N55 valvetronic system no movement identified

witty · 05-18-2021, 11:14 PM

Long story short
I don't know if this has to do with anything but it might:
Driving around in sport (I have mhd stage2+) and was going to the mall, when as I was finding parking, I found one and parked. Weirdly enough, my shift release wasn't releasing which only let me go into neutral drive/sport. This was very weird since I backed out of my parking spot about 30-40 minutes ago and it was working fine. Took my car in to a shop and my battery then died because I couldn't take my keys off my ignition (car still in neutral). Jumped my battery and then me and my mechanic fixed the issue by removing the shift knob which awkwardly made it so I could shift into park and it started to work again. Now, this is the current issue I have: When I fixed the issue, I tried to start my car and it wouldn't start, It would crank, and I can smell gas and hear everything is working, but it won't start. I reflashed the tune (thinking it was the tune) but it didn't help. Checked all the fuses behind the glovebox and everything seemed to be working except my fuse for my seats (already knew that). I checked via MHD app and the error code i get is 2DCF: valvetronic system no movement identified. I searched all over the web, and the only conclusion I have came up with is that when the battery died, the car "forgot". Before this issue, I had no issues with the car starting at all or having any issues (sometimes HPFP, but that was only during cold days). I have no clue whats going on (not even my mechanic (doesn't work on bmws)) Do you guys think I might just have to do a relearn? Fix the Valvetronic servomotor?

hassmaschine · 05-19-2021, 04:37 PM

Valvetronic is powered straight from the battery. You said the battery died - could it be that it's not making enough power? what voltage do you get with the car off?

witty · 05-19-2021, 04:55 PM

We’ve hooked up the battery to a battery booster thinking it might have been the battery but it would only crank as well. I do soemtimes get low battery voltage on my screen, but only when i don’t have my car turned on. the battery is a diehard platinum and the battery is probably like 2-3 years old(based off carfax). Although the battery only would charge to 12V MAX.

witty · 05-20-2021, 07:07 PM

anybody got any idea? Replaced the battery (since it was old already) but fault code still there and the only fault code is 2DCF: valvetronic system no movement identified. Does anyone know if it is because I need the motor to relearn?

lowrydr310 · 05-20-2021, 11:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by awesu

anybody got any idea? Replaced the battery (since it was old already) but fault code still there and the only fault code is 2DCF: valvetronic system no movement identified. Does anyone know if it is because I need the motor to relearn?

Stupid question but did you clear the codes, and that same code came back even after replacing the battery?

The eccentric shaft sensor is what reads the position of the eccentric shaft, which gets rotated by the valvetronic motor. A faulty eccentric shaft sensor could possibly be the cause of "no movement identified" though I don't know for sure. The easiest way to check would be to disconnect the plug for the eccentric shaft sensor and see if you have oil on the pins. If there's oil, the sensor is likely bad. But no oil doesn't mean the sensor is still good. Mine failed around 135K miles and 15 years, connector was dry. The car would start then immediately shut off, or sometimes struggle to stay running, and I only had a code for the valvetronic motor and not the sensor itself.

witty · 05-21-2021, 12:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

Stupid question but did you clear the codes, and that same code came back even after replacing the battery?

The eccentric shaft sensor is what reads the position of the eccentric shaft, which gets rotated by the valvetronic motor. A faulty eccentric shaft sensor could possibly be the cause of "no movement identified" though I don't know for sure. The easiest way to check would be to disconnect the plug for the eccentric shaft sensor and see if you have oil on the pins. If there's oil, the sensor is likely bad. But no oil doesn't mean the sensor is still good. Mine failed around 135K miles and 15 years, connector was dry. The car would start then immediately shut off, or sometimes struggle to stay running, and I only had a code for the valvetronic motor and not the sensor itself.

