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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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How to buy a used E9X BMW 3 Series
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| 07-20-2018, 12:19 AM | #1 |
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How to buy a used E9X BMW 3 Series
 Featured on BIMMERPOST.com So, you want to get into a nice German money pit? Your Camry only cost you oil and gas but the allure of a blue and white roundel keeps you up at night. But in all seriousness these cars are a tremendous value for money. But every BMW will require a little bit of love or it will leave you stranded. BMW's need proper servicing and care or they will break. Japanese cars are designed to take abuse and still function everyday. Once you read this guide you will be an expert on the E9X and be able to purchase a properly maintained car that will give you many years of loyal service. There is no reason why any loved E9X couldn’t last for 300,000 miles or more. The basics of buying any used car: Go watch videos 1 through 5 of Chris Fix’s "How to buy a used car" series. He did an amazing job of explaining everything you need to look for when buying a used car. This applies to buying $100k cars at a dealer or a $1k car of Craigslist. The key is you should find out everything about the car BEFORE you buy it and not after. The differences between buying from a private party, used car or new car dealer: Dealers exist because they are convenient, not because their cars are better than a private party. I always prefer buying from a private party as you save thousands over a dealer, you almost always get service records, you get to meet the actual owner of the car and you can get a sense of what life the car lived. That being said, it can be very difficult to deal with private sellers and with a dealer you can test drive a bunch of cars in a short amount of time. In my opinion I would test drive a few cars at dealer to know what options you want. Then you can look around for the perfect car for you at a dealer or from a private party. When looking at private party car listings you should always look for an informative listing with a lot of pictures. Was the car cleaned out or does it look like rats live in there? Is the car at their house or is it at a mechanic's shop? Does the owner have a good understanding of the English language? Normally, If the seller took time to create a good listing, they are more likely to have taken pride in ownership of their car. Remember, if you do not have a receipt then the work was not done! For dealers it is a curve ball; I have been to many new car dealers that pedal sub $10,000 junk and to back ally car lots that sold decent cars. Show up dressed like a decent human being. You don’t need a suit but make sure you do not look like trash. Remember you are running the show and if they dick you around just stand up and walk out. Don’t treat them bad, but run the show. Younger people will have a harder time at a dealership. You will need to push a bit harder to get noticed. Should I buy a car with an accident on the Carfax? Accidents depreciate cars 10%-30% over a clean Carfax car. I would buy an accident car if it had full documentation of the repairs by a highly rated body shop. Anything less than that walk away. I have seen my fair share of absolutely botched repairs. Should I buy a salvage or rebuilt title car? If you are reading this guide then absolutely not. Rebuilt or salvage cars have been in a significant accident were the insurance company deemed it cheaper for them to replace the car, then to have it repaired. Often in states with relaxed salvage title laws people will poorly repair these vehicles and then resell them on back ally car lots or private party. If you are a highly experienced car buyer then buying a salvage car maybe would be a good idea. Note, this is concerning cars from an insurance auction. If your E9X that you already own was in a light accident and the insurance declared it a total loss then a lot of times it is worth it to buy the car back and have it fixed. “I found a car I want to buy, what do I do next?” Ask if they have any service records. Then take the car for an independent pre-purchase inspection at a shop that specializes in European cars. This is vital as they can scan the car with a very expensive diagnostic tool and know everything that is wrong with the car. Even expert car buyers can't see everything at a car lot All of the different models: E90= Sedan E91= Wagon E92= Coupe E93= Convertible LCI vs Non LCI LCI = Life Cycle Impulse: The facelift of the E9X starting with the 2009 model year. LCI cars have different