[xps]

Has anyone installed mid pipe without putting the car on a lift. I am going to attempt it tomorrow, but I am a little worried about the accessibility. Any one has any tips?

[Chi58]

Super easy , you can make your cuts without removing the rear

[Resoelg]

Be safe! Ramps or stands with backups. You know the drill.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Resoelg

Be safe! Ramps or stands with backups. You know the drill.

+1

[mtenhoven]

Originally Posted by Chi58

Super easy , you can make your cuts without removing the rear

Agreed. Same done here.

[xps]

Completed the install.

Jacked the car on the side and placed ramps front and rear on the passenger side. Added 2 2x8s below the wheels for extra clearance.

Since the car is new, removing the nuts were easy, I was getting excited to have already unbolted the exhaust within 5mins.

Then came the hardest part of install. Struggled with the exhaust cutter tool from Amazon. It started cutting through half circumference of the exhaust pipe and wouldn't get the teeths deep enough into the other half.Then gave up and got an electric saw which took 2 mins to cut it through. Regret the time wasted . I would still get the exhaust cutter tool to get a inital clean line for the saw to pass through clean. This should have been done is 15mins max but took 2hrs.

Then the other issue is that the IRL midpipe has clearance issue on one of the four bolts that connect to the cats. This is due to the shape of the mid pipe. No tool I have fit. Took another 15mins getting to hand tight then slowly torqued with a open box wrench 1/8th turn at a time. I am still not very confident about this nut being properly torqued.

I then started connecting the pipes all the way from front to the back, then put the clamps on not too tight so that still allows some wiggling. Then inserted a wedge between the mid pipe and the exhaust brace to give proper clearance and this also helped with the alignment of the pipes. Then tightened the clamps from the back to front.

Another issue is the bolt length on the rear clamps is hardly enough. It is a struggle to have it in place,put 4 different pieces together, apply some clamping force with hand so the nut can be threaded, then tighten. 1/2" extra length would have saved so much effort and time. After using all my strength lying on the floor I got to hand thread through and then used the impact wrench to tighten the rest. Luckily the other 3 clamps have good bolt length.

Impression- The sound is improved but still not loud enough. Now I can hear exhaust from inside the car. The loudness has increased at higher rpms and remains same as stock when cruising.

May be I should get the valve controller next?

Overall the DIY is 5/10 on easy to hard scale

[M_Power Rob]

Originally Posted by xps

Completed the install.

Jacked the car on the side and placed ramps front and rear on the passenger side. Added 2 2x8s below the wheels for extra clearance.

Since the car is new, removing the nuts were easy, I was getting excited to have already unbolted the exhaust within 5mins.

Then came the hardest part of install. Struggled with the exhaust cutter tool from Amazon. It started cutting through half circumference of the exhaust pipe and wouldn't get the teeths deep enough into the other half.Then gave up and got an electric saw which took 2 mins to cut it through. Regret the time wasted . I would still get the exhaust cutter tool to get a inital clean line for the saw to pass through clean. This should have been done is 15mins max but took 2hrs.

Then the other issue is that the IRL midpipe has clearance issue on one of the four bolts that connect to the cats. This is due to the shape of the mid pipe. No tool I have fit. Took another 15mins getting to hand tight then slowly torqued with a open box wrench 1/8th turn at a time. I am still not very confident about this nut being properly torqued.

I then started connecting the pipes all the way from front to the back, then put the clamps on not too tight so that still allows some wiggling. Then inserted a wedge between the mid pipe and the exhaust brace to give proper clearance and this also helped with the alignment of the pipes. Then tightened the clamps from the back to front.

Another issue is the bolt length on the rear clamps is hardly enough. It is a struggle to have it in place,put 4 different pieces together, apply some clamping force with hand so the nut can be threaded, then tighten. 1/2" extra length would have saved so much effort and time. After using all my strength lying on the floor I got to hand thread through and then used the impact wrench to tighten the rest. Luckily the other 3 clamps have good bolt length.

Impression- The sound is improved but still not loud enough. Now I can hear exhaust from inside the car. The loudness has increased at higher rpms and remains same as stock when cruising.

May be I should get the valve controller next?

Overall the DIY is 5/10 on easy to hard scale

Yes, the valve controller is a must.

