[Asymmetric3]

I was bringing my daughter home from summer camp yesterday, when these warnings began popping up several times! My daughter was singing gleefully when she realized the repeated chimes were interrupting her song. “Daddy, what is that noise? Do you need to stop for gas again?” I couldn’t answer her because I was too busy staring at the instrument cluster gripped with fear!
https://youtube.com/shorts/2Bq0SxtH9...vbNsXh6aGi1Vd1

Every time the errors appeared, it was like a violent attack on my psyche! Between the warnings and the gauge arms bouncing, all I could do was hope that the car wouldn’t die on me. It never did. Even after driving for another 10 minutes.

I have a laundry list of maintenance issues that I need to work on with this car. But, nothing that prevents drivability. This particular issue is enough to make me want to sign a wild loan just to get back into something newer and more reliable. I had a feeling the car might not make it through this next Texas summer. But, I’m always filled with hope when I see BMWs that are older than mine and still on the road.

I’m sure this has been seen before. Can anyone tell me what the usual culprit is for these warnings?

2011 328i auto
165k+
Other current electrical issues: possible bad CAS - intermittent start issue with rapid relay chatter in fuse box.

[oVeRdOsE.]

Possible causes

1- engine ground (there's 2)
2- Power distribution box
3- battery dying
4- B+ terminal (there was a recall on that on earlier model)
5- major electrical issue you dont want.

[Mike K]

Check your RDC tire pressure monitor unit which made my 2011 328i do the same thing. Water got in on the connections. For my e91 the RDC is in the right rear aft wheel well. Pulling and taping it off to keep water out solved it. You can also just pull the RDC out and you’ll get tire pressure communication error but other it may be drivable.

[BRG_N54]

My money is on bad voltage regulator. Only about $50US from FCP for the Bosch part. Easy to swap off the back of the alternator, just make sure to remove both battery cables when doing the repair.

[eljay]

Start simple: test battery, test alternator and charging function.

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by Mike K

Check your RDC tire pressure monitor unit which made my 2011 328i do the same thing. Water got in on the connections. For my e91 the RDC is in the right rear aft wheel well. Pulling and taping it off to keep water out solved it. You can also just pull the RDC out and you’ll get tire pressure communication error but other it may be drivable.

Perfect time to code out TPMS and add FTM while you're there!

[Asymmetric3]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

Possible causes

1- engine ground (there's 2)
2- Power distribution box
3- battery dying
4- B+ terminal (there was a recall on that on earlier model)
5- major electrical issue you dont want.

1. I have replaced the one in the engine bay. I know there's another under the car. I'll try to replace that one soon.

2. Do you mean the little black box connected the (neg) battery terminal? or, the fuse panel behind the glovebox?

3. I hope not! It's only 3 years old! It tested fine just last year.

4. I do believe I already had that done at the dealership shortly after I bought the car.

5. No. I don't want!

[Asymmetric3]

Originally Posted by Mike K

Check your RDC tire pressure monitor unit which made my 2011 328i do the same thing. Water got in on the connections. For my e91 the RDC is in the right rear aft wheel well. Pulling and taping it off to keep water out solved it. You can also just pull the RDC out and you’ll get tire pressure communication error but other it may be drivable.

Seems random. But, worth looking into.

[Asymmetric3]

Originally Posted by BRG_N54

My money is on bad voltage regulator. Only about $50US from FCP for the Bosch part. Easy to swap off the back of the alternator, just make sure to remove both battery cables when doing the repair.

I'm thinking a bad VR would completely shut the vehicle down. I remember when the brushes wore out in my old Integra's VR, the car just quit on the highway. Since you're putting money on it tho, I'll research this possibility further.

[Asymmetric3]

Originally Posted by eljay

Start simple: test battery, test alternator and charging function.

I had the battery tested about a year ago. It was 2 years old at the time and it tested perfect. I'll run a voltage check on the alternator's output next.

[Asymmetric3]

Originally Posted by Mike K

Check your RDC tire pressure monitor unit which made my 2011 328i do the same thing. Water got in on the connections. For my e91 the RDC is in the right rear aft wheel well. Pulling and taping it off to keep water out solved it. You can also just pull the RDC out and you’ll get tire pressure communication error but other it may be drivable.

Perfect time to code out TPMS and add FTM while you're there!

What coding app would you recommend?

[GnarlE9x]

+1 on aging battery or water in trunk at worst. I've seen several e92's kill amps from a leaking taillight.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Asymmetric3

... Can anyone tell me what the usual culprit is for these warnings? 2011 328i auto; Other current electrical issues: possible bad CAS - intermittent start issue with rapid relay chatter in fuse box.