taillights, headlights, mirrors, hood, trunk, climate controls, sun visors, navigation system, and a few more bits and bobs. They removed engine insulation, keyhole for the trunk, cooling for the center console, flashlight in the glove box, rear cup holders, rear storage nets and ruined the base stereo. LCI cars hold a few thousand premium over pre-LCI. Options, engines and models will vary depending on your location, this is based off the US Market. Pre-LCI Models: 2006 BMW 330i 255HP 3.0l N52 NA inline six cylinder 2006 BMW 325i: 215HP 2.5l N52 NA inline six cylinder 2007-2008 BMW 328i: 231HP 3.0l N52 NA inline six cylinder 2007-2008 BMW 335i: 302HP N54 Twin Turbo inline six cylinder LCI Models: 2009-2013 BMW 328i: 231HP 3.0l N52 NA inline six cylinder 2009-2010 BMW 335i: 302HP N54 or N55 Twin Turbo inline six cylinder (*2009-2010 335i cars may have a N54 or N55) 2011-2013 BMW 335i: 302HP N55 Single Turbo inline six cylinder 2011-2013 BMW 335is: 322HP N54 Twin Turbo inline six cylinder 2009-2011 BMW 335d: 282HP M57 Turbo Diesel six cylinder SULV cars have the N51 which is a modified N52. N51 cars have more emissions BS. Naturally aspirated (NA) cars are the most reliable of the E9X. BMW have been making NA inline six cylinder engines for forever and it shows. The 335i is a rocket ship and you can very easily make almost 500HP with basic bolt on parts. The 335d is not worth it out of warranty IMO. BMW used a very complicated emissions setup to get it to pass strict US diesel emissions standards. This system has been known to fail and cost a lot of money to repair. X-Drive or four-wheel drive is available for all models. Only get an X-Drive car only if you NEED it. I would rather have an RWD E9X with winter tires then a X-Drive with all seasons. Anyone north of New York could benefit from X-Drive. X-Drive cars are noticeably harder and more expensive to maintain over RWD cars. Pricing for the E9X goes from $3,000 to $30,000 depending on location, year, condition, mileage, model, options, ect. Check KBB.com for accurate pricing for the exact model you want in your area. Packages: (This was pulled from the 2009 options list. Different years had slightly different options and packages.) ZCW Cold Weather Package: 465 Fold down rear seats w/ski bag 494 Heated front seats 502 Retractable headlight washers ZPP Premium Package: 319 Universal Garage Door Opener 430 Auto-dimming mirrors 431 Auto-dimming rearview mirror 459 Power front seats 488 Lumbar support 4NA Digital compass mirror 639 BMW Assist w/Bluetooth System LC Leather Dakota ZSP Sport Package 255 Sports leather steering wheel or 2XA Sport steering wheel w/paddles 2S1 17" wheels w/ mixed tires (style 286) 481 Sport seats 704 Sport suspension 760 Shadowline trim 840 Increased top speed limiter Options: 205 STEPTRONIC automatic trans. 2KU 17" wheels w/all-season tires (style 285) 2XA Sport steering wheel w/paddles 322 Comfort Access system 417 Manual side/rear power shades 459 Power front seats 465 Fold down rear seats w/ski bag 494 Heated front seats 4A3 Light Burl Walnut trim 4B9 Aluminum Trim 508 Park Distance Control 522 Xenon headlights 541 Active Cruise Control 609 Navigation system 639 BMW Assist w/Bluetooth System 653 HD radio 655 Satellite radio w/1 year sub. 677 Logic7 sound system 6FL iPod and USB adapter Pre LCI brochure (Canada Market) LCI brochure Options and packages are very important on any BMW. They can add thousands in value over other cars. It is not like most other car's were you have two choices of interior color and that is about it. Make sure you get the options you want as retrofitting them latter can be a difficult and expensive task. Run each vin through https://www.bmwvin.com/ to see all of the options each car has. IMO, I would not buy a E9X without Xenon headlights and the convenience package. Reliability, common problems and maintenance: If you want a reliable car go buy a Toyota product. These are dependable cars, not reliable cars. If you let the car go for maintenance it will total itself out. If you keep up with it you will never join the tow truck club. N52, N54 and N55 powered cars: Electric water pump and thermostat: All E9X cars have an electric water pump that will go out past 60k miles. It is common practice to replace this before it leaves you stranded. Cost: $1000 - $1200 at a shop or DIY for $400. Starter failure: The starter, especially on early cars, tends to go out at around 80k miles. Cost: $600 to $1300 at a shop or $200 DIY Belt tensioner: Sometimes the tensioner will start to bend causing the belt to slip off and grenade everything around it. Cost: (if nothing was damaged): $300 to $600 at a shop, $100 DIY. Oil filter housing gasket: The OFHG will start to leak around 80k. The oil will drip