[beems58]

Running a P240A code. Changed the DMTL pump and coded, CEL leaves and then comes back after 15 miles ish. Anyone know what else could be the problem? All wires look good.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by beems58

Running a P240A code. Changed the DMTL pump and coded, CEL leaves and then comes back after 15 miles ish. Anyone know what else could be the problem? All wires look good.

ScreenPrints of ISTA wiring diagrams showing the DMTL Power Supply and three Ground "Activation" wires from the DME, with Connector Locations, and Connector Views, are attached to NEXT Post.

Bentley's Definition of P240A Fault Code:
P240A | 2A18 | DMTL Pump Heater Circuit Open
ISTA Definition: DMTL, Heater Activation
Link to BMW Fault Code Lookup Fault Info Sheet:
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...EANAAzADAANAA=

There are actually THREE (3) Devices in the Pump, each of which is powered on your 2008 335i by fuse F17, which supplies power when KL87 (DME Main Relay) is Active. There are separate fault codes for each of those three devices:
1) Pump Motor
2) Pump Heater
3) Valve at Pump

So if P240A (Hex-code equivalent 2A18) is your ONLY DME Fault Code, the issue almost certainly in the "Ground Signal" wire (Black/Red at Pump), at X17140/2 (Socket #2 of Connector X17140 at the DMTL Pump). That wire has to run from the DME in the E-box under the hood, to the DMTL Pump at the other end of the car. The Pump, Heater & Valve ONLY operate after engine shutdown, to test for Tank Leaks. Multiple Threads have reported break in the wire near the pump, but it COULD be anywhere.

"Looking at" the wire is virtually impossible, since it is in a "harness". You need to disconnect the X60002 Connector at the DME, and the X17140 Connector at the Pump, and test for continuity between X17140/2 (where wire is Black/Red) and X60002/17 where the wire is White/Black. There are two "Intermediate Connectors", both in the E-box near the DME:
a) X6041/7, and
b) X60551/10.

If you need suggestions for HOW to test, don't hesitate to ask. A Multimeter and ~ 20' of 16 gauge or larger wire is needed to test. Simple $7 HFT or $10 Amazon Multimeter is fine.
George

[gbalthrop]

Attached are ISTA ScreenPrints as described in Prior Post, for 2008 335i DMTL System: Pump, Heater & Valve.
Also Location & Connector View for Connectors at either end and Intermediate Connectors in the E-box.
George

[beems58]

[/QUOTE]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Attached are ISTA ScreenPrints as described in Prior Post, for 2008 335i DMTL System: Pump, Heater & Valve.
Also Location & Connector View for Connectors at either end and Intermediate Connectors in the E-box.
George

Thank you, super helpful! Also did not realize you replied to my previous thread. Didn't realize my notifications were off.

I checked the wiring and it didn't seem like anything was broken or corroded. Though I did take it to BMW and they said the harness is corroded. So I'm just confused if I'm missing something. The code BMW gave me was the same P240A for the DMTL Leak. They changed the pump coded it and it didn't get rid of the SES or CEL light. They said they can change the harness etc but that costs an arm and a leg — plus they said that might not even fix my issue.

Long story short, am I supposed to check the fuses first, then move to the wiring? Or should I just assume my wiring is corroded or cut somewhere?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by beems58

... The code BMW gave me was the same P240A for the DMTL Leak. They changed the pump coded it and it didn't get rid of the SES or CEL light...

As stated in Post #2:
"There are actually THREE (3) Devices in the Pump, each of which is powered on your 2008 335i by fuse F17, which supplies power when KL87 (DME Main Relay) is Active. There are separate fault codes for each of those three devices: 1) Pump Motor, 2) Pump Heater, 3) Valve at Pump."

Actually there are 21 different Fault Codes for various issues with the DMTL System. ONLY a few of them indicate a "Leak". NEITHER of your reported codes (2A13 & 2A18) are related to any "Leak" in the system. I presume the attachment to your latest post is from the DEALER? If anyone at the Dealership used the word "Leak" related to either of those codes, he/she was in error.

If you simply assumed there was a "Leak" 'cuz the purpose of the DMTL system is to check for "Tank Leakage", that was an incorrect assumption. Each of those codes indicates a DIFFERENT issue with proper function of the System (1) Pump MOTOR Activation, & (2) Pump HEATER Activation.

Questions:
1) What Fault Codes are read in the DME NOW (since Dealer R&R of Pump)?
2) What Scan Tool (make/model) or Diagnostic Software (INPA/ISTA) is used to read codes?

If the ONLY DMTL-related Fault Code you have NOW is "P240A", which is same as 2A18 Hex-code, the good news is the Pump Motor Circuit is OK, and the Pump Valve Circuit is ALSO OK. That means the fuse supplying power (F17) is OK, and TWO of THREE Ground/Activation wires from the DME are OK.

The BAD NEWS is that the wire described in detail in my prior posts, from DMTL Connector X17140/2 to DME Connector X60002/17 "has issues", likely "Open Circuit", broken, or disconnected, to include at either of the two "Intermediate Connectors" in the E-box: X6041/7 or X60551/10.

So to answer your questions:
A) CONFIRM what DME Fault Codes are NOW read (answer 1 & 2 above);
B) Check F17 to make SURE it is intact, but it almost certainly IS for reasons stated;
C) Do NOT ASSume anything! TEST. As stated earlier, a $10 DMM/Multimeter and 20-foot length of 16 Gauge wire, and the Wiring/Connector info provided in Post #3 will allow YOU to TEST continuity in that wire.

