[FaxData]

Disclaimer: Coding your car isn't that hard, but it can be intimidating. Note that there are some really great (and cheap!) options for getting a used CIC/combox already coded to your VIN, and activated with remote coding. Some of the forum members here offer these remote coding options!

Skip to unlocking navigation (FSTool2 tutorial)

Skip to coding combox

This post is my pseudo-DIY / build log for a CIC / combox / 6FL retrofit into my 2007 e92 335i (with MMI for rear-view camera). The build took months of research, reading dozens of threads (including all 80-some pages of the CIC patcher thread, referenced below). I figure that yes, the information is all out there and can be found via search but 1. some of it is out of date and 2. the information is scattered. Also, I love these forums but haven't had a chance to contribute a whole lot. So enjoy!

The basics:
I started with a 2007 e92 with build date #0307 and features $609 (iDrive professional navigation, CCC), $620 (voice control), $639 (bluetooth phone calls, SOS). (My audio system was $677 - HiFi Logic 7 and I have $249 which is the multifunction steering wheel.) My car did not have $6FL (USB / MULF2).

What I wanted:
1. A project - hence why I bought components separately and did the coding myself. I wanted to do something challenging.
2. The car to feel newer
3. Bluetooth audio (A2DP)

So first, the installation is very doable, particularly the CIC and combox. The 6FL was probably the most difficult to figure out. I did the install in stages so I wouldn't get overwhelmed.

For the CIC, I picked up: a CIC, a CIC screen (CID), CID power connector (61136954526), LVDS video cable (61119185171), USB port (84109237656) and CIC->glovebox USB cable (61129196805). Credit to this post by cn555ic for the part numbers. Instead of collecting all the various wires and sockets, you can get a kit for cheaper if you like. BTW make sure you buy from honest auto dismantlers who give you the VIN of the donor car! You don't want stolen goods of course, but especially for the combox you will want the VIN so you can get the correct software update from the BMW site.

I did not bother with the updated iDrive controller, because my CCC controller still looks great after 12 years and all the CIC controllers on eBay looked beat up. I don't know why, but it seemed to me they wear out faster. I don't cover the controller retrofit, but there's no coding for that part. Again, see this post by cn555ic for details.

I did buy my CIC and CID separately. I made sure to buy the newest CIC I could find (2013), as I read somewhere 2012+ units come with C1A firmware.* I noticed they cost about $100 more than 2009-2011 models, but then I didn't need to find and pay someone with an ICOM to upgrade the firmware. I bought an earlier (2010) CID because I wanted one with the protective acrylic screen. Buying them separately definitely cost me extra money.

Installation of the CIC hardware is pretty reasonable, and BMWFanatic did a great video on it. If you want to see the pin movements for the CID connection, here are photos from cn555ic's thread.

*Also, if you want to use both satellite radio and BMW apps together, you will probably want to go with a later unit with the pink connector in the back - the newer build date (03/11) needed for BMW apps will disable the sat radio IBOC in the trunk. You can buy a sat radio extension cable on eBay, and run it from the dash to the trunk. I have no idea if the build date for combox without BMW apps (09/10) will disable the satellite IBOC, perhaps someone here can enlighten us.

[FaxData]

Coding the CIC comes in two parts: 1. FA/VO coding the unit to your car's features (e.g. my CIC came from a car with $676 (HiFi), $6FL and a Combox; and my car has $S677 (Logic7) without $6FL and with a TCU). 2. Activating Navigation.

Quick coding tutorial: So no matter what, you will need to be able to do FA/VO coding. To my knowledge, this must be done with a PC and K+DCAN cable. I used the EA-90X setup by FAL because I had it from before. If you don't already have a coding environment, you can go to bimmergeeks.net and grab standard tools. (Install it according to the instructions, then use "Coding Tool" to update the SP-DATEN with the "Base" and "e89" files also on bimmergeeks.net, search the web for "how to update SP-DATEN using BMW coding tool"...) I used virtualbox and installed it on a virtual machine with windows XP. Get a good cable - I haven't personally used it but the one sold by bimmergeeks.net looks pretty good, and you can bridge/unbridge pins 7&8. The pins should be unbridged for e90. I highly recommend a power source so you don't run down your battery and brick your new CIC.

After you've installed standard tools and updated it, set up your cable and try FSW-PSW coding with NCS Expert. BTW the extended example of using INPA doesn't work on the bimmergeeks.net distro. Also, if using the bimmergeeks.net distro, use the manipulation profile. (Try turning on ZYCLUS_VOLLEND_KLR_AUS in JBBF for example - this makes the car park the wipers even if you turn off the engine mid-wipe. Or turn off ENABLE_GURTBRINGER_FA in an e92 and your seatbelt butlers will stop working.) Once you get the hang of it, learn to alter the FA/VO (note that the FA/VO in the e90 is in the CAS and the FRM, which is NFRM for the 2007). Then, learn to default code a module to the FA/VO stored in CAS (Use the "Factory Coding" profile in the bimmergeeks.net distro).

