[bbnks2]

Update 3/24/20: long-term review is that a few weeks into this and now the car throws a cel almost instantly. See post below. Dme: 2F44 supply circuit code.
Update 4/3/20: I've moved NLS down to 150ms and need to do a lot of "cruising" to get the misfire counters to reset. then I can go back to doing launcehs and NLS. TwistedTuning is working on maybe disabling the 24FF code via tuning as a long-term solution!

Since an N55 specific guide doesn't seem to exist I decided to write up a brief DIY guide on how to install an N2MB WOT Box. I had been anticipating the release of MHD's launch control for N55, but, it doesn't appear to be in the works anymore. So, I scooped up a WOT Box to see what it's all about. Time to make some fun new noises this season!

For those that are unfamiliar, this little box is a piggy-back device that uses crank position data to momentarily cut power to your coils. This interruption is used in a handful of different functions such as "launch-control," No lift shift, and a rev-limiter.

You can learn more about the various features of the WOTBOX here:
http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox

Pin Out:


Installation:
[1]Prepare the engine bay by removing the cowl and electronic box cover


[2]Prepare the WOT Box harness. If you want to be able to remove the wire that run across the engine bay then quick connects are a good idea to use on the WOT Box BLUE, GREEN, and YELLOW wires. The RED and ORANGE wires can be cut short to like 12-24" as they will be connected to the coil power wire right in the electronic box.




[3]Ground the WOT Box to a place of your choice (bare metal chassis). I chose to use the bolt hole for the cowl and it worked out well.


[4]Identify the coil wire coming off the three fuse block in the electronics box. The fuse block should be easily identifiable. It houses a 20A fuse for the coils, a 15A fuse for the Injectors, and a 40A fuse for Valvetronic (yes 40A! hence the yellow electricity sticker on the valve cover lol!)


[5]The coil power wire is one of the RED/GREEN wires that run FROM the 20A fuse TO the DME. Cut the wire. Connect the WOT Box RED wire to the 20A fuse side of the Coil power RED/GREEN wire. Connect the WOT Box Orange wire to the DME side of the RED/GREEN Coil Power wire.




If the WOT Box does not work correctly at this point then you may need to cut all 6 red wires that go to the coil packs and interrupt the 12v signal from there. Just a fair warning to all that this may be necessary. Not all N55's have the same electronic box layout as my 2011 135i. Some show on Newtis.info that only 1 fuse carries power to the DME for BOTH the injectors and coils. Not sure what cars this applies to though!

[6]Move on to the drive side of the vehicle where the N55 DME is located (on the intake manifold)


DME harness identification:


The connectors are numbered. Should be pretty easy and straightforward for you to identify the correct pins/wires once you pull the connector and take a look at it!



[7]On the x6001 DME harness, identify pin 31 which is a BLUE/BROWN wire. This is the Clutch Signal wire. Tap the WOT Box GREEN wire into the BLUE/BROWN DME wire***.


[8]On the x6001 DME harness, identify pin 15 which is a WHITE/YELLOW wire. This is the Accelerator Pedal 2 Signal. Tap the WOT Box BLUE wire into the WHITE/YELLOW DME wire***.


[9]On the x6002 DME harness, identify pin 6 which is a YELLOW wire. This is the Crank Position Sensor Signal. Tap the WOT Box YELLOW wire into the YELLOW DME wire***.


*** I used posi-taps, but, this method is NOT recommended. Best practice would be to cut back the sheathing of the wire by about 1" and wrap your WOT Box wire around it. Then solder the connection solid so it cannot shake loose.

Once you've got the WOT Box all wired up you can move along to the software side of things. I tucked the WOT Box wires into the weather stripping for the cowl. To get the wires to run behind it, I had to notch the rubber a bit. The wires are not visible at all once the cowl is in place:


[10]Grab a laptop and install Version 3.9***** of the WOT Box software. I have been told v4.8 works as well but my RPM signal was reading twice as high using that version, so, I just reverted back to v3.9.


