[sirdaft1]

Decided to get started on the install of my MMP Stg 3 twins. I'll first off say that it is definitely not a job for the faint of heart!

As we were removing the exhaust manifold studs, one of the studs sheared off in the block with the bolt sticking out 1/2". A buddy and I then spent the next 10 hours (I kid not!!) using every trick in the book to remove that stud (heat, PB Blaster, hammer, vice grips, etc). Does anyone have any experience with removing busted up bolts? This has been INCREDIBLY frustrating as its puts everything else on hold until this is taken care of. Would appreciate hearing any of your comments.

Here's a pic of that PITA stud sticking out (just below that third exhaust port):


Thanks!

[mojobmw_e90]

I used channel locks. The blue ones u buy at home depot. Also used a torch to warm it up, used the yellow can not the blue one as yellow burns hotter, was able to get mine turning and out

Also why not try putting a small socket onto it. Maybe a 7mm or 8mm would fit over it. Even if u have to hammer it go for it

[sirdaft1]

Originally Posted by mojobmw_e90

I used channel locks. The blue ones u buy at home depot. Also used a torch to warm it up, used the yellow can not the blue one as yellow burns hotter, was able to get mine turning and out

Also why not try putting a small socket onto it. Maybe a 7mm or 8mm would fit over it. Even if u have to hammer it go for it

Thanks dude. I wound up picking up a stud remover kit from Amazon, should arrive tomorrow. I plan on soaking the stud in PB overnight (again), hitting it with heat and then use one of these stud removers. Our problem has been that we just can't get enough grip on the stud with either the vice grips or channel locks that we've been using. This thing is REALLY in there. If this doesn't work - assuming we don't break the stud - I have a buddy who said he'd bring over his welder to weld on a nut on Saturday. This has been the hardest part of the turbo install!

[mojobmw_e90]

Originally Posted by sirdaft1

Thanks dude. I wound up picking up a stud remover kit from Amazon, should arrive tomorrow. I plan on soaking the stud in PB overnight (again), hitting it with heat and then use one of these stud removers. Our problem has been that we just can't get enough grip on the stud with either the vice grips or channel locks that we've been using. This thing is REALLY in there. If this doesn't work - assuming we don't break the stud - I have a buddy who said he'd bring over his welder to weld on a nut on Saturday. This has been the hardest part of the turbo install!

I feel you man. After all its been In that hole for 150k!surprised it was only 1 stud and not all 12 lol. Again if u need any help shoot me a text il try my best to help out

[feuer]

If you have a welder just spot weld one nut on it.

[DRock3d]

Originally Posted by sirdaft1

Thanks dude. I wound up picking up a stud remover kit from Amazon, should arrive tomorrow. I plan on soaking the stud in PB overnight (again), hitting it with heat and then use one of these stud removers. Our problem has been that we just can't get enough grip on the stud with either the vice grips or channel locks that we've been using. This thing is REALLY in there. If this doesn't work - assuming we don't break the stud - I have a buddy who said he'd bring over his welder to weld on a nut on Saturday. This has been the hardest part of the turbo install!

Did these work?

[sirdaft1]

Originally Posted by feuer

If you have a welder just spot weld one nut on it.

You my friend were absolutely correct. Mig welded on a nut and she came free.

Originally Posted by DRock3d

Did these work?

Unfortunately these didn't work on this particular stud I had stuck in my engine. I feel like these stud remover sockets may work better on a bolt that still has some thread left. Ours was completely stripped and didn't quite grip good enough. We just used a mig welder and welded on a nut that broke it free.

[sirdaft1]

Here is the stud with welded nut that took 12 hours of my life that I'll never get back

[feuer]

Originally Posted by sirdaft1

Here is the stud with welded nut that took 12 hours of my life that I'll never get back

Oh, but you will now, since your 335i would be considerably faster

[zmon1300]

Turbos on yet? Curious to see these mmp turbos perform. Im local.

[sirdaft1]

Turbos are in the car. My car doesn't like me is all I can say. It has fought me every single step of the way during this process. I thought she'd be buttons up by tonight, but who would have thought that reinstalling the steering rack would have taken almost 3 hours of my day until I finally said 'screw it' and turned in for the night. I won't have time tomorrow but shooting to have her on the ground by Thursday night **fingers crossed**

Here they are after last night...