Yeah, I've cleared the codes with MHD, and it would still pop up. I'm at 110k miles and 9 years (2nd owner) so I have no clue if they changed up the sensor (they did the valve cover gasket recently). This error code only occurred as soon as the battery died (never had any issues with valvetronic before, although, during cold starts, when revved after about 5 minutes to about 1500 RPM, I do hear some low frequency knocking sound and that sound disappears after car warms up around 160F. May also be my leaky shock idk) For me my car sputters . It tries to start but it cannot. I can smell gas from the exhaust and I can hear it working, but it sputters and doesn't start. Furthrmore, the valvetronic resetting method with the gas pedal didn't yield any help, did not hear anything from the engine at all. Ive came to the conclusion that it might be a valvetronic motor, or I need to relearn it via ista. Towing it to a indy shop tomorrow will see what they say! To make things worse, I also have a bad OBD port (its like a old iPhone charger, you gotta man jangle it to work and if it falls all connection is lost) which doesn't help when I'm trying to scan for issues.

lowrydr310 · 05-21-2021, 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by awesu

my car sputters . It tries to start but it cannot. I can smell gas from the exhaust and I can hear it working, but it sputters and doesn't start. Furthrmore, the valvetronic resetting method with the gas pedal didn't yield any help, did not hear anything from the engine at all. Ive came to the conclusion that it might be a valvetronic motor, or I need to relearn it via ista. Towing it to a indy shop tomorrow will see what they say! To make things worse, I also have a bad OBD port (its like a old iPhone charger, you gotta man jangle it to work and if it falls all connection is lost) which doesn't help when I'm trying to scan for issues.

If you didn't mess with the motor at all there shouldn't be any relearn needed. I've even removed the valveteonix motors on two cars and haven't had to do a relearn. I'm fairly certain the car cycles the motor when you turn the ignition on and it learns the limit stops.

Before going to an Indy, check that eccentric shaft sensor. You have to remove the cosmetic plastic over over the engine, and it's a plastic connector going into the valve cover toward the front of the engine. If you see oil on the connector it's likely a bad sensor. While it's disconnected try starting your car. These cars default to the throttle plate whem that's disconnected, so if that car starts and runs with that disconnected it's likely a bad ESS.

witty · 05-21-2021, 12:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

If you didn't mess with the motor at all there shouldn't be any relearn needed. I've even removed the valveteonix motors on two cars and haven't had to do a relearn. I'm fairly certain the car cycles the motor when you turn the ignition on and it learns the limit stops.

Before going to an Indy, check that eccentric shaft sensor. You have to remove the cosmetic plastic over over the engine, and it's a plastic connector going into the valve cover toward the front of the engine. If you see oil on the connector it's likely a bad sensor. While it's disconnected try starting your car. These cars default to the throttle plate whem that's disconnected, so if that car starts and runs with that disconnected it's likely a bad ESS.

I don’t see that in my N55 engine are you able to send me a photo?

TunafishE93 · 05-21-2021, 04:45 AM

The n55 doesnt have the sensor stated above. The n55 unit is inbetween 2 and 3 plugs as seen red circle in picture (blue circle is where other engines have the sensor stated above).

Fuse to check...fuse 4 in picture

Fuses is Valvetronic related.

witty · 05-21-2021, 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TunafishE93

The n55 doesnt have the sensor stated above. The n55 unit is inbetween 2 and 3 plugs as seen red circle in picture (blue circle is where other engines have the sensor stated above).

Couple of fuses to check...first is fuse 4 in picture

Then if that doesnt fix it fuse 6 in picture

Both those fuses are Valvetronic related.

I don't see the images, but i've checked the valvetronic connector and it was free of oil. The fuses at the glovebox i've checked and they all are OK. same goes for the fuses on the passenger engine side. they all work. The engine also would not start when i unplugged the connector (All i got is more error codes). Engine will still crank

TunafishE93 · 05-21-2021, 12:27 PM

Fixed pictures.. If you checked the fuse already, right under the fuse is the relay, you can verify if that is working.

Also check where Valvetronic plugs into DME, its plug x60004 pictured.

lowrydr310 · 05-21-2021, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TunafishE93

The n55 doesnt have the sensor stated above. The n55 unit is inbetween 2 and 3 plugs as seen red circle in picture (blue circle is where other engines have the sensor stated above).

