[Icarium81]

So how's this project coming along? Been a few weeks

[QueenCityLurker]

Originally Posted by Icarium81

So how's this project coming along? Been a few weeks

I'm headed out tomorrow to travel for work and will be gone for almost 2 months, so it'll be mid to late September at best for an update.

But the latest is that ISTA shows the DME is offline/not communicating with the FEM.
I've got 12V at the DME, so I don't think it's a power issue and the fuses for the DME appear to be fine.

I was reading some other F30 threads where some guys had an issue with their car's not starting if they didn't disconnect the battery before removing their JB4 and therefore causing some kind of an electrical short or condition where the car won't start unless you do something with a TMAP (no idea what they were referencing). From I could tell, it was a grounding or short issue and they had to do some type of workaround to get the car to start again.

One thread mentioned a "ground trace" relating to the no start condition caused by improperly removing a JB4. To my knowledge this car has never had a JB4 on it, but the symptoms sound similar.

If anyone knows what the F30 guys were referring to about the "ground trace" or TMAP, please feel free to chime in. They were saying that without the workaround, the car wouldn't start and the DME would need to be replaced, but with the workaround they were able to start the car?

Thanks!

[QueenCityLurker]

Resurrecting this back from the dead.
For the FRAT members, the car is running again.

For the non FRAT members, here is the latest. And I'll need help (paid of course) coding a new FEM that was purchased from the dealer.

I met a guy who works for Hendrick BMW as a tech. I had him over to look at the 440I.
He unplugged all the DME harnesses and inspected them for corrosion (there wasn't any) and then plugged them back in.
Connect the car to ISTA and low and behold, the DME is back online again!
I had previously unplugged and reconnected all DME harnesses several times, so the only thing I can think of is that one wasn't seated fully within the harness? Don't know. Just happy the DME came back online.

So we go to start the car and it won't start. So we run the starter test in ISTA and we note that it sounds like the starter isn't being engaged.
He looks deeper in to the starter documentation in ISTA and finds it's controlled by the FEM. Cross reference against the list of errors and we're able to determine that the brand new FEM that BMW sold me came with the starter lock enabled on the FEM.
Thanks BMW!

So we swap back to the original FEM that is fried and low and behold the car starts again.

We tried to code the new FEM using ISTA, but because several other modules in the car were flood damaged and there is no communication to them, ISTA will not allow us to code the new FEM.

I'm hopeful that someone can point me to a forum member who can remote in to my laptop connected to the car and maybe use E-sys to code the FEM module without having to code all modules on the car. Once the FEM is coded, then I can finally restore some of the broken FEM functionality.

So -- can you all recommend someone who can code my FEM?

[WDE82]

Originally Posted by QueenCityLurker

Resurrecting this back from the dead.
For the FRAT members, the car is running again.

For the non FRAT members, here is the latest. And I'll need help (paid of course) coding a new FEM that was purchased from the dealer.

I met a guy who works for Hendrick BMW as a tech. I had him over to look at the 440I.
He unplugged all the DME harnesses and inspected them for corrosion (there wasn't any) and then plugged them back in.
Connect the car to ISTA and low and behold, the DME is back online again!
I had previously unplugged and reconnected all DME harnesses several times, so the only thing I can think of is that one wasn't seated fully within the harness? Don't know. Just happy the DME came back online.

So we go to start the car and it won't start. So we run the starter test in ISTA and we note that it sounds like the starter isn't being engaged.
He looks deeper in to the starter documentation in ISTA and finds it's controlled by the FEM. Cross reference against the list of errors and we're able to determine that the brand new FEM that BMW sold me came with the starter lock enabled on the FEM.
Thanks BMW!

So we swap back to the original FEM that is fried and low and behold the car starts again.

We tried to code the new FEM using ISTA, but because several other modules in the car were flood damaged and there is no communication to them, ISTA will not allow us to code the new FEM.

I'm hopeful that someone can point me to a forum member who can remote in to my laptop connected to the car and maybe use E-sys to code the FEM module without having to code all modules on the car. Once the FEM is coded, then I can finally restore some of the broken FEM functionality.

So -- can you all recommend someone who can code my FEM?

