[kisarci]

Hello all, this is probably a stupid question but I honestly cannot find the answer to it. Maybe my google skills are subpar...

Anyways, I am replacing my vacuum canisters which are currently relocated due to my hot side inlets. I was wondering, is there a top or bottom to the vacuum canisters? Is there a one way valve or ball inside? or does it not matter which end you connect the vacuum lines. Thanks in advance!

(I understand I can run without any canisters but I do not want to run into any issues with the brake booster)

[kisarci]

Anyone know which end of the canister connects to the boost solenoid?

[Sgop335]

For oem canisters it shouldn’t matter. Same part number, one canister is inverted in oem location.

[Misery]

You should just delete them and run a bypass for better boost

[kisarci]

Originally Posted by Misery

You should just delete them and run a bypass for better boost

I've read many posts through various forums how deleting them should be fine for most regular driving.
However, when you want to go WOT, and then have to brake right away, and then go WOT again right after braking, then there will most likely be an issue with the boost fluctuating.
There isn't enough vacuum to supply the brake booster along with the wastegate at the same time so they're fighting to steal the vacuum from each other which creates the temporary boost fluctuation.
I don't ever want to run into that problem so I will be keeping my boost canisters on.

I ended up purchasing the Turner Motorsport vacuum cannister relocation kit:

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...elocation-kit/

I like how it hides the canisters underneath the intake manifold and helps create more space to work around the engine bay.
I purchased the VTT vacuum canisters and will be putting those on this.

Originally Posted by Sgop335

For oem canisters it shouldn’t matter. Same part number, one canister is inverted in oem location.

And to answer my initial question in the first post, it does NOT matter which end you plug the vacuum lines on the canister.
The canister has no check valves/ball and is actually completely empty/hollow (thank you @Sgop335).
This is true with the VTT canisters as well.


(image from Turner installation guide)

[Podunk]

man i don't know why, but i had to tilt my relocation kit down cause the canister would simply not fit behind the AC bracket.

i'm also back and forth between vargas tanks and burger tanks.. i dont' want to support vargas cause i've seen forum posts where they literally laughed at customers with issues who bought 1st gen products from them, without offering a replacement, or at least a partial refund, and i'm not sure on burgers replacement either, and i don't know if either will fit without modification, so when you install yours, could you document anything you had to grind or modify?

(if there is a trend in a generation of product, and it is known, laughing at the people who paid good money is a stupid way to show appreciation to your customers, and you should refund them fully, or give them a replacement with a next gen product where those issues were addressed)

[kisarci]

UPDATE

Finally found some time to get it installed.
It was pretty plug and play for me using the VTT vacuum canisters.
I have a front facing manifold and had plenty of space without having to remove anything.
Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures and my car is back at the storage unit now.
I'll try to snap some pictures soon.