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Some wiring diagrams for the members
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05-02-2008, 10:18 PM | #1 |
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Some wiring diagrams for the members
Here are some diagrams and pictures that might help people in their future installs.
First I took a look at the wiring harness by the amp (std. US-spec "Hi-Fi" stereo, non-L7). Wow! What a tangle. IMG_0695.JPG So I pried them apart to figure it out. Wiring Harness-1 copy.jpg Then, to avoid confusion I made this wiring diagram on the computer. BMW Hi-Fi Wiring Diagram.jpg Then I decided to make one to help out the Logic 7 folks. Wiring Diagram-l L7.jpg If I got anything wrong, please let me know and I'll revise. I was working off some forum thread info for the L-7, since I don't have such a system. Cheers and good luck. |
05-02-2008, 10:33 PM | #3 |
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Nice work... thanks for sharing!
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05-02-2008, 10:45 PM | #4 |
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Drives: E60 M5, E71 X6M, E46 M3
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Thanks a million....please sticky!
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02-10-2009, 05:22 AM | #6 |
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I used this very post to tap into wires. Needs a sticky.
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02-10-2009, 06:19 AM | #7 |
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thank you
good stuff
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06-02-2009, 08:53 PM | #11 |
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Are these the same wires that come out of the headunit? Cause the wires are completely different coming out of my HIFI headunit. Anybody have the pinouts for the harness at the headunit?
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06-30-2009, 08:20 AM | #13 | |
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how to connect to the optical wire diagram?
Quote:
Thank you for the info but i want to connect an aftermarket amp to my 335i E93 Logic 7 HU but i have only one optical fiber opticcable running from the HU to the amp, Where do i connect my converter wires? |
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06-01-2010, 11:31 PM | #15 |
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Remote Wire
Thanks for the info, just wired up an amp to power a 2x10" cab. I have a 2010 E92 with Logic 7. I can confirm that the wire colors for the left/right subs are correct in this post.
I did not have any solid black wires to use as a ground. The only wires that weren't paired/wound together were the power (red with gray stripe) and ground (brown). I used the red with gray strip as the remote and it works fine. Turns on as soon as you unlock the car, and turns off a few minutes after the car is locked. |
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08-10-2010, 09:00 PM | #17 |
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Thanks a million for the schematic. Cleared up a lot of confusion for me. I have the base/standard audio for a 2011 M3 sedan that has 8 speakers (2 x front sail-mounted tweeters, 2 x front door-mounted mids, 2 x under-the-seat subwoofers, 2 x rear deck mids). I don't have the rear deck tweeters.
Checking in the trunk and unhooking the BMW OEM wiring harness, I could see that I have all the same (OUT to speakers from amplifier) wires as mentioned above (although I technically do not have the HiFi option but something similar below it). I have 2 major questions for all the experts: 1) I have several thin straight-pairs of wires such as... . Gray/Green (?) . Gray/White (?) . White/Black (?) . White/Green (?) . White/Blue (?) . White/Yellow (?) Are these from the Head Unit to the Amplifier (IN) wires? If so, what exactly are the function or routing origins of these specific wire pairs. And if these are indeed IN to the amplifier wires, then did I somehow not see or miss a fourth pair? 2) And if these mysterious wires are not the IN wires, then how come I can't find any lines from the head unit to the amp? In other words, I can't find the Y/R, Br/Or, Y/BL, Br/Or, Blue/R, Br/Or, Blue/BL, Br/Or wires depicted in the original schematic? Where might they be? Thanks in advance.
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08-10-2010, 10:15 PM | #18 |
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I would need to spend $35 and pull the wiring diagram from BMWTIS. Since they changed their SW, I can't get it to work for me at all.
But what I would do if the car were in my bay would be to tune to the white noise between stations, unplug the amp, and see if you still have voltage on those wires. If you do, before re-plugging, use the fader and balance, go full F Rt, and find the set with voltage. Using this method is the only 100% reliable way to find signal wires when we don't have the wiring diagram. I'm not surprised to find the signal wires to be different colors in a 2011. I am surprised to find the wires to be NOT twisted pair (if that is what you meant). |
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08-11-2010, 06:59 AM | #19 |
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Thanks, VPE, I believe you may be correct in surmising that the colors of the wires may have changed. I went back and noticed that I had missed a straight-pair in the earlier post:
. Gray/Green (?) has 66-16 stamped on it . Gray/White (?) . White/Black (?) hard to see but it's buried in there . White/Green (?) hard to see but it's buried in there . White/Blue (?) . White/Yellow (?) has 266-29 stamped on it . Black (?) . Gray/Purple (?) They definitely appear as a straight pair at the harness bundle. But they could very well be twisted together as a pair as they travel through the great black bundle. I took some photos to see if others may recognize them. I suppose I could take the subconnectors out of the main connector harness to see which pins they go into. If I'm brave enough... Assuming these straight wires are indeed the head unit to amp wires, they would each be full audio range, correct? To connect it to a JL Audio amp (haven't bought it yet, but am thinking of the XD600/5 once it becomes available), would it then have to be spliced onto one of those wire-to-RCA connectors? The JL Audio XB-CLRAIC2-SW I thought was to treat a speaker out line signal back to RCA and then into another amp which is a different situation altogether, correct?
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08-11-2010, 09:08 AM | #20 | |
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Go by pin, not by color: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...80&postcount=2
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08-11-2010, 08:04 PM | #21 |
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Thanks, Technic, I went ahead and disassembled the subconnectors from the main connector harness as you advised to examine the leads closely. Getting the subconnectors out took me a while since I originally thought I had to push in the locking tabs. But as you all may know, the tabs don't push in. Instead I gently 'pried' open the black harness with my hands so there was enough clearance room for each tab to slip under its slot, and then I used a screwdriver on the other end to nudge them out.
Using your pin layout as a reference and map, I was able to definitively trace each wire's destination (and hence, purpose). All the amp-to-speaker twisted-pair wires match previous posts [see member bluelake's posts and diagrams]. All the HU-to-amp straight wires correspond to the appropriate pin holes, but definitely feature NEW color and stripe patterns. For the 2011 M3 folks (and perhaps others) with the base/standard audio, the following are what I determined just by looking, and not by using any volt meter or audible testing: 8. Gray/White = Rear Right output from HU (+) 9. Gray/Yellow = Front Right output from HU (+), I missed this one earlier 10. Black = REMOTE IN to amplifier 16. Gray/Green = Rear Right output from HU (-), conveniently stamped '16' 17. Gray/Purple = Front Right output from HU (-) 29. White/Yellow = Rear Left output from HU (-), conveniently stamped '29' 30. White/Black = Front Left output from HU (-) 37. White/Blue = Rear Left output from HU (+) 38. White/Green = Front Left output from HU (+) P.S. Do you still have harnesses that you are selling? They are designed to receive the big black bundle but instead of plugging into the OEM amplifier, it separates out all the wires so that they can be connected to an aftermarket amplifier's RCA-type inputs, correct? Does your harness also involve the amp-to-speaker wires or are they just connected individually straight into the aftermarket amp? Thanks for all your input (pun intended).
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08-11-2010, 09:36 PM | #22 | |
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Quote:
The HiFi harness is a locking connector to the OEM harness that it is shown in your photos. It has 4 labeled RCA (female) outputs, a remote turn on triggered relay -so you can add as many amps as you want without loading the OEM circuit- and 16AWG woofer and 18AWG mids wires, labeled as well. |
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