[JDM_240]

The misinformation here is crazy.

No there is no break-in SERVICE for your m240.
Yes there is a break-in period of 1200 miles.

M cars will have oil changed, dif fluid changed, and limiter removed. The 240 does not need that.

You can do an oil change at the 1.2k if you would like to pay for it and I even took a sample of oil at 2k and there was nothing to be concerned for.

But if you think its a good idea to give your car with 50 miles on it 5500 rpm in manual mode with some heavy engine braking, go ahead

[emcee1011]

Oil change at both 250 and 1k miles? Super overkill if you ask me. I'm sure you can do a standard change at 5k (or even 10k which is what I think BMW actually recommends) and your car will be absolutely fine.

If the owner's manual doesn't state it, I don't do it. That's my rule of thumb. BMW says to rely on the in-car oil life monitor and doesn't even mention service intervals in the manual to begin with.

[BeemerBaron]

All of this information is in the manual..... the rest is just internet opinion.

[Caerus]

This is how you break-in a performance car. Start watching at 2:50 until the end.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qgqmb15GV-I

[Evilmoretea]

I think I maybe have messed up.

I got a bit carried away, only 250 miles on it so far and I’ve been doing a bit of sport plus mode on country roads.

Kept the revs on or below 4000, did go over a couple of times by mistake. Also driving at quite high load and speed. 90mph. Always let the engine warm up though.

Going to back off a bit now until higher mileage but do you reckon that might be it ruined already?

I got engine oil to between 90-100 Celsius (194-200 Fahrenheit) with sporty driving and one time the front grille did open after a drive due to cooling needs.

Reckon I messed the break in up? Even if I cool it now at 250 miles in?

[ryo-]

I highly doubt going over 4k RPM a few times (not sustained) will negatively affect your engine during break in. tbh, don't worry about it. plus I don't think 90mph is even 3k RPM in 8th gear so you should be good. the manual just says not to go over 100 mph (I'm assuming due to new tires/brakes for safety reasons).

[Cwatt79]

I'm pretty new to BMW, but all three times I test drove one, the SA implored me to floor it from a stop and "hold it as a long as you're comfortable," and then to panic brake from about 60 mph. I am by no means saying this is fine and harmless on a car with single or double digit mileage, but if it was truly ruining engines I doubt they would be doing it. I hope so at least, considering I bought mine off the lot. I try not to think about how mine was treated before I bought it

[danallxt]

Originally Posted by Cwatt79

I'm pretty new to BMW, but all three times I test drove one, the SA implored me to floor it from a stop and "hold it as a long as you're comfortable," and then to panic brake from about 60 mph. I am by no means saying this is fine and harmless on a car with single or double digit mileage, but if it was truly ruining engines I doubt they would be doing it. I hope so at least, considering I bought mine off the lot. I try not to think about how mine was treated before I bought it

In general your SA (car salesperson) is usually the least reliable source for anything automobile related.

[Cwatt79]

danallxt I'm aware. I thought maybe BMW salespeople would be held to a higher standard, but I realized they were more of the same when mine told me I could get the Driving Assistance Professional Package on the 230i, the 2 series coupes are built in Germany, and the 228i was RWD.

[danallxt]

yup, its a mixed bag, some good, some not so much.

[KJ10]

Originally Posted by Cwatt79

I'm pretty new to BMW, but all three times I test drove one, the SA implored me to floor it from a stop and "hold it as a long as you're comfortable," and then to panic brake from about 60 mph. I am by no means saying this is fine and harmless on a car with single or double digit mileage, but if it was truly ruining engines I doubt they would be doing it. I hope so at least, considering I bought mine off the lot. I try not to think about how mine was treated before I bought it

Anyone who test drives a "sporty" car gives it the beans. If you think otherwise your head is under a rock. I'm not saying its right or wrong just the truth. After 2020 with supply chain issues you just see less cars on lots so it has become less of a thing I believe.

[Cwatt79]

Originally Posted by KJ10

Anyone who test drives a "sporty" car gives it the beans. If you think otherwise your head is under a rock. I'm not saying its right or wrong just the truth. After 2020 with supply chain issues you just see less cars on lots so it has become less of a thing I believe.

Haha I know, that's why I try not to think about it
I don't expect anyone else to test drive a car any differently than I do.

[BG42]

That's a lot of thought for just take it easy the first 1200 miles. When imo is longer than what the owners manual states maybe you are over thinking it. My c7 only required I be easy for 500 miles. Oil changes at your comfort level. I'll add this if you are serious about the subject just send off some oil after every change. https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

[Cerealkiller]

The manual says keep it below 100mph and 4500 rpm for the first 1200 miles. Is it better to take it up to 4000-4500 rpm every now and then as opposed to keeping it in the 1000-3000 range? It seems like you would want to gradually increase the load on the engine for a proper break in.