I admire your perseverance but I think you're going to be chasing more modules. Maybe you can acquire a full set from a wrecked car and just nuke this problem in one go.

[QueenCityLurker]

Originally Posted by WDE82

I admire your perseverance but I think you're going to be chasing more modules. Maybe you can acquire a full set from a wrecked car and just nuke this problem in one go.

So in reviewing the ISTA module tree, it looks like the modules left that aren't communicating are the audio related modules and seat modules. Should be pretty easy to source those.
I just really need assistance in coding the FEM to start so I can roll the windows up in the car, disable the starter lock and start the car on the new FEM.

[sergsaa]

Originally Posted by QueenCityLurker

So in reviewing the ISTA module tree, it looks like the modules left that aren't communicating are the audio related modules and seat modules. Should be pretty easy to source those.
I just really need assistance in coding the FEM to start so I can roll the windows up in the car, disable the starter lock and start the car on the new FEM.

So how the project is going I'm thru something similar.

[QueenCityLurker]

Originally Posted by sergsaa

So how the project is going I'm thru something similar.

What is the issue you're seeing? I'll post the update on the car in the following response.

[QueenCityLurker]

10/28/2023 update:

Got the new FEM coded by a forum member. It did fight him on identifying the module in Esys (more on that in a second) but he did manage to get it coded.
After it was coded, the car wouldn't start on the new FEM, but some functions like windows started working again. Also, some body functions like rear trunk release wasn't working and I noticed the rear tail lights stayed on no matter what position the headlight switch was in. Very odd.

So I rolled the windows up and then plugged up the old FEM so I could start the car and move it around the driveway/garage. When unplugging the new FEM and plugging up the old FEM, I noticed one of the FEM harnesses wasn't seated fully, which may have explained the no start and weird body function issues.
A week later I decided to try the new FEM again.
Made sure all FEM harnesses were properly seated this time.
BOOM. Car starts, windows work, driver side seat adjustment starts working, trunk release works fine now. Tail lights return to normal behavior again too.
So car is back to running/driving with window functions again so I can wash it and keep it clean while I continue working on it.

Not working / flood damaged / corroded:
1) Harmon Kardon amp -- totally fried. This is low priority at the moment
2) ASD module -- bought a new one from ECS tuning. Installed. Still shows no communication in ISTA with this module. I am thinking it is because the HK amp is unplugged. I think ISTA sees the ASD module whole when both the ASD and HK amp are plugged in and working. This is low priority.
3) Possibly DSC module. Car has all kinds of stability/driver assist warning lights on including RED brake light, steering, traction, TPMS, etc. I believe for 2018+ models, all of those functions are rolled up in to the DSC module.
**However** it seems faulty wheel speed sensors can also cause this condition.
When I drive the car, it's clearly in limp mode and the speedometer is not registering any speed, which makes me hopeful that the DSC module is ok and the car just needs new wheel speed sensors. I'll replace those as they are cheap and see what that gets me. Of course this could also be a blown fuse somewhere that I need to track down.
4) ICM module shows as no communication in ISTA either, but did show online on the old FEM. Airbag warning lights on dash. So I suspect a blown fuse.
5) One of the idler pulleys/tension pulleys is making a noise so I will probably take that as an opportunity to replace the water pump and idler/tension pulleys and knock that all out in one shot.
6) Telematics module is fried (Bluetooth, SOS call, etc). Will source one used on Ebay.

Good news -- did an oil change and coolant drain/refill and both looked healthy when drained, so it's clear the engine did not ingest any water when it went swimming.

Interior had a light mold smell so I removed all rear panels from the car to clean them all with Chlorine Dioxide (works AMAZING on any persistent odor) that kills the bacteria and leaves a new car smell.
Also purchased a Chlorine Dioxide odor kit off of Amazon to leave in the car overnight. It's basically a Chloring Dioxide packet and sponge that comes in a ventilated plastic tub. Wet the sponge, slide the packet in to the sponge, put those in the ventilated plastic tub then place on arm rest of the vehicle over night. Let it sit overnight or however long you like. Then open doors and let vehicle gas off for about an hour or so and all odors are gone. Works amazing.