/end quick coding tutorial

So to code the CIC: Load an NCS Expert profile without manipulation. Load your FA/VO, delete your build date (save it for reference), add #0909 build date, add $6VA, and save the new FA/VO to CAS and FRM (NFRM) using FA_WRITE.* Then run SG_CODIEREN on CIC.

Note: If you're having issues with ISTA resetting your MOST during diagnostics due to a futile search for the prior CCC Ant / CCC Mask, or if you notice the radio doesn't shutdown smoothly when locking the doors, try removing $609 from the FA/VO in CAS and FRM (NFRM) after you're done coding the CIC. Do not default code the CIC once you've removed $609. (Credit: SaNGRia)

*I went from CCC professional to CIC professional. If you're going from CCC business ($606) or something like that to CIC professional, be sure to delete the old code ($606) and add the new one ($609).

[FaxData]

Activating locked features (Navigation):
Voice control, navigation, sat radio, bmw apps and Arabic language (why lock only this language??) are locked to the native VIN of the CIC; a method must be chosen to unlock them. So I went with the CIC patcher method, which is the most flexible but also the most difficult. Before I explain how, here are the four methods:

Buy all new certificates - Legally purchase all the features for your VIN. Pros: legal, as OEM as it gets. Cons: expensive; the cost of buying all the certificates might be enough money to buy a newer model car instead...

Hardware emulator - a CAN filter sitting between the CIC and the rest of the CAN topology that prevents the CIC from successfully checking the VIN. Pros: straight-forward hardware install, easy map updates, no mucking around with CIC software. Cons: costs money (and shipping time), requires cutting CAN wires on factory harness if you don't pay for the more expensive plug-and-play harness, cannot add certificates that the original VIN did not have (locked features e.g. sat radio, bmw apps).

Script activation - a small shell script (written by intel123) that runs at boot to activate all the certificates that are locked due to mismatched VINs. Pros: Free, super easy to install. Cons: Cannot add certificates that the original VIN did not have (locked features e.g. sat radio, bmw apps). Still requires a working coding environment with FSTool2 or equivalent to update maps, unless you are willing to cut the CAN wires.

CIC patcher V2 - a small shell script (written by intel123) that modifies how the CIC reads and accepts the root security certificate, allowing you to upload forged certificates. Pros: Allows you to add all the certificates available, including certificates that did not come with the donor car. Cons: Only works CICs from USA or ECE regions running C1A firmware. Additionally, the CIC will now reject the genuine certificates from the donor car, so this is a one-way street (unless you flash it back to stock C1A or replace /mnt/HBpersistence/rcert.swt).

I went with the patcher, which should've been easy but took me a surprising amount of research and trial-and-error. First I couldn't get the software, then I couldn't get it to load, then I couldn't get the CIC to accept any certificates, then I got certificates 17, 19, 1B working, but couldn't get 9C, 6F, etc etc. Weeks went by.

So... in the end, this can be complicated, or it can be easy. The easy way:

1. Get a working coding environment (working EDIABAS). If you've made it this far and have a working NCS Expert with working SP-Daten files, you're good to go here.

2. Use Tool32 to set the VIN in the CIC to your car's VIN. Note the tutorial incorrectly says 17 alphanumeric digits but it's actually 18 digits (17 for the VIN and 1 for the checksum).

3. Get and install Java Runtime Environment 1.5.0 update 22 (Jave SE Runtime Environment 5.0u22). (Some tutorials say 1.4.0 is fine, but I found FSTool2 to be buggy with 1.4.0.)

4. Get FSTool2 version 02.02.00. Look for the installer file called setup_fstool2_02.02.00.exe. Please don't bother with any other version. Run the installer, it will install CarServer, FSTool2, and extra EDIABAS configuration files. It will handle 6F and 9C. BTW if you install it and try to run it without Java, it will not give any errors. It just won't run.

5. Find BMW CIC Patcher v2 by intel123. You will find it on the first post of a super long (80+ page) forum thread. Keep this thread open. Unzip the files. There are 4 folders, 00_PRIVATEKEYS, 01_PATCHER, 02_CERTS and 03_FSC_TEMPLATES.

6. Copy the copie_scr.sh file from 01_PATCHER\USB_AUTORUN onto the root folder of a USB drive, and plug it into the glovebox USB (the one directly connected to your CIC). It will run, and the CIC will reboot.

7. Go to CIC patcher v2 thread post #746 for the pdf guide on installing certificates for e90 (cic_fsc_Ex_en.pdf). It is NOT complete enough to use, but I will refer to it in a second.