onto the belt and destroy the belt. If this happens you run the risk of causing extensive damage to the engine. Cost: $300 to $600 at a shop, $50 DIY. Valve cover gasket with eccentric shaft sensor seal: Every single BMW has a leaky VCG around 80k miles. Cost: $600 to $1000 at a shop or $100 DIY Oil pan gasket: The oil pan gasket will start to sweat at around 80k miles and require replacement before 140k miles. Cost: $700 to $1800 at a shop, $100 DIY. N54: Intake carbon buildup: Carbon will build up in the intake side of the head. This needs to be walnut blasted away between 35k and 50k miles. Cost: $350 to $800. $300 DIY the first time then $30 every time after. Waste gate rattle: This can be fixed by turning the rear actuator rod 2.5 turns and shimming the front actuator with two, U shaped #8 washers. This fix is temporary in nature which can last 1,000 miles or 40,000 miles or more. Turbo replacement is the permanent fix. Cost: $2000-7000 at a shop, $1700 DIY. Coil packs: The coils will go bad and cause a misfire. Cost: $600 at a shop, $200 DIY. Bad fuel injectors: These will also cause a misfire. Cost: $2000 at a shop, $1300 DIY. N55: Coil packs: Will go bad and cause misfire. Cost: $ 600 at a shop, $200 DIY. DIY: Easy:
Moderate:
Hard Learning how to turn a wrench saves a lot of money. I remember I did a cooling system overhaul on my E36 when I was 16. I didn't know what the hell I was doing and never turned a wrench before. I took my time and powered through without too much difficulty. Even DIYing little things on your car will save a lot of money in labor. Maintenance notes: (Many people have different views on maintenance intervals. These are the intervals I follow with my own car. If your intervals differ from mine that is fine as all cars are driven under different conditions.)
BMW states their automatic transmission fluid is a lifetime fluid. This is false, most transmissions will make it to 150k on the original fluid but then anything past that they will start having catastrophic issues. IMO, I would not buy an auto E9X past 125k miles that you did not have documented proof that the transmission fluid was changed. If your car is above 60k then change the transmission fluid and filter. Tires: BMW equipped these cars with run flat tires from the factory with the claim they can drive up to 50 miles at 50 miles per hour after a puncture. Run flat tires are expensive, they ride hard, are heavy and wear out more quickly then a conventional, all season tire. It is very common for people to swap these out for a conventional tire and throw a spare tire in the trunk. When you are looking at a E9X, make sure the tires have good tread on them, are not dry rotted and have a ratting of at least A A.Click here for information about the UTQG rating system. Forum favorite part websites: https://www.fcpeuro.com/ https://www.bavauto.com/ https://www.fcpeuro.com/ http://www.bimmerworld.com/ https://www.ecstuning.com/ https://www.turnermotorsport.com/ https://www.autohausaz.com/ Diagnostics and Coding Go buy a Windows 7 32bit laptop and install BMW standard Tools and ISTA. These will help diagnose and code your car. I have saved over $1000 with these tools and a D can cable. Closing Thoughts: If you want a dependable daily driver I would purchase a N52 (LCI or non LCI) powered car with around 80k to 100k miles. Preferably a car that has had all of the major service items completed already. I bought my car with 80k on the clock that just had the water pump, thermostat, VCG, OFHG repaired and a brand new set of run flat tires put on. Yearly operating cost should be around $2,000 for maintenance and repairs at a trusted, independent mechanic. People who try and DIY everything can push the costs down to bellow $1000 a year. Turbo cars will have slightly higher operating cost. All E9X cars require 91 octane so that should be considered at purchase as well. You now should have all of the information you need to buy a good example of an E9X or any car for that matter. If you can take your time with the car buying processes; wait until you find "the car". Many forum members who bought a good E9X and DIY their repairs as much as possible will spend no more a year then on a Camry. If I missed anything, which I am sure I have, please tell me bellow and I will add it to the guide. This is a living breathing document that will be updated. Last edited by Nickco43; 02-14-2021 at 06:56 PM.. |
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| 07-20-2018, 01:09 AM | #3 | |
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| 07-20-2018, 07:00 AM | #5 |
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Well, I have a few comments. Very good info regarding the packages and availability. Kudos.