More to come. For any damaged modules that are cost prohibitive new, I will buy on Ebay and code to the car to save money.

[samspiderman3125]

awsome thread man, wish you the best and would love to hear updates, whats the current money spent in it?

[QueenCityLurker]

Originally Posted by samspiderman3125

awsome thread man, wish you the best and would love to hear updates, whats the current money spent in it?

Thanks. Sent you a PM.

[QueenCityLurker]

Originally Posted by QueenCityLurker

3) Possibly DSC module. Car has all kinds of stability/driver assist warning lights on including RED brake light, steering, traction, TPMS, etc. I believe for 2018+ models, all of those functions are rolled up in to the DSC module.
**However** it seems faulty wheel speed sensors can also cause this condition.
When I drive the car, it's clearly in limp mode and the speedometer is not registering any speed, which makes me hopeful that the DSC module is ok and the car just needs new wheel speed sensors. I'll replace those as they are cheap and see what that gets me. Of course this could also be a blown fuse somewhere that I need to track down.

10/30/2023 update:
Replaced the wheel speed sensors at all 4 corners, but still have the DSC christmas tree lights on the dash (TPMS, Traction, Steering, Red brake light,etc) so I'm going to test all fuses with a circuit tester next weekend.
I visually checked all fuses and while they "look" ok, that isn't definitive.

If all fuses test good, then I'll replace the DSC module.
Looks like there's a way to replace the module and motor without disrupting the hydraulic pump and having to add fluid/bleed the system.

[sergsaa]

Originally Posted by QueenCityLurker

What is the issue you're seeing? I'll post the update on the car in the following response.

well, first of all im very happy for your progress!!, i also bought me a 2015 f36 GC with a little of water damage front passenger window wouldn't work hi-fi amp fried, ads amp fried central lock malfunctioning (would lock but not unlock using fob or center button) also only one key, were the actual blade key was awfully loose, it was so bad that I almost lost it a couple of times, the car drove awesomely and super smooth, but... i decided to make a copy of the key fob, i knew that at least two relays on FEM where bad so the FEM had to be replaced at one point so i went for it using xtool d8. it didn't work,the FEM got corrupted, car now wont start or turn on nor communicate with other modules, so your post has brought a light of hope to my issue.

[QueenCityLurker]

Originally Posted by sergsaa

well, first of all im very happy for your progress!!, i also bought me a 2015 f36 GC with a little of water damage front passenger window wouldn't work hi-fi amp fried, ads amp fried central lock malfunctioning (would lock but not unlock using fob or center button) also only one key, were the actual blade key was awfully loose, it was so bad that I almost lost it a couple of times, the car drove awesomely and super smooth, but... i decided to make a copy of the key fob, i knew that at least two relays on FEM where bad so the FEM had to be replaced at one point so i went for it using xtool d8. it didn't work,the FEM got corrupted, car now wont start or turn on nor communicate with other modules, so your post has brought a light of hope to my issue.

Thanks.
Do you have access to ISTA to see if theres any level of communication to the FEM at all?
If so, I'll PM you the name of the forum member who helped me code my FEM. He might be able to un-f**k your FEM and return it back to a working state again.

[sergsaa]

I don't have ista yet, but I'm looking into buy it

[QueenCityLurker]

Originally Posted by sergsaa

I don't have ista yet, but I'm looking into buy it

Ok. Just an FYI, I paid $28 on the famous auction site that rhymes with Fleabay for ISTA.
And I paid another $100 for the Bimmer Utility app. Both have been well worth it to me.

[QueenCityLurker]

Originally Posted by marcosdani

Did air bag(s) discharge? If so, the crash module, on older Bimmers anyway, would sever the (+) battery cable (BST terminal) with an explosive charge, and shutdown the low pressure fuel pump.

Airbags did not deploy.
Last summer when the car wouldn't start, I replaced the BST, IBS and Integrated Power supply for the DME.
None of those fixed the issue.

[QueenCityLurker]

Quick update on the car.
Waiting on body panels to arrive so I can send them off to paint.
Front/Rear bumpers, front fenders, hood and side skirts.