[OriginalFake]

Originally Posted by Cerealkiller

The manual says keep it below 100mph and 4500 rpm for the first 1200 miles. Is it better to take it up to 4000-4500 rpm every now and then as opposed to keeping it in the 1000-3000 range? It seems like you would want to gradually increase the load on the engine for a proper break in.

From what I understand, it's best to vary the RPMs over that range than to keep it running at a more constant RPM. That's why they tell you to avoid using cruise control during the break in period.

[d3sign3r]

An ICE is either on and cranking and combusting or it's off. The materials of the rings or rotating assembling don't magically strengthen by going slow or varying the RPMs. ICE does the same exact things at 6k RPM as at 1k. Maybe the cooling systems flow a little faster.

[Cerealkiller]

Originally Posted by d3sign3r

An ICE is either on and cranking and combusting or it's off. The materials of the rings or rotating assembling don't magically strengthen by going slow or varying the RPMs. ICE does the same exact things at 6k RPM as at 1k. Maybe the cooling systems flow a little faster.

A lot changes between 1k and 6k rpms. Theres additional boost and fuel from the turbocharger just to give one example. So I think the argument is that the components can be broken in not strengthened through a gradual increase in the load.

If an idling car is working the same as a moving car, there would be no need for the break in procedure using distance as a unit of measurement. We could just leave our cars idling for xx hours and call it a day.

[Saturns]

All below is suggestions. If one goes over the suggestions I doubt there will be issues.
I will be doing my oil change at 2000km and changing to Motul 8100 x-cess (street oil) 5w40 or Motul v300 (race oil) 5w40 for my spirited driving, rallies and occasional track day. As those activities generate a lot of heat and the viscosity and type of oil would help in those applications. Yes overkill...but that's what im doing. Change every 5000km (3000miles)

From the manual:

Break-in
General information
Moving parts need to begin working together
smoothly.
The following instructions will help you to achieve
a long vehicle life and good efficiency.
During break-in, do not use the Launch Control.

Engine, transmission, and axle
drive
Up to 1,200 miles/2,000 km
Do not exceed the maximum engine and road
speed:
For gasoline engine 4,500 rpm and
100 mph/160 km/h.
Avoid full throttle or kickdown under all circumstances.
From 1,200 miles/2,000 km
The engine and vehicle speed can gradually be
increased.
Tires
Tire traction is not optimal due to manufacturing
circumstances when tires are brand-new; they
achieve their full traction potential after a break-in
time.
Drive conservatively for the first
200 miles/300 km.
Brake system
Brake discs and brake pads only reach their full
effectiveness after approx. 300 miles/500 km.
Drive moderately during this break-in period.
Following part replacement
Observe the break-in procedures again, if components
mentioned above are replaced.

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by d3sign3r

An ICE is either on and cranking and combusting or it's off. The materials of the rings or rotating assembling don't magically strengthen by going slow or varying the RPMs. ICE does the same exact things at 6k RPM as at 1k. Maybe the cooling systems flow a little faster.

Absolutely not true. Well, coolant does flow a "little" faster.

New engines have consider friction. This is normal. But can be a problem if the engine is operated at too high of an RPM level or with too much load.

Break in gives time for the various sliding/rotating surfaces to adapt and develop into surfaces which can deliver wear free service from sub-zero cold starts to 160mph+ runs in triple digit temperatures.

[d3sign3r]

Originally Posted by RockCrusher

Absolutely not true. Well, coolant does flow a "little" faster.

New engines have consider friction. This is normal. But can be a problem if the engine is operated at too high of an RPM level or with too much load.

Break in gives time for the various sliding/rotating surfaces to adapt and develop into surfaces which can deliver wear free service from sub-zero cold starts to 160mph+ runs in triple digit temperatures.

I've consulted my personal assistant, ChatGPT.
Indeed there is a resurfacing process during an engine's break-in period. Friction is a fundamental principle in the operation of engines, and too much friction can damage the engine. Newer engines have tighter tolerances and leads to higher friction and increased wear during the break-in period.

I suppose it can be said that during the break-in period, the engine goes through more wear and tear than after the break-in period. Thus why it is important to keep RPMs low during the break-in. Maybe high RPMs during break-in is familiar to running an older engine at low RPM with insufficient oil amount in terms of the amount of engine wear occurs?