[Cenflamark]

It’s now going on 3 months that I’ve been without a car. I have a 2007 335i with 180k miles. I upgraded turbos, installed dp’s, and made this car into a ROCKET… until.. was pulling out of a parking lot and punched it and it immediately started running like crap. I made it to my house where it has sat. Here’s my main question/ptoblem.. when I start it… under the hood it is making a sound that sounds JUST LIKE if you were to put a shoe in your dryer and turn it on. Just like it! Anyone know what that could be the result of? Since this happened I’ve replaced hpfp, camshaft position sensor, upgraded MOSFET’s on the DME, cleaned fuel injectors and new seals, replaced fuel pump sending unit, replaced water pump and thermostat.

When I turn key it will start and run like crap for 10 seconds or so then the shoe in dryer sound then sputters out. Any help would be immensely appreciated!

Mark

[Podunk]

so you're complaining about an internal engine noise without looking at anything internal?

you haven't mentioned anything regarding compression or leakdown test,

you neglect to mention if you somehow shoved a hole in the side of your block.

You neglect to mention if you bought a cheap autel boroscope and checked each cylinder to see if the pistons kissed the valves and now you're playing rattle roulette. waiting for it to finally pull the trigger on itself and be done completely.

[Cenflamark]

There’s no hole in block. I am unfamiliar with the procedures you mentioned which is why I made the post. Now I know what to do next. Thank you. I will let you know the results.

[335i54n]

internal engine noise is never good. pull the plugs, try spin the crank and see how it feels (if smooth) then try compression check.

[iqraceworks]

This is why you don't fire up your car, pull out of a parking lot, and flog it.....bad things happen when you don't let your oil come up to operating temp before you hammer on your engine.

Sounds like your best bet it to take it to a shop and get an estimate. Or post up a video so people can hear this noise you are talking about.

[Cenflamark]

I will do just that!

[Cenflamark]

Ok bought the compression hardware and cylinders 1-5 all at 180. However, Cylinder 6 struggled to get to about 160. I did notice, by the way, a larger build up of carbon on the intake valves of cylinder 6 when I had the manifold off the other day.

What’s my next move?

[Cenflamark]

By the way there is no “shop” where I live and the local BMW dealer which is Fields BMW of Lakeland will not work on my car because ( they say) it is “too old”.

[335i54n]

with the noise u say and the compression, get another motor.

[suspect]

Originally Posted by Cenflamark

Ok bought the compression hardware and cylinders 1-5 all at 180. However, Cylinder 6 struggled to get to about 160. I did notice, by the way, a larger build up of carbon on the intake valves of cylinder 6 when I had the manifold off the other day.

What’s my next move?

Did you put some oil in cylinder 6 to try see where the problem might be? Post a video of this sound. Any codes? Did you get a custom tune for your upgraded turbos?

[whyzee125]

That compression wouldn't concern me, especially if that cylinder has a little more carbon. Caked up valves are known to lower compression slightly and that's still basically within 10% of the others. Maybe not 100% ideal, but that's not your issue.

Best bet would be to post a video of the noise. Had you taken any logs recently on that tune?

Was the car cold or warmed up when you got on it?

[tcphoto]

There's no Indy in the Lakeland area? You did a full bolt on or did you have it done? There's little you can do until you start tearing it down and look for damage. I'd look for an Indy and flatbed it to Tampa.

[Cenflamark]

Well, going on 4 maybe 5 months without a working car.. the most recent things I’ve done is actually buy index 12 injectors just to rule out a fuel issue. Changed plugs at same time. Crank but no start. But like a week later.. I changed the oil and filter and suddenly it started! Ran and still runs like shit.. won’t make it to the end of the rioad. When I attempted it I backed out then literally help the pedal almost to the floor just to get it to barely move. Can’t I get a diagnosis from that fact alone? I hooked up code reader and it just continues to give me the circuit A turbo too high message ( map sensor). I’m gonna go out there now and get some sound for y’all to hear. Thank you so much for any help with this seeing as though my BMW dealer won’t take my car because it’s “too old”.