Since most folks are at least SOMEWHAT capable of understanding mechanical systems they can SEE, but avoid trying to understand electrical systems, do NOT be afraid to ask questions about specific steps to TEST. We'll ALL learn something; but MOST of the Guys will NEVER admit it -- it's a "Guy Thing".
George

[beems58]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

As stated in Post #2:
"There are actually THREE (3) Devices in the Pump, each of which is powered on your 2008 335i by fuse F17, which supplies power when KL87 (DME Main Relay) is Active. There are separate fault codes for each of those three devices: 1) Pump Motor, 2) Pump Heater, 3) Valve at Pump."

Actually there are 21 different Fault Codes for various issues with the DMTL System. ONLY a few of them indicate a "Leak". NEITHER of your reported codes (2A13 & 2A18) are related to any "Leak" in the system. I presume the attachment to your latest post is from the DEALER? If anyone at the Dealership used the word "Leak" related to either of those codes, he/she was in error.

If you simply assumed there was a "Leak" 'cuz the purpose of the DMTL system is to check for "Tank Leakage", that was an incorrect assumption. Each of those codes indicates a DIFFERENT issue with proper function of the System (1) Pump MOTOR Activation, & (2) Pump HEATER Activation.

Questions:
1) What Fault Codes are read in the DME NOW (since Dealer R&R of Pump)?
2) What Scan Tool (make/model) or Diagnostic Software (INPA/ISTA) is used to read codes?

If the ONLY DMTL-related Fault Code you have NOW is "P240A", which is same as 2A18 Hex-code, the good news is the Pump Motor Circuit is OK, and the Pump Valve Circuit is ALSO OK. That means the fuse supplying power (F17) is OK, and TWO of THREE Ground/Activation wires from the DME are OK.

The BAD NEWS is that the wire described in detail in my prior posts, from DMTL Connector X17140/2 to DME Connector X60002/17 "has issues", likely "Open Circuit", broken, or disconnected, to include at either of the two "Intermediate Connectors" in the E-box: X6041/7 or X60551/10.

So to answer your questions:
A) CONFIRM what DME Fault Codes are NOW read (answer 1 & 2 above);
B) Check F17 to make SURE it is intact, but it almost certainly IS for reasons stated;
C) Do NOT ASSume anything! TEST. As stated earlier, a $10 DMM/Multimeter and 20-foot length of 16 Gauge wire, and the Wiring/Connector info provided in Post #3 will allow YOU to TEST continuity in that wire.

Since most folks are at least SOMEWHAT capable of understanding mechanical systems they can SEE, but avoid trying to understand electrical systems, do NOT be afraid to ask questions about specific steps to TEST. We'll ALL learn something; but MOST of the Guys will NEVER admit it -- it's a "Guy Thing".
George

Thank you!! I'll let you know once I run into a problem/ or extra questions! 🙂

[BimmerDan328]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

ScreenPrints of ISTA wiring diagrams showing the DMTL Power Supply and three Ground "Activation" wires from the DME, with Connector Locations, and Connector Views, are attached to NEXT Post.

Bentley's Definition of P240A Fault Code:
P240A | 2A18 | DMTL Pump Heater Circuit Open
ISTA Definition: DMTL, Heater Activation
Link to BMW Fault Code Lookup Fault Info Sheet:
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...EANAAzADAANAA=

There are actually THREE (3) Devices in the Pump, each of which is powered on your 2008 335i by fuse F17, which supplies power when KL87 (DME Main Relay) is Active. There are separate fault codes for each of those three devices:
1) Pump Motor
2) Pump Heater
3) Valve at Pump

So if P240A (Hex-code equivalent 2A18) is your ONLY DME Fault Code, the issue almost certainly in the "Ground Signal" wire (Black/Red at Pump), at X17140/2 (Socket #2 of Connector X17140 at the DMTL Pump). That wire has to run from the DME in the E-box under the hood, to the DMTL Pump at the other end of the car. The Pump, Heater & Valve ONLY operate after engine shutdown, to test for Tank Leaks. Multiple Threads have reported break in the wire near the pump, but it COULD be anywhere.

"Looking at" the wire is virtually impossible, since it is in a "harness". You need to disconnect the X60002 Connector at the DME, and the X17140 Connector at the Pump, and test for continuity between X17140/2 (where wire is Black/Red) and X60002/17 where the wire is White/Black. There are two "Intermediate Connectors", both in the E-box near the DME:
a) X6041/7, and
b) X60551/10.

If you need suggestions for HOW to test, don't hesitate to ask. A Multimeter and ~ 20' of 16 gauge or larger wire is needed to test. Simple $7 HFT or $10 Amazon Multimeter is fine.
George

Hey George
Hoping you can help me as I see you have access to ISTA and this thread is very relevant to my issue.
Can you post the wiring diagram and trouble shooting recommendations for chasing a short to fuse 17a?

Background. I have a 2011 328i convertible throwing codes 2A13 2A18 2B3D. Checked my pins at the dmtl connector and the power supply wire (red/ white) is showing continuity to ground ( disconnected from dmtl pump). It still gets +12v with engine running and the fuse has not blown. when I pull the fuse the wire is no longer shorted on the dmtl connector side so it must be towards the DME. Any help you can provide is appreciated.

If this post is out of place let me know where to post please. New here and just made an account for this. Thanks!