Maybe your FAULT CODES would be a good "Starting Point" for DIAGNOSIS? Funny how MOST of them relate to the CAS Module, which activates KL15 (Ignition Relay), KL30G (Accessory Relay), KL50 Start Solenoid Activation. SAME for Hall Sensors.

KL15 & KL30G relays are on/in the JB (Junction Box) Fuse Panel. If you sometimes hear "Relay Chatter"/Clicking coming from under the Glovebox, particularly when pressing START Button, THAT is a Clue.

Questions:
1) What are Last-7 Characters of your VIN?
2) Is the Creator 310+ Scan Tool shown in your photos your only Scan Tool? Do you have the Manual for Scan Tool?
3) Any diagnostic software such as INPA/ISTA?
4) If you have either INPA or ISTA, I can tell you HOW to diagnose the issue. If you have Creator 310+, need to know how many pages in the Manual?
5) Can your Scan Tool display "Freeze Frame Data" -- a Snapshot of system conditions at moment Fault Code saved? Think of it as "Fault Details" that offer "Clues" to nature of Fault.
6) Can your Scan Tool display "Live Data"? Such as CAS Module "Terminal Status"? INPA/ISTA can display "Terminal Voltage" at each stage of Key insertion, Ignition ON, Starter Solenoid Activation. That is FIRST Step in Diagnosing any CAS issue, & YOU have CAS ISSUES.
7) When "intermittent start issue" occurs, does Starter Crank/Turn engine? How many places does Clicking come from: CAS, JB Panel, Starter Solenoid?
8) Do you have a Multimeter, & know how to measure DC Volts? Continuity (Ohms)?

DON'T STRESS -- DIAGNOSE. We can help & suggest Next Steps if you answer questions above.
George

[jsunma]

Originally Posted by Asymmetric3

3. I hope not! It's only 3 years old! It tested fine just last year.

Well, that's about the time that the battery might go. I'd address that and go from there.

"Last year". Well, when a battery (assuming you got the right one, which is a whole other box of fish) might last between 3 to 5 years, "last year" could be 20+% of the battery's life.

[Asymmetric3]

Originally Posted by Asymmetric3

3. I hope not! It's only 3 years old! It tested fine just last year.

Well, that's about the time that the battery might go. I'd address that and go from there.

"Last year". Well, when a battery (assuming you got the right one, which is a whole other box of fish) might last between 3 to 5 years, "last year" could be 20+% of the battery's life.

UPDATE:
My battery died yesterday night. I had the local parts store test and charge it for 24 hours. The CCA never went above 100 when it should have restored to 900.

I took the battery back to Walmart and had it replaced under warranty. I installed it and the car cranked immediately with no relay chatter or flickering lights. I turned it off and restarted it a few times with no issues. Now, I’m beginning to believe that the slowly dying battery was the cause of ALL of the electrical gremlins over the past year. I’m still a bit skeptical and I want to replace the voltage regulator and all of the old ground straps.

Thanks for everyone’s input! I’m going to register the new battery (probably w/ Carly or another simple app), and continue to monitor the electronics. I don’t even want to hook up my sub until the coast is clear!

[Mike K]

Regulator swap and ground straps integrity are good reliability items now that your battery is straightened out.

[jsunma]

Glad you made some progress on figuring out the issues.

As you're in the process of finding out, these cars are quite particular about their batteries...and more to the point, can generate a ton of rather confusing errors when the car's not happy with the battery for one reason or another. You speak of going to Walmart for a battery...now, I'm not going to say that it would be impossible to get a proper battery for the car at Walmart, but you really need to be sure that you have something that meets the original specs, otherwise, you are likely to have continuing issues.

Personally, I've always had luck going with the OEM battery purchased from the dealer. In fact, it's just about the only part that I regularly recommend going to the dealer to purchase. For my 2008, I can purchase a BMW battery exactly the same as what the car came with for around $150, and it always works. I tend to get about 5 years on a battery. Also, by doing this, the only "coding" I need to do is to tell the car that I've installed a new battery (as the rest of the specs are the same as what came out of the car and hence no coding for type, etc. is required).

So, if you continue to experience any electrical weirdness, you will probably want to make sure that whoever put in that Walmart battery to begin with installed one that was what the car actually needed (and not just one that someone at Walmart said would fit).

Good luck!