Waiting on replacement headlights to arrive.
Purchased 19" wheels to upgrade from the factory 18" style 397 wheels. Waiting on tires to arrive.

Items left to troubleshoot/diagnose to get the car out of limp mode:
1) Error codes are complaining about no communication from DSC to FEM.
Have the christmas tree combo of DSC, steering, TPMS related lights on the dash. Car stops fine and brake pedal feels normal, so this doesn't seem to be a mechanical issue. Could be the DSC module itself. I have a spare one to install if the module is bad but it could be related to #2...
2) Error codes complaining about no communication from ICM to FEM. There seems to be some sort of relationship between ICM and DSC, so these two issues might be related. I have a spare ICM to install if this module turns out to be bad as well.
3) Driver's side Comfort Access and door will not lock with key fob or the lock button on the dash. I suspect the actuator is bad, but I'll be posting a separate thread for others to sanity check my thought process on it.
Ironically, while going down the Google rabbit hole regarding this door issue, I did come across another thread where it was mentioned that the door actuator and DSC module share the same power source. (Probably one of the dumbest engineering decisions I've ever heard of)
If this is true, then there is a 2% chance that fixing the door actuator might solve the DSC problem. Possibly the ICM problem as well. Wishful thinking but I've got replacement DSC and ICM modules if they turn out to in fact be bad.

[oem.plus_440gc]

For issue #1, I would check out your wheel speed sensors. If one isn't functioning, it will throw all those errors.

For issue #3, I've seen people having issues with the receivers/antennas for Comfort Access in the car not functioning properly. I would check the receiver that is on the drivers side (i believe near the side skirt area).

I have no input on the rest, but I hope you get it working!

[QueenCityLurker]

Originally Posted by oem.plus_440gc

For issue #1, I would check out your wheel speed sensors. If one isn't functioning, it will throw all those errors.

For issue #3, I've seen people having issues with the receivers/antennas for Comfort Access in the car not functioning properly. I would check the receiver that is on the drivers side (i believe near the side skirt area).

I have no input on the rest, but I hope you get it working!

Thank you for the response good sir.
I did see that wheel speed sensors can cause those issues, so I went ahead and replaced all 4 with OEM new. Unfortunately it did not fix the issue. But hey, at least my wheel speed sensors will be good for awhile!

You are correct on the CAS stuff. It seems the antennas under the side skirts go bad, but in the forum posts I saw, a bad CAS antenna will still allow the door to lock/unlock using the key fob. It just breaks the lock/unlock feature using the door handle.

I feel like by the time I finish this project, I will have reverse engineered a F32 440i...

[oem.plus_440gc]

Originally Posted by QueenCityLurker

Thank you for the response good sir.
I did see that wheel speed sensors can cause those issues, so I went ahead and replaced all 4 with OEM new. Unfortunately it did not fix the issue. But hey, at least my wheel speed sensors will be good for awhile!

You are correct on the CAS stuff. It seems the antennas under the side skirts go bad, but in the forum posts I saw, a bad CAS antenna will still allow the door to lock/unlock using the key fob. It just breaks the lock/unlock feature using the door handle.

I feel like by the time I finish this project, I will have reverse engineered a F32 440i...

Aww man! Sorry I couldn't give you any more help.

Hopefully for the door, its just the lock actuator, which also seems to be a somewhat common issue on the F3x cars...

Best of luck and big props for taking on a huge project like this!

[QueenCityLurker]

Originally Posted by oem.plus_440gc

Aww man! Sorry I couldn't give you any more help.

Hopefully for the door, its just the lock actuator, which also seems to be a somewhat common issue on the F3x cars...

Best of luck and big props for taking on a huge project like this!

All good brother. I'll take any/all advice I can get.
It takes a village to fix one of these cars.
I'm basically a walking "I can fix her" meme, but the idea of quitting on something just never sat right with me.

[Crystal330i]

Originally Posted by QueenCityLurker

All good brother. I'll take any/all advice I can get.
It takes a village to fix one of these cars.
I'm basically a walking "I can fix her" meme, but the idea of quitting on something just never sat right with me.

Excited to see the progress! Good luck with this, commenting for updates