Well crap. I don't know how I missed that, assumed it was an N52 but now after reading the first few posts it's obvious. D'oh! But looks like that's still not the issue. I'll shut up now. I don't know much about the N55.

witty · 05-29-2021, 11:33 AM

Update:
Issue still occurs, I checked the sensor above and there was no oil. I took it to a guy who worked for a BMW tech and said that it might be the Valvetronic Motor that died because of the lack of lubrication. Can that be true? Did it seize up as soon as the battery died? This all occurred because of the battery disconnection. Should I take it up to a bmw center and see what they say about it?

coyo5050 · 05-31-2021, 06:41 PM

I am having some similar issues but mostly codes related to line disconnect and shorts to ground or B+. Following to see if you discover anything. Did you try starting with the eccentric shaft sensor disconnected?

witty · 05-31-2021, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coyo5050

I am having some similar issues but mostly codes related to line disconnect and shorts to ground or B+. Following to see if you discover anything. Did you try starting with the eccentric shaft sensor disconnected?

have yet to discover anything. Taking it to a shop tomorrow. I've taken this issue to multiple shops and they all told me that it was the eccentric shaft sensor. Hopefully, this shop that only fixes imports knows what they are doing (they also have the special BMW tool to do replace the eccentric shaft sensor). I have no error codes about disconnection or anything. Furthermore, I've disconnected the eccentric shaft sensor and it still doesn't start, only cranks. When disconnected, I do get more Valvetronic errors so I think the sensor does work. No clue what is happening though.

lowrydr310 · 05-31-2021, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by awesu

Update:
Issue still occurs, I checked the sensor above and there was no oil. I took it to a guy who worked for a BMW tech and said that it might be the Valvetronic Motor that died because of the lack of lubrication. Can that be true? Did it seize up as soon as the battery died? This all occurred because of the battery disconnection. Should I take it up to a bmw center and see what they say about it?

Here's a post from a few years ago with a similar issue. Unfortunately it was never resolved.

The valvetronic motor wouldn't die from lack of lubrication. It's just an electric motor, and there's plenty of lubrication on the worm gear under the valve cover.

Now that I think about this more and read back some of your older comments, it is possible that your valvetronic motor actually is siezed or just not moving when it's supposed to. That's exactly what that code says at least. In order for your car to run on the throttle plate as a failsafe (for example if the eccentric shaft sensor was unplugged) the valvetronic motor would still have to move to full lift to allow the engine to run. If it really is stuck, it wouldn't move to full lift and the car wouldn't run right if it started at all. So if you tried unplugging the ESS and it still won't start, it's still possible the valvetronic motor is seized.

I originally posted a link to manually moving the motor with an allen wrench, but again I'm only familiar with the N52 and it looks like a completely different valvetronic motor design and placement.

witty · 06-01-2021, 12:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

Here's a post from a few years ago with a similar issue. Unfortunately it was never resolved.

The valvetronic motor wouldn't die from lack of lubrication. It's just an electric motor, and there's plenty of lubrication on the worm gear under the valve cover.

Now that I think about this more and read back some of your older comments, it is possible that your valvetronic motor actually is siezed or just not moving when it's supposed to. That's exactly what that code says at least. In order for your car to run on the throttle plate as a failsafe (for example if the eccentric shaft sensor was unplugged) the valvetronic motor would still have to move to full lift to allow the engine to run. If it really is stuck, it wouldn't move to full lift and the car wouldn't run right if it started at all. So if you tried unplugging the ESS and it still won't start, it's still possible the valvetronic motor is seized.

I originally posted a link to manually moving the motor with an allen wrench, but again I'm only familiar with the N52 and it looks like a completely different valvetronic motor design and placement.

yes, there is a method of moving the lift manually, but I would have to drill into it, which seems like a very bad idea. Now what I'm confused about is how was pulling the battery make the Valvetronic motor seize. Or the issue with the car getting stuck on neutral, drive, and sport beforehand.

A mechanic quoted me 4000$ for the replacement of the sensor, camshafts which I kindly denied

hassmaschine · 06-01-2021, 09:13 AM

Is everything plugged in at the trunk? I typed my first reply on my phone so I didn't add much detail. There is a wire that goes straight from the VVT supply to the terminal on the battery itself. I was diagnosing something on my car and forgot to plug that in (I had also removed my battery). Tried to drive around the block but the VVT motor was stuck at the default position, so I barely made it back into the driveway. Assuming the N55 VVT motor is powered the same way, it's probably worth a quick look (which I assume it is, since it's way more current than you want running through the DME).