8. Run FSTool2 using the desktop icon. Go to Configuration (the last tab), set the language to English. Scroll to the bottom. Under "Certificates" set FSCS, Root and Sig certificates to 02_CERTS\fscs.der, 02_CERTS\root.der and 02_CERTS\sigs.der, respectively. Under "Keys" set the private key to 00_PRIVATEKEYS\fscs.der. Go to Connection (first tab) and hit Connect.

9. Go to Parameter, and set Diagnose address to 63, Appl.-Nr. to 19 (or whatever certificate you are uploading), Upgrade index to 1, and VIN to the last 7 digits of your car's VIN.

10. Go to Enabling Codes. Click load from file, go to 03_FSC_TEMPLATES, open 00190001.fsc. Click Edit. Put the last 7 digits of your VIN in "VIN short." Click Sign, click Check signature, click Save as (not needed but you can sign all the certs ahead of time!) and click Apply.

11. Go to SWT Develop. (Open the PDF guide from step 7 above! Jump to page 4, do step 6 through step 12.) Click STORE_SIG_CERT, click =>. Click CHECK_SIG_CERT, click =>. Click Execute, look for two successful statuses. Remove STORE_SIG_CERT and CHECK_SIG_CERT using the <= button. Click SET_VIN, click =>, click Execute, look for success, remove using <= button.

12. (PDF guide steps 13-14) STORE_FSCS_CERT, =>, CHECK_FSCS_CERT, =>, STORE_FSC, =>, CHECK_FSC, =>, Execute. Look for four successes.

13. Repeat Step 10 above with 001B0001.fsc. (Load, Edit, Sign, Check signature, [Save], Apply) Check tab Parameter to make sure the application changed from 19 to 1B (old versions of FSTool2 do not auto-update). Now repeat Step 12 above (STORE_FSCS_CERT, =>, CHECK_FSCS_CERT, =>, STORE_FSC, =>, CHECK_FSC, =>, Execute). You do not need to repeat step 11. Repeat steps 10 and 12 for all the certificates you would like to insert (which certificates do what are on page 8 of the PDF guide).*

14. Reboot the CIC. You could a. let the car sit for a bit, b. disconnect / reconnect the battery, c. FA/VO code the CIC (SG_CODIEREN), or d. login with telnet and run "slay HmiMain" - I'm not covering the latter in this DIY though.

15. Assuming you installed at least the 19 and 1B certificates, Navigation should now be selectable. BUT when you select it, it will ask you for an activation code. Pull your 1b file via USB stick**, and use it in Jaeger's FSC generator. If you know what year the maps are in the CIC, you can generate that specific year, otherwise just generate a lifetime code and use that.

Done! Navigation should now be working. You can check your other certificates individually in FSTool2 using GET_STATUS, or all at once using a tool called FSC Tools.

*Inserting certificates only unlocks the feature for cars that are programmed to have the feature, it doesn't add the feature. So if you want voice control for example, you do need certificate 17, but you need to also add the hardware (microphone to headunit - different from the bluetooth microphone that goes to the TCU/MULF/Combox, as well as activation button e.g. multifunction steering wheel $249) and code in $620 (and $249 I think) to CAS/NFRM and default code your CIC. BMW apps requires certificate 9C, a combox, 6FL or 6NF and coding in $6NR (see next post). Satellite radio requires certificate 6F, running an extension to your satellite prep in the trunk (or a full antenna to your shark fin if you don't have prep) and coding in $693->$655 (delete 693, add 655). Disclaimer: I have not tried adding satellite radio to my car, and I already had voice control and TCU.

**An aside - You don't need an IP connection to your CIC for this DIY, unless your CIC is old enough that the USB script fails. If you're getting the generic VIN, you will need to telnet or FTP into the CIC to get your 1b file instead. Forum members will say you can either run ethernet to your OBD2 port, or attach a USB-ethernet adapter to the glovebox USB port. Most USB-to-Ethernet adapters don't work and the old referenced D-Link one is not available; instead get one with the ASIX AX88772 chipset. I bought this one, it works. I think a clue that it will work is that the adapter advertises compatibility with Nintendo Wii / WiiU, but I'm not sure on that.

[FaxData]

Ok, on to the combox! Honestly this was the best part of the upgrade. I did the CIC first, and I loved the new look (CCC->CIC is the biggest incremental jump there is, more so than CIC->NBT and so on, in my humble opinion). But there were literally no new features, and I lost the ability to fine tune my air conditioning and to customize my steering wheel buttons. I was still also stuck with plugging my phone into my aux jack via RCA cord (I had a Tunai Firefly but hated it, it did not gracefully handle 2 phones well at all).