***** The older v3.9 Software can be downloaded here: http://www.npcompleteperformance.com...erfaceV3.9.zip

[11]Set up the initial settings as depicted. The gas pedal should operate in a .35-2.0v range. The clutch should operate within a 0.0-5.0v range. Both should read "up" in their default position. Before testing, enable both launch control and NLS. Set the TPS voltage to something like 1.7-1.9v This will engage these features at slightly less than 100% gas pedal input. Then you can either leave those features enabled or disable them. The gas pedal "up" and "down" status is based on the voltage that you input into these boxes though so it won't read up.down correctly until you fill in those values with 1.7v+. Set the RPM source to "Mazda 3 or 6."

[12]Test the WOT Box!

DIY Video... I was rambling quite a bit as I was working, so, the above steps and pictures might be more useful as a guide whereas the video is informational/contextual:

Will update the video later if I can. Not happy with it at all. Looks fine on my phone but now that it's uploaded to YouTube half of the clips are upside down or an incorrect resolution/aspect ratio... not sure why...

Launch Control:

No Lift Shifting:

Initial Impressions:
Well I have to say, this thing is fun! However, it's not entirely useful. Even a fairly low launch-control settings like 3,100rpms completely blows the tires off. Car builds about 8psi of boost within 1-2s. It's a twin-scroll turbo after-all. Pretty much pulls and builds boost from a dead stop so launching with boost isn't really as necessary as a "big-single." The NLS is fun though and so is the rev-limiter. The artificial rev-limiter can prevent some torque reductions like the 2048 "sift-bog" from occurring (hopefully). Just be careful with how long you sit on the rev limiter. After about 5-6 seconds the car shut itself off. The DME sees the WOT Box operation as misfires and misfires over extended time cause codes. A quick 2-3s on the launch control or rev-limiter does not cause any issues though. Overall, it's a worthwhile little box!

Additional Pin Out data pertaining to 2011 135i (N55), Per NewTis.info:

[Schmidty335i]

You sir are the man!!! I have been waiting for this for years!! I am going to have to look at my wiring before I order though since I have a 335i and the newer dme post Feb 2012 one. Hopefully my pins are the same! Thanks again!

[Schmidty335i]

Just got done checking all my wiring at it looks exactly the same as yours! even the DME pins seem the same. just ordered my WOT Box. hopefully it gets here before this weekend cause i am planning on going to the track on Saturday. iam hoping that when i line up to the tree that when the first stage of lights are ready if i start the 2 step that i wont get any misfire codes... should be under 5 seconds for sure, ill find out though. Thanks again, so awesome!

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by Schmidty335i

Just got done checking all my wiring at it looks exactly the same as yours! even the DME pins seem the same. just ordered my WOT Box. hopefully it gets here before this weekend cause i am planning on going to the track on Saturday. iam hoping that when i line up to the tree that when the first stage of lights are ready if i start the 2 step that i wont get any misfire codes... should be under 5 seconds for sure, ill find out though. Thanks again, so awesome!

Just make sure you have a way to clear codes just in case it does pop a cel.

[Schmidty335i]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

Just make sure you have a way to clear codes just in case it does pop a cel.

Thanks for the heads up i have a JB4 and MHD so i got that covered!

[boostd92]

I wonder how useful this is for big(er) turbo guys. I have a PS2 and should take a little longer to build boost. Does it throw an SES and go into limp mode after 2-3 seconds?

At the track when you're staging, 2 seconds of stutterbox will likely not be enough if you care at all about your reaction time part of the slip. If you're just going for ET it might be. I'd like to see someone video exactly how long it takes to trigger the SES.... that would be a deal break for a lot of us.

Thanks for the install instructions, if this works out, they will be invaluable!

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by boostd92

I wonder how useful this is for big(er) turbo guys. I have a PS2 and should take a little longer to build boost. Does it throw an SES and go into limp mode after 2-3 seconds?