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Asymmetric3

... UPDATE:
My battery died yesterday night. I had the local parts store test and charge it for 24 hours. The CCA never went above 100 when it should have restored to 900. I took the battery back to Walmart and had it replaced under warranty. I installed it and the car cranked immediately with no relay chatter or flickering lights. I turned it off and restarted it a few times with no issues. Now, I’m beginning to believe that the slowly dying battery was the cause of ALL of the electrical gremlins over the past year...

I do NOT see any report of ANY Voltage Measurement ($10 Multimeter) in your posts. If you want to "believe" the battery caused all the faults and warnings you displayed in Post #1, that's YOUR prerogative. Just curious:
What was the battery type, case size & Ah rating of the Walmart battery that you Returned as failed? What was its purchase date? Were you given a Like-Kind Replacement at NO charge?
George

[Asymmetric3]

Originally Posted by Mike K

Regulator swap and ground straps integrity are good reliability items now that your battery is straightened out.

I agree! I have been watching the voltometer in the instrument cluster. The charging voltage remains steady at 13.5 to 13.7 but never reaches 14+ volts as I would expect. In fact, the voltage dips below 13 volts for a sec or two with every misfire. I replaced the coil packs for the problem cylinders( 1 and 2) but the misfires continue. It may be time for a full set of spark plugs.

[Asymmetric3]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

I do NOT see any report of ANY Voltage Measurement ($10 Multimeter) in your posts. If you want to "believe" the battery caused all the faults and warnings you displayed in Post #1, that's YOUR prerogative. Just curious:
What was the battery type, case size & Ah rating of the Walmart battery that you Returned as failed? What was its purchase date? Were you given a Like-Kind Replacement at NO charge?
George

I guess I didn't complete my explanation. I believed that the battery was the reason for most of the worsening electrical issues(including a fried FRM module last year) until it finally died. Once I installed the new battery, the majority of those issues were resolved. However, I do suspect that other factors played a part in the battery's early demise.

My first suspicion is a possible aging voltage regulator. I have been monitoring the charging voltage via the instrument cluster menu(screen 9) while driving. The voltage fluctuates slightly between 13.5V and 13.7V with quick 1V drops following intermittent misfires which I'm currently addressing. The fact the the voltage never reaches 14V is worrisome to me.

My second suspicion is a combination of both the battery quality(non-oem or bosch) and NOT registering it after installation. My opinion of the aftermarket battery that I chose is not a bad one. But, I feel like most OEM parts tend to work better and last longer. The price difference is not drastic. I have been buying the aftermarket batteries more as matter of convenience. (i.e. the battery dies at night or early morning.. I need to get to work on time and the best compatible option is nearby and readily available.)

Attached is the exact battery that I had replaced free under the 3-year warranty. The previous battery was a replacement for one that died just outside of the warranty. So I'm getting an average of 3 years out of each battery. I'm beginning to wonder if not registering them is a contributing factor. I will definitely be registering the new battery very soon. I have a compatible bluetooth adapter that's been in my glovebox forever. So, I'm most likely going to download Carly for the job.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Asymmetric3

... The charging voltage remains steady at 13.5 to 13.7 but never reaches 14+ volts as I would expect. In fact, the voltage dips below 13 volts for a sec or two with every misfire. I replaced the coil packs for the problem cylinders( 1 and 2) but the misfires continue. It may be time for a full set of spark plugs.

Bentley Manual says with Engine Running, System Voltage should be in range: 13.5V to 14.5V. My N52K has always been in 14.0V to 15.0V range, per INPA/ISTA readouts.

I'm NOT sure what you mean "with every misfire". Are you actually getting "Misfire" codes (P0301 - P0306), or are you just feeling RPM decrease? "Misfire" is when ONE cylinder develops LESS power on "Power Stroke" than that of cylinder Before/After it in Firing Order, resulting in measurable (by Crankshaft Sensor) slowing on that "Power Stroke". A condition that results in lack of Ignition/Power on ALL cylinders for an instant is DIFFERENT, and ususally does NOT set a "misfire" Fault Code.

ANY intermittent Interruption of Voltage Supply, either from a Loose Connection in Supply (B+) or Loose/ Failing Ground, CAN result in momentary loss of Ignition (or even DME Voltage Supply), with RPM decrease, & System Voltage decrease. If you are viewing system voltage on Instrument Cluster, using Hidden Menu 9.00, then you are likely seeing same Voltage the DME is getting from the DME Main Relay, KL87. Of course, loose DME Ground at the Nut at X6454 (On Left Strut Tower, next to Washer Filler Tube), could ALSO cause "Interruption".