Combox added enhanced bluetooth with bluetooth music (A2DP) and office. Wireless music, song title / artist / album name on the screen, rewind and skip tracks using my steering wheel controls. It handles a 2+ phone household well; I just switch to my wife's phone in the menu when she wants to play a song. It could also show or read aloud new text messages. Much safer than pulling my phone out of the center console every time I wanted to see or skip a track, or glance at a text.

You will need a BN2000 combox, 26 pin connector (61136913644) and housing (61136913626).

This amazing thread explains all the combox options. But in 2019, just buy any BN2000 combox, it doesn't matter. They all run on 2G, so at least in the USA, no telematics are available because the 2G network is gone. I got one from a donor car that didn't even have iDrive, so it has the GPS port in the back. I only connected the 26 pin connector, the MOST port and the bluetooth antenna. In order to connect the bluetooth antenna without an adapter, I had to shave down the fin on the Fakra plug. I don't know if others have been able to just cut the fin; I had to open up the combox (Torx 8) and remove the circuit board to do so. I also did not make or purchase a harness for the 26 pin plug; I just moved the pins from my TCU plug. I did not run a CAN line to my combox; it codes fine via K+DCAN using the CIC as a gateway, and the telematics don't work anyway.

BMWFanatic also did a video for combox installation. He does use a harness, whereas I just moved pins (same procedure as moving the pins for the CID power plug). He has both a TCU and a MULF2, so he had to terminate the MULF2 MOST line. (If you need a cheap terminator, you can get one from a wrecked car in the junkyard; grab the terminator underneath the steering column where the ICOM usually plugs in.) I just had a TCU so I didn't need to terminate that line. Here are the pin movements for the TCU / MULF2 to Combox.

This DIY assumes you already have Bluetooth phone calling via TCU ($639) or MULF2. If you have bluetooth prep ($640), install the microphone (different from the voice control mic going to the headunit), bluetooth antenna, loudspeaker, TCU bracket and activate the MOST connector as if you were retrofitting a TCU first, then code as below, removing $640 instead of $639. If you don't even have bluetooth prep, you will have to run wires...

Coding the combox!
I found a PDF instruction set that had me add all sorts of FA/VO codes, far more than necessary. It was geared towards enabling BMW online for free - but 2G is gone so there's no point. Don't bother with Russian VINs, etc. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong here!)

1. First, use Tool32 to set the VIN in the Combox to your car's VIN.

2. Load an NCS Expert profile without manipulation. Load your FA/VO, delete your build date (save it for reference), add #0910 build date, add $6VC. If you had a TCU like I did and want to exchange SOS (which doesn't work anymore) for enhanced bluetooth, delete $639 and add $644 in its place. Save the new FA/VO to CAS and FRM (NFRM) using FA_WRITE. Then run SG_CODIEREN on KOMBI, MEDIA and on CIC.

3. IF you have 6FL (which I didn't at the time) AND you have a 9C certificate in your CIC, use build date #0311 instead, and add $6NR along with $6VC (and $639->$644). Save the new FA/VO to CAS and FRM (NFRM) using FA_WRITE. Then run SG_CODIEREN on KOMBI, MEDIA and on CIC. Now you'll also have BMW apps! (which only works with iPhones I believe. Install the ConnectedDrive app from the app store. Skip searching for your VIN in the app, just plug in the cable to the car and it'll work.)

Notes:

If you have 6FL, you can update your combox here using the donor VIN.

For text messages, at least on an iphone, turn on bluetooth notifications. Confusingly, the menu option didn't even show up in CIC until I did this, making me think I was missing a VO option code. I wasn't, I just needed to turn this on in my bluetooth settings. For the iphone, it only shows messages on your lock screen, not your old texts.

You do not need $614 (internet preparations), $615 (BMW online), $6AL (BMW live), $6NF (smartphone prep) or $7SP (pretty sure this isn't even an e90 option). 614, 615 and 6AL won't run due to loss of 2G. For 6FL/6NF, the combox has two USB ports, one black and one blue. 6FL runs off the black port and 6NF runs off the blue port. Even after my 6FL retrofit, I never did get the blue port running correctly. My iPhone 6 was detected but music did not play properly (title/artist/album was there but no sound), and the "plugin" interface did not work - I think you need an iPhone 4/4S. Don't bother with 6NF.

You did an FA/VO code on KOMBI to get rid of the SOS error on your instrument cluster after removing $639.

Finally, I think $639 is in the North American market; in other markets you might be removing $633 instead.

[FaxData]

6FL retrofit

Weirdly, this one gave me the most headaches. The OEM 6FL has a cable running from the MULF2 in the trunk down the driver's side wiring loom to a powered USB hub under the carpet in front of the driver's seat, then another USB cable under the driver's seat to the center console (seriously, what?). A second cable off the hub could provide 6NF I believe. A USB cord plugged directly into the MULF2 would not charge a phone (no power, hence the powered hub).