At the track when you're staging, 2 seconds of stutterbox will likely not be enough if you care at all about your reaction time part of the slip. If you're just going for ET it might be. I'd like to see someone video exactly how long it takes to trigger the SES.... that would be a deal break for a lot of us.

Thanks for the install instructions, if this works out, they will be invaluable!

IDK. quite honestly it has not happened at all with launch control. Sometimes I see shadow codes after LC but no CEL (yet). Just when banging off the rev-limiter for too long. DME logic pertaining to misfires can be deleted if you have a custom tune.

I'll post more videos soon and give more feedback as the weather begins to warm up. Other N55's are apparently running them. I just wrote up an install guide... Don't shoot the messenger if it doesn't work for you lol.

[boostd92]

So to be clear, the WOT box makes a rev limiter for launch control and it doesn't cause an SES when banging off that lower rev limit, only when banging off the actual redline rev limit? If so that's awesome and would totally usefull.

Who's banging off the engine redline revlimiter for 3+ seconds on purpose??

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by boostd92

So to be clear, the WOT box makes a rev limiter for launch control and it doesn't cause an SES when banging off that lower rev limit, only when banging off the actual redline rev limit? If so that's awesome and would totally usefull.

Who's banging off the engine redline revlimiter for 3+ seconds on purpose??

People that just want to make noise.

You're asking me to make a definitive statement and I can't. I'll drop a few clips of some launches sometime this week if I can.

[Schmidty335i]

Originally Posted by boostd92

I wonder how useful this is for big(er) turbo guys. I have a PS2 and should take a little longer to build boost. Does it throw an SES and go into limp mode after 2-3 seconds?

At the track when you're staging, 2 seconds of stutterbox will likely not be enough if you care at all about your reaction time part of the slip. If you're just going for ET it might be. I'd like to see someone video exactly how long it takes to trigger the SES.... that would be a deal break for a lot of us.

Thanks for the install instructions, if this works out, they will be invaluable!

I have a PS2 in my car I'll take some logs after my install and post them. I got an email today saying my WOT Box has shipped. So hopefully I'll have it by this weekend!

[N55Jamaican]

[Schmidty335i]

Just installed the WOT Box today! it works exactly how it is suppose to but the car does not like it. even if i only do it for a few seconds the engine will die after letting off the gas. i am going to look into it and see if i can code out the misfires with MHD.

Thanks for the write up! it was super simple to install!

[Schmidty335i]

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by Schmidty335i

It's weird mine sounds nothing like that or any of the other wotbox videos I find. Seems to be way more "rapid fire."

[DiFFv1]

Very True, i advise getting some info from the budgetbimmer guys.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by Schmidty335i

Just installed the WOT Box today! it works exactly how it is suppose to but the car does not like it. even if i only do it for a few seconds the engine will die after letting off the gas. i am going to look into it and see if i can code out the misfires with MHD.

Thanks for the write up! it was super simple to install!

Any chance you've gotten additional info?

I went to grab more videos today. After a few minutes of messing around the car went into limp mode and now almost instantly throws a cel when trying to use any of the wotbox functions. Guess dme learned lol?

Here is some quick NLS before shit went downhill:

Now if I do launch control for more than even 1s the car will shut off and dme will read 2F44 - ignition circuit, supply voltage: bank failure or engine failure

It's not even throwing misfire codes just going straight to throwing the supply voltage code. No idea what changed but I'm a bit disappointed. The NLS was quite nice while it lasted

[Schmidty335i]

You are getting the exact same code as me, i get the 2F44 and also a 2F8B with the same symptoms as you, the car will just shut down after that. no CEL or anything. i had to read the codes with MHD right after it shuts down cause if i try to start it it just cranks. turn off the ignition and turn it back on codes go away and it starts like normal.

I was talking with a tuner and was informed that the codes could be bypassed with MHD. so i got my BEF opened it in tunerpro and found all the codes that are written in to be bypassed already... seems pretty straight forward only thing i am having trouble with is the HEX address that needs to be assigned for those specific codes that are popping. i am looking into that further, if i figure it out and it works or not ill let you know. cause i want this to work flawlessly so bad!!