[Cenflamark]

By the way I have not coded the index 12’s yet but I don’t think that would cause it to run this bad

[Podunk]

throwing parts at a car for a driveability issue without addressing the noise issue likely behind the driveability issue is like tossing gas on an already lit fire then grabbing the lighter to ""light" it.

you say cylinder 6 is 20 points lower on compression, you have yet to perform a leakdown test, or run a boroscope in any cylinder. my guess, you went lean on cylinder 6 cause you have a bad MAP, upgraded turbos, and never tuned, and bent the rod, or cracked the piston.

[Cenflamark]

Hello and thank you for your response. You are correct, I have not done a leak down test. I don’t know what it is but.. I shall research and perform said test and get back with this thread. Thanks!

[Podunk]

Originally Posted by Cenflamark

Hello and thank you for your response. You are correct, I have not done a leak down test. I don’t know what it is but.. I shall research and perform said test and get back with this thread. Thanks!

it tells you the percentage of air escaping the cylinder under pressure and requires an air compressor to run/work. it won't tell you EXACTLY what is leaking, but will tell you if there is leakage and a failing cylinder.

for injectors YES you HAVE to code them, otherwise they won't be correct on fuel injection dwell time and can cause very bad issues like cylinder washdown which will also tear rings and bores up. and ruin the sealing between ring and cylinder wall. and if really bad, even cause hydro lock.

you also never mentioned if the car is a manual, DCT, or auto, as that could contribute to assisting in a diagnosis as well as the manuals run a dual mass flywheel, if the springs break, there is excessive noise as well, and off balance rotating mass that can cause running issues. however like i said, i'm more leaning to bent rod/cracked piston.

especially if you stomped on it while cold, you take a risk of fuel vapor getting trapped and igniting on the side of the piston because the engine is direct injection, and as the piston is not meant for side load in the bore. it blows a chunk out of the top of the piston. you also never mentioned when you replaced plugs if there was any signs of damage on any of the plugs like a smashed electrode, or broken porcelain.

so therefore, if you have no access to an air compressor to perform a leakdown test, just get a cheap boroscope from someplace like Harbor Freight, or northern tool remove the spark plug and shove the camera down the hole and take a peak with the piston at BDC of the bore you are looking at.

here is a link to a boroscope: https://www.harborfreight.com/27-in-...era-64623.html

[Cenflamark]

Hey- thank you SOO much for your reply! It was bigtime informative for a novice like me. The car is an automatic. No cracked plugs or porcelain. But there was some carbon build up on them. I do have a borescope but I’ve never stuck it in the spark plug holes before. I will do that at first light. I hope you are wrong about broken rod but I think you’re probably right. I appreciate your insight. The car wasn’t cold when I punched it but that is the point of where it went wrong- like maybe something broke off or something. Runs like crap now for about 2 minutes before conking out. I got like 7-8k in the car and a dealership wants to only offer me between $1500-2000. I REALLY don’t want to sell it but I’m pulling my hair out here. I’ll let you know results of leak down. Thanks!

[lowrydr310]

You said shoe in dryer sound but usually any major internal engine damage would be more of "big chunk of metal in a dryer" sound or loud rhythmic tapping.

Pull the oil filter cap and remove and inspect the oil filter. Were there any metal shavings?

Did you ever upgrade the charge pipe? Before going too crazy with the diagnostics stick with the simple stuff first. Inspect the piping from the turbo outlets to the intercooler, all intercooler connections then from the intercooler to charge pipe and throttle body, and check the intake manifold for cracks.

Also, you mentioned a code for a faulty MAP sensor. You absolutely need a functional Map sensor for the car to run properly (along with properly coded injectors) so maybe it's just that sensor. Perchance.

[Cenflamark]

So…I got the horoscope and removed plugs and shoved. It down there. Cylinders 1, 3, and 6 are clean but 2 and 5 have a lot of carbon buildup

[Cenflamark]

By the way I inspected oil filter. No shavings but oil takes a long time to drain out of filter housing.

[swellengear]

Originally Posted by Cenflamark

So…I got the horoscope and removed plugs and shoved. It down there. Cylinders 1, 3, and 6 are clean but 2 and 5 have a lot of carbon buildup

You know its bad when guys start looking to the stars for guidance.

Post a vid of the noise. But from what you're describing, my bet is on a bent rod.