The Combox already has two ports (black and blue, see above), and they are powered. I had read that you cannot just take a standard CIC USB cord and plug it into the combox however; you had to either insert a hub or you had to cut all the fins and retainer off your cord and insert it upside down (sigh). So I bought too many cords, jacks (and a hub) so I could experiment. My original plan was to keep the hub in the trunk.

Also, watching BMWFanatic's video above, I noticed he did not move pins from the MULF2 connector or plug it into the harness - so he did not re-route the AUX.* I thought perhaps that you could use coding to get the CIC to use its own AUX (which is already run in my car since I did not have 6FL). I even used a diff program to line-by-line compare an FSW-PSW file from the CIC with and without 6FL. Conclusion: You *cannot* get the CIC to use AUX from CIC while simultaneously using USB from the combox. So I had to run 2 lines. Which is tricky: no one sells a long aux cord!

In the end, you can do this for surprisingly cheap! Something like this can be had from many sellers for under $20. I think I bought this exact listing, and the USB cable had no fins on either connector! So you could cut off the retaining clip on one side and plug it in upside down without issue. The only problem: 1.5m cords, which means you're running it straight down the middle from the trunk to the center console.

I actually also bought this 3m cable; the blue end goes into the black port of the combox and the white end goes into the USB port. It was already the correct orientation so I did not have to cut anything and it was long enough that I could run it to the side (center console to rear, under rear seat to the seatbelt pillar, up to the wiring harness and into the trunk). I only had the 1.5m 3-conductor aux cord though, so that went right up the middle. I hope that it doesn't get destroyed over time with the folding seats pulling it back and forth.

At this point, I advanced my build date to #0311, added $6FL and $6NR to CAS/NFRM, and default coded MEDIA and CIC. Note that NCS Expert will let you add $6NR with #0910 build date, but ConnectedDrive will not show up as an option in the CIC, so be sure to advance the date.

*of course he did not re-route the aux, he had 6FL from the factory, his aux was already routed to the trunk. Wishful thinking on my part. I assume that since he did not move the MULF2 pins, his aux port does not work.

[FaxData]

Finally, I needed to set up my rear view camera! I actually had already installed a multimedia interface (MMI) system from modmynav 2 years ago for the CCC. I bought it because it was cheaper than the bimmertech kit, but modmynav just mailed me a bimmertech kit. Go figure.

So I ended up upgrading my MMI because I have a manual transmission without PDC. If you A. have an automatic transmission (with or without PDC) or if B. you have a manual transmission with PDC, you should consider going the $3AG emulator route instead! (Looks much more OEM.) Cars with manual w/o PDC can't use the $3AG emulator though. If you have auto trans and/or PDC, you *might* still want to go the MMI route if you want phone screen mirroring or emulated carplay; keep reading below.

I bought this MMI interface. (They run occasional sales, I got it for $180.) I'm using it just for rear-view camera, but if you want smartphone mirroring then you can add this. The same website has a version with an HDMI input as well; the smartphone mirroring device can use either RCA or HDMI. I went with the non-HDMI version specifically because the HDMI version is controlled with the CIC controller and I have a CCC controller; the RCA version includes an IR remote so the CIC controller isn't used. There are many interfaces available, I think there is even one that emulates Apple Carplay. (car solutions doesn't sell the carplay one, you will have to go to aliexpress)

Here is the BimmerTech video on installing the camera and an MMI. (Done by Bryan of Kies Motorsports!) As you can see, it's literally the same unit (QPI-BM09). The main difference is that bimmertech took the rear view power cable and pre-spliced it for you. Also, in an e92, I found it impossible to fish a wire from under the glovebox to behind the screen; maybe I couldn't find the right place to start. I found that once I pulled the headunit frame out, I could fish from behind the headunit up to the screen on the right, however.

I already had a camera, but if you need one, both Amazon and eBay have them for $15-30. Just search for "BMW e90 rear view camera handle" (you want the trunk handle version, it's much nicer... the license plate light version is cheaper but not appreciably so). See if you can find one with the micro-connector like in Bryan's video.

You can shove the box wherever it is convenient - I put it behind the AC panel as there is a perfect spot there right above the CIC. It's snug, and will not rattle.

The installation instructions on the car solutions website (storefront linked above) is actually pretty clear. There are 7 connections.

LVDS-in: The original CIC to CID cable goes from the CIC to this port.

LCD-out: The new LCD cable in the box goes from this port to the CID.

Power: The power cable has a 7 pin plug but only 4 wires coming out of it (12V+, ground, CAN high, CAN low, pin 5 blank, pin 6 blank, pin 7 blank). You do not need to tap any wires, it just plugs into your CID and your CID power cable plugs into it. If you have a manual without PDC like me, you will need to add a wire to pin 7 to activate the rear camera. See below.