My SWAG on info to date is that you have a LOOSE or Corroded connection SOMEWHERE which appears to ALWAYS cause System Voltage to be LESS than it SHOULD be, and intermittently causes RPM drop (?) with further reduction (below 13.0V?) in system voltage. That COULD be due to:
1) Loose Battery Terminals (10mm nuts on T-Bolts) either B+ or Ground;
2) Loose 13mm Nuts (under "flip-up" covers) on Rear Power Distribution Panel (RPDP) on top of battery.
3) Loose Ground Cable to Chassis at battery;
4) Loose/ Rusted/ Corroded "Transfer Points" in front of battery base;
5) Loose Ground elsewhere (e.g. X6454);
6) Loose B+ Supply Connection to DME.

Since you first reported MULTIPLE CAS faults, and since CAS Activates the KL15 (Ignition) & KL30G (Accessory) Relays, there may also be issues in CAS Voltage Supply/ Ground, or in wiring from CAS to JB Panel to activate those relays. Still hearing any Relay Chatter from JB area?

Suggested TESTS:
1) I would BEGIN with careful measurement of Alternator output, measured at the LARGE Red B+ Cable connection to Alternator, with engine running. If that voltage value is > Voltage measured at Jumpstart Terminals under hood, or at Battery posts in boot, that is significant clue.

2) Check that X6454 Nut (4 Brown wires from DME) is Snug.

3) If able, record & Post ALL FF Data related to EACH CAS or DME Fault now present. Clear those Codes; Run Engine until: RPM/Voltage "anomaly" recurs. Turn Engine OFF, Turn Ignition back ON & Record/ Post ALL CAS & DME Fault Codes & FF Data.

4) Responding to questions in Post #13 "Wouldn't Hurt".

Those tests will allow us to suggest "Next Steps".
George

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Asymmetric3

... Attached is the exact battery that I had replaced free under the 3-year warranty. The previous battery was a replacement for one that died just outside of the warranty. So I'm getting an average of 3 years out of each battery.
I'm beginning to wonder if not registering them is a contributing factor. I will definitely be registering the new battery very soon. I have a compatible bluetooth adapter that's been in my glovebox forever. So, I'm most likely going to download Carly for the job.

I bought a Walmart H8 Everstart Maxx battery nearly 5 years ago when price was $120 (NOW $160). Installed it (carefully) myself. Used INPA to determine that Battery (A) TYPE was "FLA" (NOT AGM) & (B) Capacity setting was 90 Ah. Those are Correct Settings for SAME battery you show in photo. NEVER had any issue with it. BMW does NOT make batteries.

First thing I would do (other than issues addressed in my prior post ;-) is to view "PM" or Power Managment settings in DME using Proper Scan Tool, and SEE what your current setting for Battery Type & Capacity is. If your setting is AGM instead of "FLA" (Flooded Lead Acid), THAT could cause reduced battery life. Same for different Capacity, such as 70 Ah, instead of 90 Ah for H8 battery.

All "Battery Registration" does:
1) It enters current Odometer reading into a Text Field so Tech knows Mileage/Km at which "Last Battery Replacement" occurred. That has NO effect on HOW your battery is charged.

2) Some Tools also "Reset Histogram" when "Battery Registration" occurs. That simply means that the historical record of Battery SoC or SoH (State of Charge/ State of Health) & Battery Temperature historical data is DELETED, so you ONLY see new data for NEW battery. ONLY the "Last 5 days (tagen) data is used by DME to control Charge Profile. Once again, NO effect on how NEW battery is charged, at least after 5 days when that "5-tagen" data is over-written.

So failure to "Register" new battery has NO meaningful effect on HOW it is charged.

WHAT DOES affect Battery Charging/Service Life: Setting in CAS Module (VIEWED in "DME Power Module") for Battery Type/ Capacity. Do you have a Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software (INPA) that allows you to view that setting? In INPA, you can see that as: INPA > DME (Engine | MSV80 (N51/N52) > F5 Status > F5 Power Management > F3 PM InfoField 2. INPA CANNOT change that setting, ONLY Display current setting.

If you provide Make/Model of any Scan Tool available, perhaps someone who is familiar with its function can indicate if it is ABLE to either (1) VIEW current Battery Type/Capacity setting, or (2) CHANGE the current Setting. MANY tools can't do (1), and MOST can't do 2. BMW Standard Tools, NCSExpert CAN.
George