I think the N55 VVT motor does actually have the position sensor - except it's built into the motor itself, instead of being on the eccentric shaft like the N52. The VVT motor is also more compact, faster, and basically improved all around.

There's no service position on the N55 VVT motor? How do you get it out without taking apart all of the valvetronic bits? I doubt you need all new camshafts etc. so yeah, $4000 is rediculous. Swapping the VVT motor out on an N52 is a pretty easy DIY, but I don't know about the N55.

witty · 06-01-2021, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

Is everything plugged in at the trunk? I typed my first reply on my phone so I didn't add much detail. There is a wire that goes straight from the VVT supply to the terminal on the battery itself. I was diagnosing something on my car and forgot to plug that in (I had also removed my battery). Tried to drive around the block but the VVT motor was stuck at the default position, so I barely made it back into the driveway. Assuming the N55 VVT motor is powered the same way, it's probably worth a quick look (which I assume it is, since it's way more current than you want running through the DME).

I think the N55 VVT motor does actually have the position sensor - except it's built into the motor itself, instead of being on the eccentric shaft like the N52. The VVT motor is also more compact, faster, and basically improved all around.

There's no service position on the N55 VVT motor? How do you get it out without taking apart all of the valvetronic bits? I doubt you need all new camshafts etc. so yeah, $4000 is rediculous. Swapping the VVT motor out on an N52 is a pretty easy DIY, but I don't know about the N55.

The n55 vvt does have a position sensor but its built into the motor itself correct. The only way to replace it would be to remove the valve cover and basically disassemble from there. Also, I don't know if the battery had an extra plug but I plugged everything back on, except the ground one that it has in the back from delivery.

witty · 06-02-2021, 12:05 PM

UPDATE: took it to a mechanic, was told that the eccentric shaft actuator was faulty. They also told me they need to replace Valvetronic Eccentric Shaft (I do not think they do only because I know it's been replaced about 20k~ miles ago). Quoting me 2,800~ for the parts and labor(i feel like it's on the high side, actuator 450~ shaft 1000~ he's charging 135$ per hour for labor 10-hour labor). I'm in a pickle too, got the car about 3 months ago, used dealer said that the shaft was replaced 20k miles ago and the car was sold as-is with only a 1-month warranty. Again the only error code is 2DCF and only occurred when the battery was pulled. It was weird because he then started to talk about vanos (which is different from Valvetronic) which makes me think he also doesn't know what he's saying. Should I tell him to only replace the eccentric shaft actuator? 2800$ is a large bill, especially for an 11-year-old car. What I don't know is that if changing the actuator will 100% fix the issue.

DLucian · 12-02-2021, 02:00 PM

Did you manage to fix it in the end? I am having a similar issue. Bought the car at an auction, second hand, and found this permanent code: "2DCF: Valvetronic No Movement Identified". Car starts and runs fine, pulls fine, fuel consumption is good, everything feels normal apart from a little rough idle when cold starting but not too noticeable. When unlocking the car you can feel the specific buzzing noise where it seems the motor is working.

- Replaced VVT servomotor, did not fix it.
- Checked wiring and relay and seems fine. Also found a new harness between the servomotor and ECU so it seems that the previous owner also struggled with this.

I did put the ignition on and found that the 3 big pins from the servomotor plug (comming from the ECU) do not get any voltage when disconnected. Not sure if this is normal.

Tried a relearn with ISTA but the procedure does not start with the message "Error: voltage supply". Car was hooked to a jump starter that would make 13.9v when ignition was on so I don't think this was the reason for this error.

I am really considering ECU at this point.

Thanks!

DLucian · 01-12-2022, 05:25 PM

I am going to answer myself here, just to have this info out there if others are struggling with the same issue.

I sent my ECU to a Bosch factory repair service from Germany. They confirmed the unit is defective and also mentioned that it is not repairable. I was hoping that they would simply change the internals, being a Bosch service that they provide, and that is not cheap really (700 euro plus VAT). But no, they were actually planning to repair it and, the way these are built, they are not repairable.

Also, I tried with a second hand unit, cloned successfully, and it had THE SAME issue. Starting to think these are really common.

Hope this helps.