Rear: You attach the rear camera power cable here. It comes with a red/black cable. If your camera had a long red/black cable, you would splice together here. If it only has a long video cable with red tails at both ends, you would attach red to red here for 12V+, and black would be spliced to ground (pin 2 of the power cable). Likewise, in the trunk you would have to splice the red tail to the red cable coming from the camera. The black cable from the camera would be spliced to a ground connection there (probably the right tail light harness either in the trunk lid or above the battery, depending on where you connect your camera).

AV In/Out: There is a whole harness of RCA cables here, but I only connected one - the video cable from the rear camera.

Mode cable: This connects to a switch. I connected it but don't have routine need for it. It hides behind the glovebox.

IR cable: This connects to the IR receiver for the remote. I connected it but only used it for initial configuration. It also hides behind the glovebox.

DIP switches: Set 1-4 as you like per the manual. 5, 6, and 8 should be off. 7 should be on. If you change the switches, you will need to disconnect power to reboot it so the new settings take effect.

Making the pin 7 rear camera activation wire for cars with manual transmission without PDC: You will need an automotive relay like this one. This is an inducible switch sends 12V+ to the reverse trigger wire when the triggering circuit (reverse light) is closed. Tap pin 30 to 12V+ (pin 1 of the power cable), pin 85 to ground (pin 2 of the power cable), and pin 87 to the reverse trigger wire (your new pin 7 of the power cable). Pin 86 goes to either 1. the trunk of the car and your passenger reverse light 12V+ (black and blue cable at the end of the connector) or 2. pin 47 of the X14261 connector of your FRM module (the other end of the tail light connector). Pin 87a isn't used. How this works - when your tail light comes on, pin 86 (tail light) is connected to pin 85 (ground). The relay then connects pin 30 and pin 87, supplying 12V+ to the trigger.

You'll notice the kit doesn't come with a wire for pin 7 though... I already had such a wire from my CCC days. But you can sacrifice a wire from the unused 10-pin android navigation box connector (unless of course you bought an android navigation box that connects to this via that wire). You can sacrifice one of the wires from your unused sat radio prep in the trunk since sat radio is now in the front. You can grab one from pretty much any BMW connector found in the junkyard. Or make one yourself!

Finally, when you power it up and go into the system menu, be sure to set REAR TYPE to LAMP if you're using pin 7 and a relay, or to CAN if you are using the signal coming from your PDC / auto trans.

And that's the end of my crazy build log!

[eastsidaz]

Best source of information out there for retrofit!

Props for getting all this info together and posting it up

[FaxData]

Originally Posted by GovernUrMental

Best source of information out there for retrofit!

Props for getting all this info together and posting it up

Thanks very much! I hope this doesn't steal too much business from the folks providing remote coding services here, but I figure many will look at this crazy post and just hire someone anyways. And for people like me who are hell-bent on doing it themselves, this should be helpful!

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by FaxData

Thanks very much! I hope this doesn't steal too much business from the folks providing remote coding services here, but I figure many will look at this crazy post and just hire someone anyways. And for people like me who are hell-bent on doing it themselves, this should be helpful!

I never bash the DIY community. I applaud you for taking so much time to write up such a great post.

[FaxData]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

I never bash the DIY community. I applaud you for taking so much time to write up such a great post.

I appreciate it! Honestly your prices are so good, there's not much reason to do this my way... After the costs of the units, wires, adapters, etc, it doesn't seem like you're charging enough to justify the coding and the months of support!

For me though, I truly wanted a project even moreso than the final result. Any excuse to break out my K+DCAN cable again and learn something new... I had no idea how deep the rabbit hole went with CIC patcher and FSTool2 though!

[6ixSpd]

Awesome contribution!

[FaxData]

Originally Posted by 6ixSpd

Awesome contribution!

Thanks!

[sparkyblue]

You are a true value to this community. I'm currently in the process of gathering parts for a CCC -> CIC conversion.

Thanks for creating this DIY & documenting the process!

[feuer]

Originally Posted by sparkyblue

You are a true value to this community. I'm currently in the process of gathering parts for a CCC -> CIC conversion.

Thanks for creating this DIY & documenting the process!

I have all of the parts :-)

[FaxData]

Originally Posted by sparkyblue

You are a true value to this community. I'm currently in the process of gathering parts for a CCC -> CIC conversion.

Thanks for creating this DIY & documenting the process!

That's great! I have to say, I'm enjoying the upgrade a lot more than I thought I would. It's a very dramatic change!

Let us know how it goes!

[sparkyblue]

Originally Posted by FaxData

That's great! I have to say, I'm enjoying the upgrade a lot more than I thought I would. It's a very dramatic change!

Let us know how it goes!

FaxData, with your DIY and the depth of knowledge you arranged in one spot. It gave me the confidence to finally pull the trigger.

