) than others ;
3) Folks who KNOW you "Don't Know" will be tempted to "Take Advantage of YOU"/ Take your money.
4) DON'T TEMPT FOLKS!
5) AT LEAST: take the time to learn what proper Diagnostic Software (INPA/ISTA) can Do & BASICS of HOW your vehicle Systems WORK.
6) Forum Folks can help you LEARN Basics.

Your Specific Case:

1) Low Transmission Fluid can cause transmission to "slip out of gear" or seemingly go into Neutral due to LOW Fluid Pressure. That first happens most often when Engine & Transmission Fluid is Cold and/or at LOW RPM, as idling at light.

2) Low Transmission Fluid (or improperly installed Transmission Filter) can cause the two Fault Codes you list.

3) The Automatic Transmission Module (EGS) has "History Memory"/ "Historienspeicher" which will show last 10 Fault Codes in Fault Memory, even after "Fault Memory" or "Fehlerspeicher" is cleared. "Historienspeicher" also shows "Freeze Frame data" or conditions such as Temp & RPM at the moment the Code was saved, and Mileage/km at which the last three (3) instances of that code were saved.

4) INPA is BMW Factory-Level Diagnostic Software, and can read History Memory. Any good Automatic Transmission Shop that deals with GM6 transmission (in MOST 328i Models) should have INPA or other software that can display ALL the History Memory & Fault Memory in your GM6 AT. Software can ALSO display "Live data", such as Switch Functions, Temperature, RPM, etc.

5) Do NOT take vehicle to Dealer. Most reliable Diagnosis would likely be found at AT Shop that knows GM6 AT (GA6L45R).

6) If you do NOT personally OBSERVE what the tech does in diagnosis, you are "road kill", totally ignorant of whether they actually did anything.

7) Did "they" (whoever you quote in Post #1) actually CHECK Fluid Level? On your GM6, that requires running engine & shifting through gears with Fluid FILL Plug removed, Adding Fluid (Dexron VI) until fluid runs OUT of Fill Plug Hole, and then inserting fill plug with engine STILL RUNNING, as one to two quarts of Fluid will run out of hole if engine is OFF (Torque Converter drains).

8) If you have ANY Fluid leak, such as from Transmission Cooler hose fittings due to bad O-ring, you can slowly lose fluid until your current symptoms or codes appear. Your "Splash Shields" under the engine may prevent your seeing Fluid Spots on the pavement/ floor. Look at inner face of Splash Shields & carefully examine AT Cooler Hoses, going to/from Radiator.

Sadly, as things get MORE "DETAILED"/ more complicated, folks tend to find reasons why they cannot "keep up with" or understand DETAILS in things they use everyday. That results in relying on someone else to understand or explain those DETAILS. Look all around you: today's current Business Models: Most are built on taking advantage of the Willful Ignorance of others (their Customers).

Hope YOU can find a REPUTABLE Shop (AT Repair/Service) that has the necessary equipment/ knowledge/ Integrity to properly diagnose your GM6. Please let us know what you find.
George