[SUHleen]

Sweettttt! I can't wait to get mine. What inlets and outlets did you go with? Silicone or the aluminum ones? I've heard from a couple of really good "secret" tuners to steer clear of the silicone ones.

Any problems besides the studs? Like is the steering rack being a PITA because of the turbos being bigger or just being a typical BMW and being difficult?

[9krpmrx8]

What is holding the engine up? Are you using one of those braces that sits on the engine bay? And I feel your pain, I once broke a stud on a brand new engine prior to install.

[sirdaft1]

Originally Posted by SUHleen

Sweettttt! I can't wait to get mine. What inlets and outlets did you go with? Silicone or the aluminum ones? I've heard from a couple of really good "secret" tuners to steer clear of the silicone ones.

Any problems besides the studs? Like is the steering rack being a PITA because of the turbos being bigger or just being a typical BMW and being difficult?

I went with the all silicone inlets and outlets. I'll be applying some reflective heat tape to a couple of the areas on the outlets that sit relatively closely to the exhaust mani as added insurance.

As for the difficulties with the install, its been a few different things:
- The broken stud was a 12 hour detour
- Rear upper coolant hardline needed to be bent for the larger turbo housing to fit. Didn't realize that until I talked to Mauricio over the phone. Once the turbos were in, that same coolant hardline wouldn't seat properly in the rear turbo and it kept cutting the o-ring causing it to leak coolant. With Mauricios help over the phone, we found out that we had to bend the coolant line back down into position to fit properly. Once that happened, it was super easy to put back together. Unfortunately that learning experience took a half a day to figure out and a trip to McMaster Carr for a bunch of turbo O-rings. (if anyone in Chicago needs some turbo line O-rings, shoot me a PM. I have a bunch of them now). Mauricio mentioned that he'll be doing a write-up on the coolant line bending process. It's super easy now that I've done it.
- Now it's the steering rack issue. For the life of me I cannot figure out the problem. The larger turbos have nothing to do with fitment (as they're no where near eachother). I've dropped the rack 2-3 times in the past to access the downpipes and have uninstalled/reinstalled the rack each time with no issues. This time though, it's like having to solve a Rubik's cube while holding a 50lb rack above your face while laying on your back. Someone else chimed in that had a similar issue, and they said that sometimes the steering column splines will sometimes extend out and lock into place, making the rack seemingly impossible to reinstall. I'll be taking a look at that tomorrow.

Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8

What is holding the engine up? Are you using one of those braces that sits on the engine bay? And I feel your pain, I once broke a stud on a brand new engine prior to install.

I used an engine hoist to brace the engine from the topside. There is a bolt mounting point on the front topside of the engine that you can screw a tow hook into. Worked like a charm.

[zmon1300]

Turbos on yet ? How's it feel?

[sirdaft1]

Sorry guys nothing to share yet. I'll just say that the turbo installation process is not for the faint of heart. Sure, some guys brag that they've done the swap in 8 hours start to finish for their first time with nothing more than a flathead screw driver (sarcasm). For those of us I n the real world with families and full-time jobs, we can multiple that by 3-5x!

Will keep you guys updated as things move along

[SUHleen]

I want to see what this thing does on your setup! Get moving man hahaha

[zmon1300]

Update yet??

[Fundguy1]

Happened to the guys at the shop I had mine done at too.

[bmwmike89]

In for updates...heard some not so good news.

[SUHleen]

Originally Posted by bmwmike89

In for updates...heard some not so good news.

???

[sirdaft1]

Originally Posted by bmwmike89

In for updates...heard some not so good news.

Originally Posted by SUHleen

???

Originally Posted by zmon1300

Update yet??

There is an issue with one of the welds on the front turbo that caused quite a bit of drama on a low boost test drive. The car is officially in the hands of a very reputable independent shop who is doing the work going forward. That said, Mauricio has been very communicative through out this process and he's been upstanding in trying to help me get back on the road.

More details in my build thread (post #88)...
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1193260&page=4