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by Schmidty335i

You are getting the exact same code as me, i get the 2F44 and also a 2F8B with the same symptoms as you, the car will just shut down after that. no CEL or anything. i had to read the codes with MHD right after it shuts down cause if i try to start it it just cranks. turn off the ignition and turn it back on codes go away and it starts like normal.

I was talking with a tuner and was informed that the codes could be bypassed with MHD. so i got my BEF opened it in tunerpro and found all the codes that are written in to be bypassed already... seems pretty straight forward only thing i am having trouble with is the HEX address that needs to be assigned for those specific codes that are popping. i am looking into that further, if i figure it out and it works or not ill let you know. cause i want this to work flawlessly so bad!!

Yeah I was pretty disappointed. It was working fine and then next day nothing works. Cant even NLS 1 time car now as the car instantly shuts down. N2MB of course is still saying they have plenty of n55 users running the device and it must be my tune

I reached out to twisted tuning who did my custom tune and havent heard back yet. Hopefully the logic can be suppressed. Great device but I guess it doesnt really work on any car without disabling all the misfire logic.

[bbnks2]

Edit: set NLS from 300 down to 200ms EDIT: now at 150ms. No dme code now for the NLS. It worked great all day today. No loud pop with the faster setting but I could care less about that. Car was shifting smooth with the ignition cut.

https://datazap.me/u/banks334/47f-e3...og=0&data=4-16

I also tried setting launch control to 4000 rpms on N2MB's advice but it still instantly throws limp mode. No good on that.

I did bang off the rev limiter during a few 1-2 shifts and that seems to work well for that quick second it may happen (set to 6800). Much better than hitting the cars soft limiter.

If nls and the rev limiter stay working then I cant complain too much. Launch control was always kind of useless concept in this car without significant torque reduction logic to go along with it. Maybe when its 90f outside I might be able to launc it harder but today was 47f outside and I was lighting up the tires just feathering the clutch.

[boostd92]

Launch control is the primary function I'd be interested in

When you spend a crowded day at the dragstrip and only get 4 runs in, it's a huge disappointment if you mess up the launch on most of them - on my previous cars, I usually only need 1-2 runs to get it dialed in for that track and then near perfect launches the rest of the day (sub 2.0's on street tires).

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by boostd92

Launch control is the primary function I'd be interested in

When you spend a crowded day at the dragstrip and only get 4 runs in, it's a huge disappointment if you mess up the launch on most of them - on my previous cars, I usually only need 1-2 runs to get it dialed in for that track and then near perfect launches the rest of the day (sub 2.0's on street tires)

Well my comments about launch control are more in regard to the torque. I guess if I reduce 1st gear with MHD load-by-gear I'd be able to launch it better.

I have been doing a lot of highway cruising to just get out of the house. That seems to reset the DME "event history" and the wotbox works again for quite a while. I hit up an empty parking lot after cruising out to the beach and was able to do 10+ launches and a bunch of 1-2 NLS. No misfire codes or CEL. Wotbox worked great. NLS set to 150ms.

So, if you trailer the car to an event this won't help but if you drive to an event then it's likely you'll be able to get quite a few passes in before DME see "x misfires in y time" and throws codes again.

I was launching on the street yesterday (54f outside) at 3,000 rpm and ~8psi of boost off the line and I get 0 traction lol. Instant spin.
Tomorrow will be nice again. I'll go for a cruise and try launch control again at say 2,400 rpm. That is usually a good spot for me on colder autocross days. On a nice hot 90f+ day I can see being able to launch at closer to 3,000 when the tires actually hook up a bit even on shitty pavement.

[boostd92]

^good info, thanks for that.

Plus, I don't have to sit on the launch control long at the track - I don't care about RT's (they don't affect your ET), so I can nail the throttle and as soon as boost stops building let out the clutch. That should cut down on cumulative misfire counts, i would assume.

Of course, with my PS2 I'll probably have to launch at a higher RPM - it's noticeably laggier than a stock turbo