I'm not sure what the difference is between "reliable" and "dependable", you probably need to explain that. I disagree with your comment regarding salvage title cars. With an older E9X car with adaptive xenons, replacement of just one of the head lights at over $1,000 a pop will total the car. I just hit a deer in my '06 325i. It was totaled by the insurance company. I bought it back and it just is finishing up in the shop today. Have a small front-end collision that bends the hood and breaks the plastic core support and takes out a light or two, and an older 3 series (say the coveted 330i) will get totaled, but is a perfectly fine car if rebuilt. In my state the re-title process for a rebuilt is pretty extensive and costs $125 for a state inspection and review of the rebuild work. The E9X takes very little maintenance and tells the owner when to change the oil and service the spark plugs, I'm not sure why anyone would not keep up with the maintenance, since it's even less than most Japanese cars require. The service book that comes with the manual set says to change the automatic trans fluid at 100,000 mile intervals. If the car has been dealer maintained, I'd not worry about the maintenance aspect. The internet "lifetime" crap is a myth. I'm sure your one that believes the BMW CBS service plan is a ruse by BMW set to lower its cost of providing the "free maintenance", and that the extended oil service interval is detrimental to long-term ownership. I have proof it's perfectly adequate in maintaining an E9X into high mileages. So if your advice about maintenance abuse is to not buy a E9X that didn't see 5,000 - 7,500 mile oil changes, then I'd disagree with you. Clarification would help. I do agree with your position regarding a correctly repaired BMW from a certified BMW shop. If the records are available, then no need to worry about longevity. My opinion is E9X are frickin' tanks at least with the N52. Even driven hard and put away wet and following the CBS schedule, the E9X will last a very long time. One part a lot of people who think they know the E90 pretty well overlook is the driveshaft. I think the driveshaft is a weak link in the drivetrain in high mile situations. The oil leaks you mention are more time related than miles related. My car had none of the common leaks until double or triple the miles you stated. You left out the dual-mass flywheel. For manual trans cars, the dual-mass flywheel can fail after high miles and cause driveline vibrations that are hard to diagnose; same with a worn driveshaft. And NEVER buy a BMW from CarMax. CarMax is the biggest used car sham going. My 2 cents.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
Last edited by Efthreeoh; 10-13-2018 at 08:24 AM.. |
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| 07-20-2018, 09:12 AM | #7 |
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Here are the pricing sheets for 2011 models. They give the full option list for LCI. https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347070
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| 07-20-2018, 09:25 AM | #8 |
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Pre-LCI 335i went to 2010. 2011 is LCI
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Mods related to trouble shooting posts: Stock Turbos, MHD OTS V7 stage 2+ 93 oct, VRSF Downpipes, VRSF Relocated inlets, CTS Turbo 7" Intercooler, Tial BOV with upgraded line 5.56mm, index 12 injectors, A/T OEM Flash.
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| 07-20-2018, 09:29 AM | #9 | |
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| 07-20-2018, 09:44 AM | #10 |
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Great post man!
A few comments: I'm sure it's obvious to most of us, but depreciation from accidents varies largely based on the size of the claim. For a minor claim (~$2000), you shouldn't expect anywhere near a 25% hit on value. But as the claim amount rises, the curve becomes increasingly steeper. I remember we once took in an F13 M6 with an $80k+ (!!!) hit on it. The thing was fucked. I don't know how we sold it. And believe me, that was the first thing we disclosed to would-be buyers. For cars with minor claims, prices weren't all that different. Obviously the lack of accident-free status was a turnoff to some buyers, but sales prices for these small-claim cars were not massively different from what an accident-free unit would fetch. You also mention you wouldn't buy an E90 without xenon's and Convenience Package, but you didn't list a convenience package in the options list you gave. What is this referring to? Also, why is there no 328 in the LCI section? Wasn't sure if this was intentional  I've attached a PDF I had laying around from the 2007 MY E90. This concerns the Canadian market, so options are different, but hopefully it still adds some value to this thread. Keep up the good work. |
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| 07-20-2018, 10:40 AM | #12 |
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I thought the 325i is a 3.0L and the 323i (Canada only) is a 2.5L?