05-18-2021, 11:14 PM	#1
witty Second Lieutenant 20 Rep 204 Posts Drives: 2010 BMW 335i M-Sport Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: NJ iTrader: (0)	N55 valvetronic system no movement identified Long story short I don't know if this has to do with anything but it might: Driving around in sport (I have mhd stage2+) and was going to the mall, when as I was finding parking, I found one and parked. Weirdly enough, my shift release wasn't releasing which only let me go into neutral drive/sport. This was very weird since I backed out of my parking spot about 30-40 minutes ago and it was working fine. Took my car in to a shop and my battery then died because I couldn't take my keys off my ignition (car still in neutral). Jumped my battery and then me and my mechanic fixed the issue by removing the shift knob which awkwardly made it so I could shift into park and it started to work again. Now, this is the current issue I have: When I fixed the issue, I tried to start my car and it wouldn't start, It would crank, and I can smell gas and hear everything is working, but it won't start. I reflashed the tune (thinking it was the tune) but it didn't help. Checked all the fuses behind the glovebox and everything seemed to be working except my fuse for my seats (already knew that). I checked via MHD app and the error code i get is 2DCF: valvetronic system no movement identified. I searched all over the web, and the only conclusion I have came up with is that when the battery died, the car "forgot". Before this issue, I had no issues with the car starting at all or having any issues (sometimes HPFP, but that was only during cold days). I have no clue whats going on (not even my mechanic (doesn't work on bmws)) Do you guys think I might just have to do a relearn? Fix the Valvetronic servomotor?
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05-19-2021, 04:37 PM	#2
hassmaschine Major General 3984 Rep 7,212 Posts Drives: "NBO" 330i Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: earth iTrader: (0)	Valvetronic is powered straight from the battery. You said the battery died - could it be that it's not making enough power? what voltage do you get with the car off?
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05-19-2021, 04:55 PM	#3
witty Second Lieutenant 20 Rep 204 Posts Drives: 2010 BMW 335i M-Sport Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: NJ iTrader: (0)	We’ve hooked up the battery to a battery booster thinking it might have been the battery but it would only crank as well. I do soemtimes get low battery voltage on my screen, but only when i don’t have my car turned on. the battery is a diehard platinum and the battery is probably like 2-3 years old(based off carfax). Although the battery only would charge to 12V MAX.
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05-20-2021, 07:07 PM	#4
witty Second Lieutenant 20 Rep 204 Posts Drives: 2010 BMW 335i M-Sport Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: NJ iTrader: (0)	anybody got any idea? Replaced the battery (since it was old already) but fault code still there and the only fault code is 2DCF: valvetronic system no movement identified. Does anyone know if it is because I need the motor to relearn?
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05-21-2021, 04:45 AM	#9
TunafishE93 Major 420 Rep 1,152 Posts Drives: BMW 335i Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: NV iTrader: (0)	The n55 doesnt have the sensor stated above. The n55 unit is inbetween 2 and 3 plugs as seen red circle in picture (blue circle is where other engines have the sensor stated above). Fuse to check...fuse 4 in picture Fuses is Valvetronic related. Attached Images Last edited by TunafishE93; 05-21-2021 at 01:08 PM..
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05-21-2021, 12:27 PM	#11
TunafishE93 Major 420 Rep 1,152 Posts Drives: BMW 335i Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: NV iTrader: (0)	Fixed pictures.. If you checked the fuse already, right under the fuse is the relay, you can verify if that is working. Also check where Valvetronic plugs into DME, its plug x60004 pictured. Attached Images Last edited by TunafishE93; 05-21-2021 at 01:14 PM..
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05-29-2021, 11:33 AM	#13
witty Second Lieutenant 20 Rep 204 Posts Drives: 2010 BMW 335i M-Sport Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: NJ iTrader: (0)	Update: Issue still occurs, I checked the sensor above and there was no oil. I took it to a guy who worked for a BMW tech and said that it might be the Valvetronic Motor that died because of the lack of lubrication. Can that be true? Did it seize up as soon as the battery died? This all occurred because of the battery disconnection. Should I take it up to a bmw center and see what they say about it?
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05-31-2021, 06:41 PM	#14
