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      08-09-2021, 05:24 AM   #1
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Bootlid cable sleeve replacement easy?

Like the title says, how easy/hard is it to replace the rubber sleeve that covers the cables going into the boot-lid? Mine split and I think water gets in when it rains hard.
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      08-24-2021, 01:08 PM   #2
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Bump.

Any one?

I replaced the boot lid today and was hoping to replace that rubber sleeve too but wasn't able too. The plugs on the cable ends are too big to go through the sleeve.

How is it supposed to be done? Could there be a connection somewhere inside the rear wing where those cables go that would allow me to disconnect the whole bunch and is small enough for the sleeve to go over it? Or do I need to remove all connectors from the ends of the cables and fit them back on after?
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      08-24-2021, 06:29 PM   #3
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If forced to do that task myself I'd be inclined to identify all the colours running through the sleeve, purchase a foot of each colour. Then having split the current wires in the middle of the bunch/sleeve run all the new cable jumper lengths through the new sleeve. At this point its a matter of soldering up and heat shrinking the cables at either side. When the new sleeve is pushed into place the joined cables get pushed into the voids either side. This way the opening and closing is working against new flexible wire and not stiff joins. The only other option is to trace every wire, lable it somehow and remove from whatever connector it's in. Then feed through the new sleeve and reclip/insert/plug back into correct termination point. Both will be a fiddly job and dependant on the termination of the cable still need some soldering if doing option 2.

Hope that makes sense.
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      08-25-2021, 12:04 PM   #4
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Try a google search. I'm sure I've seen a 'how to' for that job, either on this forum or on YouTube...
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      08-25-2021, 01:28 PM   #5
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More expensive options are available and I’m sure there’s cheaper pre made out there. But to do this yourself is still the cheapest option.

Repair kit/sleeve

Obviously you’ll need to edit the car settings to the correct variant, I just put some basic E90 info in.
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      08-25-2021, 04:00 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwilalex View Post
More expensive options are available and I’m sure there’s cheaper pre made out there. But to do this yourself is still the cheapest option.

Repair kit/sleeve

Obviously you’ll need to edit the car settings to the correct variant, I just put some basic E90 info in.
That looks like it replaces the section of wires that flexes. Would still work for me but probably not needed, my wires are not broken yet. Probably will as soon as I replace the sleeve without replacing the wires.
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      08-25-2021, 04:05 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwilalex View Post
If forced to do that task myself I'd be inclined to identify all the colours running through the sleeve, purchase a foot of each colour. Then having split the current wires in the middle of the bunch/sleeve run all the new cable jumper lengths through the new sleeve. At this point its a matter of soldering up and heat shrinking the cables at either side. When the new sleeve is pushed into place the joined cables get pushed into the voids either side. This way the opening and closing is working against new flexible wire and not stiff joins. The only other option is to trace every wire, lable it somehow and remove from whatever connector it's in. Then feed through the new sleeve and reclip/insert/plug back into correct termination point. Both will be a fiddly job and dependant on the termination of the cable still need some soldering if doing option 2.

Hope that makes sense.
What if I just cut the wires inside the boot lid? I could replaces the sleeve and then solder the wires. And shrinkwrap. They shouldn't be flexing inside the boot lid. That way I have less soldering and don't have to buy new wires. Just need to buy a wireless soldering iron and learn how to solder.
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      08-25-2021, 06:40 PM   #8
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Personally I think it’s easier to cut the wires in the middle of the old sleeve then add the new sections of wire already inside the new sleeve poking out each side a good few inches; the joins of which end up either side of the sleeve and tucked away in boot lid and rear bodywork. That way the only thing your removing and replacing (soldering of new sections of wire aside) is the sleeve its-self. If you don’t like soldering you could use crimps, same detail for hiding the joins applies.
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      08-26-2021, 08:30 AM   #9
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After watching a video I decided to just pull the wires out from the boot-lid, cut them a few inches inside the boot-lid (after marking them), butt crimp them and push them back in. Bought 0.5-1.5mm2 butt crimps from Screw Fix as they were the smallest. Already have a basic crimping/wire stripping tool. But some of those wires are so thin.... those butt crimp connectors look way too big for them. Should I solder instead? Or are there butt crimps for thin wires?
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      08-26-2021, 10:42 AM   #10
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Best practice I've been told is a soldered joint wrapped in heat shrink tubing.
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      08-26-2021, 10:56 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil325i View Post
Best practice I've been told is a soldered joint wrapped in heat shrink tubing.
I think it might be.

But I have 2 problems, I never soldered and there is no electricity where I work on my car. I'll watch a soldering video and then I will have to think of someone I know who would let me borrow their drive way.
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      08-26-2021, 02:59 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tadaska View Post
I think it might be.

But I have 2 problems, I never soldered and there is no electricity where I work on my car. I'll watch a soldering video and then I will have to think of someone I know who would let me borrow their drive way.
I was contemplating something similar, I've had a few issues with the wires running through that grommet causing my boot to think it's open (or it was opening itself) reverse sensor as well i think? When doing my reverse camera I was going to put it through the grommet but its not possible so I was going to cut every wire and put crimp connections at both ends with enough length of wire to push the crimps back into the boot and into the boot lid. It would be so much easier in the future to diagnose and replace a stretch of wire.
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      08-27-2021, 07:53 AM   #13
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It's done. I did a terrible job at soldering. As a result shrink wrapping was a fail on some of the joints. Ended up using a generous amount of insulating tape over every joint. Not perfect but it's worked.

Last edited by tadaska; 08-27-2021 at 01:50 PM..
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