My car is a 2007 335xi and starting off our cars are very similar.
2007 E90 with build date #0407 with options $609, $620, $639, $677, $249. The only difference is that mine came with $6FL.

With your guidance, I purchased the following from a 2013 328i build date #0613 (donor car VIN#E733630)
- CIC (fingers crossed for a C1A firmware)
- CID screen
- CIC controller
- CID power connector (61136954526)
- LVDS video cable (61119185171)
- USB port (84109237656)
- CIC->glovebox USB cable (61129196805)
- BN2000 combox
- 26 pin connector (61136913644)
- housing (61136913626)
+ center console trim for CIC controller (to complete it all!)

To connect the CID & combox I will be re-pinning the connectors.

I already have a coding cable and a working coding environment with all the necessary standard coding software thanks to this VMware VM: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1220039

I agree that the CIC patcher method is likely the best in 2019, as the CIC (C1A firmware) has been fully exploited. I'm a bit nervous about this part, but hope with your instructions it will go smoothly. Even being an IT professional, using this home-brew software has its quirks.

The main things I hope to get out of the CCC->CIC retrofit:
1) Bluetooth audio streaming via A2DP
2) Bluetooth calling
3) Enhanced bluetooth (will let go of SOS since its on 2G and not working anymore)
3) CIC updated with the latest maps (2019 or 2020)
4) BMW Apps
5) Retain $6FL to be able to use both AUX (independently) or USB (independently to iPhone OR USB flash drive loaded with MP3's) or AUX+USB (using Tune2Air now called Bovee WMA3000B, the car sees this effectively as a iPod Y-cable)

Few questions related to the above:
2) I have $639 thus the calling hardware is already installed. Which connection to which module will allow me to make bluetooth calls using the existing hardware?
3) How do you update to latest maps with a CIC activated via CIC patcher V2?
5) My car comes equipped with $6FL, what connections to modules do I have to make to ensure both USB & AUX operate independently and together, allowing full functionality with the 3 usage scenarios above?

I am so excited to get the parts and begin the retrofit! Many thanks!

[FaxData]

Originally Posted by sparkyblue

FaxData, with your DIY and the depth of knowledge you arranged in one spot. It gave me the confidence to finally pull the trigger.

That's great! I think you're really going to enjoy the unit, I'm loving mine. Beware, I was not the best driver for a while as I kept looking at the screen.

Originally Posted by sparkyblue

To connect the CID & combox I will be re-pinning the connectors.

Two things:
1. I didn't do the CIC controller, but my understanding is that it should be plug and play for your car. Some of the older cars (before #0307 I believe) require repinning for the power/canbus connector. I believe this is the part you would need (61132359994). (I think you will know if you need to repin based on whether your CCC controller rumbles or not. Older vibrating controllers had a different connector to accomodate the rumble signal.)
2. You already have $639 and $6FL, which means you have both a TCU and a MULF2. You will need a MOST terminator, part number 61136931507, to cap the unused fiber optic connection coming off the MULF2. (Unless you're going to disable the second MOST port at the junction box, but this is tricky and not recommended.)

Originally Posted by sparkyblue

5) Retain $6FL to be able to use both AUX (independently) or USB (independently to iPhone OR USB flash drive loaded with MP3's) or AUX+USB (using Tune2Air now called Bovee WMA3000B, the car sees this effectively as a iPod Y-cable)

I have no idea if iPod Y-cable or Tune2Air works with the combox. It's not needed though, the combox A2DP supercedes the Tune2Air. And the iPod Y-cable isn't used for anything else - you can plug a lightning cable directly into the USB port to play music if you want a wired connection.

Originally Posted by sparkyblue

Few questions related to the above:
2) I have $639 thus the calling hardware is already installed. Which connection to which module will allow me to make bluetooth calls using the existing hardware?
3) How do you update to latest maps with a CIC activated via CIC patcher V2?
5) My car comes equipped with $6FL, what connections to modules do I have to make to ensure both USB & AUX operate independently and together, allowing full functionality with the 3 usage scenarios above?

I am so excited to get the parts and begin the retrofit! Many thanks!

2. As long as you properly repin the combox and connect the bluetooth antenna, you will have bluetooth calling after default coding MEDIA and CIC. Change $639 to $644 before default coding to get enhanced bluetooth, and also default code KOMBI to remove the SOS error. The wires for the bluetooth microphone / speaker for phonecalls are moved from the TCU 54-pin connector to the combox 26 pin connector, and the bluetooth antenna (left-most coaxial Fakra on the TCU) goes through the left-most white coaxial Fakra connector on the combox.
3. Once you've pulled your 1b file and activated the maps with the lifetime code, updating maps is as simple as inserting the USB with the files. The patcher and certs fools the unit into thinking it came with the car.
5. Move the USB connection from the MULF2 to the left USB connector (2nd left-most Fakra plug, which is a black 4-pin connector), this will enable the armrest USB. The aux port is moved from the 54-pin MULF2 connector to the 26-pin Combox connector. Use the TCU MOST connection for the combox, and terminate the MULF2 connection with the MOST terminator.