coyo5050 Enlisted Member 6 Rep 32 Posts Drives: 2011 BMW 335xi Join Date: May 2021 Location: NY iTrader: (0)	I am having some similar issues but mostly codes related to line disconnect and shorts to ground or B+. Following to see if you discover anything. Did you try starting with the eccentric shaft sensor disconnected?
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06-01-2021, 09:13 AM	#18
hassmaschine Major General 3984 Rep 7,212 Posts Drives: "NBO" 330i Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: earth iTrader: (0)	Is everything plugged in at the trunk? I typed my first reply on my phone so I didn't add much detail. There is a wire that goes straight from the VVT supply to the terminal on the battery itself. I was diagnosing something on my car and forgot to plug that in (I had also removed my battery). Tried to drive around the block but the VVT motor was stuck at the default position, so I barely made it back into the driveway. Assuming the N55 VVT motor is powered the same way, it's probably worth a quick look (which I assume it is, since it's way more current than you want running through the DME). I think the N55 VVT motor does actually have the position sensor - except it's built into the motor itself, instead of being on the eccentric shaft like the N52. The VVT motor is also more compact, faster, and basically improved all around. There's no service position on the N55 VVT motor? How do you get it out without taking apart all of the valvetronic bits? I doubt you need all new camshafts etc. so yeah, $4000 is rediculous. Swapping the VVT motor out on an N52 is a pretty easy DIY, but I don't know about the N55.
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06-02-2021, 12:05 PM	#20
witty Second Lieutenant 20 Rep 204 Posts Drives: 2010 BMW 335i M-Sport Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: NJ iTrader: (0)	UPDATE: took it to a mechanic, was told that the eccentric shaft actuator was faulty. They also told me they need to replace Valvetronic Eccentric Shaft (I do not think they do only because I know it's been replaced about 20k~ miles ago). Quoting me 2,800~ for the parts and labor(i feel like it's on the high side, actuator 450~ shaft 1000~ he's charging 135$ per hour for labor 10-hour labor). I'm in a pickle too, got the car about 3 months ago, used dealer said that the shaft was replaced 20k miles ago and the car was sold as-is with only a 1-month warranty. Again the only error code is 2DCF and only occurred when the battery was pulled. It was weird because he then started to talk about vanos (which is different from Valvetronic) which makes me think he also doesn't know what he's saying. Should I tell him to only replace the eccentric shaft actuator? 2800$ is a large bill, especially for an 11-year-old car. What I don't know is that if changing the actuator will 100% fix the issue. Last edited by witty; 06-02-2021 at 12:37 PM..
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12-02-2021, 02:00 PM	#21
DLucian Private 7 Rep 63 Posts Drives: E91 335i N55 \| F20 125I B48 Join Date: Mar 2021 Location: Romania iTrader: (0)	Did you manage to fix it in the end? I am having a similar issue. Bought the car at an auction, second hand, and found this permanent code: "2DCF: Valvetronic No Movement Identified". Car starts and runs fine, pulls fine, fuel consumption is good, everything feels normal apart from a little rough idle when cold starting but not too noticeable. When unlocking the car you can feel the specific buzzing noise where it seems the motor is working. - Replaced VVT servomotor, did not fix it. - Checked wiring and relay and seems fine. Also found a new harness between the servomotor and ECU so it seems that the previous owner also struggled with this. I did put the ignition on and found that the 3 big pins from the servomotor plug (comming from the ECU) do not get any voltage when disconnected. Not sure if this is normal. Tried a relearn with ISTA but the procedure does not start with the message "Error: voltage supply". Car was hooked to a jump starter that would make 13.9v when ignition was on so I don't think this was the reason for this error. I am really considering ECU at this point. Thanks!
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01-12-2022, 05:25 PM	#22
DLucian Private 7 Rep 63 Posts Drives: E91 335i N55 \| F20 125I B48 Join Date: Mar 2021 Location: Romania iTrader: (0)	I am going to answer myself here, just to have this info out there if others are struggling with the same issue. I sent my ECU to a Bosch factory repair service from Germany. They confirmed the unit is defective and also mentioned that it is not repairable. I was hoping that they would simply change the internals, being a Bosch service that they provide, and that is not cheap really (700 euro plus VAT). But no, they were actually planning to repair it and, the way these are built, they are not repairable. Also, I tried with a second hand unit, cloned successfully, and it had THE SAME issue. Starting to think these are really common. Hope this helps.
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