[JCoR]

Originally Posted by M_Power Rob

Yes, the valve controller is a must.

I just received and installed my valve controller today and completely agree.

[Chi58]

Originally Posted by xps

Completed the install.

Jacked the car on the side and placed ramps front and rear on the passenger side. Added 2 2x8s below the wheels for extra clearance.

Since the car is new, removing the nuts were easy, I was getting excited to have already unbolted the exhaust within 5mins.

Then came the hardest part of install. Struggled with the exhaust cutter tool from Amazon. It started cutting through half circumference of the exhaust pipe and wouldn't get the teeths deep enough into the other half.Then gave up and got an electric saw which took 2 mins to cut it through. Regret the time wasted . I would still get the exhaust cutter tool to get a inital clean line for the saw to pass through clean. This should have been done is 15mins max but took 2hrs.

Then the other issue is that the IRL midpipe has clearance issue on one of the four bolts that connect to the cats. This is due to the shape of the mid pipe. No tool I have fit. Took another 15mins getting to hand tight then slowly torqued with a open box wrench 1/8th turn at a time. I am still not very confident about this nut being properly torqued.

I then started connecting the pipes all the way from front to the back, then put the clamps on not too tight so that still allows some wiggling. Then inserted a wedge between the mid pipe and the exhaust brace to give proper clearance and this also helped with the alignment of the pipes. Then tightened the clamps from the back to front.

Another issue is the bolt length on the rear clamps is hardly enough. It is a struggle to have it in place,put 4 different [...]

You’re probably talking about that bolt, unfortunately they are all the same you’ll need a 13mm stubby to tighten it up. Adding a valve controller is definitely a noticeable change in volume .

[Resoelg]

"May be I should get the valve controller next?"

Valve controller (AWRON) changed my mind about replacing exhaust or adding mid pipe...for now.

Painted coffin muffler while I was adding the controllers. VHT high temp primer and "flameproof"
Flat black paint. Made ass end look much better to my eye .

[JCoR]

Originally Posted by Resoelg

"May be I should get the valve controller next?"

Valve controller (AWRON) changed my mind about replacing exhaust or adding mid pipe...for now.

Painted coffin muffler while I was adding the controllers. VHT high temp primer and "flameproof"
Flat black paint. Made ass end look much better to my eye .

Do you have pics of the painted muffler?

[Resoelg]

Originally Posted by JCoR

Do you have pics of the painted muffler?

Not the best pic but I think you can see the improvement. Much better in person. Easy mod. Worth it IMO.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Resoelg

"May be I should get the valve controller next?"

Valve controller (AWRON) changed my mind about replacing exhaust or adding mid pipe...for now.

Painted coffin muffler while I was adding the controllers. VHT high temp primer and "flameproof"
Flat black paint. Made ass end look much better to my eye .

There is no need for Awron kit to change the sound; the SST will get you the same sound for half the price.

But either way, it won't be close to the sound would get from the midpipe.

You can start with the valve controller but in the vast majority of the cases, people end up upgrading exhaust components for the full sound upgrade.

[Resoelg]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

There is no need for Awron kit to change the sound; the SST will get you the same sound for half the price.

But either way, it won't be close to the sound would get from the midpipe.

You can start with the valve controller but in the vast majority of the cases, people end up upgrading exhaust components for the full sound upgrade.

Needs and wants...very different at times.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Resoelg

Needs and wants...very different at times.

Got it

[mtenhoven]

Originally Posted by Chi58

You’re probably talking about that bolt, unfortunately they are all the same you’ll need a 13mm stubby to tighten it up. Adding a valve controller is definitely a noticeable change in volume .

Agreed. 13mm stubby used here. Seems the best solution with the tool set I own despite having various extensions, swivels, etc. Probably need to confirm torque now that it's been through a few heat cycles.

I also added the SST controller. Can fully control sound now. Loud when I feel like it, milder when I choose. Fully open values at cold start sets off the alarm for my Z4 parked next to the M2 in the garage.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by mtenhoven

I also added the SST controller. Can fully control sound now. Loud when I feel like it, milder when I choose. Fully open values at cold start sets off the alarm for my Z4 parked next to the M2 in the garage.

The SST is a must mod, in my opinion.