I would add, with the LCI, they removed some features astute buyers would notice: *Engine insulation *Key hole for trunk *Flash Light in glove box *some debate on interior materials *base stereo became awful sounding *others I am forgetting...? Issues: adaptive lights can fail, ideal is to have xenons without adaptive feature And the Logic 7 stereo is simply phenomenal, even compared to modern stereos. If you don't have it with an LCI model, the stereo needs upgrades to sound good. |
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| 07-20-2018, 10:45 AM | #13 | |
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| 07-20-2018, 11:01 AM | #14 | |
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Other items I noticed that were removed, clear lenses over front map lights, BMW ZENON script inside headlights, fuzzy felt material on rubber door seals, sun visors were changed to cheap plastic, cooling feature inside centre console, nets on the rear of the front seats, the rear storage area under the truck is no longer lined now just plastic and the rest button on HVAC......off the top of my head.  |
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| 07-20-2018, 11:10 AM | #15 | |
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1) The USA/CA model gets 36 mpg highway (I have gotten as high as 41 mpg). 2) Most importantly, the 335d exists only in 2009, 10, 11 model years, and only in sedan form in the USA/CA. Overall, I agree with your opinion that MOST buyers should not buy a 335d. The emissions system (for NOx reduction) is extremely complicated and virtually certain to fail, and fail multiple times. The parts to repair that system are quite expensive. However, the engine, turbos, cooling system (other than thermostat), transmission have proven quite reliable. |
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| 07-20-2018, 11:17 AM | #16 |
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Perfect, just add that dripping oil on OFHG destroys the belt by dislodging it and causing it to wrap around the shaft and even getting sucked into the engine and potentially destroying the engine.
A'd also add oil pan gasket which is not as common as other 2. |
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| 07-20-2018, 11:56 AM | #17 |
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Also add that the following fluids should be changed at 60k miles
Differential Fluid Power Steering Fluid and if you have XDRIVE change the transfer case fluid as well |
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| 07-20-2018, 12:32 PM | #18 | |
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I have nothing against salvage cars when you know what your doing and your state is relaxed about them. Buying back your own salvage car is way different then going to the auction and buying one. When you buy back your own car you know exactly what damage the car has. Going to the auction or on CL you don't know all the damage that may be hiding. Oil drain intervals vary vastly depending on what type of oil is use and how you drive. When I want to see if the oil was changed at the correct interval I pop open the oil filler cap and look at the head. |
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| 07-20-2018, 12:41 PM | #19 |
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Intake carbon buildup:
Carbon will build up in the intake side of the head. This needs to be walnut blasted around 50k. Cost: $350 to $800. You need to make it say. DIY $220-260 initial for the cost of the walnut blasting kit and $25-30.00 every 36,000 miles after that. Also, I would not let carbon build up to 50,000 miles. 36k is plenty. Last, for N54 motors, you can reduce the amount of carbon build up by adding a RB PCV valve and a catch can. Waste gate rattle: This can be masked in many aftermarket tuner software. A permanent fix will require replacement of both turbos. Cost $2000-7000 at a shop, $1700 DIY. It should also say : Can be fixed by turning the rear actuator rod 2.5 turns & shimming the Front actuator with two U shaped no 8 washers. This fix is temporary in nature which can last 1000 miles or 40,000 miles and beyond. How much depends on how the car is used and the condition of the turbos to begin with. Maintenance notes: Maintenance: Oil Change every 5,000 to 7,500 miles or six months Coolant every two years Brake Fluid every two years Transmission, differential, power steering and transfer case (X-drive only) fluids every 60,000 miles Spark plugs every 60,000 miles for turbo or 80k-100k miles for non turbo Drive belt every 80k-100k miles Oil Change 5,000 to 7500 miles or 15000 miles (BMW interval) - use LL-01 certified 5w-40 in turbo charged engines. Brake fluid - every two years Trans fluid - 100,000 miles & then every 50,000 miles after that Differential- 100,000 miles & then every 50,000 miles after that Trans-axel (AWD) - 100,000 miles & then every 50,000 miles after that / * must use special BMW oil and it is $45-55.00 per liter Coolant - 100,000 miles & then every 50,000 miles after that Power steering fluid - every 50,000 miles & change out the filter/reservoir every 100,000 miles. Spark plugs - 45,000 miles for n54 60,000 miles for n55 80,000 - 100,00 miles for non-turbo Serpentine Belt & Pulleys - 60 to 100,000 miles Shocks & Struts - every 75,000 miles Brake Pads & Rotors - depending on how you drive / 30 to 80,000 miles. |
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| 07-20-2018, 12:51 PM | #20 |
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| 07-20-2018, 01:40 PM | #22 | |
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The fuel mileage it returns (even with emissions, better without) is fan-freaking-tastic for what it is: a car that pulls like a V8, 2000 RPM at 80 MPH all while returning 35 MPG...yup, its a keeper. Yes its a bit of a masochistic model Efthreeoh, no Carmax fan? No judgement just curious. Not every one can Demuro a car there, but they seem to be popular with folks wanting a no BS experience. Their used pricing is higher then private party, but not bad compared to dealers from the searches I have run as comps (which is not very often I admit, but occasionally - b |
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