[sparkyblue]

Two things:
1. I didn't do the CIC controller, but my understanding is that it should be plug and play for your car. Some of the older cars (before #0307 I believe) require repinning for the power/canbus connector. I believe this is the part you would need (61132359994). (I think you will know if you need to repin based on whether your CCC controller rumbles or not. Older vibrating controllers had a different connector to accomodate the rumble signal.)
2. You already have $639 and $6FL, which means you have both a TCU and a MULF2. You will need a MOST terminator, part number 61136931507, to cap the unused fiber optic connection coming off the MULF2. (Unless you're going to disable the second MOST port at the junction box, but this is tricky and not recommended.)

1) I'm pretty sure mine is a physical clicky CCC controller, I will visually inspect the connector and will report back.
2) Yes, I will take your advice and grab a MOST terminator from a junkyard car via the ICOM port by the drivers footwell.

I have no idea if iPod Y-cable or Tune2Air works with the combox. It's not needed though, the combox A2DP supercedes the Tune2Air. And the iPod Y-cable isn't used for anything else - you can plug a lightning cable directly into the USB port to play music if you want a wired connection.

On my 2011 E92 M3 with CIC & combox, the Tune2Air works perfectly. It just doesn't display album art, but all else (browsing playlists, steering wheel controls, etc) works perfect. The main reason I want to be able to utilize the Tune2Air is I hear random beeps/skips or disconnects over A2DP via the CIC<->iPhoneX. The Tune2Air seems to connect and work perfectly 100% of the time. Otherwise yes, I will most likely be utilizing the A2DP or the USB<->iPhone via center console USB port.

2. As long as you properly repin the combox and connect the bluetooth antenna, you will have bluetooth calling after default coding MEDIA and CIC. Change $639 to $644 before default coding to get enhanced bluetooth, and also default code KOMBI to remove the SOS error. The wires for the bluetooth microphone / speaker for phonecalls are moved from the TCU 54-pin connector to the combox 26 pin connector, and the bluetooth antenna (left-most coaxial Fakra on the TCU) goes through the left-most white coaxial Fakra connector on the combox.
3. Once you've pulled your 1b file and activated the maps with the lifetime code, updating maps is as simple as inserting the USB with the files. The patcher and certs fools the unit into thinking it came with the car.
5. Move the USB connection from the MULF2 to the left USB connector (2nd left-most Fakra plug, which is a black 4-pin connector), this will enable the armrest USB. The aux port is moved from the 54-pin MULF2 connector to the 26-pin Combox connector. Use the TCU MOST connection for the combox, and terminate the MULF2 connection with the MOST terminator.

2) I will be repinning the TCU 54-pin to the combox 26-pin, and will ensure the bluetooth antenna is plugged into the left-most white coax on combox. Thanks for clarifying this!
3) Amazing! I just recently saw a thread that the 2020 North America Premium maps are out!
5) I will ensure the USB is connected from MULF2->2nd left-most Fakra (black 4-pin) on combox & will cross reference the pins to move the aux from 54-pin MULF2 to 26-pin combox. I will use the TCU MOST and terminate the MULF2 via the junkyard ICOM loop.

--

Thanks for clarifying these points! I am so excited to get my parts and begin the retrofit!

[FaxData]

Sounds good! Keep us updated!

Also, thanks for the info on the Tune2Air, good to know the Y-cable method still works with a combox!

[eastsidaz]

Originally Posted by sparkyblue

Thanks for clarifying these points! I am so excited to get my parts and begin the retrofit!

Nice! It's quite a fun project to be honest. In the beginning it was pretty overwhelming, but FaxData's awesome info he put together here made it a breeze, even though i had a couple questions via PM (very helpful though) The Steps were laid out perfectly i just printed them off and never had the need to go back to the other guides.

Just Finished loading the maps on mine today. No combox yet though.

excuse the cracks on the cic screen, some ebay sellers however im getting a replacement.

[FaxData]

Looks good! It’s so satisfying to get to that point where your new maps are loading.

[sparkyblue]

Originally Posted by GovernUrMental

Nice! It's quite a fun project to be honest. In the beginning it was pretty overwhelming, but FaxData's awesome info he put together here made it a breeze, even though i had a couple questions via PM (very helpful though) The Steps were laid out perfectly i just printed them off and never had the need to go back to the other guides.

Just Finished loading the maps on mine today. No combox yet though.

excuse the cracks on the cic screen, some ebay sellers however im getting a replacement.

Looks like you aren't the only one unlucky with a bad eBay seller. Look at how my items arrived..